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I think I broached this topic a few months ago in the old thread, but I am looking at installing one of those gazebo kits from Costco. I have been redoing my backyard, and am at the stage where I have to pour footers, and therefore have to make a decision on if I'm actually getting it. The gazebo is made of cedar, not ancient heartwood or anything like that, and its not pressure treated as far as I know. The posts are a true 6"x9" and hollow in the center. They are anchored to the footing with brackets. See image from footing document: I plan on pouring the footings so they sit slightly above the paver patio surface. I do not plan on burying the posts below the paver level. My concern is if the bracket creates enough separation from the concrete to prevent rot. There is not any type of standoff to raise it higher, and I can't find any conventional post bases that would fit the true 6"x9" size. I have seen them for 6x6 rough sawn, but I feel like that would leave the ends hanging off the sides. I don't predict this will be a particularly wet location, as I live in Southern California, and the gazebo has a solid covered roof, and the posts are 7" in from the roof ends. Should I be concerned with the product as is?
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# ¿ Oct 19, 2020 20:58 |
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# ¿ Apr 27, 2024 02:40 |
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I know you don't want to remove concrete forms too early, but is it possible to leave them on for too long?
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# ¿ Oct 27, 2020 18:11 |
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I think there used to be an appliance thread, but I don't know where it is now. Can anyone recommend a dishwasher that doesn't have one of these? https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-W10083957-Chopper-Assembly-Dishwasher/dp/B005BNN3C8/ Despite washing my dishes before putting them in the dishwasher (), I have to disassemble this and clean it out every 3-6 months because it clogs up.
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# ¿ Oct 28, 2020 16:44 |
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H110Hawk posted:For some reason the Amazon link is freezing up on my phone, but if it's the strainer I think they all have them. If you are literally washing your dishes with soap and water the place to put them is the cabinet not the dishwasher. Otherwise whatever lipids and other crud are always going to get caught up in the strainer and requiring periodic cleaning. It should be easy to do, is there more disassembly than what amounts to a quarter turn in the basin? 1. Remove top and bottom tray. 2. Unscrew and remove bottom spray arm assembly. 3. Remove piping that leads to top sprayer. 4. Remove 4 torx screws that hold in the bottom strainer. 5. Remove bottom strainer. 6. Reach into a hole in the center of the the bottom of the dishwasher and remove a torx screw on the chopper cover. 7. Use needle nose pliers to remove screw that fell into a crevice. 8. Remove chopper cover. 9. Remove chopper. 10. Clean or replace chopper. 11. Reassembly is reverse of disassembly. 12. Chopper does not line up with the slot in the chopper cover. 13. Get yelled at by your wife for cursing in front of the kids.
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# ¿ Oct 28, 2020 17:14 |
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gently caress this poo poo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dmoTHPU0geU Look how loving easy this Bosch is goddamn https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GJFhqUn2Fs0 I am so angry about having to do this so often I am willing to spend inordinate amounts of money on a luxury dishwasher.
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# ¿ Oct 28, 2020 17:38 |
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Anyone know what that part is called? Some kind of pipe from the fuel tank to the air intake. The plastic part on the fuel tank broke.
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# ¿ Nov 13, 2020 19:29 |
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Elviscat posted:
Thanks that was enough to find the part. OSU_Matthew posted:I just had some new concrete poured, but I guess there was a miscommunication and now there’s a bowl shaped depression around my curb water shutoff. Now every time it rains, water fills the bowl where it can’t drain. Pic? I don't think that's supposed to be covered.
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# ¿ Nov 13, 2020 23:07 |
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We had Home Depot deliver a whole bunch of paver bricks. We used an online tool to estimate the amount for the pattern and square footage, and then I added 10% for waste and broken bricks. Somehow that ended up with a lot more than 10% extra. Will Home Depot come pick up a pallet of bricks to return? I can't seem to find and answer online and I'd rather make a post than call them. I'd have to make a couple of trips to return them myself, which sounds like a pain in the rear end after spending the last two days laying pavers.
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# ¿ Nov 29, 2020 01:48 |
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Anyone know how much class 2 road/paver base compacts? I saw 25% somewhere?
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# ¿ Jan 8, 2021 04:10 |
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OSU_Matthew posted:Enough that I what I’d picked up a plate compactor instead of doing it by hand all summer long I have a plate compactor, I just need to know how deep it should be before I get to my compacted depth.
