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Welp it's canceled officially. Postponed, actually, but since nobody knows what's going on and when it'll be over... Not like there was any choice since it wouldn't be legal to enter some of the regions. So sorry about lack of exciting go-fast mods or action updates in the near future. Instead I'll take care of the more boring stuff. Here's the new to-do list, hopefully all but the last two could be done tomorrow or Saturday.
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Feb 26, 2021 01:15
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Not a great update, just had one opportunity to drive around when the weather was a bit nicer and with the window down it sounds like the CV joint might be hosed. https://i.imgur.com/cCuhSED.mp4 (sound) Can't be anything else, right? I guess it's a good thing I'll be taking the front suspension apart anyway.
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Mar 7, 2021 22:31
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Some good news, the wheel hasn't fallen off and the airbag hasn't killed me:  Took it to Honda for the recall work, probably the first and last time this car saw a dealership. It still shows up as uncompleted online so hopefully it just takes some time to show up in the system, and they didn't just pretend to do it.  Cleaned up and hit with anti-corrosion primer some of the rust in the only place it's visible on the car, which is in itself pretty spectacular. But there's definitely more of it there, I'll need to take off the wheel arch trim and dig in when there's more time.  Made a cap for the wiper arm, very important. https://i.imgur.com/Gm7kKUw.mp4 Gearbox oil was full, unfortunately, so there's no easy fix for the noise and I'll probably have to pull it. But having spend some time under the car, it looks like it might be possible to remove the back casing of the gearbox without decoupling the bellhousing from the engine. Then just pull the bearing and reinstall. There's quite a bit of space there if you removed some of the suspension, but on the other hand, I've no idea how realistic it would be to reassemble the gearbox in the air, horizontally. Probably not at all 
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Mar 12, 2021 22:10
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Boring but major update. A friend of mine had an empty garage over the Easter holidays with a fixed scissor lift, so I decided to do the bearing while we're still in lockdown and the weather sucks. The nuts were almost fused with the driveshaft with rust and I had to mess them up pretty badly, but they came off with a breaker bar and pipe extension. Came out of the hubs pretty easily thankfully. Most instructions call for removing the balljoint but I managed to pull the shafts without removing it or the arb end links by removing the two bolts from the strut and wiggling  Managed to remove everything short of the actual trans mounts and VSS (as always, the connector won't budge no matter how much I press the little tab), and decided to call it a day while My dad volunteered to help which was great but by the time I picked him up, it was almost noon and he wanted to pack it in at around 6. So tomorrow it should be easy, just remove the mounts and the 5 or so bolts holding it to the engine. Right??  Well, uh, hopefully it'll be ok to do just the 3 not-rusty bolts because I really don't want to touch that mess. The starter also doesn't look great so hopefully it can stay in place.  The front main seal might be leaking but I don't have a new one, though I de the belt.  This is by far the biggest job I tried to DIY but so far this wasn't too bad. A more powerful impact gun and an electric ratchet could've saved quite a lot of time. Anyway, tomorrow I hope to have it out before noon tomorrow and put everything back by EOD since we won't have to fight rusty fasteners on the way back. Eric the car guy has a video on replacing the main shaft bearing in a civic tranny which looks identical and it seems pretty straightforward (famous last words )
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Apr 3, 2021 21:22
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Goonspeed! One of the strut nuts on my rusty Fit was pretty well seized and an Allen wrench had no hope of holding it in place after a few attempts at loosening the thing. That board trick may have helped, but in my case, I was able to take an angle grinder and carefully cut enough so I could take a chisel to the top. I was replacing the whole assembly, but it's an option if nothing else pans out there. All that rust sure brings back some good memories though.
