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thanks for the info! I noticed another bidet seat that had quite a bit higher power requirement, like 780 W or so. I would assume based on what you said that this would require a dedicated circuit. I cannot connect to my sink really because it's an enclosed vanity cabinet, so you'd have to drill through the side and it wouldn't look particularly attractive. also having an outlet there will give me a ton of options for nice seats. I will ask the electrician about my options. I added some annotations to my roomstyler image to show where things are - the breaker box is in my bedroom. the bathroom is represented by the blank background area in the bottom right - that rectangle on the right side is the tub/shower. So I'd want another outlet on that bottom wall - the existing one is up on the side wall next to the vanity - this one has a dedicated spot on the breaker box, labeled "bath GFI." On the other side of that bottom wall is the laundry room which has dedicated outlets as well. actionjackson fucked around with this message at 14:24 on Apr 28, 2021 |
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Apr 28, 2021 14:16
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:This seems odd to me...the panel ought to be big enough that no amount of contraction/expansion would allow it to leave a gap around any of the edges. Or that's what I would think, anyway. Can you move the panel around within the frame? Like, open the door, press on the panel from both sides with your hands, and try to slide or lift it within the frame. If you can, one possibility might be to try to glue or tack nail it in a position where there's no gap. I see what you're saying, and the panel pushes in and out (as in, back and forth), but not freely within the frame. I think the trim is the only thing holding it in and preventing it from popping out completely. I was thinking of prying off the trim to get a better look but it seems to be glued down with an adhesive and will definitely get destroyed no matter how careful I try to be. Fuckin' old wood, man melon cat fucked around with this message at 16:15 on Apr 28, 2021 |
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Apr 28, 2021 16:04
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melon cat posted:I see what you're saying, and the panel pushes in and out (as in, back and forth), but not freely within the frame. I think the trim is the only thing holding it in and preventing it from popping out completely. I was thinking of prying off the trim to get a better look but it seems to be glued down with an adhesive and will definitely get destroyed no matter how careful I try to be. Fuckin' old wood, man Well, the quick-and-ugly patch job would be to use a clear silicone caulk to fill in the gap. It seems a shame to do that to that door, but any other solution I can think of would involve disassembly. Clear caulk shouldn't look too bad though, just make sure to wipe off the excess.
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Apr 28, 2021 17:14
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actionjackson posted:thanks for the info! I noticed another bidet seat that had quite a bit higher power requirement, like 780 W or so. I would assume based on what you said that this would require a dedicated circuit. Is that a single story with an attic above and crawlspace below? If so it's probably just as easy to run a new homerun, any electrician worth their salt should be able to fish down from the panel and up from the crawlspace without drywall damage. I think the code is up for interpretation on whether a dedicated circuit is required, but for bathrooms I look at it like this: A top of the line hair dryer is 1875 Watts, why that specific? Because at 125V that's exactly 15A, that's the largest possible load you can plug into a NEMA 5-15 GFI, the circuit is probably rated at 20A, so you have room to charge your tooth brush or shaver on top of the hairdryer. Obviously you don't want 700W of bidet on top of that 1875 of hair dryer, but you have to ask yourself, what's the odds of someone blow seeing their hair while using the heating feature on the bidet? Do you want the extra reliability of knowing that someone could do both?
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Apr 28, 2021 17:47
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Hey any PNW friends out there - roof moss is a thing here, and I know people sprinkle a powder along the peak of their roof during the rainy season to kill it. Is there an optimal time of year to do this? How bad should the moss be before I do it? There is a little bit growing at the edges of some shingles but it's not crazy yet.
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Apr 28, 2021 18:05
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Now should be a good time, you can also get moss killer that goes on a hose and use it any time. I'd also recommend getting a zinc strip and installing it under/poking out of the ridge cap where you're having issues, that'll keep the moss from growing back.
