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spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



KoB posted:

Just not getting the Frames I'd like in games it feels like.

Whats your GPU?

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spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



totalnewbie posted:

Prices are jacked right now, though, and it's hard to find because a lot of places are out of stock. So I might have to just have to go with what I can find that's at a reasonable price. But thanks for the reality check and prompting me to look into it a little more. ... I should probably look at not-Corsair. /sigh

Yeah those corsairs are all going for 200-300+ on amazon and many ship after the new GPUs hit. The fact the 3080 recommends 750 watts made the bad PSU problem worse.

Since prices are hosed I searched higher then even platinum and found the EVGA 850 T2 Titanium for $280 last week on amazon. (They still have it for $280)

Its way too much to pay for a PSU, but I really wanted modular + great rating + in stock + arrives well before the 3080.

Me before the pandemic would be so confused.

spunkshui fucked around with this message at 08:07 on Sep 12, 2020

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



WampaLord posted:

So I decided to spring for this beast, and it's SO HUGE but also SO QUIET compared to the stock AMD cooler. I'm in love, my machine is now perfect.

My wife has a DH15 and her motherboard not only lets me control the CPU fan speed based on a temperature graph but it also lets you control how long it takes to actually react.

If you have something like “fan delay” I recommend increasing to something like 20 seconds for complete ultra silence outside of a sustained heavy load.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Mikey Purp posted:

Quick question based on the last page's discussion. I have 2 nvme slots on my motherboard, so does that mean that I can add a second ssd later on down the road and install games to that one without any hit to performance? I currently only have a 500GB SSD but if this means I can troll deals and expand later on without even having to move the old data over to the new bigger ssd, that's awesome.

In many ways I would expect you to have slightly better load times because that drive won’t be occupied doing operating system things.

Yeah good times.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Orvin posted:

My PC is getting really long in the tooth, and is starting to crash a little more often. So I figured it was time to build a new system and take advantage of things like SSDs that are supposed to make a huge difference in performance.

I figured I had a budget of roughly $1500 for the case and everything inside, but that is a bit flexible. I am hoping to have this PC last a good long while. Being able to play some AAA games now would be nice, as it is easier to get some time to myself on the PC as opposed to on the tv with a console.

I was going to start with an AMD list on PCPartPicker, and tweak it slightly for my tastes. Bigger SSD (probably want a 2GB to avoid shuffling games), more RAM (as it’s cheap), etc. It would appear that I would really want to wait for one of the new GForce 3070 cards. Since it sounds like those may be hard to find for awhile after release, is there any benefit to opening my budget up the extra $200ish and looking for a 3080 card? With the same processor, motherboard, And RAM, will I see any extra performance? My little bit of reading indicates that I would want a slightly higher rated power supply for the 3080 card, but that doesn’t look to be too expensive. Just want to make sure I am not just paying a $200 premium for a card sooner. If I get gains out of it, it can be worth it to me.

As you can tell, I haven’t been following PC components at all. I can wait a bit to build my new PC, but I want to have some ideas in place in case my current PC completely fails. Also, I tend to get a bit impatient once I have made a decision to spend money, but I also will not pay scalpers for stuff.

3070 versus 3080 depends a lot on your monitor and what you play.

Since I have a 2560 x 1440 display that runs at 144 Hz I’m going for the 3080.

If you have a lower resolution or lower refresh rate monitor then you might find that your monitor limits what your graphics card can do anyway and a 3070 is fine.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



sean10mm posted:

It's not.

It depends on your game and the setting you hope to run.

The main game my wife likes to play with me is borderlands 3 which is loving difficult to run.

https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.techspot.com/amp/review/1912-borderlands-3-benchmarks/

2080 Ti can’t even crack 100 FPS at 1440p extreme.

I don’t expect to 3080 to keep 144 Hz that’s why I have a G-sync display, but I would love extreme settings and fps over 100.

Then again if we kept only playing overwatch we probably will not be shopping for GPUs at all and holding onto the 1070s.