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Apr 3, 2021 21:52
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nitsuga posted:Goonspeed! One of the strut nuts on my rusty Fit was pretty well seized and an Allen wrench had no hope of holding it in place after a few attempts at loosening the thing. That board trick may have helped, but in my case, I was able to take an angle grinder and carefully cut enough so I could take a chisel to the top. I was replacing the whole assembly, but it's an option if nothing else pans out there. Of course the anti roll bar end links made up for it. I still have no idea how that nut could just... not come off. Anyway I do have an angle grinder and new one that I'll put in if we can finish the gearbox stuff reasonably quickly. E: one question. I watched Eric's video again. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yRRZUgoSzf4&t=1134s). How do I make sure I put in the shafts back in correctly? I assumed you'd put them in the neutral state but he just kind of wiggles them until spinning the input shaft turns the diff too. mobby_6kl fucked around with this message at 23:43 on Apr 3, 2021 |
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Apr 3, 2021 22:25
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Well today was a bust more or less. We had the engine supported with a jack but since there was an engine hoist available it left more open space underneath. Disconnected most transmission mounts without much problems. Except the rusty fucker of course. To avoid touchig it I tried to disconnect the bracket from the transmission instead. Two bolts came off easily with an impact, but the top one had to be taken off manually and started stripping since you couldn't get to it at a reasonable angle. So so gave the rusty mount a go.  One came off after fight, the left one came about halfway out with the impact gun before getting stuck. It didn't even take much pressure with the ratchet and the captive nut broke off inside. Will have to deal with this at some point.  Eventually we got the last shiny bolt off the bracket. That was that, but unfortunately the gearbox just wouldn't separate.  That's as much clearance we could get no matter what. Not even enough to get a pry bar in. It seemed like something was holding it at the top somewhere, but I like quadruple checked that everything was removed. As far as I can tell there are 6 bolts total and I have them: 
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Apr 4, 2021 21:18
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It's loving done, finally. The day after the last post I had to ask my friend for help separating the transmission. It just wouldn't move more than a mm. He undid the lower engine/trans mount completely and started hitting the bellhousing with a huge hammer until it finally separated. If I knew violence was the solution I could've done it myself  The dowel pin by the differential was completely rusted somehow, which explains why it was so stuck.After a short delay caused by forgetting to undo one of the bolts on the transmission like an idiot, it popped open. Pretty nasty layer of oil everywhere, I'm guessing the fluid was never changed in 200k km.  Undo exactly 2 bolts from the reverse idler gear and both shafts can be easily removed. Under the input shaft is the suspected source of this horrible noise:  It was a bit rough feeling but really not enough to explain that noise. On to the second input shaft bearing: https://i.imgur.com/89kPqbj.mp4  Well there's your problem. The balls are pitted pretty horribly. I don't know how much longer this could've lasted before things started really falling apart. Probably long enough if the rally took place in March but now I felt like I was driving it on borrowed time. I didn't have this bearing so had to order it for about $20 and wait a day. Other than that I suppose it was in pretty good condition for the distance it covered. Not much wear visible other than maybe on the 2nd (?) gear at the bottom right.  Somewhat surprising amount of wear by the ball detents, but far from actually being a problem.  Two days later I had the new bearing in hand so went over to install it. Had to heat up the casing from the outside to pull it with a seal remover. Weird since according to the manual it's part of the shaft assembly. I popped the new one on and put everything together in the reverse order. Spent like half an hour moving all the syncro collars to make sure they were switching gears correctly. Busted out my priceless loctite 518 sealant and put the case back on. It slid most of the way on, but not enough for the snap ring to go into the groove on the countershaft bearing. My big new bearing has to be pressed into the housing, right? So I started hammering it through rubber and wooden blocks until it seemed to be mostly seated. Started tightening the bolts a bit and... there's weird crunching sounds. gently caress. I removed everything and the transmission was now jammed and 5th/reverse wouldn't switch at all. Fuuuck. Poking at it for a bit, I finally got reverse to engage. This also let me start disassembling the shaft. Eventually I found the issue: somehow the 5th gear synchro hub and ring got misaligned (even though I didn't touch anything on the shafts) and I didn't notice it before re-assembly, so it got a bit crushed.  Ooops! Thankfully it seems like there was enough meat left to prevent the ring from spinning so I cleaned everything up, made super-certain that everything was seated properly, and easily put the case back together. Huh. We did the clutch and seal too, though probably unnecessarily, since it was aftermarket LuK (same as what I got) and had 7mm left, which is much closer to new (7.2-7.9) than to dead (5mm). There's $70 down the drain  Everything else was the reverse of removal. But first I had to do something with the broken trans mount nut. Thankfully the rail to which it was attached had a 10mm hole that matched up with a hole in the mount. $2 of threaded rod and nuts later, the solution is complete. Would TUV approve this? Probably not, but they won't see it, and if it's stupid and works, how stupid is it really?  Attaching all the bits and pieces took a few hours but the results are nothing short of amazing, if I can say so myself. This is before: https://i.imgur.com/C40o9Vp.mp4 for after, imagine there's no extra noise when releasing the pedal. Also it seems that some of what I thought was engine noise while driving under lead, disappeared as well. GD Jizz clutch pro-tips 1. Don't loving DIY unless there's a pandemic lockdown and you can't look at screens any more 2. On the suspension, just undo the damper pinch bolts (C), and it will be enough to tilt the hub sufficiently to get the driveshafts out without touching the sway bar end links or ball joints.  3. Leave the subframe alone, there's enough space to slide the transmission in/out. mobby_6kl fucked around with this message at 20:52 on Apr 11, 2021 |
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Apr 11, 2021 20:46
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I've been lurking in this thread for ages, I adore these cars. Is this the damage you're talking about on 2nd?:  It looks like quite a nasty pit but It's probably fine. If there were no odd wear marks on the faces of the mating gear then it's not doing any harm, it only starts being a problem when the teeth are eating each other and you just get a downward spiral of damage. I'm much more interested whether it's you or a PO that needs to learn to come to a complete stop before throwing it into reverse :
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Apr 11, 2021 21:16
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Actually I think I meant that about the low/reverse, sorry, exhausted posting  I don't remember seeing any actual damage on the meshing surfaces of the gears, there might've been some glare or contamination that I hopefully got rid of later. It could be a pit in which case I didn't notice it IRL. The reverse is totally PO's fault though I mean, I did grind it a bit on the test drive but only reversed maybe a couple of times since then. Actually before the rebuild it felt like it wouldn't go fully into reverse every time, it looks like it's in, you release the clutch and GRRRRRR. Hasn't happened since so far  It's a bummer that all the replacement parts are $$$ since you can only get transmission parts from Honda. Obviously it doesn't matter for this beater but if they sold this stuff for less than the car was worth I would've thrown it in too because I definitely don't like putting worn bits back in generally.