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Apr 28, 2021 18:10
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the electrician estimated $300 to put in the outlet behind the toilet. He asked me to make sure the mirror could come off as he's going to have be able to get behind there. Then of course when I was moving it around, it got a small crack in the bottom corner. And it's 42x48 which is a really weird size that almost no one carries if I ever wanted to replace it, but maybe there's a way to reduce the appearance a bit. he also mentioned something about patching some drywall? I am having someone to come in to paint after this so maybe they can help. Elviscat posted:Is that a single story with an attic above and crawlspace below? If so it's probably just as easy to run a new homerun, any electrician worth their salt should be able to fish down from the panel and up from the crawlspace without drywall damage. no this is a one story condo it's just me here, the only thing I use that's plugged in is my toothbrush actionjackson fucked around with this message at 01:18 on Apr 29, 2021 |
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Apr 29, 2021 00:38
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There's a brick border around our patio, the bricks keep coming loose. They'll be fine for a while, then one comes loose, then the one next to it, and on and on. Once one brick fails, the rest start to go quickly. I've used mortar mix, landscape adhesive, I think I used construction adhesive at one point. The adhesive isn't working well, you can see from the picture that it's just peeling away from the base. I've always thought part of the problem is the overhang at the edge. If someone steps off the patio - the bricks always fail at the high-traffic sections - and they put weight on that piece that hangs over, that's a lot of pressure acting to lift up the rest of the brick. It basically acts as a fulcrum. So how should I be doing this - is there some material I should try, some method that's best to keep these in place?  
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Apr 29, 2021 13:34
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None of the construction adhesives I know of are much good in tension. I think your analysis is spot on, and the only solution that will last at all well is to fully support the top bricks by adding another course underneath them. The only other thing that comes to mind would be bolting the bricks down somehow, but I can't help but feel like that would be a lot of work, horribly expensive, and also lead to a lot of shattered bricks.
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Apr 29, 2021 15:28
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I don't know if this is the right place to ask, but I've been noticing my chair getting wobbly over the past week, and after some alarming cracks and creaks I've had a look under there and found this. Clearly, the bit that connects the cylinder to the seat is coming apart. The seat's still good, if a bit worn, and the wheelbase is absolutely fine, in fact I replaced that myself a year or two ago when the one it came with broke. Is this something I can replace, or am I looking at biting the bullet and getting a new chair?
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Apr 29, 2021 15:35
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I doubt you can get parts for that.. sometimes you can replace the pneumatic tube since they are kind of universal but they usually sit in that bracket not part of it. That crack will be a part of the parts for the chair, you can call the company and see if they'll sell you a spare one for a decent price. you could try some kind of epoxy for that material but It probalby will not hold out very well.
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Apr 29, 2021 15:46
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:the only solution that will last at all well is to fully support the top bricks by adding another course underneath them. 
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Apr 29, 2021 17:43
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Dabir posted:I don't know if this is the right place to ask, but I've been noticing my chair getting wobbly over the past week, and after some alarming cracks and creaks I've had a look under there and found this. Clearly, the bit that connects the cylinder to the seat is coming apart. The seat's still good, if a bit worn, and the wheelbase is absolutely fine, in fact I replaced that myself a year or two ago when the one it came with broke. Is this something I can replace, or am I looking at biting the bullet and getting a new chair? Get a new chair before that breaks and punches through the seat cushion into your rear end in a top hat.
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Apr 29, 2021 18:06
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VelociBacon posted:Get a new chair before that breaks and punches through the seat cushion into your rear end in a top hat. 
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Apr 29, 2021 18:22
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VelociBacon posted:Get a new chair before that breaks and punches through the seat cushion into your rear end in a top hat. Oh I've got an emergency chair, nobody's sitting on this one for the foreseeable. Just feel like it would be be a shame to lose the seat and the wheelbase when they're completely intact. tater_salad posted:I doubt you can get parts for that.. sometimes you can replace the pneumatic tube since they are kind of universal but they usually sit in that bracket not part of it. That crack will be a part of the parts for the chair, you can call the company and see if they'll sell you a spare one for a decent price. you could try some kind of epoxy for that material but It probalby will not hold out very well. I think I've found the manufacturer and their FAQ does say replacement parts are available for their products. I've emailed them so I guess it just remains to see what they say.
