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actionjackson posted:what's the best way to deal with this? maybe there are rubber bumpers that stick out more? or would new soft-close hinges resolve the issue? Hidden hinges like that are adjustable in several directions. All you need is a phillips head.
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Oct 18, 2020 22:36
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actionjackson posted:you know I looked these up, they appear to be an old version of the blum compact 33, but even for the current ones all I saw was height adjustment (using the screw that's on the edge mount in this case) and side to side adjustment (using a screw that this hinge doesn't have) in the manual. what am I missing here? Ewwww...those are super cheap. Sorry, I've never seen them without other adjustments. Like, even Ikea stuff comes with that. There still may be some slop in the "height" adjustment part that would allow you to "tilt" so get the top closed up more. It's worth slightly loosening the screws on the fixed side of the cabinet and then closing the door to see if you can move it into a position that you like better. If you can, just snug them up enough to kinda hold it in place, close and position by tapping or whatever and then carefully open and tighten them up.
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Oct 18, 2020 22:49
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PainterofCrap posted:You might be able to bend the tang between the stile (edge) mount and the door mount to suck 'em in a little. Yeah, that's a good idea but nuanced. Needle nose vise grips to do it just a hair at a time maybe.
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Oct 18, 2020 22:55
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actionjackson posted:what do you mean by this? i only know tang as a kool-aid competitor  Pinch like this with preferably needle nose vise grips so you can use the screw on the vise grip to control how much you go in at each time.
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Oct 18, 2020 23:03
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actionjackson posted:as an alternative, would using a clamp that holds the part of the cabinet door that doesn't touch (like the upper part in my video) to the frame help? Doubt it. Whatever your cabinet door is made of isn't going to be stiff enough to bend those hinges. Also, those metal hinges have springback. You'll crank that joint in and it will expand back out. Hoever you bend it, you need to be able to bend it PAST where it need to stay. You can't do that with the door shut.
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Oct 18, 2020 23:14
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actionjackson posted:it looks like blum does have a hinge that allows you to adjust on the third dimension (closer to and further away from the cabinet frame), but it's in their clip-top series which is for frameless cabinets. depth adjustment in this image Yeah, those are the style I was talking about. The big deal is if they are drop in for the cut out and screw placing of your current hinges. If not, that makes this a much larger project which you should just skip for now. You're going absolutely nuts bombing every subforum with your new house problems. Most of these won't be visible to you 6 months from now. You need to do a better job triaging what matters and what doesn't. For your own sanity.
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Oct 18, 2020 23:56
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Bi-la kaifa posted:I need to build a gate for my deck to keep the dogs out of the front yard. The deck has aluminum post and railing all around. My predicament is that the previous owner built these deck stairs double wide, and I can't get ahold of any metal gates that could function the way I'd like. Assuming I could just build a pair of wooden gates, could I mount them on the aluminum posts that are just fastened to the deck? It'd look very ugly but I'm looking for function over form here. My instincts say the wood would be too heavy but I'm not an expert. Yes. Do you want real answers? Start posting pictures that are meaningful maybe with scale and some idea of what you are trying to do.
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Oct 19, 2020 05:32
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They look like built ins. You don't remove them without destroying/dismantling them.
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Oct 20, 2020 22:02
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Christoph posted:Aw nuts. Do people do that, though? Is it common? Not anymore, but certainly at the time the look of those indicate.
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Oct 20, 2020 22:55
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Blakkout posted:EDIT: RE: ceiling medalion/boob light base talk: I've found that priming and painting the flimsy plastic ones makes them look a little less like flimsy plastic and a little more like real wood. They're supposed to look like plaster. And yeah, painting them definitely takes the smooth plastic look away.
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Oct 22, 2020 19:29
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Pham Nuwen posted:I'm wondering if it's just some defective glass. lololol. No. It is not defective glass. It's been shot at. The glass itself is a few dollars. How much it costs depends on what type of window it is (horizontal sliding is not nearly specific enough - is it single pane, double? Aluminum? Wood?), how hard it is to get at (looks like bars on the outside of your shot up window), and what labor rates are in your area are.
