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clutchpuck posted:Pulled the trio of carbs from the xs750. The needle jet slide things are pretty stuck, I think a pine sol bath should wake this bike right up. I feel like this doesn't get said enough: Be sure to dilute the pine-sol or simple green properly. Not only is it MORE effective at the proper dilution, but it also is less likely to damage any aluminum. I usually go around 10:1 water to S.G.
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Jan 27, 2013 15:34
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the walkin dude posted:Curious to see how you like it! HAHA holy poo poo is this too fun and so stupid for a commuter. Took it for a short spin that turned into 50 miles of riding like an rear end in a top hat in 40 degree weather on wet roads covered in salt and sand from the ice/snow Friday. Front end gets light pretty easy, rear end dances all over the place and it seems to want to back in everywhere. My face hurts from laughing and smiling. All urges to buy another supermoto for hooligan commuting are gone though now I kind of want to put dirtbike bars on it. If you own a SV650 you owe it to yourself to try different gearing.
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Jan 27, 2013 19:14
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:I feel like this doesn't get said enough: Be sure to dilute the pine-sol or simple green properly. Not only is it MORE effective at the proper dilution, but it also is less likely to damage any aluminum. You're right about simple green, which is somewhat alkaline, but there's nothing in pine-sol that's going to hurt aluminum. I just dilute the stuff 1:1 with water and put it in a big bucket, and soak parts in it for a couple of days at a time. Grease wipes right off.
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Jan 27, 2013 19:33
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Reinstalled the battery and went for a short ride today. It was only 26F out so it was a short and freezing cold time.
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Jan 27, 2013 20:30
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Lubed my clutch cable and moved my levers down a bit. After a 2 hour ride in stop and go traffic yesterday my hand was killing me, now it's so much easier to pull the clutch in. Night and day difference.
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Jan 28, 2013 00:28
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That is one of those things that I end up doing on every bike I'm on for a significant period of time. I did it with my latest round of maintenance as well. It's absolutely amazing the comfort difference a few degrees of downward angle can make for comfort on levers after some time in rush hour. I recommend that to everybody, and I'm not sure why all bikes don't come that way stock.
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Jan 28, 2013 00:36
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Got my VTR serviced a couple of weeks ago and thought it was handling a bit weird - turns out the shop had set the tyre pressures back to front. 32PSI front, 30 rear. No wonder it cornered strangely for the first few minutes. Also discovered that my Street Triple R has a dead battery in addition to the obligatory faulty R/R. 
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Jan 28, 2013 03:32
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Shouting Melon posted:Also discovered that my Street Triple R has a dead battery in addition to the obligatory faulty R/R. Doh! What's the deal with the R/R? I've heard the striples have had problems with it but I don't even know what that is to be perfectly honest. I'm hyped to put some new tires (PR2s) and (fingers crossed) a new sprocket and chain kit once I sell my old car. Any suggestions on brands and/or configurations? I was thinking -1/+2 with a 525 chain.
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Jan 28, 2013 04:40
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Covert Ops Wizard posted:Doh! What's the deal with the R/R? I've heard the striples have had problems with it but I don't even know what that is to be perfectly honest. Something about the R/R "malfunctioning resulting in a flattened battery and consequential engine stalling", which I'm guessing means it doesn't feed charge back to the battery so you can't start it again once you've got it going (because that's what happened the last time I took it out). The fix is a new MOSFET R/R relocated from under the seat directly over the exhausts to the back of the engine just in front of the shock.
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Jan 28, 2013 05:52
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Worked on the 79 Honda today. - Changed the oil. Not too bad, was happy to see that the hex heads weren't all rounded off. Also, having a girlfriend who works in a bio lab rocks... she brought me a big old box of rubber gloves to keep my soft girlish hands oil-free. - Adjusted the chain tension. I haven't done this before, but it turned out to be really drat easy. - Really lazy cleaning job, applied some wax on the tank and used some chrome clean/polish on the chrome bits.
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Jan 28, 2013 08:02
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Changed the oil and front brake pads. When taking off the left caliper, I almost undid the brakeline bolt. Heh. Switching out the pads was a lot easier than I expected.
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Jan 28, 2013 16:03
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I got a USB cable so I can reset my TPS. Is it rare for ECU bikes to have a manually adjustable idle and/or manually adjustable timing (as opposed to a cam sensor)?
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Jan 28, 2013 20:25
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High Protein posted:I got a USB cable so I can reset my TPS. Is it rare for ECU bikes to have a manually adjustable idle and/or manually adjustable timing (as opposed to a cam sensor)?
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Jan 28, 2013 23:58
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High Protein posted:I got a USB cable so I can reset my TPS. Is it rare for ECU bikes to have a manually adjustable idle and/or manually adjustable timing (as opposed to a cam sensor)? Idle maybe, especially carbed bikes and first-gen EFI ones that had a manual fast-idle lever, but surely mechanical timing on an ECU system is a bit contradictory?
