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Corla Plankun posted:Hey you should probably edit your license out of that post. I'm pretty sure the stuff on the front could be inferred from the barcodes on the back. Done and done, that makes a shitload of sense and I have no idea why I didn't realize it before.
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Apr 20, 2021 02:15
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I'm going to get a few 15 amp GFCI outlets to match my new wall plates, but noticed something weird with the two main brands HD sells (lutron and leviton) https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lutron-15-Amp-Tamper-Resistant-GFCI-Duplex-Receptacle-in-White-CAR-15-GFST-WH/206793173 1 for $49 https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton...1-04W/305340161 4 for $55??? there doesn't seem to be any enormous differences, though one is 120 volt and the other is 125 volt, and I have no idea if I can do either voltage. I'm wondering if maybe some Lutron stuff is just out of stock actionjackson fucked around with this message at 16:18 on Apr 20, 2021 |
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Apr 20, 2021 16:15
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actionjackson posted:https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lutron-15-Amp-Tamper-Resistant-GFCI-Duplex-Receptacle-in-White-CAR-15-GFST-WH/206793173 1 for $49 They're the same, don't worry about it.
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Apr 20, 2021 18:09
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actionjackson posted:I'm going to get a few 15 amp GFCI outlets to match my new wall plates, but noticed something weird with the two main brands HD sells (lutron and leviton) In the context of residential voltage, 110 = 115 = 120 = 125. 120 is nominal and what SHOULD be used these days, but there are reasons for the others. Ultimately it doesn't matter because it's all the same thing from a design standpoint. Basic receptacles, switches, and GFCIs are generally commodity items unless you're buying fancy ones with USB ports or smart home connections. Get the cheapest one that is in stock and is the right color/style for your wall plates. As long as it's UL listed, it'll work just as well as the others. Under normal residential use, it'll be 20+ years until it wears out. edit: Doesn't have to be UL listed, just needs to be NRTL listed. UL is certainly the most common, but you might also see ETL in the residential space. Maybe TUV as well. DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 19:20 on Apr 20, 2021 |
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Apr 20, 2021 19:09
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Also like, you're getting GFCI because you need an outlet that can trip there right and not only to match the wall plate... right?
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Apr 20, 2021 19:21
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thanks, and yes a GFCI is needed!  The current ones are also GFCI, they have just faded in color over 15 years such that they no longer appear white and thus do not match my new white screwless wall plates. This is in the bathroom and the kitchen, so all are near running water. The other non-GFCI outlets have already been replaced with non-GFCI outlets that match the plate color. actionjackson fucked around with this message at 20:03 on Apr 20, 2021 |
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Apr 20, 2021 20:00
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DaveSauce posted:In the context of residential voltage, 110 = 115 = 120 = 125. yeah pretty mcuh this. I've used the $15 Levitrons all over my hous(s) and never really had any issues.
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Apr 20, 2021 20:34
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I'm trying to set up a bed frame and I've run into something strange. The three cross beams match up with these three slots in each rail, but don't have any clear way of fastening to them. You can tell from the scuffs that the previous owner just left the beams sitting on top. But the beams also have oddly convenient holes on the ends, and are telescoping so those holes could line up with the slots if the beams were underneath. Anyone have an idea how these are supposed to work?  Beam flipped over: 
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Apr 20, 2021 20:39
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NotNut posted:I'm trying to set up a bed frame and I've run into something strange. The three cross beams match up with these three slots in each rail, but don't have any clear way of fastening to them. You can tell from the scuffs that the previous owner just left the beams sitting on top. But the beams also have oddly convenient holes on the ends, and are telescoping so those holes could line up with the slots if the beams were underneath. Anyone have an idea how these are supposed to work? the fact that they look like they extend mean they look to be universal and probably don't' attach to anything I've had several bed where the crossbeams are just there to keep the box supported a little more than the 1/4" lip around the bottom. They also don't look to be original the original ones were probably wood and as wide as that hole. Once you have your box spring and your mattress on that thing those beams aren't really going to move anyways, and if' your bedtime activities would have moved them, then the screws in pressboard probably also would rip right out.
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Apr 20, 2021 20:50
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I've never owned a bed that the slats/cross beams fastened down. As was just mentioned above, they just lay across as a platform for the box springs.
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Apr 20, 2021 22:08
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actionjackson posted:I'm going to get a few 15 amp GFCI outlets to match my new wall plates, but noticed something weird with the two main brands HD sells (lutron and leviton)
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Apr 21, 2021 04:06
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stealie72 posted:Any reason you're buying the $50 ones and not the $15 ones? Oh I will get the second (which would be about 14 each), I was just confused why the price difference was so large.
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Apr 21, 2021 04:07
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Yeah with a price difference that big on a commodity item like outlets, I too would be wondering what the difference was. Like thankfully codes are a thing but without knowing the details of code, is the expensive one going to trip faster in a meaningful way? Why on earth does an outlet even exist at almost 4x the price with no discernable difference? I would definitely be going for the cheaper one but it's weird enough to raise my eyebrows
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Apr 21, 2021 05:09
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The Lutron is available in a lot of esoteric colors while the contractor pack GFCIs are usually only found in black, white, almond/ivory, and grey.
