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Agrikk posted:The thing is, I'm tempted. I know next to nothing about rebuilding a car, other than googling for parts and reading car-building blogs, so I'd have to find a place that would do it for me, but it would be kind of awesome to get the engine rebuilt, fuel-injection, stiffer suspension, new brakes, new interior, replace the three-speed with a five-speed, etc... You know, get a car for free and then spend $30,000 (?) to make it run well. are you interested in learning? if you have somewhere to stash the car while you tinker on it, that would be the best of both worlds. you gotta start somewhere. even if you aren't interested in getting grease under your fingernails, pomp has the right idea; you don't have to trick it out from the get go. it can be a rolling restoration. bolind posted:Are you going to kick yourself in two years if you turn down the offer? this is the big one, though. if you would regret it more than a little bit, isn't it worth the few hundred bucks to go get it, and see what you're getting into?
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Oct 26, 2020 12:09
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Agrikk posted:These are all good questions to ask myself. Cousin has stated that if I don't take it it will sit in her garage under a tarp so I suppose there is no hurry. And as much as I'd like to take this on myself, I already have too many hobbies that family life is taking me from, so building a car myself, while soooo much fun, isn't in the cards. if it's already mostly running and you can just change one thing at a time while you otherwise drive it, that makes it all much more doable sounds like you arent out much by taking a look, once long distance travel is a thing again
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Oct 29, 2020 05:27
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Agrikk posted:My cousin sent me the VIN and when I looked it up it's a 1970 Ford Torino with a 302 V8 built in San Jose, CA. Nice, my truck is from the same plant. It's actually in Milpitas, but Milpitas didn't exist back then so it was just sorta near San Jose. It's a mall now, but the cool thing is that they preserved the original building instead of knocking it down, so it still has sort of an industrial look to it. I like the '70 Torino; it's got sort of an Aus Falcon look to it. Post pics when you go take a look at it!
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Nov 11, 2020 05:39
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In California, you write the sale amount on the paperwork, and you are taxed some amount based on it. There is an option for a gift, but I think it is only for immediate family members. I think they use bluebook value if your sale number is too low (or zero). You can always make up a number, like $700-1000, that sounds reasonable for an "old junk car" and they won't question it. I have a friend who legitimately bought a car for $1 and was hassled at the DMV over putting that down, though. I don't know how this works for out of state sales. If it's going to be your daily driver (which it sounds like it isn't, but this is what I'm most familiar with) it's insured based on what the insurance company thinks it's worth, which as you point out, is nowhere near what the car will actually be worth if it's restored or modified. There are collectors insurance companies, such as Hagerty, which is accustomed to this kind of thing. They won't have a problem with you listing your high dollar modifications and setting a declared value based on them. The downside is that they require that the car is garaged, and that you have another car as your daily driver. I think there are mileage limitations to ensure that you aren't using it as your primary vehicle. I've never done this, but I think others here (IOC's '70 C10, for example) have used Hagerty for their classics before.
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Nov 12, 2020 02:10
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I own nothing but classics, and they're just insured like normal cars. They're not worth enough to worry about more than liability, so there's that. I'd suggest insuring it with just liability until you get it all built up and have some real money into it, like you were talking about. You're going to be driving it like a normal car, so I don't see what's wrong with insuring it as such.
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Jan 14, 2021 05:49
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LloydDobler posted:This is where we get back to having a separate daily and only driving this occasionally. If he takes our advice on that, then Not all of our advice 
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Jan 17, 2021 21:50
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Applebees Appetizer posted:That's a hell of a lot of money for just a rear disc conversion, Jesus. If he was upgrading the entire rear end with that maybe. don't put garbage shocks on it though. get some nice modern monotubes, especially if you're going to put stiffer springs in it later. KYBs are fine for stock replacement, but if you want something sporty, they... arent does fox/ridetech make anything for that car? they're probably the best "high end consumer / low end racing" brand in terms of bang for buck imo
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Mar 9, 2021 23:02
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Applebees Appetizer posted:KYB are just fine tho unless he plans on putting a modern suspension on it and turning it into a restomod, then yeah monotubes are in order. Monotubes would be a waste of money on the stock oxcart suspension imo. imo buy once, though. if he's got all original suspension with rotted bushings, bad geometry, and drum brakes, putting in a swank set of shocks isn't going to make it handle worse. and then he'll already have the good parts later when he goes to overhaul the rest of it but if it doesn't need shocks right now, don't mess with em id just drive it until you're ready to have it apart in your driveway for a couple weekends, where you can do the whole front end at once
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Mar 10, 2021 08:43
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hell yeah, this thread owns. stoked to see four pedals (ish, three plus stub). when you fix the heater you'll fix the defroster, so i would just punt on it and not drive it in the rain until then. no sense in spending extra time and money making a bodge fix you're gonna un-bodge at your next wrenching opportunity if the brakes are that terrible, maybe they aren't working properly? all of my vehicles still have their original drums, and they work fine. not great, but it's not scary unless you drive through standing water (which you shouldnt). especially in the wet, i would expect it to be pretty easy to lock up the brakes
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Nov 3, 2021 06:44
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just as a sanity check, have you tried all of the fan switch positions? typically, "high" is a direct 12V connection to the fan, and the lesser speeds go through a resistor to lower the current and thus the fan speed. In lots of old cars (including mine, lol) the resistor burns out, but the high speed still works. if yours is like that, you probably just have to replace the resistor, which may be a part of the switch or may be a separate part. if not, as darchangel said, check to see if you're getting voltage at the fan and work backwards from there
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Nov 4, 2021 04:24
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personally i think a carb of modern manufacture (so it has no problem with modern gas, and theres not tons of leaky play in all the shafts) and a solid-state distributor (pertronix, msd, mallory, whatever) will cure most of the hassles but also not be "too modern" if that's a concern. that stuff isn't cheap either, though, so it might not actually be much less than just getting an EFI kit that does everything
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Dec 4, 2021 08:00
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| # ¿ Apr 26, 2024 04:56 |
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it's a windsor motor, right? there are basically an unlimited number of these around, and in junkyards. what i would probably do is go to a pick n pull, wander the yard (you'll probably have the most luck with trucks), and look at how the factory set them up. the old chevys ive seen usually have the power steering on the inner belt, and the alt/wp on the outer one. so if that's the way they mostly are, maybe you could get all the accessory brackets and pulleys off the same motor for a small amount of money and you'd be fairly certain they'd all work together. that looks like a GM power steering pump you have there, though, so maybe you'll have to take your friend up on a custom spacer for that one to get it to line up. idk how similar that alternator is to later ones, though. maybe it would be too much of a project to upgrade to a later alt at the same time, if yours won't fit the newer bracketry. maybe you'll get lucky and you can just swap the pulleys.
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Jul 29, 2023 22:25
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