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Jan 29, 2013 00:25
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High Protein posted:I got a USB cable so I can reset my TPS. Is it rare for ECU bikes to have a manually adjustable idle and/or manually adjustable timing (as opposed to a cam sensor)? e: on a real keyboard so I'll retype this more clearly with details. The TPS is sort of a oddball pre-DDFI-3 Buell thing. On the 08+ models equipped with DDFI-3, the TPS reset is simply about turning the key on and off a few times and then moving the throttle from open to closed a few times to get the ECM to figure out the range it's working with. The idle adjust on it is pretty standard. It's just a screw that changes where the throttle stops. You're only touching it on the TPS reset because you want the throttle completely closed when you zero the TPS. It's typically a few degrees open at idle. You shouldn't be touching the static timing manually on this bike at all. It has a cam/crank position sensor that is left alone unless it fails (the cover comes riveted, not screwed on). Spark timing is handled by the ECM unless your 03(?)'s ECM is way different than on my 06, which I doubt; I believe you're also running a DDFI-2. For what it's worth, with that USB cable you can also adjust fuel and spark maps on your bike. But you probably already know that. Tip: pull the headlight fuse while you're working with the TPS so you aren't draining the battery. clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 03:26 on Jan 29, 2013 |
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Jan 29, 2013 03:06
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Thanks for the write up. Yeah DDFI-2 is kind of weird (mine's a 07). Interestingly, 07 and up Sportster efi was directly at DDFI-3 level with an idle air control valve and no manually adjustable static timing, though I don't think the actual ECUs are the same. They even had dual O2 sensors like 2010 XBs. Good tip on the headlight fuse.
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Jan 29, 2013 18:37
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Rode it, yesterday I took advantage of the ridiculous 61F weather in chicago and got in a 45 mile ride. I got to test the fork gaiters I installed Monday and they worked perfect which is surprising because they were only $6 rancho shock boots from amazon. Harley wants around $60 a pair. Up Close  Next step is ditching the sportster headlight brow. my turn in the barrel fucked around with this message at 22:02 on Jan 30, 2013 |
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Jan 30, 2013 19:49
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This arrived in the mail yesterday. Now I have to decide which to wrestle this upon, my naked ZX6R with Acerbis headlight, or my naked SV with BMW headlight.
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Jan 31, 2013 15:01
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the walkin dude posted:This arrived in the mail yesterday. Good choice, although I have had tons of people inform me that one of my headlights is broken. But then I guess that's an issue with all duals.
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Jan 31, 2013 21:04
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High Protein posted:Good choice, although I have had tons of people inform me that one of my headlights is broken. But then I guess that's an issue with all duals. "Which one, that one..." /high beam on "or that one?" /high beam off
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Jan 31, 2013 21:38
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Rejetted the carbs on the Fzr and spent the past 2 days repairing the damage from moving across country. Filled it up with 100octane and threw on new tires.   3 more weeks until the new fairings arrive but I'm not waiting. Duct tape is a legit patch repair right? 
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Jan 31, 2013 22:01
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Trick question. Duct tape is a legit repair method for anything/everything.
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Jan 31, 2013 22:15
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I use duct tape for everything. But only because fiberglass patch kits scare me, despite doing an incredibly awesomely good job.
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Jan 31, 2013 22:16
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there is fiberglass and plastic weld patches allover these fairings. After whateverthefuck hit it and destroyed pretty much the entire nose it was just not time effective to weld everything for a 70th time. For a while Duct tape made the airbox work.
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Jan 31, 2013 22:23
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Whoo, posting spree. After exposing my Ninja for two days to the mostly-washed-down streets of Rochester, I caught rust starting to take ahold on the exhaust and few other pieces (like the hinges to my new footpegs). Used white vinegar and some scrubbing time to banish the surface rust. Worth it just to keep my four-fingered mechanical fist of fury relatively pristine. I did find a new, and small, valve gasket leak, though. Will be fixing that in a few hundred miles when valve-adjustment time rolls by. 
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Feb 1, 2013 03:27
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the walkin dude posted:This arrived in the mail yesterday. I vote ninja! I hate acerbis headlights and think those would look badass on it.
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Feb 1, 2013 04:00
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the walkin dude posted:Worth it just to keep my four-fingered mechanical fist of fury relatively pristine. Do you not count the thumb, or are you short a digit?
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Feb 1, 2013 05:14
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Took the caps and bowls off the XS750's carburetors for the pine sol dip. By the look of the bowls, I imagine something is clogged up somewhere. I should probably clean out the tank real good, too. I put it in a pretty weak pine sol dip to avoid a lot of aluminum oxide and I'll leave it there until Saturdayish. Anything specific I should do while I have these off the bike? Bench sync, float levels, clean anything specific? Carburetors are sort of voodoo to me. All the diaphragm things look about like:    Bowls weren't real pretty.   Keeping everything semi-organized.  Not super nasty, really.  