The Important thing to remember is that you buy the hardware for what you’re doing and what you plan to do in the immediate future.

I actually bought the 1070s after the 20 series came out because we used to be into world of warcraft mostly with 60hz displays.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



sean10mm posted:

The problem is you made a blanket statement of "Since I have a 2560 x 1440 display that runs at 144 Hz I’m going for the 3080" when you actually meant you were talking about one specific game that was prompting you to go with the 3080.

Like for most people I'm pretty sure the existence of one game that "only" gets 90 FPS average at 1440p isn't going to be interpreted as MY 1440p144 MONITOR IS RUINED FOREVER or something. Especially since hardly anybody has the 2080 Ti in the first place.

Yeah fine I agree with you. I should have mentioned the GPU choice is also heavily game dependent these days when some people only play Rocket League while others cry in that flight sim game.

I will still argue that if you have 2560x1440 and 144hz you have a much better chance at actually benefiting from the horsepower of a 3080 vs a 60fps display or a 1080p 144hz.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Kingnothing posted:

Also lookup what button on the keyboard is bios setup and just mash it and see if you get an image.

It’s possible your tv just isn’t initializing during post and it’s going past.

Gamers nexus used a neat trick in the "pc repair race" recently to prevent missing the chance to enter the bios. He unplugged the CPU fan connector which makes it refused to load an OS until you tell it the error is ok or plug the fan back in.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Kingnothing posted:

I’m having a fan problem.

Does removing one change anything? Maybe they are bumping together and while the rubber keeps them from vibrating your case they are able to hit each other?

I hum by having my lips together while vibrating vocal chords, its what gave me the idea haha.

Your fans might be lips.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Kingnothing posted:

I’ve got three 140mm there, so they’re all against each other. That could be it. I’ll have to check. I don’t really wanna give up one of the fans though cause this build is gonna run pretty hot.

You just need a tiny gap between them so they cant touch and then make sure the screws are tight so the top one doesn't slide down.

Removing one fan would hopefully just to be a problem checking step.

spunkshui fucked around with this message at 07:48 on Sep 17, 2020

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



OlMaster posted:

So I managed to snag a 3080 (MSI Ventus), should be arriving tomorrow. I'm using a Corsair CX650 650W 80+ Bronze PSU, realistically what are the chances of something going seriously wrong? If it just crashes I can pick up another PSU, but I don't want to risk frying the rest of my components over it. Should I just get a 750w to avoid the risk?

How old is it?

PSU is one of the higher PC failure rate components so if its ready 4-5 years old you can at least figure it doesn't have much left on its life anyway. Its also nice to have the old one lying around because its not always convenient to run to the store.

Typically what I would expect is that if the PSU cant handle it when you fire up a game it will shut off they system abruptly at some point.

If you are running a lower tier CPU like a i5 or R5 then you might not need to upgrade the PSU vs someone with a much bigger cpu like a 32 core monstrosity. The 750watt psu budget NVIDIA is giving us has to cover all CPUs.

If you like overlcocking your CPU then I would def upgrade the PSU.

OlMaster posted:

It's less than a year old so hopefully should be fine. Will certainly give it a cleaning though, then maybe look at replacing it in the longer term. Thanks for the advice!

I would try to keep it then yeah.

spunkshui fucked around with this message at 15:42 on Sep 17, 2020

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Fat_Cow posted:

Will I have any issue fitting a 3080, and a NH-D15 CPU Cooler in a Phantek p500a together?

Should fit.

That case can mount GPUs vertically which is what I look for to see if a case is extra wide for a tall CPU cooler.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

Everything is fine these days.

You should also go air-cooling (not sure why you want water exactly) since it is much cheaper and functionally just as effective unless you are going for hard core OCing, which you shouldn't anyway on AMD since the benefits are limited. The 212 is 35 bucks in the US so I'm guessing similar range in Europe.

Seconding this.

Water cooling only makes sense if you have a radiator that is larger then a typical good air cooler. Which means you will be paying over +100 which is crazy when you could just buy a better cpu.