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Apr 21, 2021 05:15
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I have a kitchen table that's probably cheap rubber wood or something that the finish has gone soft and sticky on. Eventually I'll replace it, but until then, what is the best way to remove the current finish and what kind of paint should I use to redo it. I don't care at all about keeping a wood finish, just about my arm not sticking to the tabletop anymore. I will have to do this an an apartment, so recommendations on fast drying or low fume products are great.
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Apr 21, 2021 16:27
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The Lutron is also going to be in gloss to match their screwless plates, and appears to have a "designer" inset rounded square where the test and reset buttons are.
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Apr 21, 2021 16:32
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Qwijib0 posted:The Lutron is also going to be in gloss to match their screwless plates, and appears to have a "designer" inset rounded square where the test and reset buttons are. yeah I have the lutron screwless plates, I'm a bit concerned that if I get the leviton it probably won't match I'll pay the extra cost to get something that matches if needed, thankfully I only have three of these outlets though actionjackson fucked around with this message at 16:51 on Apr 21, 2021 |
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Apr 21, 2021 16:48
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actionjackson posted:yeah I have the lutron screwless plates, I'm a bit concerned that if I get the leviton it probably won't match Please don't pay $55 for one 15A GFCI outlet that isn't also cooking you dinner first or something.
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Apr 21, 2021 17:44
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H110Hawk posted:Please don't pay $55 for one 15A GFCI outlet that isn't also cooking you dinner first or something. beats paying $15 for one that doesn't match, and then being annoyed by it not matching every day I'll take a look at both in store, and if they look the same I'll get the cheaper one of course
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Apr 21, 2021 17:55
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actionjackson posted:beats paying $15 for one that doesn't match, and then being annoyed by it not matching every day the real option is.. replace the $55 one with another $15 one to avoid buying 4 of the $55 ones.
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Apr 21, 2021 18:01
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actionjackson posted:beats paying $15 for one that doesn't match, and then being annoyed by it not matching every day For the price difference you could buy new designer fancy-pants wall plates and still have money leftover for lunch after just 1 GFCI. 3 gets you a nice dinner for 2 somewhere. Or you could buy generic $1 wall plates that match and have a poo poo-ton of money left over. Or you could buy the $4 leviton screwless wall plate if you desperately need screwless. That GFCI is not worth $50+. DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 19:09 on Apr 21, 2021 |
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Apr 21, 2021 19:06
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Think how many disgusting home depot parking lot hot dogs you could get. My arteries are hardening just thinking about it.
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Apr 21, 2021 19:16
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I made an error, my toggle light switches have lutron screwless plates, but for my outlets I have leviton plates and receptacles. This is because leviton does not make a screwless wall plate for toggle switches (for whatever reason). So the $15 will match with the plates: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-Plus-1-Gang-Screwless-Snap-On-Decora-Wall-Plate-White-R72-80301-00W/100199643
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Apr 21, 2021 19:51
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Any door wizards in the house? One of my bedroom doors is not level and swings itself open: https://imgur.com/a/g8CUg8Y How do I fix this? Seems like the bottom hinge needs to move out (err in I guess, depending on your perspective). Also the screw holes for the bottom hinge are knackered and don't really grip anymore so the screws get loose, but even when it's in its original position the door does that. But what's the correct way to fix it? I was thinking of removing the door, removing the bottom hinge, filling the screw holes, using a plumb bob or something from the top hinge to determine the correct placement for the bottom, then drilling new holes? e: Actually I think it's the top hinge. I noticed it wasn't fully seated into the pocket that's cut into the frame (sorry I dunno the correct terminology) - it was about a millimeter out, as shown below. On all my other doors, the hinges are fully seated into that cut.  I already filled the middle hole before taking the pic, it was drilled at such an angle that it wouldn't allow the hinge to fully seat. The top and bottom holes are fine. Am I doing the right thing here? CheddarGoblin fucked around with this message at 23:13 on Apr 21, 2021 |
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Apr 21, 2021 22:40
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Hutla posted:I have a kitchen table that's probably cheap rubber wood or something that the finish has gone soft and sticky on. Eventually I'll replace it, but until then, what is the best way to remove the current finish and what kind of paint should I use to redo it. Gathering you've tried deep cleaners such as Awesome Orange. Test an inconspicuous are with a 90% ispropyl alcohol & see if that works. If not, after further testing, I would spray & wipe it down with WD-40 followed by Murphy's Oil Soap If none of those remove the stickiness, use paint thinner to see if it'll knock down the surface. CheddarGoblin posted:Any door wizards in the house? One of my bedroom doors is not level and swings itself open: Pack the holes with wood glue & toothpicks. Don't bother with a level. Get longer screws, or at least one longer screw per hinge. At least two inches/50mm. Longer is better. Leave the middle hinge snug but not tight (yet) Hang the door. If it's still swinging on its own you probably need to suck in the top hinge, so start burying the long screw, a quarter turn or so at a time and stop when the door behaves. If it still swings, back everything out a little, and shim the bottom hinge. Repeat. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 23:24 on Apr 21, 2021 |
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Apr 21, 2021 23:19
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Hutla posted:I have a kitchen table that's probably cheap rubber wood or something that the finish has gone soft and sticky on. Eventually I'll replace it, but until then, what is the best way to remove the current finish and what kind of paint should I use to redo it. Try the things PainterofCrap suggested first, but if the finish has gone sticky, the finish is probably beyond repair and needs to be stripped. Unfortunately that's a huge mess that needs good ventilation and I would not recommend trying to do it indoors. If you can get it cleaned up to non-sticky, you can scuff sand/rough up/degloss the current finish and paint over it with whatever. Some flavor of enamel usually does best on furniture imo.