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Apr 12, 2021 13:43
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On any Honda, you always shift into 1st, THEN reverse.
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Apr 12, 2021 17:29
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Sorry, I'm a Mazda fanboy so all the rules of keeping Hondas from eating themselves news to me. And apparently to the PO. Although I see tons of people go into reverse/1st while still rolling in the opposite direction so it's possible they did that too. BTW, opening up the gearbox was really interesting, can recommend. It's pretty easy and you can immediately see how everything works. No amount of reading or youtube videos could do it for me. The loud clank of engaging reverse is now obviously because there's a giant bracket slamming the big, straight-cut gear down on the casing and hopefully engaging the others gears too. Anyway, the rally organizers announced a new date, in early May. So up next up is replacing the sway bar end links(s) since the left one is clunking horribly after our attempts to remove it for the lift kit failed. The grinder might need to come out because it's pretty determined to stay there. I also found a note that 4 spark plugs have been replaced recently, meaning 4 might as well be original still. And I'll probably do valve clearance as well since it's safe to assume nobody followed the schedule.
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Apr 12, 2021 18:08
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The sway bar end link is off I'm sure you could weld something to the bolt and get it the nut off eventually but considering I got a new end link for like $7, the grinder came out immediately once the bolt broke there and the allen key didn't stay inside. The bottom side was pretty well stuck too and didn't budge even after penetrating fluid and enough torch application to make the boot smoke on the other side. The new one is in and the noise is gone. While in there, I saw some grease on the suspension bits. Seems like the CV boot has a tiny slit somewhere in this area (on the wheel side obviously):  I think it got damaged when I was pushing it into the hub and the sharp edge of the clamp cut through the thick boot somehow. There's no huge gaping hole so hopefully it'll be possible to just glue it shut, because there's no way I'm taking it apart in the near future especially considering that there was some light clicking coming from this side so the whole thing might need to be replaced soon anyway. Another look at the EGR valve, the zip tie didn't really help keep the cap on, so the next step up is completed. Haven't tested it yet.   The fuel economy has been disappointing so far, but I chalked it up to winter conditions and driving it like I drive the miata. On the last ~30km trip, driving like a normal person, I hit 5.3l/100km or 44 mpg. The route was country roads through some villages, 50-90km/h, and some highway, below the limit at 110-120km/h. Still not amazing by modern standards considering it has like 80hp but better than my previous average of 7.5l or so.  Found this interesting chart which suggests it should get a bit better yet once temperatures are in double digits at least.  The friend whose garage I was using seems to be pissed off at me. He wouldn't tell me how much I should pay for it, so I gave him about as much as I used to pay for a garage near me (sans the quick-jack like lift) for a month for less than a week of usage and he was visibly upset. My fault for not demanding a number up front but when someone says "eh whatever you think is appropriate" seems like a "case of beer" situation and not "account for my actual and opportunity costs for me". Hopefully this is fixable because I'd hate to have ruined a relationship over this shitbox
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Apr 18, 2021 14:42
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mobby_6kl posted:Another look at the EGR valve, the zip tie didn't really help keep the cap on, so the next step up is completed. Haven't tested it yet. Ugh. Still no idea if it's a mechanical issue with the valve or electronic. Found the damage are on the CV boot. A little booger of grease collects on it and then gets flung and sticks to some suspension component.  I cleaned it as much as it was possible with some IPA, tried to get some glue inside and then glued a piece of tape over the top. Only drove it for about 30 minutes afterwards but it's holding up for now. 
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Apr 27, 2021 12:49
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Wouldn’t sweat the boot too much. The boots on my 93 wagon DD have been split wide open for years now. At this point I’m just trying to see how long they’ll go.