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Oct 26, 2020 21:49
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Pham Nuwen posted:I guess I thought "the outer pane" was a clear enough indicator That could have been a storm window, it could have been something else. So it's a double pane window. It's supposed to have inert gas between the panes. You need to contact someone who actually know how to work on the brand of window, which should be in one of the corners of the glass somewhere. It needs more than a glass repair/replacement to return it to it's original function.
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Oct 27, 2020 01:16
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FogHelmut posted:I know you don't want to remove concrete forms too early, but is it possible to leave them on for too long? Sure....I mean, too long to be able to get them off without messing the forms up. I assume you're talking about wood. If you're talking metal forms that have been properly treated with a release agent you'd basically need to leave them on long enough to rust in place.
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Oct 27, 2020 18:36
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Shim the bottom hinge.
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Oct 29, 2020 23:36
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Elviscat posted:Looks like 24" 5/16 is to the edge of the cooktop, 26 3/4 is total required floorspace, the difference being the door. The difference is the sloped control panel the top of which is shy of the absolute front of the range.
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Oct 30, 2020 04:25
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regulargonzalez posted:Theoretically, slide-ins have a higher end connotation to them. The real difference is where you prefer the control knobs, on the front or the back. What does that have to do with a slide in? All control knob positions are available in basically every style, other than rear control knobs - the objectively worst - being limited to cheap ranges.
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Oct 30, 2020 04:32
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Bad Munki posted:Damnit, now you got me looking at Bosch appliances. Ranges and ovens of all sorts and so on. The dishwasher was a gateway drug. The dishwasher is what you get for free when you buy a kitchen's worth of appliance, fyi. That's the typical package deal.
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Oct 30, 2020 17:00
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Teabag Dome Scandal posted:I have a buddy who tore some paint/drywall paper off their rental wall using command strips. It doesn't look like the core has been damaged. How do you repair something like this? A couple layers of spackle smoothed over it? Drywall patch kits with the screen are unnecessary since they didn't put an actual hole in the wall right? Yes and yes. To get it anywhere close to correct you'll need a drywall knife that is at least a bit more than half the widest dimension. Better yet for someone not familir with this to get one wider than the patch. That way you can use the contour of the wall to fill the "hole" left by the missing paper. If you do this well you be able to "finish sand" with a wet sponge.
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Nov 2, 2020 20:51
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GWBBQ posted:metal eating bacteria that turns black with iron in the water and pink with manganese (I may have that backwards) Nope you don't have that backwards, that's the stuff in the well at my old house. It's such a pain in the rear end. Dunno if that's what we're looking at, but yeah....I hate that poo poo. I put a big canister water filter just past the well pump so I could fill it with peroxide, run hot+cold out of every tap in the house until I could smell it, and the let it sit in the pipes for 20 minutes. Then you flush out this godawful mixture of peroxide bubbles and black death (take the aerators off!) and everything good for another several months. Motronic fucked around with this message at 00:32 on Nov 9, 2020 |
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Nov 8, 2020 19:38
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Jenkl posted:Guess who misjudged the thickness of his subfloor and has two small children holes in his hardwood from screwing upwards? Absolutely. You may even be able to find it color matched. This is totally a "go to your local hardware store, if you don't have one box store, and find the oldest dude there and ask". E: you're probalby going to be looking at something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Color-Putty-Company-124-3-68-Ounce/dp/B002YC9RQ0?th=1 But there are a ton of options and a very practical one will be available to you locally for probably under $10. You will then be the ONLY person who ever notices the holes again. Motronic fucked around with this message at 00:37 on Nov 9, 2020 |
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Nov 9, 2020 00:33
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C-Euro posted:Any tips on how to loosen the valve on my toilet's water intake line? Trying to install a bidet and I should probably shut off the water before I add the bidet line on. Turn off the water to your house and do it. If you have to try that hard with tools it's already busted. So plan on replacing the valve and have the parts on hand. This is what happenes with almost all of them because they don't get moved like...ever. Replace it with a nice quality quarter turn that will have a better chance of surviving this absolutely common and normal level of abuse.
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Nov 9, 2020 04:26
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mr.belowaverage posted:I can see that argument, but it’s just dumped on the existing grade, which is basically flat all around the house. Does it count as proper slope when you just put a mound of dirt up against the house? Yeah. What do you think "grade" is? No doubt the part of the pile against the house is however deep code says it needs to be to make the slope back down to grade required. What you're looking at is below average work quality. Potentially average depending on the area.
