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nwin posted:And that’s why I asked! You got the idea. You unscrew one of the hinges and cut a piece of paperboard like from a To bring the top edge of the door down, shim out the top hinge. The bring out the bottom, shim the bottom. This can also be used to lower or raise the latch to the strike plate, respectively. If you get crazy with the shims and need like more than 8 at one hinge, you may want to add some shims to the middle hinge to keep it from binding and being squeaky. You can also add shims to all hinges if you just need to move the entire door over a little bit in its frame. You might want to throw any extra shims into a junk drawer and save them. You may need to adjust this in a few months as your home expands and contracts with the seasons. SouthShoreSamurai posted:Anyone have any idea what's going on with this doorknob? It's brand new, so it's not malfunctioning, but I've never seen a knob act this way. Is it a setting? Is it the kind of knob and I need to replace it? What is the purpose of a knob that does this? I've seen that happen. The knob is in a bind with the latch. It could be anything from a bad latch to a bad knob, to you just tightened the screws for the knob too drat much.
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Oct 29, 2020 22:51
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kid sinister posted:You got the idea. You unscrew one of the hinges and cut a piece of paperboard like from a I don’t think I said it correctly. The part of the door I highlighted is rubbing. The top doesn’t seem to be an issue. 
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Oct 29, 2020 23:27
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Shim the bottom hinge.
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Oct 29, 2020 23:36
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:Anyone have any idea what's going on with this doorknob? It's brand new, so it's not malfunctioning, but I've never seen a knob act this way. Is it a setting? Is it the kind of knob and I need to replace it? What is the purpose of a knob that does this? I have a couple old ones that do this. I backed off the anchor screws a little. If you tighten them up good, they sometimes cause it to bind like that. It may be that the door is a little thinner than the knobset is designed for and it's meshing. e: check the plate on the latch. It looks like it may be scraping against the latch mechanism. It would explain why you can pull it back but the spring can't push it out again. Try removing that plate & see if it works. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 01:29 on Oct 30, 2020 |
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Oct 30, 2020 01:26
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Motronic posted:Shim the bottom hinge.
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Oct 30, 2020 02:41
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this is very dumb but what is the difference 24 5/16" and 26 3/4" distances in this picture, the lines make it look like they should be the same
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Oct 30, 2020 04:02
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I think the shorter distance is measuring from the backsplash to the end of the stovetop, while the longer one is from the back wall to the front of the oven (including however wide the door is). But yeah, that diagram isn't very easy to read.
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Oct 30, 2020 04:11
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actionjackson posted:this is very dumb but what is the difference 24 5/16" and 26 3/4" distances in this picture, the lines make it look like they should be the same Looks like 24" 5/16 is to the edge of the cooktop, 26 3/4 is total required floorspace, the difference being the door. I think.
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Oct 30, 2020 04:11
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actionjackson posted:this is very dumb but what is the difference 24 5/16" and 26 3/4" distances in this picture, the lines make it look like they should be the same The thickness of the oven door & drawer front. I wanna know WTF the 22-3/8" is measuring. (edit) ahh- door reach when open.
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Oct 30, 2020 04:11
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thank you. That's a bosch which is nice because it has that recessed area so the cord doesn't take up space. But it's quite expensive. I'm trying to find the ones that will stick out the least, but it seems like ~26 something is pretty standard depth to the front of the oven door. It's nothing something that has any sort of filter on websites. It doesn't seem like other brands have that recess thing which is really nice to help it get right up against the wall. There's also the "slide-in" vs. "freestanding" where the slide-in doesn't have finished sides, but there doesn't seem to be any other difference. It seems like either can go into a slide-in space.
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Oct 30, 2020 04:23
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Slide-ins typically sit on staging. There are purpose-built cabinets for slide-ins.
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Oct 30, 2020 04:25
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Elviscat posted:Looks like 24" 5/16 is to the edge of the cooktop, 26 3/4 is total required floorspace, the difference being the door. The difference is the sloped control panel the top of which is shy of the absolute front of the range.
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Oct 30, 2020 04:25
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Theoretically, slide-ins have a higher end connotation to them. The real difference is where you prefer the control knobs, on the front or the back.
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Oct 30, 2020 04:27
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regulargonzalez posted:Theoretically, slide-ins have a higher end connotation to them. The real difference is where you prefer the control knobs, on the front or the back. What does that have to do with a slide in? All control knob positions are available in basically every style, other than rear control knobs - the objectively worst - being limited to cheap ranges.
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Oct 30, 2020 04:32
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Damnit, now you got me looking at Bosch appliances. Ranges and ovens of all sorts and so on. The dishwasher was a gateway drug.