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Apr 29, 2021 18:36
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Apr 29, 2021 18:48
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So we had some water damage in our recently refinished basement this week thanks to a faulty installation of some water treatment equipment (drain line for the filter popped itself out and backwashed all over our floor). The water treatment company is accepting responsibility fully, fixed the cause, and opened a claim with their business insurance to cover the damages. The insurance company is getting ready to send out their independent adjuster, and I want to make sure I get absolutely everything I can covered. I put a couple hundred hours into this basement personally last year after we had a sump failure flood back in Fall 2019. Seeing all my hard work torn up and piled in the middle of the basement sucks. I want to make sure that the insurance covers it getting fixed back to 100% of where it was Monday night. What are some things I need to be looking out for or pressing with the claims adjuster? I don't want them to try to get away from paying for new flooring, new trim, all labor, and damaged personal items.
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Apr 29, 2021 18:53
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Situation: I have a house with a basement suite. It was a conversion from a regular old bungalow, thus it only has 1 furnace system and therefore all the ducts are interconnected. Problem: Sound travels through the ducts because the upstairs duct is connected to a matching duct right underneath. Obviously I know enough to not just jam the duct full of stuff to dampen the sound. But what are my options to eliminate or at least reduce the Sound traveling through the ductwork? Or is this just a situation you have to live with without tearing up the interconnected ductwork.
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Apr 30, 2021 00:46
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brugroffil posted:So we had some water damage in our recently refinished basement this week thanks to a faulty installation of some water treatment equipment (drain line for the filter popped itself out and backwashed all over our floor). The water treatment company is accepting responsibility fully, fixed the cause, and opened a claim with their business insurance to cover the damages. Do you have any photos of what it was before? If so, get them printed out at walgreens or whatever, and give them to the adjuster. I don't know what it is, but physical photos seem to have way more of an impact then "let me show you this on my phone". Bonus points if you can accurately date them (does your phone save timestamps?) I'd take some photos of what it looks like now, and get those printed as well. There's also this reddit guy which might help. Note: I've never had to deal with this - just my suggestions to get  of photos printed in the hopes it helps!
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Apr 30, 2021 01:03
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someone mentioned something earlier about the toto C100 being one of the only electric bidet seats that doesn't require a direct circuit. Are you determining this just by looking at max wattage? It's very low (406), where I've seen some that are 1500 W. Is there some specific number I should look for that I can't exceed if the outlet is being fed from the GFCI? edit: I'm looking at a couple that are around 870 W actionjackson fucked around with this message at 02:36 on Apr 30, 2021 |
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Apr 30, 2021 01:48
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actionjackson posted:someone mentioned something earlier about the toto C100 being one of the only electric bidet seats that doesn't require a direct circuit. Are you determining this just by looking at max wattage? It's very low (406), where I've seen some that are 1500 W. Is there some specific number I should look for that I can't exceed if the outlet is being fed from the GFCI? I know you probably already have your mind made up, but the water only bidets are more than adequate. Not as luxurious as heated seat, heated water, but the cold water isn't bad, and I'm saying this from Canada where the water is pretty cold in the winter. It greatly simplifies your project, I've got the Luxe Neo 180. Just thought I would throw it out there.