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Nov 10, 2020 16:03
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Jenkl posted:That's in the list (after my sneaky typo edit...) You can literally cut through metal or stone with a proper oscillating multitool and the correct blade. Something's not right if you're saying you've tried one and it didn't work. This is either a tool, bit or technique problem.
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Nov 12, 2020 16:43
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Jenkl posted:Ive used the osc. multi-tool w/ scraper. Its what I used to get the majority of it off. The uneven concrete makes some spots impossible to get to with the scraper - can't get it flush. It's also pretty rough on the aluminum trim - but I'm not nearly as concerned as that since it'll be covered by new caulk so scrapes aren't an issue. Not knowing/seeing exactly what you're talking about and exactly what you tried I'm reluctant to give you any suggestions. But I just can't imagine a situation where this wouldn't work with the proper technique, which probably doesn't involve cutting concrete. DrBouvenstein posted:Man, I'm like 99% certain that bacteria is in my entire town's water supply. Yeah, if you're trying to get it out of your pipes. Also keep in mind you probably shouldn't be doing this on the hot side if you have any kind of water heater with a tank until/unless you build a bypass around that tank. My old place was tankless (combination heat and DHW coil in an oil burner). Water tests are pretty cheap. You should probably get one and see what's actually in there. Also compare it to what should be periodic publicly available waters tests from your supplier to see if there are significant differences (indicating a distribution problem).
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Nov 12, 2020 18:54
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DrBouvenstein posted:Thanks. Yeah, if it's what that article says that's not in your pipes. Mine is very obviously in the well and showed up as such on the water test that I had done......10+ years ago that I obviously can't find or even remember the scientific name of the actual bacteria.
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Nov 12, 2020 19:45
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Skinnymansbeerbelly posted:The bulge is on one of the studs, so would opening up bays on both sides be appropriate? My assumption was that everything from valve to floor is hosed already. So, would a ~36" wide x 50" tall cut be about right? It's gonna be what it's gonna be and nobody can tell you what that is without being there. You need to figure out the extent of the damage/wet drywall and go past that. If that ends up being a sheet ot even two sheets of drywall that's what it is and there's no way around it. If the ends up being too big of a job for you, that's also okay. You're not doing anything that doesn't need to be done by taking down the wet drywall. In fact you're doing yourself a favor to get things dried out as quickly as possible.
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Nov 13, 2020 21:23
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nwin posted:I’m renting this place and the landlord is in another state so I’m trying to ask all the right questions and look at all the possibilities. I’m not paying for the work to be done but I also don’t want to tell him the problem is “x” when in reality the problem is “x” and “y”. You should be telling him that the problem is the basement is flooding. Full stop. You are renting.
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Nov 14, 2020 19:45
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nwin posted:But if he’s asking me to hire someone and look at it Then you tell him you can't do that because you are not a general contractor. He needs to make the property you are renting correct and needs to do it on his own with your only input being to provide reasonable access for contractor as required.
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Nov 14, 2020 20:51
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nwin posted:Yeah the guy cares about his lawn and was glad I brought it up. At first he said “let me know if it keeps up. I’m willing to throw $400 on someone to do some digging” So he also has unreasonable expectations about what work costs. That should inform your decisions going forward. nwin posted:The main issue it’s creating for me is I’m responsible for lawn maintenance. When it’s this wet, the lawnmower is just tearing up all the grass even if it goes a week without raining. Perfect. Tell him you can't do what you agreed to because his property is deficient.
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Nov 14, 2020 21:49
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Jenkl posted:Does a pressure treated bottom plate on concrete in a basement need to have its end treated if cut? No, and no part of it should be touching the concrete anyway including the sides. You should have a sill gasket the entire way along. While we're doing building 101 class, please make sure you aren't putting anything other than corrosion resistant fasteners into this PT lubmer. Hot dipped zinc, galvanized, stainless....... And not just how you're fastening the plate to the floor. This is also how you fasten the studs to them. I've seen entirely too many basement partition walls that are basically not connected anymore because of idiot contractors using the wrong fasteners. Motronic fucked around with this message at 04:13 on Nov 15, 2020 |
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Nov 15, 2020 04:07
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Are the ends of that paneling sitting directly on bare concrete? I bet they are and that's your answer as to what's causing it.
