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caberham posted:What if your internet connection requires PPPoE? Can you technically have your modem connect to your switch and then route from your switch to your router because of house wiring constraints? With some magical routing rules and switching rules, is it doable? I'm just curious. With PPPoE you should be able to just put the authentication stuff on your Router and not bother with it on the PC at all and have no issues since the modem will just drop the non-PPPoE traffic. I don't have a ton of experience dealing with PPPoE in the wild, though. There's no technical reason you can't have the switch come right after the modem, it's just that in a DHCP situation it will create more work. EDIT: This also all only matters if the switch is unmanaged, but again I'm assuming it is or else he probably wouldn't need to post about it. EDIT2: Also I just realized I could be totally wrong about it working in a real-life situation at all since I dunno how many home routers actually handle LAN-related stuff on the WAN port. If you were really dead set on putting the switch in first, you'd probably have to spring for a managed one and setup a pair of VLANs, one for modem-router traffic and one for LAN-router traffic. Or you could delve into the VLAN stuff using DD-WRT on the router itself, but that's gonna be more work and last time I dealt with it the interfaces for that stuff were rough to say the least. Inspector_666 fucked around with this message at 05:29 on Sep 13, 2013 |
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Sep 13, 2013 04:24
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nvm fixed it
JRay88 fucked around with this message at 01:45 on Sep 15, 2013 |
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Sep 15, 2013 01:34
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We will probably be closing on a house really soon here and if/when we do I'm going to be working with a general contractor to start planning out a major remodel. I was hoping someone might have a good list of tips or considerations for how best to future-proof a house. Assuming all of the electrical is going to be re-wired throughout the house anyway and we have sort of a carte-blanche for what we do with the home networking can someone paint me a picture of what an ideal configuration would be vs. maybe a more moderate install? I'm thinking gigabit switch, possibly rack-mounted, and cat-6 cable, but I'm also starting to think it'd be great to run HDMI and USB from wherever the office will be to wherever the den/tv watching room will be in case I want to have my media box in a completely different room. also thinking maybe I should put a 4-jack plate behind my tv for networking my PS3, receiver, media pc, xbox, etc. rather than have a switch out in the open on the entertainment center. At any rate, just hoping to hear some recommendations and if someone can point me to some guides or resources I'd really appreciate it.
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Sep 16, 2013 22:12
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Conduits! For the AV, at least, have them run the wires through some kind of conduit tubing and maybe even have them leave a pull rope in there for you to use. That way, no matter what they put in there, you can upgrade it in the future if/when a new connection type comes out. Of course, when that happens you'll probably need a new TV and all new equipment on the other end, too, but at least pulling the wires will be easy. Also do not underestimate how many ports you need in each room unless you're fine dropping switches everywhere.
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Sep 16, 2013 22:18
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Carte blanche would be CAT6 all the hell over the place as you describe with multiple ports on each wall jack. More moderate would be CAT6 to important places (desktop that is a media/file server, NAS, entertainment center) and wireless/moca/powerline to hit everything else to take advantage of existing wiring/radio spectrum.
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Sep 16, 2013 22:23
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Inspector_71 posted:Conduits! For the AV, at least, have them run the wires through some kind of conduit tubing and maybe even have them leave a pull rope in there for you to use. That way, no matter what they put in there, you can upgrade it in the future if/when a new connection type comes out. what would be a realistic estimate for how many ports then? assuming...
I'm thinking 4+ in den, 4+ in office, 1 in kitchen, 1 in living room, 1 in bedroom MMD3 fucked around with this message at 22:55 on Sep 16, 2013 |
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Sep 16, 2013 22:52
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MMD3 posted:what would be a realistic estimate for how many ports then? Just make a little list of how much poo poo you're gonna need to plug in. I can't tell you how many you'll need, but I can almost guarantee it'll be 2+ in most rooms where you need any.
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Sep 16, 2013 23:07
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MMD3 posted:what would be a realistic estimate for how many ports then? Also, something like a bedroom/livingroom you need to think about how you might not always have things arranged in such a way, maybe you get a new bed and want to move it to a different wall or whatever. Same thing with the living room, probably more so there. So jacks on two walls might be the way to go, and yeah, at least 2 in every room that you will want wired ethernet access
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Sep 17, 2013 01:58
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MF_James posted:Also, something like a bedroom/livingroom you need to think about how you might not always have things arranged in such a way, maybe you get a new bed and want to move it to a different wall or whatever. Same thing with the living room, probably more so there. So jacks on two walls might be the way to go, and yeah, at least 2 in every room that you will want wired ethernet access awesome, great advice! how about as far as hardware? Other than a modem and router do I just need a big gigabit switch? possibly wireless bridge on the second floor if the main router will be in the basement?