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# ¿ Jan 8, 2021 05:05 |
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tangy yet delightful posted:Any goons recs on a nylon(?) brush to chuck into a power drill to clean shower tile/grout lines? And also what cleaning liquid to use, just tilex? I've had good luck with a hydrogen peroxide based cleaner and just letting it sit. That was on the floor though. I think you can also do the same with a bleach gel and just trace out the lines.
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# ¿ Jan 9, 2021 04:53 |
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Big Dick Cheney posted:Just got a kerosene heater for my wood shop. Is there anyway to avoid spending $10 a gallon on K-1 kerosene? Is gas station kerosene really not an option? Any other way to lower the cost to run this thing? I thought gas stations typically sold K-1 kerosene.
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# ¿ Jan 20, 2021 23:58 |
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life is killing me posted:I’ve never been to a gas station that sold kerosene, or I had no idea that any gas stations sold kerosene, can pick which I guess. I'd say it's a little more rare than the gas stations that sell propane, but I guess it depends on where you live. wesleywillis posted:Diesel and Kerosene are very similar. That sounds like it would create a lot of soot. When I was four or five years old, my parents used a kerosene heater in our basement before eventually getting a wood stove. I remember them getting the kerosene at a gas station, and they're not the type of people who would use something that would be detrimental to the house or people in it - at least by 1980s standards. The last time I used a kerosene heater was almost 20 years ago in a very well ventilated trailer used as an office at a paintball field. Those people were definitely the type who would use something detrimental, but absolutely used the clean fuel.
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# ¿ Jan 22, 2021 16:56 |
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Is there a solar thread? I didn't see one. I live in Southern California and have a fairly large southern facing roof, which seems ideal for solar production. However my electric bill is fairly low - about $100 a month average. This may be relevant, I have a shingle roof with two layers of shingles, the newest layer being six years old. I'm not into the solar leases at all. That said, I'm not sure if it's worth buying them outright. It's a pretty large investment. It's hard to find any math that isn't a sales pitch. Are there any good resources on this?
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# ¿ Feb 3, 2021 05:13 |
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LLSix posted:I have an odd question, but I figure if anyone knows the answer, it'll be one of you goons. Are there good shows or youtube channels for DIY/gardening/outdoor survival? The least crazy guy from Dual Survival https://youtube.com/c/DavidCanterbury Really sincere cowboy guy cooking https://youtube.com/c/CowboyKentRollins Everything you need to know about tile showers https://youtube.com/user/StarrTile Everything you need to know about stucco https://youtube.com/c/StuccoPlastering
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# ¿ Feb 5, 2021 07:54 |
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AFewBricksShy posted:Replace it with caulk to match your grout. Important.
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# ¿ Feb 5, 2021 18:15 |
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I would untangle that antenna wire, or throw it all out if you're not using the antenna. Then I would throw out those boards if you're not going to use the attic for storage space. Then I would insulate to R40 to R60 depending where you live. In several of those photos, you have what the professionals call "literally no insulation." Also I would suggest you call a professional. Installing insulation isn't complicated, but it is the most miserable job. Pay someone else to go crawling through there.
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# ¿ Feb 6, 2021 16:33 |
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floWenoL posted:Nope, no lever! I took off the tub overflow plate a while ago and didn't see anything a lever would attach to, but I'll double-check. Does your drain have a black/grey plate at the bottom inside, or is that literally raw sewage?
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# ¿ Feb 9, 2021 21:05 |
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floWenoL posted:That's not a plate, that's a sharp bend in the drain pipe itself (AFAICT). I'm guessing it's a fairly old pipe, which is why the texture is so rough and the color is so dark. I've verified that it's not raw sewage. :P The picture makes it look extremely close to the surface, like its about to overflow.