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Apr 27, 2021 13:55
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Thanks, good to know it won't just disintegrate the moment I go for a longer trip. I'm definitely not concerned enough to put a new $10 boot on, so this fix is about as much effort as I could justify
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Apr 27, 2021 14:58
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So the covid-safe version of the even took place this week. No real racing, just driving around inappropriate checkpoints all around the country, getting stuck, and camping because all hotels are closed. But the day before that:  Of course one headlight bulb died. I ordered a new one but got held up at work until the store closed. I could probably get one at any fuel pump but whatever, at least I have time to do a quick oil change since we'll be driving over 3000km in the coming days. Right?  But the drat filter just wouldn't come off. Not by hand, of course, it never does, but even this chain type wrench that I've used countless times on my miata before not only bent several times, but eventually just broke apart. Tried hammering it at the edge with a chisel, no good. I already drained the oil of course, so screw it, I'll just put the the new oil in and keep the filter for now. Except that by now I've done enough damange that some oil seeped through under pressure. Awesome! In the meantime it got dark and started to rain (doing this outside, at a nearby offoce parking lot of course). I didn't even have a philips screwdriver (that wasn't a bit) so had to hammer first a smaller and then a larger Torx driver in. Even then I just barely got it moving. I was laying in a pretty uncomfortable position due to low car height and spilled oil on the ground, so I just barely managed to get it moving with the larger screwdriver. And even half a revolution didn't loosen it significantly, and since there wasn't any space to keep turning the filter, I had to make another hole.  You motherfucker. On the upside, at least the replacement filter was the appropriate one. Let the car run for a few minutes and there were no leaks. Neither the filter nor the drain plug came off at any point so I'll count that as a win. The car did great. No serious issues during this preiod but
Edit: https://i.imgur.com/aoHcqS3.mp4 mobby_6kl fucked around with this message at 10:15 on May 10, 2021 |
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May 10, 2021 00:05
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I'm pretty sure the rear hatch on those Fits leaked like a sumbitch
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May 10, 2021 19:23
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:I'm pretty sure the rear hatch on those Fits leaked like a sumbitch Yeah it's pretty notorious actually, I remember RCR even bitching about it years ago: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LJ2uFkQqMug He complains about quality control but seems more defective or inappropriate sealant that eventually hardened too much and cracked. At first glance it didn't seem to be leaking so I focused on other issues instead, but this certainly explained the sloshing sound I heard at some points Anyway, it's supposed to rain the next couple of days so I tried to fix it now rather than bail out water later again later. As suggested in literature, there were cracks under the rubber gutter cover:  and all the way down too. It didn't actually look like that until I tried cleaning it with an old toothbrush.  I had some black silicone sealant on hand so a smeared a bunch of it all over the seams. Hopefully this will take care of the trunk, though the forums suggest a few other possible areas.  Didn't really want to touch the doors today but I left some paper towels in various areas to hopefully help track down the source if anything does leak in. mobby_6kl fucked around with this message at 17:44 on May 11, 2021 |
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May 11, 2021 17:42
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Hope it does the trick! The camping rally thing looked very fun.
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May 11, 2021 19:36
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Hope it does the trick! The camping rally thing looked very fun. Well it's been raining for two days straight, so about that.  At least with the car stationary, you can see where the water is entering from.  It's dripping along the seam but then goes behind the trim so you can't really tell where the origin is without removing all the plastic panels. Which I'm not doing while it's raining on me. Overall yeah it was pretty fun and unique experience. Im not a particularly outdoorsy type but it helps that this was the first time I got outside in like half a year at least. Since all official campsites were still closed so we had to improvise and set up camp in fields and crap. Once got approached by a farmer with an axe and a dog (a loving Yorkie lol) but he was cool.  It was raining the first couple of days so waking up in a swap kind of sucked but thankfully later it was just cold and windy. Unfortunately the checkpoints were such that you didn't have much time to chill anyway.
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May 13, 2021 20:32
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Looks like fun; what are the rules about where you can camp? Seems like over the last couple millennia most of the land would have moved to private ownership, right?
