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WattsvilleBlues posted:I'll check out those reviews, cheers. Anyone here got a recommendation for a case with USB C and USB 3.x on the front? I like the idea of a more compact case without going smaller than ATX. I have that case and I’m very happy with it. I had to move the top fan to the front to free up room to plug in the P4/P8 power headers on my motherboard, but aside from that minor annoyance it has been great.
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Feb 1, 2021 00:47
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WattsvilleBlues posted:That case really is growing on me but at this stage I'm committed to the Be Quiet Pure Base 500DX. There should be a SATA power cable with two wires on it for power and a standard 2+1 RGB header if you have a motherboard or a controller. I plugged mine into a RGB header on my Asus motherboard. There’s a button on the case to cycle between preset colors and patterns, or you can hold the button for like, three seconds or so to switch to having it controlled by whatever you plugged it in to. Asus has their armor crate software or whatever silly name they call it which can control it and sync it with the motherboard lights and any compatible GPU. I assume other manufacturers have similar software to do the same thing.
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Feb 3, 2021 02:54
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WattsvilleBlues posted:So either the motherboard or the PSU will have the appropriate connections? Yeah, the case has a SATA power cable dangling that should get plugged in to a SATA power lead from your power supply, and glancing over your motherboard manual (I think I saw a post where you mention a MSI B550-A) should have a connector to control the lights. I think it is called the Rainbow connector or something on that motherboard. It's a fairly unique header, it is four pins and one of the inner pins is blocked off. It should only fit on one header on the motherboard and only one way so you can't mess it up unless you try really hard. I assume MSI has software to control it, every manufacturer these days should. I think it might be called Dragon Center or something. I'd suggest having your motherboard and case manuals handy on your phone or a tablet or something in case you need to look up what goes where or what the optimal slots to put your RAM in are. I find it more convenient to look up on a device, but the paper manuals should work fine too. But that looks like a reasonable list to me. My case and motherboard both came with a bunch of zip ties, and the case has nice Velcro ones to channel cables along the back so you should be set. Edit: It might be a good idea to have a FAT formatted USB drive with the latest BIOS for your motheboard handy, in case you have to do that headless BIOS flash to support your CPU. I did mine before building just so I knew I was on the latest even though my CPU was already supported. If nothing else it's a neat little exercise and only takes a few minutes. I think every board has a slightly different procedure to do that, but I think I saw it supported on that MSI board. Edit 2: Looking at that motherboard, you might have a tight squeeze getting the P8 power cable plugged in with the case fan that is in that area. I ended up taking the fan out and putting it on the front since I had issues with how tightly packed it got. I read somewhere two front fans was better for temperatures anyway so that's what I choose to believe. Valen fucked around with this message at 14:59 on Feb 4, 2021 |
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Feb 4, 2021 14:48
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WattsvilleBlues posted:Thank you all once again goons. I've already downloaded the latest BIOS from the MSI site but I'll load it on to USB. Does it need CPU and RAM installed? I think each motherboard is slightly different in its process. For Asus you name the firmware image a specific name - it included a small app to do that for you - and put it in the root of the USB drive. You plug the drive into a specific USB slot, plug in power to the board and push a Flash BIOS button on the back IO panel and watch a flashing light until it stops flashing. But your motherboard might have a slightly different process though it should be broadly similar. I'd check the manual since it should be documented there, but I didn't have a CPU or RAM installed when I did mine. I did it mostly for the novelty since back in the day BIOS flashing was a very different process and it gave me something to do while waiting on the last bits of my system to be delivered. And again, it is nice just knowing you are all up to date before starting. It probably isn't 100% necessary. All of the screws I dealt with could all use the same Philips screwdriver. I think size 0 or something? The NVMe shouldn't be a special size at any rate. You should be good, I have to imagine something in a set of 14 bits will fit. Good luck with the build. It had been a while for me and it was still a bit intimidating. You might not need to move that top fan, but my motherboard has a power plug in the same spot and I tried for a while to make it work before giving up and moving the fan. It's more of a "heads up, you might need to do this" then a requirement.
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Feb 4, 2021 16:50
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Fallom posted:I cut myself on my last build and I also was sober. If I did it drunk I’d probably be dead. Back in the good old days before cases had rolled edges, if you didn't lose a pint of your own blood in the process of building a PC, you didn't do it right. 
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Feb 5, 2021 19:28
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Blinkz0rz posted:Trying to pick from the following similar B550 boards for a moderately high-end gaming PC with a 5600x and 32GB of DDR4-3600 CL16 RAM. I have that Asus board. It's fine and I'm fairly happy with it, but as mentioned it does have a dodgy Ethernet PHY. It is working fine for me at the moment so fingers crossed it stays that way. If I had the choice to do over again, I would probably go with a board with a USB-C internal header so I could use all of the front panel ports on my case. That board has two USB 2 and one USB 3 (A) pin headers, but USB-C front panel connections use a different plug. I ended up buying $20 worth of adapters to put my C port on the A header and my A port on the USB 2 headers. Also the P4/P8 headers are in the top corner of the board near the IO shield, which is a bit of a stretch and in the way of my top case fan, which I had to move. Both are minor inconveniences, but there are other boards without those minor gripes for the same price. It's not a bad board, but there's also no real reason to pick it over others at similar price points.
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Feb 15, 2021 16:42
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Khanstant posted:NH-D15 SE-AM4. Just did it without that fan, we'll see how it goes I guess? I have the same heatsink and just moved that fan up a bit. It's not as effective but 95% of the fan is still covering the heatsink so it should still be working. When you flashed the BIOS was the CPU in the socket? If so, take it and the RAM out and try flashing it again. The HDMI port on your motherboard is just for one of the CPUs with built in graphics. You have a regular Ryzen CPU so it won't be active and you should be using your GPU HDMI ports.
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Feb 24, 2021 13:17
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