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Apr 22, 2021 01:16
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Thanks a lot. It’s not really worth going whole hog for a perfect look. It originally came from Target, I think, and we’re planning on replacing it in the not too distant future, but with home furnishings the way they are limping along seems like the best option right now.
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Apr 22, 2021 03:23
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Certain cleaning products will make your wood finish soft and sticky.
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Apr 22, 2021 04:14
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Is there a shortage of double doors? I just need a set of hollow-core double doors with head & foot pins. The only place I can find anything actually in stock is Menard's custom door creator thing.
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Apr 23, 2021 14:59
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Looking at the usual suspects, it looks like french doors are the latest victim of bizarre COVID shortages, I bet if you wait a month everyone will be glutted with options as manufacturing catches back up. You can also try and find a shop that specializes in doors near you, they're often less effected by weird supply chain stuff.
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Apr 23, 2021 18:47
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two questions: 1) I have several light switches I never use, because I don't use a lot of lighting - there isn't even a fixture attached for them anymore. I went ahead and removed the switches and put on a blank wall plate. I didn't have those twisty things (whatever they are called) for the exposed wire, so I cut off the exposed wire such that the entire wire is covered by rubber (i.e. you can only see wire at the end if you look at it from the side). As far as I know these wires are not touching anything. Do I need to still put electrical tape over the ends? 2) I want to replace the track lighting in my galley kitchen. It connects with one of those standard circular junction boxes. The fixture I'm interested in says it mounts to a "4 inch octagon box." Am I just out of luck here? https://www.lightology.com/index.php?module=prod_detail&prod_id=880862 thanks!
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Apr 23, 2021 22:56
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1) buy wire nuts and cover the end of any energized wiring before abandoning it. 2) that should mount up fine to a circular box too.
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Apr 23, 2021 23:02
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thanks - if I use the wire nuts, I actually have to expose some of the wire right? and then do I just use one wire nut for each wire (except the copper neutral one)? edit: what indicated to you that that light could connect to a circular box? actionjackson fucked around with this message at 23:42 on Apr 23, 2021 |
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Apr 23, 2021 23:32
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They'll bight through insulation well enough, but exposing 1/4" of copper is always better. Installing hundreds of light fixtures tells me that light will work with a circular box, reviewing product literature indicates octagonal boxes come with a 3½" hole spacing, most modern circular boxes come with 2¾" and 3½" hole spacing, I'd bet that track fixture has the standard universal mounting bar, but of course marketing designers are assholes about that sort of information.   E: looks like that track has 3½ OC holes milled in the base itself, you can always measure your circular box yourself, otherwise it wouldn't be too hard to replace the box if it doesn't fit. Elviscat fucked around with this message at 00:16 on Apr 24, 2021 |
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Apr 24, 2021 00:13
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ok, thanks again for the help - I did contact the company that makes the light just to double check as well I also went and exposed each of those wires a bit and put on the wire nuts.
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Apr 24, 2021 01:43
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I had to have some of my vinyl fence moved and repaired last year. Because of the move, the mechanism that opens and closes the latch was re-positioned and is barely holding on. In short, I'm planning on replacing the twisting handle style with a basic self closing latch, but when I remove the old hardware there's going to be some pretty big holes in the fence itself. Some screw holes for sure, and also about a quarter sized hole on either side where the meat of the cylinder was sitting. Is there a good way to patch those? Are vinyl patching kits a thing that you can get in an average big box store? I could see gluing down some kind of mesh and then applying something like caulk or epoxy to fix it appearance wise, but if I wanted to re-drill holes for hardware close, but not using the exact same spots, would that give structure?
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Apr 24, 2021 21:35
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edit: nm figure it out!
actionjackson fucked around with this message at 22:44 on Apr 24, 2021 |
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Apr 24, 2021 22:32
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Elviscat posted:They'll bight through Is ...is this right?
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Apr 24, 2021 23:04
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That is not the correct spelling of bite, no
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Apr 24, 2021 23:22
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bight is a word though, but it means to fasten with a rope :p
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Apr 24, 2021 23:55
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