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May 15, 2021 06:44
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Yeah a lot of land is privately owned nowadays of course. However any forest, field or other nature has to be publicly accessible with the exception of built-up areas, gardens, backyards, etc. You'd probably need to be a lawyer to tell for sure what is and isn't legal, but generally you're allowed to sleep over anywhere that's publicly accessible (including privately owned fields or forests). Camping is more restricted and the difference is that "sleeping over" means you just have a mat and a sleeping bag for one night, and camping implies a tent, firepit, etc. in a more permanent setup. So this was definitely in a grey area because we always had a tent as it would be absolutely miserable otherwise, but never had an open fire or stayed for more than a night. So I think the outcome would also depend on the mood of whoever came to investigate, but we just generally tried to fly under the radar and GTFO first thing in the morning to avoid any discussions. I actually thought of just sleeping in the car as that would make things infinitely easier, but we packed was way too much crap to deal with to make that practical
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May 15, 2021 15:22
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Heh just noticed how incomprehensible the thread title has become Anyway, all's been well with the car, I've used it a few times for Ikea trips and to haul other crap. Of course that's until I was supposed to take a longer trip with it since the miata was too small (shocking). It's been super hot recently so I scheduled to have the AC refilled the day before the trip. The time comes and I have 30 minutes between meeting to get there and take the call. Get in, crank, it starts, and besides the CEL, the battery light also stays on. And doesn't blink or go away after a while, at any RPM. Fuuuuuck. Shut down, check battery terminals (clean but loose), tighten, start, same poo poo. The belt and pulley spins normally. I have a cigarette lighter USB charger with a voltmeter and it's showing 12.2v when running. At this point it's clear I won't be going anywhere (though the shop is close enough that I might've made it on battery alone) but I want to figure out more about what's going on, so I fetched the multimeter. Barely manage to squeeze my fingers through to remove the rubber boot from the positive terminal, and it also measures battery voltage (12.2 or so) with the car running. That's it, I then have meetings until like 5pm so I had about 30 minutes to find the right part and order it so that it's ready the next morning. Luckily there was store in town that had them at reasonable prices, because I usually have to wait 3+ days to get parts. Before going to sleep though, I realized it's better to take off as much stuff today as possible, since I'll be installing it in the morning before my normal working time. So there I am, undoing the EGR valve on the street in the middle of the night. There are two rusty studs that needed a bit more leverage so...  One nut came off, and the other stud came out of the head completely, which is even better. But when I removed the EGR valve, I saw that coolant was weeping from some of the passages. I'm sure it wouldn't all just leak out overnight, but I didn't want to risk it so put everything back on. Picked up the new alternator next morning within like 10 minutes of the store opening.  I found the c-clip pliers to be pretty good for undoing the plastic clips holding the EGR wiring to the brackets:  Then there are the two EGR studs, the nut came off this one, the other one isn't visible here  Then loosen the 3 bolts on this bracket to reduce the belt tension, no problems there.  Here's how I moved the EGR valve out of the way without undoing any hoses or clamps. But the fun part is actually getting to the 12mm bolt on bottom of the alternator. It took a long extension, into a short extension, into a u-joint, into a 1/2->3/8th (?) adapter. into a 12mm socket threaded through the various hoses, while reaching with the left hand to guide the socket onto the bolt, but it thankfully came out without too much of a fight.  I suspect if it were any tighter, I would've had to remove the airbox to get a better angle on the u-joint, but thankfully that wasn't needed. It might also be possible to reach it form below, but I was parked on an incline so... I removed the alternator bracket and belt, and after a lot of fighting with a prybar, the alternator came off its pivot point. It was then possible to rotate it enough to undo the connections.  And here's the trick for getting it in/out without removing the intake manifold as the service manual suggest:  The AC hose needs to be tucked in behind the washer filler neck, and at least the bottom EGR stud needs to be removed. The top one is visible here and doesn't get in the way. Then installation is then the opposite of removal. Tensioned the belt by just returning the tension bolt to the original position based on rust The belt itself had some cracking, and although I actually had a new one, I decided not to mess with it because it wasn't clear how I'd get the new one in properly since there was very little space to access all the other pulleys.Well that's it. It started fine and without the battery light and then drove perfectly fine about 500km including at v-max on the autobahn, it was just extremely hot. Here are the remaining known issues:
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Jun 24, 2021 20:24
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I needed this car again drive more people than fit in the miata again. On the way back, about 300km away from home, it started grinding horribly under braking. A quick check looked like the pads and disks were ok so I just avoided braking the rest of the way since it was night. Even though the pad looked like it has a ton of life left, the wear indicator was already touching the disk. Thankfully there's an easy solution :  Unfortunately I probably bent some of the slider thingies in the process so it was still grinding the next day https://i.imgur.com/cgxo8Yl.mp4 Ended up getting new pads and hardware for like $10. Also got a new CV axle just in case that's what the clicking is and it craps out somewhere but it's getting cold again so I don't want to ouch it if I don't have to.