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Nov 15, 2020 20:19
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DrBouvenstein posted:Wait...you people live places where you can leave loose leaves on the curb and they get picked up? drat...we have to bag them, here. All the munis around here bought leaf vac trailers decades ago. It's simply too wooded to expect people to bag all the leaves they need to pick up.
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Nov 16, 2020 17:26
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redreader posted:IDK if this is the best place to ask, but I am looking for boxes for stuff. Clothes, books, etc. We're moving to a larger house in about 6 months and want to start packing stuff away and making space. We want to chuck away what we don't need and start packing the rest. This sounds like, at lest in pre-corona times, a Target/Home Depot/Lowes/whatever and check what's on sale for a few weeks kind of thing.
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Nov 18, 2020 02:11
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Yellow zinc is an electroplated fastener, not a hot dip and is not appropriate for outdoor use and I sure as hell wouldn't use them even indoors into pressure treated either. If the wall is still open replace and/or augment with something more appropriate. If it's not......don't kick the bottom of the wall and maybe it will stay attached with the drywall tape and mud.
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Nov 19, 2020 03:44
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Jenkl posted:Sucks but rather fix it now than deal with it later. Thanks. The walls are still open I've got a couple weeks before this would be unfixable. Oh perfect. Just go grab you some good stainless in the same size and make it happen. Future you will never even remember to thank now you, but future you would have been really pissed otherwise.
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Nov 19, 2020 04:17
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Slugworth posted:What the other guy said about cement board isn't wrong though. If you're using the fancy dancy schluter system, and installing it properly, they claim green board is fine, but if it were me, I'd still use cement board for the walls. If you're *not* using the schluter system, then you definitely need cement board on the walls. It's a 5 year bathroom in the making! OP's still got a chance to make this right. I'd suggest they take it.
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Nov 23, 2020 17:55
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HycoCam posted:I think others pointed this out--but none of that is going to work. Any of the walls inside the shower need to have: https://www.lowes.com/pd/DUROCK-Brand-0-5-in-x-36-in-x-60-in-Cement-Backer-Board/1000383889 cement board as the backer. And to make sure this poster understands: mortar and grout are not water tight. They are "waterproof" as in, not damaged by water. But they will allow water to pass through. This is normal and expected, and it evaporates out and around the water-impervious tiles and everything works: as long as there is a water impervious barrier somewhere behind the waterproof layers. Green board is not that.
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Nov 23, 2020 18:25
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Final Blog Entry posted:And this is the to the point response I needed to show my wife who insists it's fine for no other reason than she's picky about the color and temperature of light bulbs and she likes these ones. Former fire marshal checking in. I've investigated this cause and origin before. Don't be cheap. Buy the right stuff or do without. Or you'll be doing without your entire house. Motronic fucked around with this message at 03:21 on Nov 24, 2020 |
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Nov 24, 2020 02:37
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Final Blog Entry posted:Been there and done that a couple of years ago but the Reveal LEDs we've been using throughout the house are the ones that are buzzing bad in these fixtures. I'm gonna go grab 2 or 3 others tomorrow and hopefully find something that works decently and doesn't buzz. Either way the halogens are coming out Here's a good place to search for what good quality LED bulbs might be for what you need: https://www.1000bulbs.com/category/led-light-bulbs/ Not necessarily to buy them there (not always the cheapest), but they have a good search/filter system. I've been buying from them for a couple years now. They need to drop their shipping rates and things would be much better. Look for the temp you want or "halogen replacement" and look for a high CRI. Also be careful about what you buy if the bulbs are going into enclosures.....there is a choice for filtering enclosure rated.
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Nov 24, 2020 05:04
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Big Dick Cheney posted:You should sand with the grain right? How do you sand a floor with this pattern? You can still sand, but you want to pick the direction you would lay single-direction hardwood to sand in. So for example, it would be longways down a hallway, perpendicular to the main windows or entrance (focal point) in a room, etc.
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Nov 27, 2020 22:31
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