The best part about air cooling is you can carry them forward for a long time while pumps kill AIOs.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Sexual Aluminum posted:

I'm looking to upgrade my PC to play Cyberpunk 2077 when it comes out. My current desktop is hella old, I built it around 7 years ago, but I have replaced things like the RAM, and SSD as time went by.

Here is what I currently have

https://imgur.com/a/laZV8R3

I think the CPU is probably too old, and the graphics card probably showing it's age. Is it worth upgrading my PC, or just buying a new one? I'm worried my old motherboard can't handle a newer graphics card or CPU

The motherboard is too old to support any new CPU worth buying and your ram is DDR3 so thats not able to move up either.

It’s definitely basically new computer time.

The graphics card is lower end and very old on top of that.

Edit: The only thing you would be able to reuse would be like the power supply (maybe) and like the case.

Hard drives too can be used again of course.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



sean10mm posted:

Saying the RTX 3070 won't be buyable until 2021 is overly pessimistic IMO. The top tier part (3080 in this case) almost always has more availability issues than the next step down.

It’s not like your average person was rocking an $700 graphics card a month ago. These products are outside of a lot of peoples price range.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



sean10mm posted:

CL18 should be CHEAPER than CL16. :confused:

If people are blindly following a recommendation on mass it could drive up the price. Honestly as long as your rams not like at 2100 speed on accident then its fine.

Meanwhile I got bored waiting for a ROG 3080 and decided working from home all day and getting into making videos for work means I get 32 gigs of ram that glows (note: I do not really need more then 16s of ram yet and definitely don't need ram that glows)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TC4TPCN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 $84.99
16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 3600 (PC4-28800) C18 AMD Optimized Memory (got 4 sticks total)
Timings: 18-22-22-42

For my intel 9600k @ 5.0ghz, then I just changed the timings to be the same as the CL18 intel XMP profile I found here: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Memory/Vengeance-PRO-RGB-Black/p/CMW16GX4M2C3600C18#tab-tech-specs
Timings: 18-19-19-39

https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-Veng...ics&sr=1-6&th=1 $114.99
CL18 non AMD ram is more expensive then the "AMD ram", only changed seemed to be tighter timings

It passed memtest 64 last night no problem.

So I looked up what their CL 16 ram runs at :v:

https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Memory/Vengeance-PRO-RGB-Black/p/CMW16GX4M2K3600C16#tab-tech-specs
$200 for 2x 8 gig sticks!

Currently running at those speeds and running memtest 64.

Ram is pretty fun, not like "core clock of my GPU" fun, but still fun.

spunkshui fucked around with this message at 17:33 on Sep 21, 2020

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



GWBBQ posted:

Everything about graphics cards infuriates me and I feel like a monkey trying to fly a spaceship when I look at model numbers and specs. I have this card because PC Part Picker told me it was a good price/performance ratio for me https://pcpartpicker.com/product/tgNgXL/xfx-radeon-rx-5700-xt-8-gb-triple-dissipation-video-card-rx-57xt83ld8

It has 3 DisplayPort ports and I'm currently running two 1080p60 monitors. Will I be able to run a 4k monitor from the third DP port at the same time? If I can do that, can I go a step further and also run an Oculus Rift from the HDMI port or will I need to shut off one of the other monitors?

Just driving displays at their native resolutions is child’s play for a modern graphics card and I would imagine it could probably drive all those display ports at 4k at once.

I don’t know anything about VR headsets.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Professor Funk posted:

Thanks thanks, this all makes total sense. Sounds like it's well worth the extra $100 or so to get the top of the line given the performance of the new cards. At the risk of sounding dumb: should I be concerned that I won't be able to get a 3070 at launch because of supply issues? Or should I be able to just hop on Amazon or NewEgg and order one launch day no problem? PC parts is a bit of a foreign world to me.

We dont really know but it will probably be hard to get one day 1.

You might want to consider a hold over gpu that you sell for a small loss after you manage to get a 3070.