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Sep 17, 2013 05:09
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That home projects sounds awesome! Please take more photos and keep us goons updated. For hardware, I recommend Power Over Ethernet (PoE) switches. If you can spend, maybe try getting Ubiquiti toughswitch PRO (8 port Gigabit PoE) http://www.ubnt.com/edgemax#toughswitch And then lace your home with their Unifi-Ap Pro's . Apparently, there's the new ac version but it seems to be still immature from the small net builder review. You can also get a whole bunch of PoE IP cams. A Nest thermostat cisco iphone with extension lines Automated electrical doors with motion sensor (networked of course) And the usual Media server/NAS A lot more! Can you make a simple floor plan of your house? I also recommend having a central hub in the basement or somewhere to stash all your computer hardware, and allocate extra space in the second floor for an auxiliary command post. caberham fucked around with this message at 16:00 on Sep 17, 2013 |
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Sep 17, 2013 15:48
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^-- Ubiquiti makes AWESOME devices and are reasonably priced, if you want to go the AP route, look at what they offerMMD3 posted:awesome, great advice! Well, ideally you want all these jacks to run to a patch panel, which you would want installed where your modem/router are. You would probably not want this in the living room as it will look slightly messy, but better than installing a bunch of individual jacks at the end. From the patch panel you run ethernet cables (preferably cat6!) to your fancy switch. You could, like I said, technically not use a patch panel and just run the wires straight to your switch, or run them to individual biscuit jacks, but I would honestly recommend a patch panel and labeling all the jacks and the patch panel end properly so you know what runs where. Using a gigabit switch would not be a bad idea, gives you high transfer rates on the LAN and will scale well with upgrades to the internet infrastructure itself. The patch panel is a good way for cable management and ease of figuring out what goes where. It does add extra cabling to the end, but the cost is small for the cables compared to how simple it will make things, but everything has to be labeled properly for it to work. As I said this would be best if it wasn't in your living room. It would be ideal if it was in a basement or some room that won't have a lot of traffic. You honestly don't even NEED it installed at the modem/router because you could use one of your jacks to connect the modem through the patch panel to the switch anyway, but it just makes it easier when everything is together so if you have trouble you can troubleshoot without walking all over the place. Also as a note, patch panels can be a bit pricey if you go that route. *edit* didn't see your question about wireless, you have a few options with that, you could use a few different things, you could use wireless powerline adapters, I would google those, they are about $120 for a high end consumer grade pair. You could also use a wireless repeater, depending on signal strength, you could use wireless APs, you have options honestly and it depends on how everything will be setup. You could deal with that once you've got everything else installed because it's something you can do on your own without a problem. What you can do is once you get the router installed is see how your signal strength is on each floor, and judge from there where you need to install an AP/repeater/powerline adapter. I would google each thing because they all have upsides/downfalls. MF_James fucked around with this message at 16:05 on Sep 17, 2013 |
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Sep 17, 2013 15:50
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You can also run low voltage power over the Ethernet for certain dc powered devices. You mentioned hdmi, you can run hdmi long range over Ethernet with simple adaptors, so the sky is the limit.
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Sep 17, 2013 18:56
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caberham posted:That home projects sounds awesome! Please take more photos and keep us goons updated. awesome advice. I've never actually looked into PoE so that's really helpful to know about. I'll check out the ubiquiti switch. Are there any like really small/clean racks that something like a ubiquiti switch and maybe a patch panel would fit into with a small footprint? Could be something wall-mounted, would rather it not be a big floor-standing server-rack looking thing. It doesn't look like gigabit switches are really all that much more expensive, I can't see a reason not to use one when looking at the costs associated with everything else we're doing. Now I'm just wondering how many ports I would want... the remodel is still a few months off yet so I'm not going to sweat it for a bit. I'd definitely love to have 1 or 2 nests (need to look into how well they interplay with each other) I can't see us needing a VOIP phone can't think of a reason we'd need automated electrical doors media server is something I'd definitely like to build... currently I have a DROBO 5-bay drive but unfortunately I made the mistake of picking up the eSATA/USB3 version rather than the NAS version. I'll try to draw up a floorplan soon, it's a pretty small footprint though, LR/DR/Kitchen/Bath/Bed (will be office) on main floor, 2xBed on 2nd floor, will be remodeled to a master bedroom with a bathroom and larger closet, laundry room, den (with wetbar) and garage in basement.