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Sep 21, 2021 12:34
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Huh I guess I forgot to post the brake update. I put the new pads in and that resolved the grinding issue. The disks could probably also be replaced but eh. The good (but boring) news is that the EGR is finally fixed! I need to get the car inspected by the end of the month, and although I found a guy who'll get that done for a small fee, it's still better to actually resolve the issue. I also didn't want to just throw new parts at it as I thought it could be a wiring issue initially. The original code was P0403 EGR Valve Circuit Malfunction, but as I was fixing it, I also had P0405, P0406 and P0409 at different times. Basically, the initial problem was that the valve was completely seized. No amount of pulling or spraying carb cleaner did anything, so I had to force it open and hammer the valve out. This process also broke the connection between the valve body and the cap/connector.   The actual reason this repair was still causing other codes is that it doesn't really go back together properly. Maybe because of the new wires I soldered getting in the way, so there was a 1-1.5mm gap or so between the cap and the body. This caused the potentiometer to read values outside the range the car expects. Unfortunately nothing would clearly state what the correct resistance was supposed to be. If you look through the troubleshootign steps, it will tell you to: "Check the EGR VLS in the DATA LIST with the HDS. Is about 0.1 V or less indicated?" (DTC Troubleshooting: P0405 (12) (With ETCS)) Is this good or bad? What is the acceptable range under these conditions? You can kind of piece it together by going through several of these guides and all the steps, and it seems that with the ignition on and valve closed, the values at pin 3 (vale lift sensor) should be about >0.1v and <1.7v I measured it with a multimeter at the connector, and got 2.35v, which is too high. Why is it too high? The 5v reference is at 5v and the potentiometer works well since I tested it when I opened the valve, so it's clearly measuring the valve position incorrectly. Well it's because the gap with the cap makes the pot stick out more than it should, so it thinks valve is open by about 1-2mm. Duuuuh. The valve lift sensor is basically just a voltage diver like this, except there's a pot instead of the two resistors. The ratio of the resistor values determines the output voltage:  The actual values were 2.73k and 2.46k, which if you plug into the formula results in 2.37v, or almost exactly what I measured. To get about 1.5v output, you'd need about 3.6k and 1.6k, instead. So I also measured that 1mm or pot/valve travel changes the resistance by about 400 ohms, so to get to my desired values I need to make up about 2mm of travel. I still couldn't get rid of the gap in the valve cap entirely, so instead I 3d printed a little spacer that went on the potentiometer and effectively lengthened the valve by 2mm.   Cleared the codes and after a short test drive P0409 came up I think. I checked under the hood and the hose clamp came off so I tightened it better and it's been code-free since.tl;dr: Trying to fix a sealed EGR valve is in no way worth the time, but can be a fun learning exercise if you're into that sort of thing! Maybe this will be useful for someone regardless. -------------------------------- Unfortunately any further racing plans aren't really working out so far. Some events were canceled and I couldn't get into the ones that weren't. And I'm not sure I want to do another rally like the last one, it was a fun experience but I don't think I'd want to spend a week of vacation to just drive non-stop again. My miata will need some painting done later so I'm definitely keeping it for a bit more, but then might clean up and sell it. On the other hand, I also recently discovered these things:  I mean the AMR superchargers. Look how cute they are, and about the size of an AC compressor. 
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Jan 26, 2022 13:54
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Boring beater log, entry 213. After fixing the EGR issue I went to do the mandatory tech inspection. I gave the guy some extra cash to make sure it passed on first try but anyway he only had two issues to note: rear brake effectiveness and headlight level adjustment. I knew about the brakes and greased the sliders but the left rotors is rusted and probably below min thickness so that's something to look into. Headlight level is ok, he just couldn't adjust them so eh whatever. Overall I'm pretty impressed for a 18 year old $600 car. I then did a long trip, almost 2000km of 50/50 highway and country roads. I filled the oil before leaving and, if the dipstick is roughly linear, lost about 0.2l of oil. I never really tracked the oil consumption but it felt worse than that. Maybe it is on shorter trips. Anyway that brings me to just over 10k km and due for a full oil/filter change. And, ooff, my front washer is dead apparently. No pumping sound, while the rear one works. Looks like Honda, in their infinite winsdom, used different pumps for front and rear so I can't just swap them out (maybe just swap the tubes and use the rear switch?). That's a bummer because the part looks impossible to find and is of course $$$ from the dealer. There's a sketchy generic one on ebay but at that point I'd rather try the junkyards first.
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Apr 19, 2022 08:40
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Good luck with your hunt. I would absolutely be scouring junkyards for it, but the reroute and rewire does sound like an entertaining fix too.
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Apr 19, 2022 23:57
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I’ve used the generic eBay washer pumps for various cars, they’re totally fine most of the time.