The used market is going to get flooded and I bet a lot of the cards will be dirt cheap 1070s and 1080s.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



NuclearPotato posted:

Hello again thread. About 3 weeks ago I came in here looking for a new build with the 3070 coming up, and was promptly recommended this build. I was pretty happy with how it looked, and ordered the parts pretty quickly (minus the placeholder video card, of course). Since that point, I've received all of the parts and am just about ready to build (with my current PC's 1660 ti in as a stand in until I can actually get the 3070, in like 3 years or however long it takes), with one exception: the power supply. The Fractal Ion+ 760P has been on backorder this whole time, and I'm kinda thinking about just cancelling the order and getting a different power supply instead. Two choices have popped up in the last week that seem pretty appealing to me. The first one is this Super Flower, which is about the same wattage, but only 80+ Gold compared to the Ion+ and its 80+ Plat. The other option, seeing that the estimated wattage of the build is around 450W, would be to go a step down and pick up the 660 watt version of the Ion+, which still looks to be in stock. Does anything seem wrong with getting either of those? Are there any other options I should look for? Or should I just suck it up and wait for the 760P to come off of backorder?

3070 build at the absolute most should be more then fine with 650watt PSU so you are totally good with room to spare by getting that 660.

Nice find with the Plat rating and modular at that price.

The 650 number NVidia is recommending for that card is accounting for people with crappy PSUs strapped to 20-30 case fans.

spunkshui fucked around with this message at 04:10 on Sep 22, 2020

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



If you have an air cooler it’s worth looking into the settings of your motherboard for fan speeds.

I actually found my wife’s motherboard has a setting where you can tell the fan how much time you want the fan to take to change speeds.

She has a huge D15 so I told it to take 20 seconds to rev up and zero seconds to rev down.

Before the setting was turned on just opening chrome or doing anything would make the fans rev up and down because the CPU with spike 65 for half a second.

Now unless I’m running sustained cpu stress test it basically doesn’t change fan speed in any audible way.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Badger of Basra posted:

Hopefully the last new system question: everything gets very unstable (like, crashing 1-2 minutes after Windows loads) when I turn on my memory's XMP profile (or DOCP in this case).

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($294.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard ($164.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Trident Z Neo 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory ($114.99 @ Amazon)

This memory is on the QVL for my motherboard. From googling around I can't tell if the best step would be to raise the voltage from 1.35 to 1.36, enter all the settings manually, or something else. I ran the windows memory test and no errors there, and everything seems to run fine if I leave it at the default speed. Any suggestions?

Raising the voltage from 1.35 to 1.36 shouldn’t hurt the memory. I think it’s worth trying.

I don’t know what the windows memory test is but I’ve been using meme test 64 to check for ram stability since I’ve decided to start messing with it since I don’t have a new graphics card to play with, ASUS.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



You’re definitely want to be careful that your video card length in that case

Maximum Video Card Length
300 mm / 11.811"

I don’t know if that includes with the front fans on or removed.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Quote posted:

:eyepop: drat that's a rookie mistake. A shame I liked that case! Any recommendations? I like the white aesthetic a lot.

There are 3080s that fit you just have to be carful vs someone with a larger case that can buy any card.

They do make a bigger version:https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Cases/Crystal-Series-680X-RGB-High-Airflow-Tempered-Glass-ATX-Smart-Case/p/CC-9011169-WW

We went with this for a more reasonble size case that fits any 3080
https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categ...p/CC-9011189-WW

4000 is their newest cases so they have USB C
https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Cases/Mid-Tower-ATX-Cases/iCUE-4000X-RGB-Tempered-Glass-Mid-Tower-ATX-Case/p/CC-9011205-WW

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Klyith posted:

That 4000X has almost zero ventilation -- look at the tiny gap between the glass and case on the front panel. The 3 RGB fans on the front are completely useless. The 465X is mildly better, but still worse than cases that have been specifically engineered for a quiet closed front panel (like the bequiet 500 posted upthread) rather than glass and RGB.

