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Very interesting thread. Greetings from the Vaasa region. EDIT: Took a closer look and that old timey stove next to the electric, is it a wood fired one? Never seen them looking like that. It would be cool if you kept a woodburning stove, or if not, I think they fetch money. Seems to me if you are on a budget, a lot of that crap people might pay for. Does the house have any pönttöuunis? They are great and can be taken down and rebuilt without much trouble. The outhouse looks great for turning into a shop IMO, I'd love to has big an outhouse like that. All that crap in there might have buyers if you are up to dealing with that. Are you going for a "conservation" type of renovation to keep as much of the old as possible, or is this tear everything out and replace with new modern technology kind of repair? His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 09:36 on Aug 25, 2020 |
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Aug 25, 2020 09:27
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| # ¿ Apr 26, 2024 20:28 |
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Cracks happen in foundations, it doesn't look too bad to me considering the age.
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Sep 2, 2020 17:08
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I don't think it's entirely legal to burn all that stuff, some of it yes but I don't think it's kosher to burn s mattress.
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Nov 21, 2020 14:29
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Yeah those jötuls aren't very efficient in the end, even though they put out a lot of heat. If I wanted to use firewood for heating I'd consider a masonry heater.
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Jan 14, 2021 05:48
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If you got a history as a computer toucher (like me) and doing heavy labour, it's liable to hurt a lot and it's easy to do things wrong. This is why some of the farm jobs literally cannot be done by local untrained labour sources (you often hear people say to hire teenagers instead) and they fly in people from eastern europe, in addition to being cheaper, they are used to heavy labour and do it professionally. It's really not fair to call it unskilled labour, takes years of training. Supposed to get near 30C today where I am, hope you like the AC. I don't own one.
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Jul 3, 2021 06:55
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gently caress yes a pönttuuni. One of the best types of heaters in the world IMO. Agree with your assesment, remove the electric crap and fill up the holes with mortar as best you can. Just use mortar of the right kind (no cement, use clay based mortar). You can also apply it on the inside walls of the fireplace and fill up cracks and the like. The adjustable flue in my experience is on the wall, often above the heater and part of the chimney. I hope they didn't just wall it over. Also make sure it's swept.
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Dec 3, 2021 14:35
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I'm having a hard time telling, what's the last photo, is it the bottom, under the fireplace?
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Dec 3, 2021 18:11
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Ok very clean looking, if it's the fireplace looking up then you can't see the chimney connection. Up there the flue gasses make a U-turn and go back down. If the chimney connection is at the bottom then the flue gasses exit there. If it's at the top there's another channel, usually at the back, that the gasses go up that and exit there. So you would have difficulties trying to see the exit up there.
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Dec 4, 2021 15:46
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I'm on the phone so writing is a pita. But it's normal design for a pönttöuuni or masonry heater with contra flow. So you will not be able to see the chimney exit from there but it doesn't mean it's blocked. Discovering where it's blocked might be difficult, gotta look for where the flue regulator might have been. If it's On the wall they might just have cut off the control with it shut and filled the hole. If the regulator is on the heater then you should be able to find a hole or a patch or something. A lot of ways to block the chimney i guess.
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Dec 4, 2021 16:26
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There ought to be hatches for sweeping that should give chimney access. Getting a bit drunk ATM, Christmas party
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Dec 4, 2021 18:39
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IMO most pönttöuunis don't have a built in flue of any kind, it's usually on the chimney itself, sometimes it is not even in the same room. The Bailey's is too sweet.
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Dec 4, 2021 19:36
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-18 here today, sure is nice to be able to have a fire going. Does your house have a sauna heater? My parents have a harvia from 1993 and it puts out some hella heat, they can get the whole house warm by firing it and leaving the doors open. They still use it despite also having a modern contura in the living room. Considering replacing my own (a lot more expensive IKI Mini kiuas) with a Harvia M3 heater because by comparison the IKI sucks rear end in actually heating the room. I looked at your photos again for signs of a flue regulator on the heater itself but I cannot see one. I would probably look on the wall above the heater for signs of a patch, or look in the rooms on the other side of the heater. That's how it is in my parents summer cottage, the flue control is in another room. I would definitely expect there to be a flue control on the chimney wall somewhere or you will be loosing a lot of heat. It's more likely to be there IMO. They do use rockwool or similar wool (careful with it, might be asbestos, even if it's not, none of them are good for you) in these designs from time to time. Though if they just stuffed it there to block something up it's probably just regular rockwool or fibreglass. Still I'd be careful with it. It still seems a complicated way to block it to me, if I did it, I would just shut the flue and leave it shut, if I was chanelling my inner PO I would cut off the handle and patch it over so it wouldn't be seen.
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Dec 5, 2021 08:32
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organburner posted:Test fire #2 went better than the first one, the way it works is, near as I can figure, the smoke goes up in the heater, then there are channels that go back down to the bottom of the heater where there is a channel to the chimney. That's exactly how these things work indeed. Most of them has the smoke do a 180 and it exits the heater at the bottom. Others are designed so the channel on the back is isolated and leads to the chimney. Reason for the smoke leaving o nthe bottom is because the whole heater moves as it expands and contracts with the heat of firing. That puts continued stress on the chimney connection, the chimney at the base allows it to be freestanding. It is a bit more efficient though since it keeps the smoke in the heater for longer. Come summer you might want to re-mortar the inside of the fireplace, basically cover the seams with special mortar, helps the heaters efficiency. You can probably get a fire grate (arina but you probably know that) at K-rauta or similar, or even your local small village shop might have them.
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Dec 6, 2021 11:35
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I would wait with the mortar (clay mortar, never cement) until summer because you must let it dry for a week or longer afterwards. And then only tiny fires to drive out the last moisture. So it's a job best done in summer. In modern pönttöuunis the actual firebox is made with high temp firebricks and does not need the clay lining.
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Dec 10, 2021 12:40
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Yeah if I was gonna do it I'd do it now when the weather is gonna be warmer
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Dec 10, 2021 21:26
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I've been looking at your heater and I've been wondering, did it have a grate when it was used as a wood fired heater? I am wondering because a lot of these old heaters where built without grates and just had a solid floor that the fire was built on. You should be able to check this, the only opening to the compartment that sits under the firebox should be the front of the heater to let air in through the grate. If there are openings on the side and the back, then you got a solid base heater and you don't need a grate, you need fire bricks and mortar. Here are some scematics that might give you some insight to how the heater is built, first one is a solid base, 2nd with a grate.   Check out cross section A in both blue prints to see the difference. This works even if the heater has the chimney exit on top or at it's base.
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Dec 16, 2021 13:26
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| # ¿ Apr 26, 2024 20:28 |
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Ah I was gonna suggest something like that, an andiron or a fire basket.
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Dec 16, 2021 17:56
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