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Oct 30, 2020 04:40
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Bad Munki posted:Damnit, now you got me looking at Bosch appliances. Ranges and ovens of all sorts and so on. The dishwasher was a gateway drug. I have a Bosch dishwasher because they are well known for being the best in that category, but for other appliances they are definitely not. They are probably my favorite appearance wise though. One really nice thing their ranges do have, besides that recessed space that allows you to have the oven right up against the wall without cords getting in the way, and also an overlay on the stovetop so it covers the little gaps between the range and the countertops. I don't have any "staging" - my oven just sits on the floor. But it's a standard 30" oven space, and looking at the dimensions of the slide-in ovens it should fit just fine. definitely prefer the controls on the front, and once my existing white wall panel is removed, will either paint or tile the gap in between the range and the microwave. trigger warning - electric range https://www.homedepot.com/p/Samsung...roduct-overview actionjackson fucked around with this message at 05:06 on Oct 30, 2020 |
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Oct 30, 2020 05:01
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Remember to always firmly tile your range to the wall when you replace it. 
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Oct 30, 2020 05:21
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Looking at the pictures, it looks like there is some sort of recessed area on the rear bottom (lol) part, including where the 240V wall connection is. I suppose this is the only way you could plug it in while being able to have it all the way up to the wall (i.e. the plug doesn't stick between the back of the range and the wall).
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Oct 30, 2020 05:39
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actionjackson posted:Looking at the pictures, it looks like there is some sort of recessed area on the rear bottom (lol) part, including where the 240V wall connection is. I suppose this is the only way you could plug it in while being able to have it all the way up to the wall (i.e. the plug doesn't stick between the back of the range and the wall). Yeah, every electric range will have some sort of rear indent to accommodate the electric or gas connections while sitting flush, wouldn't much work otherwise. Note: I was kidding about tileing your range in, do not do that.
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Oct 30, 2020 06:54
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Just went through a bad storm and looked at the basement to see how it handled it. Could be worse, but I discovered I've got a leaky pipe joint on my PVC drain pipe leading out of the house. Looking online, some guides say to use silicone repair tape or fiberglass wrap. Would either of those or any other solutions shy of calling in a plumber to replace pipes work for a long or short term fix?
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Oct 30, 2020 14:37
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Elviscat posted:Yeah, every electric range will have some sort of rear indent to accommodate the electric or gas connections while sitting flush, wouldn't much work otherwise. thank you. my current gas range doesn't actually go up to the wall because the giant gas cord thing gets in the way.
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Oct 30, 2020 16:11
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Bad Munki posted:Damnit, now you got me looking at Bosch appliances. Ranges and ovens of all sorts and so on. The dishwasher was a gateway drug. The dishwasher is what you get for free when you buy a kitchen's worth of appliance, fyi. That's the typical package deal.
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Oct 30, 2020 17:00
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Motronic posted:Shim the bottom hinge. So I tried that, with as little as one shim, and it kicked the center out too much. The pet of the door where the lock meets the door jamb was hitting. It’s like I need to pull that part in.
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Oct 30, 2020 17:24
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nwin posted:So I tried that, with as little as one shim, and it kicked the center out too much. The pet of the door where the lock meets the door jamb was hitting. It’s like I need to pull that part in. Do you own a chisel? Wood plane?
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Oct 30, 2020 17:28
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H110Hawk posted:Do you own a chisel? Wood plane? Negative. Willing to buy whatever I need though.
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Oct 30, 2020 17:49
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nwin posted:Negative. Willing to buy whatever I need though. Buy a small hand plane. it won't be too expensive, like $15 max. Look up some videos on how to adjust them. If you adjust the blade out too far, it will bite into the wood and take out chunks instead of shaving off little slivers of wood like you want.
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Oct 30, 2020 17:54
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OK, it's freezing in here. I live alone in a standalone garage and the gas was never done to code in the first place so the gas meter is locked off. I have a 240v, 30a dryer outlet that is available. At Home Depot they had exactly one 240v Space Heater, but it uses a NEMA 6-20 plug.  Assuming I don't give a poo poo about codes, is there a physics-based reason why I can't just wire this dryer plug into the Leviton socket pictured to make an adapter dongle for the space heater? Then just put shrink tubing on the 4th unused wire and stash it in the black Leviton housing?