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Sep 17, 2013 19:11
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MMD3 posted:I'll try to draw up a floorplan soon, it's a pretty small footprint though, LR/DR/Kitchen/Bath/Bed (will be office) on main floor, 2xBed on 2nd floor, will be remodeled to a master bedroom with a bathroom and larger closet, laundry room, den (with wetbar) and garage in basement. If you need plans drawn for the remodel I can hook you up for a couple pairs of kicks.
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Sep 17, 2013 19:23
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highme posted:If you need plans drawn for the remodel I can hook you up for a couple pairs of kicks. Haha, are you an architect man?
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Sep 17, 2013 20:06
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I did residential design work before the housing market poo poo itself inside out.
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Sep 17, 2013 20:11
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I just got a new flat with a new internet connection but i'm having problems with getting my living room machine to connect to the new router/modem. The router is a: Wireless-N 150 ADSL2 + Modem Router model DGN1000 and the wireless adapter is some old Edimax nLITE thing my previous flatmate left me. It detects the network just fine but after "connecting" to it, doesn't actually connect and doesn't get an internet connection. I checked the attached devices from my other machine and the living room one doesn't show up so i'm pretty sure it's the adapter as our phones and laptops also connect to the router just fine. It's been a while since i've looked at the home networking thing properly, but based on how hard it was to set up port forwarding in that router I get the feeling it's a bit of a rubbish one. It does work fine though (albeit with a bit of a weak range) but i was wondering if anyone had a recommendation for a wireless adapter that would work better with it? Edit: The machine is running Windows 7 64-bit if that makes a difference in regards to drivers, etc.
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Sep 17, 2013 21:13
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I'm not sure if the OP is up to date but what are considered the better routers in the $50-$100 range? It would mostly be streaming Netflix and playing online multilayer PC games. I'm currently using Century Link's provided modem/router which works great for wired connections but doesn't do much wirelessly. We are on the 40mbps download speed plan currently.
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Sep 17, 2013 22:25
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pfSense 2.1 has been released, with a ton of updates: https://doc.pfsense.org/index.php/2.1_New_Features_and_Changes
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Sep 18, 2013 01:50
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I need a router with gigabit ports for around £100 or less. Should I still be looking at the Netgear WNDR4000 or WNDR4500? The wireless networking is pretty much a non factor for me. Edit: In fact if I don't need the wireless point at all would I be better getting a cheap switch?
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Sep 18, 2013 14:59
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Whooping Toff posted:I need a router with gigabit ports for around £100 or less. Should I still be looking at the Netgear WNDR4000 or WNDR4500? The wireless networking is pretty much a non factor for me. Do you just need extra network ports or do you need a device to do routing? If you need a device to do routing get a router, if all you need are extra ports get a switch
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Sep 18, 2013 15:08
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Ah yes I do actualy need routing.
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Sep 18, 2013 16:17
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Edit: Nvm
Dohaeris fucked around with this message at 22:03 on Sep 18, 2013 |
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Sep 18, 2013 21:14
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Just got this from the mail! Too bad all electrical plugs are American style plugs  Can't wait to take this thing home and try it out! And I will probably rip my hair out trying to configure things MMD3 posted:I'd definitely love to have 1 or 2 nests (need to look into how well they interplay with each other) The cool thing with VOIP phones is that they allow address book integration, so you can use your computer to sync address books and make calls. Long distance calling costs are also much cheaper and with a VOIP phones you can have better call logging, auto mated messaging system and other fancy things. It's like e-mail functionality for your house phone. The coolest thing is the is having a up to date filter for those annoying junk calls! Electrical doors are cool because again, you can have entry logs, issue guest passes and temporary guest codes (think couch surfers or house parties), and link up with your Ipcam. All these things can turn an average home into a awesome goon base. Anyways, draw those plans out and have the forums dictate your network layout! highme posted:If you need plans drawn for the remodel I can hook you up for a couple pairs of kicks. I'm sorry I don't understand this line 
caberham fucked around with this message at 05:07 on Sep 19, 2013 |
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Sep 19, 2013 05:00
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sorry double post
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Sep 19, 2013 05:06
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caberham posted:Just got this from the mail! I'm looking at these as well, I'm doing a bit of a remodel as well and I'm planning on getting a Unifi AP. Is there any benefit to having everything from Ubiquiti, is all their kit really good? Or would the AP work just as well if I got a different (cheaper) router and switch? I think the only POE thing would be the AP so I could just get an injector for that.
