tuyop posted:

Where can I get a wheelset with a dynamo hub in Canada? Are the options really only like $1000 or build-your-own?

Just looking for a replacement wheelset for my wife’s 700C (I think they’re 22mm wide, they’re Bontrager at-750s anyway, bike wheels are hard!) wheels so that she can have dyno lights this winter. Oh and she has rim breaks haha.

Feels Villeneuve posted:

rollers sound extremely good for you op. good ones are a few hundred bucks, practice in a doorframe until you get the hang of not falling on your rear end, done.

you can literally rust through a top tube this way on a steel frame. please clean your bike after trainer riding.

ExecuDork posted:

drat. I was really warming up to using it as a term for my "toe clips" which are not very clip-like (compare to, for example, an alligator clip holding a poorly-photocopied manifesto together).

Anybody got any other suggestions? I'd like a new word.

Pantsmaster Bill posted:

Am I going to notice much of a difference replacing the Tektro rim brakes on my winter bike for something different? I already use kool stop pads, but I had a couple of moments on a wet ride the other day that made me wonder whether the brakes themselves can be improved.

I have 10 speed tiagra on that bike if it matters.

E: don’t tell me to get disks

multijoe posted:

So, I replaced by old hybrid with a gravel bike recent, absolutely love it so far. Thinking ahead though, once I start using it for commuting again I would ideally like it to go a little faster than it currently caps out at with its 1x11 gear setup.

Would it be a) possible and b) beneficial to some point to set up a 2x front gearset for better road speeds and, if so, what types of things do I need to be aware of when arranging the upgrade? (i.e. cost, complexity, parts compatibility, and so on)

learnincurve posted:

Have you ever had one of those days where you just stand with your hands on your hips looking at something someone else has done to a second hand bike just befoggled going “whu wha fuuuuuu whu?”

The seat post was 26 cm and was held in by 4cm, what is this a seat post for ants or were you actually trying to murder your wife sir?

learnincurve posted:

I ripped it out the bike in case anyone grabbed it from the shed by accident, and it was in exactly this much under “insertion minimum”


This is not even the worst thing he did to this bike, the worst thing was either putting the fork on backwards then rewiring the cables around it, or not tightening a single bolt.


Edit: this is a 16” women’s MTB frame btw.

Edit: ohhh I see, Google says the saddle is not the one that would have come with the bike, he’s switched the seat post plus the saddle from a different much smaller bike.

Objurium posted:

Apologies if this is a dumb question.

It's getting to be about time to slap some new brake pads on my bike, and I don't seem to be able to track down OEM replacements. I've got Promax 330R disc brakes on my Salsa, and the manufacturer's SKU for replacements isn't in stock anywhere that I can see after some google digging.

There's some kind of sketch looking ones on Amazon that claim to be compatible, but I'm not sure how into random dubious origin products for something as important as braking, and I'm not entirely sure they'd be 100% drop ins to begin with.

Is there an obvious solution or retailer I'm overlooking here? Promax's product sku is PXBP14PD71SSL if it helps.

Clark Nova posted:

isn't this exactly what those plastic breakaway clamps for fender stays are designed to prevent?

e: I guess if a stick catches the stay it wouldn't help all that much

CopperHound posted:

You must be the princess and the pea of bicycles.

I would argue that most people can't feel the difference riding a hub dynamo (other than just extra weight on the bike). Still would be dumb to put on and actual racing bike of course.

Duck and Cover posted:

Well maybe people who aren't "just tooting around town or short casual rides" should pony up more money and get a bigger battery (and/or a spare) and/or lighter bicycle and/or ease up on the assist/lose weight? I think people tend to have unrealistic expectations/demands and aren't willing to compromise or accept reality.

Duck and Cover posted:

Hmm 8/10 psi I think maybe I should pump my tires. Followed by me losing both the valve caps to a gravel driveway.

Slavvy posted:

Now seems like a good time to ask: what is up with those stupid skinny not-schrader valves that have the little thing you turn manually to unseat them?

Cause they seem to be utterly worthless at holding the air on the inside and I don't know why you would put them on a mountain bike, I've modified one wheel to take a sane valve but still need to do the other.

jooky posted:

I recently picked up a Salsa Warbird Apex 1 and was looking into upgrading to a power meter, but I'm having a tough time tracking down the actual bottom bracket used on the bike. Per the spec sheets it's a BB86 PressFit, but can't find any specifics beyond that. Trying to figure out if I could use the Rival AXS cranks with the current bottom bracket, but having trouble sussing that out. Assuming I'd need to swap out the BB, but does anyone have an idea?