In corsair's RGB line the 4000D Airflow would be better. But honestly IMO corsair just isn't doing a great job with anything other than RGB on their cases these days.

Do you specifically want a lot of RGB, or just a white case?

I have the 465X and with 6 fans the idea that it has airflow issues is completely absurd.

Currently its driving case RPMs off mobo temps and we can keep an i5 9600k @5ghz on air under 80C indefinitely in a 77F house. Fans range from 750 rpm at mobo 35C and 1100rpm at mobo 45C which is where its stops climbing the fan curve (LL 120 fans go up to 1500 rpm)

Fans that react to temperature is the best way to get silence.

Hot tip if you get cosair LL fans, get one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-...la-648319115441

Then you can drive all the fans RPMS off one mobo header. Just make sure to plug the header of the mobo into the correct plug on the fan hub the to read RPM correctly. There are other options online for fan hubs this is just the one we picked.

We might move her fan header from the mobo to her GPU because the ROG 3080 has the ability to control fans.

I cant claim to have worked with the 4000 series case personally and im sure its worse airflow then when you remove the glass and dust filter but if you just have case fans react to temps you can cool anything and have total silence while working.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Klyith posted:

Having 6 fans is an airflow issue, that's being solved with more fans.

PWM fans and good fan curves are the way to get quiet, but all cases can do that. A case with excellent ventilation (ie mesh front) can have fewer fans spinning slower, resulting in less noise.

Glass is 100% a valid choice, but it's also 100% about aesthetic. You have less ventilation, and you don't have the sound-damping materials that non-glass panels have on most every midrange case.

I would never leave an empty fan slot in a case.

700-800 rpms is dead silent glass or no glass.

Her ram, gpu and cpu are all overclocked and over volted.

It doesn’t have cooling issues. The glass is like four or five times farther off the front of the computer than Walmarts case.

Like I can shove my entire thumb in between the front of the computer and the glass and not be touching either.

The last case it was in was ugly bullshit with no filters and a ton of fans and the temps are the same under load.

Im actually really into cooling.

Like too much lol.

Edit: clarifying her case is not the 4000, but the 465x. Still corsair has been making reasonable glass cases lately. Not like that Walmart joke case.

spunkshui fucked around with this message at 19:32 on Sep 28, 2020

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Quote posted:

Ay caramba that's a beauty. I really like the monolithic columns on the front. Thanks everyone for recommendations.

Here's the new build:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600X 3.8 GHz 6-Core Processor ($209.09 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus PRIME B550M-A (WI-FI) Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($129.99 @ B&H)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($85.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Blue 2 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($208.53 @ Walmart)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce RTX 3080 10 GB XC3 ULTRA GAMING Video Card
Case: Corsair Crystal 280X RGB MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($159.99 @ Corsair)
Power Supply: Corsair RM (2019) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($119.97 @ Newegg)
Case Fan: Corsair LL120 63 CFM 120 mm Fans 3-Pack ($129.99 @ Corsair)
Monitor: Gigabyte G27Q 27.0" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor
Total: $1043.55

The “node core” on the case only controls the RGB of the fans but every single fan needs to have power.

You might need to get some splitters to run all of the fans off of your mobo or a PWM fan hub if you want to run all of them off one header.

I stick to two fans per header on the motherboard without a hub.

If you end up going with a case that isn’t corsair make sure you buy a three pack of fans that comes with the “node core” which can control six RGB corsair proprietary items like fans or corsair strips.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Quote posted:

poo poo I thought I removed those Corsair fans. Sorry for the confusion!

e: I did remove them but I pulled the BB code from an old browser tab :doh: That's why the loving case is wrong lol.

Here it is really:


CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600X 3.8 GHz 6-Core Processor ($209.09 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus PRIME B550M-A (WI-FI) Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($129.99 @ B&H)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($85.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Blue 2 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($208.53 @ Walmart)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce RTX 3080 10 GB XC3 ULTRA GAMING Video Card
Case: be quiet! Pure Base 500DX ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair RM (2019) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($119.97 @ Newegg)
Monitor: Gigabyte G27Q 27.0" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor
Total: $863.56

Gigabyte G27Q 27.0" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor
Frame Sync: FreeSync Premium

Is that going to work as well as a g sync display since you are going for a 3080?