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Oct 30, 2020 18:34
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14-30R to 6-20P is in theory fine but you should change out the breaker to be 20A so you have the correct overcurrent protection for your device. You can even find pigtails that will do it for you save for the overcurrent protection, this one is way overpriced but you get the idea. Just make sure it's not "L"14-30R. (And make sure I have R and P correct for your application. You need and R for your devices P.) https://www.amazon.com/AC-WORKS-S14...866&s=hi&sr=1-5 Mod edit: emphasis Somebody fucked around with this message at 03:53 on Nov 12, 2020 |
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Oct 30, 2020 18:59
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H110Hawk posted:14-30R to 6-20P is in theory fine but you should change out the breaker to be 20A so you have the correct overcurrent protection for your device. You can even find pigtails that will do it for you save for the overcurrent protection, this one is way overpriced but you get the idea. Just make sure it's not "L"14-30R. (And make sure I have R and P correct for your application. You need and R for your devices P.) Well the Leviton recepticle and dryer cord I posted were like $25 total, I put them together and now this thing is blasting crazy heat! I've saved a lot of money on electric car charging adapters by making them myself this way, but never with a home appliance before and never with mismatch on the number of wires. I'll just get an in-line 20a fuse for the heater so I can switch back to using the dryer outlet for the actual dryer on occasion. (USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)
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Oct 30, 2020 20:04
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I tore out the crumbling concrete steps on my porch and plan on replacing them with wood ones. The porch is 18” off the ground, would a 9” rise be uncomfortable/dangerous? Or should I do 3 steps instead of 2? This is what I’m working with  Also if I don’t have enough concrete to attach the stringers to the porch a 4x4 in that indentation would be pretty close to flush with the overhang. I could attach 4x4s to the porch and attach the stringers to that.
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Oct 30, 2020 20:21
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nwin posted:So I tried that, with as little as one shim, and it kicked the center out too much. The pet of the door where the lock meets the door jamb was hitting. It’s like I need to pull that part in. One trick is to remove the center screw on the top hinge and replace it with 4" long screw through the jamb and into the studs holding the door frame. You can get a better bite with the longer screw than the standard short hinge screws. Tighten the 4" screw enough to pull the jamb into plumb and that should also level your door. The punt option is to shave the door. If everything is level and plumb and/or the 4" screw trick doesn't work, bust out a wood plane and go to town. Just remember it is very easy to take wood off a door, but not so easy to put it back on. i.e. if you shave a door and then level everything, you've got a chance of getting light gaps because your door is longer a rectangle.
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Oct 30, 2020 20:23
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dangling pointer posted:I tore out the crumbling concrete steps on my porch and plan on replacing them with wood ones. To me 9" seems like a hefty rise as well that's probably fine for taller people that are without physical limitations but I think you really want 3 steps here.
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Oct 30, 2020 20:28
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Mod edit: bad advice
Somebody fucked around with this message at 03:49 on Nov 12, 2020 |
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Oct 30, 2020 20:38
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tangy yet delightful posted:Well according to google "The maximum allowable stair rise is 7 3/4 inches, and the minimum stair rise is 4 inches." Yeah, most things I’ve read suggest 7.5 inches, 1.5” doesn’t seem too much more but I have no idea what makes steps not a death trap. Going with 3 steps is probably the best option, just wanted an outside opinion.
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Oct 30, 2020 21:03
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Check local codes where applicable, too.
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Oct 30, 2020 21:04
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dangling pointer posted:Yeah, most things I’ve read suggest 7.5 inches, 1.5” doesn’t seem too much more but I have no idea what makes steps not a death trap. Going with 3 steps is probably the best option, just wanted an outside opinion. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L1vqQi5Tl70 Reminded me of this video so here thread have this.
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Oct 30, 2020 21:06
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HycoCam posted:If you have a 4' level check both jambs and the top of the door. My guess would be the door and hinge side jamb aren't level and plumb. The top hinge will tend to sag over time, especially with solid core doors. The 4” screw got me 90% there! Now it’s just the bolt that goes into the door, the mechanism itself...no idea what it’s called. The metal piece seems to be sticking out too much so maybe I can dremel around that a bit. Thanks!
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Oct 30, 2020 21:06
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nwin posted:The 4” screw got me 90% there! Yeah, if the hole in the strike plate isn't aligned with the bolt then the easiest solution is to just dremel the hole bigger.
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Oct 30, 2020 21:30
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dangling pointer posted:I tore out the crumbling concrete steps on my porch and plan on replacing them with wood ones. Two steps. The ground is zero. The first step is at 6". The second step will be at 12". And the top step will be walking on to the slab 18". Meaning you only need to build two steps.
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Oct 31, 2020 02:18
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HycoCam posted:Is this a trick question?  I thought that was considered 3 steps. 2 steps it is.
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Oct 31, 2020 03:10
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