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Apr 30, 2021 02:40
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Meow Meow Meow posted:I know you probably already have your mind made up, but the water only bidets are more than adequate. Not as luxurious as heated seat, heated water, but the cold water isn't bad, and I'm saying this from Canada where the water is pretty cold in the winter. It greatly simplifies your project, I've got the Luxe Neo 180. Just thought I would throw it out there. Yeah, I've had a non-electric one for about a year now (kohler puretide), and I am in a cold region as well (MN). It's okay, but definitely cheap feeling. There's definitely some specific features I'd find pretty useful, warm water and seat is part of it, but also things like an LED nightlight (especially), fan, etc. There's some alpha ones that are quite affordable that have a bunch of nice features https://bidetking.com/products/alpha-ix-hybrid-bidet-toilet-seat https://bidetking.com/products/alph...&pr_seq=uniform these are the two that have a max of around 870 W
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Apr 30, 2021 03:16
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devicenull posted:Do you have any photos of what it was before? If so, get them printed out at walgreens or whatever, and give them to the adjuster. I don't know what it is, but physical photos seem to have way more of an impact then "let me show you this on my phone". Bonus points if you can accurately date them (does your phone save timestamps?) I'd take some photos of what it looks like now, and get those printed as well. Thanks! That's a solid link. We have spent a lot of time down there this past year with the kids so there are probably literally a thousand photos, plus detailed walkthrough when I found out. And since literally everything damaged, including the flooring and trim, is less than a year old, I've got receipts for everything.
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Apr 30, 2021 03:35
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brugroffil posted:Thanks! That's a solid link. They should be writing to flood-cut the drywall and a mitigation company should be drying it out. Everything that was touched by water that isn't impermeable should be replaced, though things that are unique or irreplaceable can be cleaned/restored. Floor replaced, base, door trims, drywall 1-2' up & re-paint/paper the walls. The most important thing is showing the loss (damage) - documentation. Photos prior help, though most adjusters should have a good sense of what it looked like. We see a lot of hosed-up homes... Make a detailed contents inventory list, with as much of the following as possible: when / where purchased & for how much. Include receipts if you can get them to show the age. Photos of everything. Throw out nothing. If you threw any of the contents out & kept no record, you may not get paid for those. You can get a contractor that you're comfortable with to do the work, or you can take the money & do it yourself. They can't hit you with too much depreciation for year-old stuff, but they only owe you the depreciated value (i.e. Actual Cash Value, or ACV) on a liability claim. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 05:56 on Apr 30, 2021 |
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Apr 30, 2021 05:53
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actionjackson posted:Yeah, I've had a non-electric one for about a year now (kohler puretide), and I am in a cold region as well (MN). It's okay, but definitely cheap feeling. There's definitely some specific features I'd find pretty useful, warm water and seat is part of it, but also things like an LED nightlight (especially), fan, etc. I wouldn't worry about it, just don't blow dry your hair and squirt your butt at the sane time  You're getting an electrician to run the wire too, right? If they're not worried you shouldn't be.
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Apr 30, 2021 05:59
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Elviscat posted:just don't blow dry your hair and squirt your butt at the sane time What are you, the cops?
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Apr 30, 2021 13:47
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brugroffil posted:Thanks! That's a solid link. Hire a contractor to repair this. Don't try to DIY it. Materials are in seriously short supply and price is fluctuating daily on staple goods. You don't want to submit for what it might cost today only to wind up needing another $1000 for some random cost. Your contractor should have experience with insurance companies and know how to submit documents and supplements to make sure you come out whole. And yeah at a year old hopefully the adjuster just pays to put it all back and doesn't try to nickel and dime 1/20th of the price for depreciation or something silly.
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Apr 30, 2021 14:14
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H110Hawk posted:Hire a contractor to repair this. Don't try to DIY it. Materials are in seriously short supply and price is fluctuating daily on staple goods. You don't want to submit for what it might cost today only to wind up needing another $1000 for some random cost. Your contractor should have experience with insurance companies and know how to submit documents and supplements to make sure you come out whole. Also 100% hire a contractor to do this because you already did this once, they will pay a contractor for their time they will not pay you for your time. Do you want to do your basement again for free because someone else hosed up? If my HVAC guy hosed up and flooded my basement because he installed the water heater sideways or something I would not want to do the work I did to it again.