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Apr 21, 2022 05:54
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Since my manager is in the US, I effectively had a day off today to screw around with the car  Three things were on the agenda:
nitsuga posted:Good luck with your hunt. I would absolutely be scouring junkyards for it, but the reroute and rewire does sound like an entertaining fix too. RIP Paul Walker posted:I’ve used the generic eBay washer pumps for various cars, they’re totally fine most of the time. Thanks! I wanted to first see what was actually the problem before running around to find a pump, which may or may not be even faulty. The pumps aren't accessible from under the hood, but it's not too difficult, just need to remove the fender liner (while breaking some clips of course) and they're right there.  I think that could be the problem right there! No idea how it could exlode like that. I'm pretty much running this blue winter fluid year-round because I don't use that much of it so it always lasts me into the summer. Anyway, there's no fixing this so I'll need a new pump. Until then, I swapped the tubes, which were just long enough to make that possible. I now have to turn on the rear washer to spray the front windshield, and then manually turn on the front wipers It turned out to be impossible to find the exact part number, but there was this one on ebay that claims to be compatible. It's not exactly 1:1 match but might work.  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/16541696...%3ABFBM0rr77qJg Replacing the liftgate handle went according to plan... mostly. The process is: 1. Remove rear wiper 2. Remove liftgate trim by just pulling it off 3. Push out all the clips and one bolt that's holding the panel 4. Replace hande.  The problem, it turned out, was the bolt in step 3. Other than the clips it's the only actual fastener holding this panel down and it's rusted to gently caress. When removing it, I just hit it with the impact until it somehow broke free, but on reassembly there's no way to get it back in place. I didn't have a grinder or a saw with me today so the whole thing is just a bit loose on the left side for now :shurg: 
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May 30, 2022 23:26
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The hood looks like the surface of the loving moon from all the stone chips, which doesn't really matter... so I decided to do some experiments with a  paint kit while talking with my grandfather on the phone, so a solid hour or so to get some work done.That's jut the biggest cluster but not all of them, I sanded until the chips were clean from rust and smooth  Applied the paint in at least half a dozen layers, paint always dried out and still left a big hole. Eventually when I thought there was enough (and it turned out to be quite difficult to judge without touching it), sanded it with 600, then 1000 and 2000 grit. A bit of hand-polishing with compound. It's better than a hole but still looks like rear end  There's a smaller finished one just above and to the left, looks a bit better. Obviously it needs a more polishing to get rid of the sanding scratches, I'll get the drill next time. But I think that while the new pain is properly shiny, I probably went through some of the original clearcoat and that's the part just around the new paint that's not as shiny. It also doesn't feel completely flat. I do have clearcoate separately as part of the repair kit and in a spray can but I think I'll try adding a few new layers and see if that would help even it all out. Update I did some more experimental stuff. It also has a decent number of scratches of various depths and general paint shittiness from 20 years of street parking and machine washing I assume. First there's this area on the D pillar, no idea how one gets scratches like that. Seems like someone had a go with pretty fine sandpaper and then just left it there. I had a go at it with a rougher and then finer compound on a foam pad. Took a quite a bit of polishing to get rid of the deeper scratches but it's good now.   It seemed to be also good for the "undamaged" paint, you can see where I stopped polishing near the top sun reflection. I eventually did a bit more of the panel but not too much as I used a cordless drill instead of a DA polisher.  You can see a bunch of other scratches on that panel as well but they were all quite a bit deeper so I left them be for now. The main thing I wanted to finish up were the stone chips. I cleaned and painted in most of the bigger holes a few days ago and now went to finish it. Here's a pretty big one. Looks relatively good but there's a clear low spot and a hole in the top left of the fill.   I probably should've tried to fill the low spot and holes with some more paint at that point, but I didn't want to wait again so I polished it to see how that looked. The little holes and the low spot is still visible of course, but more surprising, I thought that the edge of the chip wouldn't be visible any more. It felt completely smooth to me. And 2000 grit sandpaper isn't fine enough and a pain in the rear end to buff out. Here's another pretty big one. No idea what's the deal with the right side.  I think it's the same one, just rotated?  This type of repair is never going to be perfect of course, and it doesn't really matter on this shitbox, but I'm curious if you could do better. Feels like there are very specific issues like the bubbles (?) and low spots that could be improved if I knew WTF I was doing. So if you have any suggestions, I'd be happy to test them out since there's no risk to loving it up more. Edit 2: Well IPA took care of that fairly easily. I guess I didn't have to drive around with the residue for a year  I also did the most half-assed headlight job ever and the results are... extremely adequate. They were pretty bad to begin with  I did a test on an area that wouldn't impact the light output if I hosed it up really bad  But it turned out pretty well. There's still some weird cracks and crap that seems to be on the inside but  Step 1: Compound with a literal dish sponge on a drill. Step 2: There is no step 2. Well it should probably be to apply some protective coating but I had none on hand. But since it takes literally just 5 minutes, I'll gladly do this again as needed. mobby_6kl fucked around with this message at 17:11 on Feb 19, 2023 |
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Aug 17, 2022 20:00
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Non-cosmetic issue gets its own post! Today looked like it would be a reasonably nice day for the first and maybe last time in weeks so I took some time to replace the windshield washer. Since June I had the front and rear washer swapped because the pump somehow exploded, so to use it I had to turn on the rear wiper and then washer, while simultaneously also turning on the front wipers. Quite a pain in the rear end, but I could get away with it during the summer. I wasn't able to find any specs on the OEM pump so had to kind of wing it. The closest one I could find is this one, intended for various Hondas including the Civic 1988-2004. Close enough, right?  https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32869072473.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.6e531802jejWkJ  Update: the diameter on the OEM pump is 15.5mm / 16.5 on the rib. So that's what you to aim for  There were... some slight issues.