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Quote posted:

Probably not AS WELL, no, but I'm really just shooting for locked 100+ FPS and I think the FreeSync can handle that just fine. Or am I off base?

e: to be clear I already own this monitor and I like it a lot.

Oh then never mind it will work fine, it might even be "g-sync compatible" . I was literally just asking questions because if you drop cash on a 3080 it makes sense to research a new display with all these fancy display techs.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



tuyop posted:

Glad we're on cooling chat. Just installed Cooler Master Hyper 212 on my Ryzen 3600 in a Fractal Define 7 C. Last night it was down in the 40sC at idle, 70ish during Prime95. Today I tried just monitoring it and it hung out at 65C all day, which is better than 70 but still. At lunch I turned all my fans on to max and it still hung out at 65C. Tried taking the side and front panels off to see if airflow was the problem, no change.

So what gives? I've also noticed that Ryzen Master reports that it's at like 4ghz/1.4ishv ALL THE TIME, even on balanced power mode (windows and Ryzen) and with the "eco" mode in Ryzen Master on.

I have a 140mm noctua and a 120mm PWM that came with the fan on front, and a 120mm PWM on the back. If anything it's now louder than before since I have the big honking cooler running pretty high on its curve.

Mounting pressure maybe?

You cpu might have been doing something like a windows update but not all day.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Idle should be like 40C

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Was XMP ever like not a guaranteed thing?

I feel like as long as I can remember we’re all enabling the extreme memory profile and expecting that to work.

Was there ever a time where XMP was considered an overclock.

Because if it never was considered an overclock it certainly certainly has a strange name.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Some Goon posted:

It's still considered an overclock. If you admit to having used it Intel has sometimes denied warranty claims since you overclocked. I think jdec has bumped their offical ddr4 speed up from 2133 but I'm not confident in my ability to read their releases in an official capacity.

The main points are the ram manufacturers warrant it'll hit the speeds on the box and that jdec speeds are very conservative. You have to opt in to XMP since it's technically an overclock from a chipset point of view, and defaulting to jdec speeds helps to recover from a failed overclock if you're loving around manually or something has gone horribly wrong, but by and large it's a pushbutton kinda thing from a consumer pov.

Interesting thanks.

I’ve been bored waiting for a strix 3080 and been messing around with memory overclocking.

It’s satisfying to know I didn’t have to pay for the CL 16 stuff even if I probably can’t really feel the difference.

Speaking of memory speeds everyone should check to make sure their memory is actually running at the speed they think it is.

I was surprised one day to realize that somehow my ram was running below what I actually paid for.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Alokgen posted:

I was using a long hold on the power button. I plugged my monitor into my video card.

How long can the PC be plugged in with only the CPU fan spinning? I was afraid to keep it going for longer than needed to see if things were happening.

The computer can be on for a while with the CPU fan spinning alone fine.

I think your post says that you tried to drive 4 fans off a single motherboard fan connector? That might’ve actually killed it. Usually they can only run two maybe three fans.

I would try running a single case fan off of a different case header on your motherboard. If I’m right and you’re motherboard has a bad fan header now you can get a 4 pin fan hub.

The hub will let you plug all of the fans into it and then you plug the hub into a single fan connector on your motherboard to control the speed of the fans. The hub gets power through a SATA cable.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



It would be a dead giveaway if you ran heaven and occt at the same time and it triggered the problem but I dont recommend screwing with a PSU unless you have a new one on hand.

Is it old? 750 should not be struggling unless maybe its like 5-10 years old

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Toxic Fart Syndrome posted:

Man. I hate the 2mm of clearance between the gigantic NH-U14S and the GPU, but I ran Prime95 and it just would not get above 65C and any time it got to 63 the fans would spool up (according to the monitor, I couldn't tell) and the temp would drop back to 58 for another few minutes...