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Feb 1, 2013 07:09
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Zool posted:Do you not count the thumb, or are you short a digit? Is the fist furiously windmilling underneath me at 15,000 RPM, five-cylindered? Covert Ops Wizard posted:I vote ninja! I hate acerbis headlights and think those would look badass on it. I've been vacillating between the SV and the Ninja. The SV has headlight brackets ready to use (flip them upside down). The Ninja needs new fork brackets yet needs salvation from the Acerbis horror, and it'd be the first Ninja I've ever seen with a Buell headlight. The only thing really holding me back is, I'm stuck with city parking for the short term. I fear thievery if people start being intrigued by my de-uglified bikes. Would a Buell headlight fit the bill of not arousing intrigue? the walkin dude fucked around with this message at 07:19 on Feb 1, 2013 |
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Feb 1, 2013 07:12
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Those carburetors look pretty good, actually. I've seen worse internals from well-running bikes.
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Feb 1, 2013 07:16
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the walkin dude posted:Is the fist furiously windmilling underneath me at 15,000 RPM, five-cylindered? 4 cylinder: windmill V-twin: washing machine filled with rocks
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Feb 1, 2013 07:19
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Geirskogul posted:Those carburetors look pretty good, actually. I've seen worse internals from well-running bikes. Yeah those actually look GREAT. Hold those diaphragms up to light to check for pinholes and polish those needles with some #0000 steel wool and you're probably good to go (provided you get jets clean of course). Edit: don't leave it in the pine-sol too long as that can harm aluminum. I don't know what the cut-off time before damage occurs is but I'd say 12h in hot water+pinesol is plenty. be sure to blow everything out with carb spray and compressed air and run a wire through the jets. Also, definitely check the float levels and you can bench sync them while they're off, sure. GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 07:24 on Feb 1, 2013 |
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Feb 1, 2013 07:22
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Slavvy posted:4 cylinder: windmill Single cylinder: Paint shaker Single cylinder (Enfield): Broken paint shaker Parallel twin: Michael Jackson (walk backwards on the centerstand, and were only sexy 20-30 years ago)
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Feb 1, 2013 07:24
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Edit: don't leave it in the pine-sol too long as that can harm aluminum. Are you getting this from experience, or just something that you heard? Cause I'm positive there is nothing in pine-sol that will react with aluminum at all, and I personally have left carburetor bodies in pine-sol for literally weeks with no damage.
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Feb 1, 2013 07:35
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the walkin dude posted:The only thing really holding me back is, I'm stuck with city parking for the short term. I fear thievery if people start being intrigued by my de-uglified bikes. Would a Buell headlight fit the bill of not arousing intrigue? I mean, I would be tempted, but I enjoy your frankenbikes. I think either a thief is knowledgeable or not...if he knows he's looking at zx6r he's gonna think about taking it no matter how ugly it is, and if he isn't knowledgable he might pass it by because it doesn't look like a sportbike. It's not the shiniest bike in the world even with the buells, if a thief is gonna go for it it's because he thinks it's gonna be an easy score (not chained, no alarm, ect) that he can part out easily and not because of the aesthetic impact of the new headlights.
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Feb 1, 2013 07:40
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Any streetfighter is worthless to a thief. The value parts are the shiny bits. Joyriders, on the other hand...
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Feb 1, 2013 08:00
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the walkin dude posted:Is the fist furiously windmilling underneath me at 15,000 RPM, five-cylindered? Where in Rochester do you live? Some places were really terrible. I lived in the 19th Ward for a while and would not want to leave any sort of decent bike out.
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Feb 1, 2013 08:20
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Sagebrush posted:Are you getting this from experience, or just something that you heard? Cause I'm positive there is nothing in pine-sol that will react with aluminum at all, and I personally have left carburetor bodies in pine-sol for literally weeks with no damage. I've heard it can damage aluminum but I have not experienced this forehand. I've only used pinesol in an ultrasonic cleaner, so the carbs only spend for 15-20 minutes in the pinesol. Not nearly enough time for the carbs to be damaged.
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Feb 1, 2013 08:49
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Slavvy posted:4 cylinder: windmill V4: windmill filled with rocks. (Or washing machine filled with windmills?)
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Feb 1, 2013 11:33
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The pine sol bottle warns that it is a federal crime to use it in a manner inconsistent with its labeling. It also says not to use on aluminum. I'm going to prison, aren't I? Update: they were dipped for about 10 hours and came out pretty much cleaner. The warm water softened the diaphragms and allowed them relax to their original-ish shape. The needle things needed zero scrubbing - the pine sol got off the varnish without help: Before: After:  You know what I liked about working with the pine sol? Washing the floor with it and then dumping down the drain. Can't do that with whatever chem-bath they sell at the parts place. GnarlyCharlie4u posted:I feel like this doesn't get said enough: Be sure to dilute the pine-sol or simple green properly. Not only is it MORE effective at the proper dilution, but it also is less likely to damage any aluminum. I diluted per the label, which is about 64:1. I also found advice online that says to dip them in straight, undiluted Pine-sol. After smelling the concentrated stuff and reading the directions and warnings, I decided a weak bath would be the better option. clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 16:41 on Feb 1, 2013 |
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Feb 1, 2013 15:43
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