mobby_6kl fucked around with this message at 20:41 on Sep 28, 2022 |
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Sep 21, 2022 15:44
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It's slowly getting warm enough outside to mess with the car and I'm thinking of actually attempting the supercharger. I think the main question is whether it'll fit in there easily (maybe in place of the A/C compressor, which is useless anyway), as I don't want a major  project for something this silly. And if the dual ignition will pose any challenges with something like the Speeduino. Probably should've done this during the winter but ehh.Anyway, no new issues with the car other than a bad battery and somehow sticking hood release: mobby_6kl posted:The cable was still attached to the handle, and was clearly under tension when pulling it, which was weird. Really couldn't see anything through the grille or the gap between either (there was a rubber gasket). Somehow just pulling on the hood really hard got it open though, which is again strange because pushing it down didn't latch it either I did replaced the HVAC backlight finally. Fan speed and temperature were fine but the directional thing was always a pain in the rear end since the order is different than in the miata. It's #12 here. It's not clear what "Bulb, wedge" is, exactly, but someone on the Fit forums replaced them with T5 / W1.2W /W3W / whatever, I got these: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003294293483.html  You have to undo the cables 14, 13 and 15 within the glove box and then pop the whole radio/HVAC panel out. I couldn't find where the purple cable goes (below) to unhook it so didn't take the radio out completely and left it hanging a bit. The bulbs are here as indicated, pretty difficult to reach through the available gaps:   Reinstalling them turned out to be a bigger pain in the rear end since the little copper tabs apparently were a bit bent, so the plastic bulb holder just refuse to twist in. Ended up bending it with a screwdriver after struggling for like 10 minutes.   The original bulbs were probably more on the amber side, oops. Also not sure if the left one is working, might need to flip the polarity. Already much better anyway though.
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May 9, 2023 10:32
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Shitbox gonna shitbox, and something fell off today as I was picking up my parents from the train station  It was on a small empty road so I could just pull over and just kick the muffler off the mount. It sounds pretty good now, I wonder if I could get away with just replacing it with a straight pipe. It's really not that loud compared to what's driving around so it'd probably be fine until the next inspection time. A bit annoying at higher speeds though. https://i.imgur.com/nkUFspy.mp4 A new one is $40 though so I might as well replace it right awawy.
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Oct 3, 2023 11:47
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ah yes the timeless shitbox tradition of having the muffler fall off
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Oct 3, 2023 11:55
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Who wears it better? https://i.imgur.com/NJrlZNi.mp4 Cactus Ghost posted:ah yes the timeless shitbox tradition of having the muffler fall off For a moment I considered if I should get the $40 muffler or, instead, buy a welder and learn to weld in order to try to re-attach the existing muffler to the flange, which is still sitting there. This would save me negative hundreds of dollars and I'd be now able to weld (probably very poorly). Considering the weather is getting progressively worse though and I'd have to do it on the street, I think I'd need to fix this asap though. E: muffler ordered, also an update on the bulb replacement I forgot about : For the A/C and defroster I later got these T3s: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003663553780.html  They don't really fit. The LED is obviously larger than the bulb and the base platform is thinner so I had to file it and then hot glue them in place. I don't know if that's an issue with these specific T3s or they're supposed to be a different type completely. mobby_6kl fucked around with this message at 17:18 on Oct 30, 2023 |
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Oct 14, 2023 10:32
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It took uhhh... a few months but I got the muffler replaced. My excuses are that it too cold to work outside, I was on traveling on holidays for a month, it was still cold, I was on another trip, it was still cold, then my first attempt failed as bolts were too rusty to do deal with them on the street. Had to go to my parents place and cut them off with a grinder, which is like a super power. The flanges sat much closer together though so I was only able to make one cut awkwardly here:  One of the springs went flying and hit me in the goggles after impacting something else on the car. There wasn't much left of the cutoff disk at that point to finish the job so I drove to buy another cutoff and grinding disk. Ended up using the latter to finish off the bolts. The new one doesn't fit as closely with the donut gasket but as long as it seals I might have some rust issues though. The axle is still solid enough for now but the metal part of the brake lines (just at the top of the photo) looks pretty nasty, and it's not something I particularly look forward to dealing with. Also pulled out a few small dents with an aliexpress PDR kit. Not perfect, but much less noticeable now. E: Another open issue are the rear brake disks and pads. I ordered the parts a week ago and the store hasn't updated the order and doesn't answer my calls. It's a smaller shop that has good prices and local pickup so they're either on vacation (that happened before) or they went bankrupt or something. mobby_6kl fucked around with this message at 11:20 on Apr 16, 2024 |
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Apr 16, 2024 09:31
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stay safe little fit
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Apr 16, 2024 12:38
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