I actually forgot what I was doing and left it running for about 30 minutes and it was still sitting at 58C with 100% CPU. :aaaaa:

Should I stress test longer to make sure everything is set?

Honestly most overclocks I have done that pass the 10 min mark can also pass the 30 min mark.

If things aren't happy they show up under 5 minutes typically.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



dms666 posted:

Yeah both are in and I unplugged and replugged them a few times.

e: One other thing I noticed is that the Mobo is supposed to have RGB lighting in the corner, and that isn't on either. Possibly dead board?

No. I had no idea that I had RGB lighting on my mobo for like a year until I went to the BIOS and turned aura on. I don’t know about your motherboard specifically but it could just be turned off.

How about Rams sticks, they always like having problems. Try taking those out and put them in really good.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Stan Taylor posted:

Usage: Lots of gaming, a little bit of hobbyist music production
Where would you guys start for something like this? Most of the general parts list I see factor gpu in heavily to budgeting concerns.

The GPU.

You want to spend like at least half on your gpu.

Kingnothing posted:

You’re going to struggle with a 1070 for 1440@144 without a good amount of setting compromise. Especially if you intend to go another year or two.

You didn’t talk about any of the other parts you currently have so I dunno what you’re working with and what’s worth keeping/upgrading.

This. Every $100 saved and put towards the GPU is a big difference. Maybe you don't need a new case? My case came out in 2014 and it will hold any 3090 gpu after moving the hard drive cage.

Most people with a 1070 are looking to upgrade pretty badly if they have that kind of monitor.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Kingnothing posted:

We still need to know everything else you have. And what you want.

Also to be clear, you’re not hitting 144 on max for basically anything with a 1070. You can probably barely scrape 144@1440p with everything dumped as low as possible on modern stuff, and you’ll barely make 60fps on medium settings with something like doom eternal at 1440p.

Overwatch can do it with most settings on extreme but yeah only esports titles.

Basically the reason keep asking is because it takes a while for the cpu/ram to be old enough the really be problem in games. Your GPU might already be the bottleneck, upgrading other parts will do nothing.

Unless your plan is to do a new gpu in like 3 months and you have $500 earmarked for a 3070 we don't know about.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Stan Taylor posted:

Not sure of the exact stuff in this pc but the cpu is an i5-4570 and I have 8 gigs of ram. OS is on a small ssd and most of my games are on hdds. may pop one of those in the new build for media storage.

I really am totally fine with the 1070, I promise you guys. I already played through Doom Eternal on this build. It looked great and was smooth as hell. I'm interested in replacing everything else but I really have no clue how to compare one mobo over another for example, so I just need like a little push in the right direction for a baseline. Every VR game i've played so far runs great, except for alyx and squadrons, both of which my cpu falls under min spec, but my gpu is above or is just straight up listed as the recommended one.

Right but what is your power supply, what is your case. Are we buying this too?

Would you like to save $200 on not rebuying them since PSUs suck rear end to find right now?

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spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Stan Taylor posted:

I truly don’t understand what the issue everyone seems to have with my posting about this. I would like to get some help building a computer for the reasons I listed previously, but I am not planning on buying a new gpu right now. I’m going to keep the old build and slot in my old gpu to keep around for general use for the gf to play Minecraft and the Sims. I will be bringing nothing else forward.

I really appreciate the responses but I do not get how I could be more clear with my goals here.

The questions are because we care.

When power supplies are like $150 instead of $75 like they were a year ago it helps a ton to know what you currently have.

You goal should also definitely be to avoid buying a case down the road because a metal box with fans is just a metal box with fans. Hell if you go cheap on a "new" case it wont have USBC anyway and might as well be from 2014.

Now that we know you want to keep the old build as hand me down. That's fine, but you should toss 8 more gigs of ram in it.

Whoever said get games on a SSDs is right, spend enough to put your top few games on a SSD for both computers, have the OS on another SSD or M.2 Drive.

I would but waiting for AMDs new CPUs if I was looking to buy a computer but didn't need it today.

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