Trying to find the path of least resistance here while not breaking the bank, so definitely open to other suggestions.

Bilirubin posted:

what is this witchcraft

BraveUlysses posted:

I noticed a slight clicking sensation on my bike yesterday, it kept happening at the same spot in the pedal stroke but I think it felt more pronounced in one or two gears but not necessarily all of them...any suggestions what to look at first?

kimbo305 posted:

Incidentally, the bearings on these wheels have very low drag. Guessing the spec doesn't need to hold up to as much weight:
https://i.imgur.com/LN2en1b.mp4
From a hard hand spin, it takes almost 2min to come to a stop.

VideoGameVet posted:

You have to know some context here.

There have been some misguided projects in San Diego county, with the one in Cardiff By The Sea being the worst..

In that case a wide bike lane was replaced by a bollard separated cycle track with concrete blocks that have resulted in numerous serious injuries in a section of road that had less than 1/20th the incidents before.

Politicians bought into the premise that feeling safe was more important than actual safety.

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1X75Z_txehqEU5lnF1qnd6WcJUmweKlOsgIZg-Rc6AyU/edit

Cyclists are now avoiding the route or just taking the right car lane, which was previously unnecessary. It also hurt the visual aesthetic of this coastal route.

In Leucadia a bollard separated lane placed cyclists to the right of a lane where vehicles make right turns,. Result, a fatality on a road that didn’t have any before

TobinHatesYou posted:

Companies like Trek/Bontrager have a 30-day satisfaction guarantee in most regions.

Some local bike shops will have test saddles for specific brands. I know Fizik and Selle SMP's distributors will send any of their dealers test saddles.

TobinHatesYou posted:

truavatar posted:

I should mention that I was recommended the Surly Cross-Check a few years ago when I started looking into this, but never pulled the trigger. It's a little on the pricey side, but I don't really know anything else about it.

truavatar posted:

Is it reasonable to expect a decent intro road bike for closer to $500-700, if I don't want to drop what is likely $1200 for a fully set up Cross-Check? I'm also open to used, I suppose.

Salt Fish posted:

Never heard of Bob Jackson before but check this out:

learnincurve posted:

It’s a thing that drives me nuts it’s the cheapest £9 Amazon lights set to blink which are without fail directly aimed at other oncoming cyclists eyes instead of the ground. On the road yeh sure be a beacon of blinking and fireworks if it keeps you safe but these guys don’t need to blind other cyclists on car free routes

tarlibone posted:

Oh, I'm mostly kidding. If I went through the ratios in order, it would be more of an experiment than anything else. Just for laughs.

I just took the Escape out for a 5-mile grocery run. The Upper Hometown terrain is going to be a good tutorial for learning how to best deal with 21 speeds, with all the quick hills interrupted by frequent stop signs that can't be ignored. I'm already finding out how nice it is not always having to go up and down one speed at a time when going from decent to ascent.

I wonder if there are quick-disconnect trunk rack connectors. I have a pannier I like using on errand runs, but the rack is on my old bike, and I didn't feel like moving it over for this run. If be nice to be able to remove it quickly if I want to ride without it. I went with a backpack this time.

Levitate posted:

I had the "startled old person" this morning

Heading onto a wide fire road I called out "bike coming up behind you" and one walker started moving over and the other, an old guy, looked back and jumped like I had snuck up behind him and was inches from his heals (i was like 20 feet back moving slowly)

I suppose with older folks I need to be louder in case they're hard of hearing

Pittsburgh Fentanyl Cloud posted:

Was washing my bike and found this pitting/gouging on the chain stay (aluminum)


Is this bad enough that I shouldn’t ride the bike?

Raenir Salazar posted:

Seems like since I live up on top a mountain I kinda want the 34T? I'm told though I can go lower on the small number, I'm told 11 is really nice/the best?

bicievino posted:

I've got freewheels in my basement down to 12t at least, and Google suggests there are a number of 7spd freewheels still being made with an 11t.

Raenir Salazar posted:

Quick repost but does anyone happen to know if a "E-Bike" freewheel will work on non-e-bikes?

mexecan posted:

Thoughts on gravel wheelsets? Two options I’m contemplating right now:

1. We Are One carbon Revive rims + Industry 9 1/1 hubs + Sapim Race spokes - $1400 CAD

2. Hunt Gravel Race Disc $900 CAD

The costs for the We Are Ones will be about $300 more when you add shipping and duty. There’s also a wait until November.

We Are Ones are carbon and have nicer hubs. I’m also local to BC so would find it easier to deal with then if/when I have warranty issues.

Anything I’m missing here? Other options?