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# ¿ Feb 10, 2021 18:46 |
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I imagine that asking in this thread they're for work, not for fashion. What type of work? Indoor? Outdoor? Ladders? Wet? Dry? The guy from the Rose Anvil youtube channel put Redback boots as the most comfortable. I mean if you want to go down a hole of an expert cobbler cutting boots in half and describing how they're made and ranking them on quality, that's the place. edit- don't get "heritage" boots unless you're a fashion weirdo. They're horribly uncomfortable compared to modern materials, even after break-in. My brother works for Red Wing and says no one who actually works for a living buys those. FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 15:56 on Feb 12, 2021 |
# ¿ Feb 12, 2021 15:49 |
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The people at the job site will hate you more if you're an office schlub with nicer boots than them. According to my brother: Top selling at Redwing are the 4420 Logger boots because short insecure dudes. Most comfortable are going to be any of the Supersole 2.0 If you're just going to the job site once a month or whatever, get what you think looks cool and are comfortable.
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# ¿ Feb 12, 2021 16:33 |
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I have a pair of Blundstones which are fine multipurpose light duty. You can usually find them in the $130 to $200 range. Price varies on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Y0BBG8/
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# ¿ Feb 12, 2021 17:01 |
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I have a pair of Timberland Pro steel toes, and the boots are fine, but the steel toe box is not as wide as I would like, and the treads are mud magnets. And they weigh about 50lbs each.
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# ¿ Feb 12, 2021 18:45 |
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GD_American posted:Question- I have an undercabinet microwave above my range that has a lovely recirc blower. If I wanted to rip this microwave out (we're fine with a small countertop one instead) and put in an actual ducted hood, I'm running into a couple of issues: Yes
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# ¿ Feb 16, 2021 20:20 |
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fankey posted:I have plain rectangular painted molding over hardwood. There is a gap that varies from about 1/16” to 1/8”. Previously I filled the gap using DAP painters latex caulk masking with blue tape. The results were so so - over a couple of years it started to crack and separate and looked messy. Don't look at the floor, everyone's is like that. Wood expands and contracts with the seasons, you aren't going to be able to secure it to the floor.
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# ¿ Feb 22, 2021 21:31 |
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Shouldn't you have a drain or like a floor drain in case that pot filler goes crazy? Do they make 220 volt GFCI outlets?
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# ¿ Feb 26, 2021 07:18 |
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You fill the pot, you gotta empty the pot. You're carrying a pot full of water somewhere either way. I don't understand why you need one at the stove unless you're running a commercial kitchen.
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# ¿ Feb 26, 2021 19:48 |
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I'm building one of those cedar playhouses from Costco for my kid this weekend. I want to get 10 years out of it if possible, so I'm concerned about direct ground contact. My wife thinks I'm overthinking this (I am, its what I do). How long can I expect it to be safe without additional effort? I was thinking of just laying a line of pavers around the base to keep it off the dirt/grass, or even a course of 3/4 gravel a few inches wide. I was also considering painting the bottom with copper green.
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# ¿ Mar 18, 2021 20:45 |
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Less Fat Luke posted:Is there any trick to getting this drain cap off? I removed the two screws but every attempt with pliers just warps and scratches the metal. Jam a screwdriver you don't like into a hole and pry it up. Use a block of wood for a pivot point if necessary to not damage the tile. That cap looks like its sealed in, you're probably going to bend or break it.
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# ¿ Mar 19, 2021 20:05 |
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Probably would have to remove the grout around the drain cover. I do not know what the preference is for grout vs caulk in that spot, but the cover shouldn't be permanently sealed in.
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# ¿ Mar 19, 2021 20:38 |
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:There was one of these in my yard when I bought the house. I think it's going on about year 7 now, and it's completely falling apart. Not from the ground up, surprisingly. Just in general, these are just so cheaply made that they disintegrate. I think mine was from Lowes, but same thing I'm sure. Yeah it's a little disconcerting that it's only anchored to the ground with a 13-in spike on each corner, but I'm not about to pour footings. Maybe upgrade to 2 foot rebar. It's going in the middle of the grass I just don't want it to rot away prematurely.
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# ¿ Mar 19, 2021 21:21 |
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Wasabi the J posted:If it's a wood playset, I would think applying deck sealer it would extend the life of the wood. Oh yeah it's treated from the factory, and they recommend resealing it yearly.