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Apr 30, 2021 14:31
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Oh yeah absolutely. I have no desire to do this again inside of a year. Thanks everyone. e: last time we did it ourselves because a) I like doing that sort of stuff, generally and b) it was a sump backup issue so the insurance company cut us a check for our max coverage which was enough for materials but not for installation. That wasn't so bad because the basement was in sorry shape for it and we basically got a free $5k to do a project we planned on doing anyway. It's nice to stand back and look at the difference you made yourself after a lot of hours. Not so much for this because it'd just be a ton of time I don't really have to get it right back to where it was. Anyone know if you can ask for time for labor for stuff like having to reassemble replacement cabinets etc? Our personal property damage is pretty limited but it'll probably take a day to go to the store, purchase the cabinets (and kids toys), bring them home, assemble etc. brugroffil fucked around with this message at 15:16 on Apr 30, 2021 |
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Apr 30, 2021 15:00
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Elviscat posted:I wouldn't worry about it, just don't blow dry your hair and squirt your butt at the sane time Oh yeah, I am 100% having the electrician do everything. All I'm doing is buying the outlet! He did say that he would have to make sure he can run the wire through, i.e. there isn't any poo poo that's in the way behind the wall, and if he finds he can't I'll just pay him for his time and be done with it.
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Apr 30, 2021 15:01
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Couple questions about some weird stuff going on in the back of my house. Problem 1: Two issues combined to create a tiny river in my backyard. The first issue is that the house had no gutters (wtf), the second is that the yard slopes toward the house. Gutters have been installed, though the river still formed after a thunderstorm. Can I just add dirt to it to level it? Or will that displace the problem?  I am hoping to add a mini-trench/rain garden to the middle of the yard (not pictured) to capture the water that flows down the hill. Problem 2: The previous owner decided to throw concrete on top of the entirety of the rock wall in the back. These rock walls are a common feature in homes in this part of the South and I don't exactly know how to manage or repair them. I would find the feature charming if not for this failed mortar. What can I do to fix the problem? My guess is to painstakingly jab it all off and then add an actual mortar?    Bonus picture of my back deck becoming a lake after it rains 
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Apr 30, 2021 15:31
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Looking at a house in a rural area today, and saw this thing in the yard. I'm embarrassed to admit I can't even begin to guess what it is.
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May 1, 2021 01:22
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Slugworth posted:Looking at a house in a rural area today, and saw this thing in the yard. I'm embarrassed to admit I can't even begin to guess what it is. Maybe it’s processing methane or other emissions from the septic system?
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May 1, 2021 02:41
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It's definitely a vacuum pump attached to a tank, so it's sucking something out of the ground.
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May 1, 2021 02:56
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Aren’t we all
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May 1, 2021 03:10
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It's weird, because the only info I can find on company suggests that all they do as a company is convert cooking grease to biofuel.
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May 1, 2021 03:24
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Don’t we all
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May 1, 2021 03:28
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Slugworth posted:It's weird, because the only info I can find on company suggests that all they do as a company is convert cooking grease to biofuel. Same I have a good guess since the company's has like no web presence at all. And appears to have been bought in 2015 by Mahoney Environmental. That setup was on the back of a truck of some kind and used to suck the fat out of the "fat dumpsters". That thing came off of the truck because it was broken /they sold the truck / replaced it and wanted it around as a spare.
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May 1, 2021 03:57
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tater_salad posted:Same
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May 1, 2021 04:06
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So I'm trying to get a vacuum breaker off a bib to replace it with something that won't squirt me every time i shut off the bib. I've looked around the vacuum breaker and I *think* there's no set screw, but the bib is in an awkward place (surrounded by bushes) so I wasn't able to get a good look. However, when I try to unscrew it, it turns for a bit but then gets "stuck", almost as if it were tightening up against something else. Here's a photo and a video:  https://i.imgur.com/h3gxpgR.mp4 As you can see, it has about a quarter turn of give before stopping. I've tried putting some effort into it, as well as shutting off the water and raising the bonnet all the way up, but that hasn't helped, and I don't want to accidentally break something. Has anyone seen this before? Is this a symptom that there's a set screw somewhere that I need to drill out?
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May 1, 2021 19:26
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