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# ¿ Mar 20, 2021 02:17 |
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:There was one of these in my yard when I bought the house. I think it's going on about year 7 now, and it's completely falling apart. Not from the ground up, surprisingly. Just in general, these are just so cheaply made that they disintegrate. I think mine was from Lowes, but same thing I'm sure. Hoo boy, that is not a joke. They are for real about the recommended 120 lb weight limits. I'm about 100 lbs over and these boards are flexing and creaking under my weight. I can see how it might fall apart - this wood cracks really easily if you don't predrill everything. Anyway, went with a paver brick foundation- And painted the bottom area that touches the brick with copper green. Still need to finish the roof
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# ¿ Mar 22, 2021 05:29 |
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Paul MaudDib posted:I'm in the process of waging war on cable clutter in my home office. I'm planning to mount my monitor on a gas arm and then I was thinking of running cables from the basement. So to do it right I need some kind of "cable gland" for the drywall I think. You want a low voltage bracket. Its basically just a frame that attaches to the drywall. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-1-Gang-Non-Metallic-Low-Voltage-Old-Work-Bracket-SC100RR/100160916 edit- They're also listed in the related items on your amazon link. FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 18:10 on Mar 24, 2021 |
# ¿ Mar 24, 2021 18:06 |
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Charles Ingalls posted:other ideas? Ikea
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# ¿ Mar 25, 2021 17:24 |
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I broke a hex bolt and need to replace it but it's an odd size (3/8 x 9.5"). Is threaded rod an acceptable substitute?
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# ¿ Mar 28, 2021 04:25 |
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Cross beam on a gazebo. It goes horizontally through the beam through the post. There is also a lag bolt into the post just below it. Edit: I mean I'm going to get the replacement part, but I want to finish building this thing and not wait for it, so whatever it would be would be temporary. I did try a 10-in carriage bolt, however the wood is cedar and it is the softest wood that was ever made. I used one of those carriage bolt washers that bites into the wood, and it tore it up when I was torquing the nut. I think the issue there was that I was using the lock nut that came with the hex bolt, and it reached the end of the lock nut before it tightened down to the wood. I think I can use a regular nut with a lock washer without blowing out the wood. FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 05:24 on Mar 28, 2021 |
# ¿ Mar 28, 2021 04:49 |
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Do the big home stores color match exterior wood stain and do custom mixes?
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# ¿ Apr 11, 2021 16:08 |
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Jerk McJerkface posted:In my experience they are supposed to but the workers typical won't do it for some reason. Is there a place that does?
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# ¿ Apr 11, 2021 16:51 |
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# ¿ Apr 27, 2024 02:40 |
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DrBouvenstein posted:I'd like to have it right now as just regular grass. I might put some raised beds for fruits/veggies in there next year, but right now I've got enough space for my garden plans in my beds in the backyard. You're going to need an insecticide as well. Your dead spots are likely due to grub infestation. I would go scorched earth with weed killer and an insecticide that kills grubs underground. Then you're going to want to do something to loosen up the soil and dethatch. Then you're going to want to aerate the soil and make any amendments to improve the soil health. Level out the low spots and go over those areas with a lawn roller to make sure that they don't sink again if you leave the soil too loose. It's also important to make sure you're watering is even and adequate. Then you can seed. You going to want something to cover the seed to keep it moist, whether that's a topsoil made for seeding, or you can use peat moss (this will not acidify your soil don't believe the hype.) And you want to baby the seeds and keep them damp but not too wet. It will take 10 days for them to germinate. Then you will baby them some more for another 2 to 3 weeks until they become large enough to mow. At some point in there you'll want to use a starter fertilizer before graduating to a grown up fertilizer. Ultimately it's probably less work to lay new sod. zenintrude posted:So I just decided to rip of my back “lawn” that was dead grass and weeds and this is where I’m at now: St. Augustine is basically a weed, but slightly less heinous than Bermuda grass. Many people just do plugs and it takes over everything. Just level it out, get your watering in order if you got a sprinkler system, and make any soil amendments you think you might need. Rent a lawn roller. They're like 20 bucks for the day. After you level out your soil, go over it with the roller and that will even everything out and compact it just enough. Put down a starter fertilizer on the soil. Lay your sod. Go over the side with the roller. This will flatten it out and remove any potential air bubbles underneath. Water heavily for the next two weeks. Please note that the sod from the sod farms comes loaded up with so much fertilizer that it will grow like crazy and you'll be mowing twice a week for the next few months after it's established. FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 04:44 on Apr 17, 2021 |
# ¿ Apr 17, 2021 04:36 |