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Sep 19, 2013 10:54
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Holy poo poo what did I get myself into. Well, I suppose this is my weekend pet project  I just wanted a router with POE ports and this is takes time to figure out. This is like learning how to snowboard on a blue run instead of doing it on the bunny hill. Even if you know how to do basic PPoE and disable DHCP, there's waaaaaay more. But I really look foward to this.The POE router looks great, but isn't compatible with the unifi AP right out of the box. I need to go out and buy a 48V ac adapter. Granted it was written in the website with an * 
caberham fucked around with this message at 17:20 on Sep 19, 2013 |
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Sep 19, 2013 17:15
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caberham posted:Holy poo poo what did I get myself into. Well, I suppose this is my weekend pet project The UAP should power up just fine from the ToughSwitch PRO, since it can output either 24V or 48V. EdgeOS is a fork of Vyatta 6.3, so you can use the Vyatta docs for more in-depth configuration info. Also, make sure you get the latest firmware for both devices from the Ubiquiti website. SamDabbers fucked around with this message at 17:51 on Sep 19, 2013 |
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Sep 19, 2013 17:43
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Thanks for the links!, I tried the basic Vyatta tutorial and it's really good hand holding starter exercise. Different piecemeal pdfs without looking like a mega manual, nice! Unfortunately, when I tried to make a user called root and another password, the router won't let me log in. Is it probably linux being linux? root is a very very special name and implies super user? I managed to get UAP working with the tough switch by turning on POE, but I was referring to my 5por EDGEMAX POE router. Its default packaging is a 24v ac adapter. It's a minor gripe because once I go find myself a 48v adapter, I should be able to power other UAP devices with the router in addition to the switch. I messed up initial configuration and had to hard rest twice, and reload the config files a bunch of times. Right now I'm loading other people's config files and cross referencing with the CLI wiki. This whole process feels like I'm playing a roguelike - home networking version. My only advice is for stupid newbies like me is to start this in the morning at the beginning of the day when your brain is not so fried. Even when I connect the tough switch to the router, I have to set explicit permissions. On the face of things, this router seems to be very specific. Using the command line to even change the password and user settings is kind of fun.
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Sep 19, 2013 19:23
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caberham posted:Thanks for the links!, I tried the basic Vyatta tutorial and it's really good hand holding starter exercise. Different piecemeal pdfs without looking like a mega manual, nice! Unfortunately, when I tried to make a user called root and another password, the router won't let me log in. Is it probably linux being linux? root is a very very special name and implies super user?
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Sep 19, 2013 19:34
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If you're going to learn one configuration interface on the EdgeRouter, it should be the CLI, since not all of the features are exposed in the GUI yet. Once you get the hang of the set/commit mechanic and tab suggestions it's fairly intuitive. You've probably already visited the forums, which are surprisingly not too terrible to browse through. The developers are very responsive when you post for help or to report a bug, and there seem to be a few knowledgeable users in there too. Edit: If you need actual "root" access, you can always use 'sudo -s' from your regular, non-root admin account. Edit2: One of the things that really makes the platform stand out is that you can install standard Debian packages on it. Good luck with that on a Linksys running DD-WRT! SamDabbers fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Sep 19, 2013 |
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Sep 19, 2013 19:35
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I broke my config quite a few times and found resetting it to be a huge pain in the rear end.. especially since I use 10.0.0.0/24 and changed the port assignments :/ The process involved resetting it using the little switch (multiple times just be be sure), plugging in an ancient windows laptop (the only left with ethernet), manually setting it to 192.168.1.whatever and and praying the web interface would respond. Maybe I was doing something wrong or that laptop is to blame, or perhaps I got a dodgy unit.. who knows, hopefully I won't break it again  But yeah my config is super simple: code:Here's how the port forward looks btw, it took me a few attempts to get working :/ code:Gism0 fucked around with this message at 01:09 on Sep 20, 2013 |
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Sep 19, 2013 23:00
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MMD3 posted:
I would highly suggest going ahead and pulling surround sound speaker lines when you set up the entertainment center area.
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Sep 20, 2013 03:15
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Gism0 posted:I broke my config quite a few times and found resetting it to be a huge pain in the rear end.. especially since I use 10.0.0.0/24 and changed the port assignments :/ Thanks for the links, I tried combing through the SOHO exmaple, but everything is still not clicking for me. I can muck around the settings and make small commits here and there, but I'm still lost in terms of theory and what I need to set up for my house. I'm using PPPOE for my internet provider. So far I have Automatiaclly assign the address of Eth1 (for wan) by dhcp Configure eth1 as dhcp-server, pppoe I need to set a subnet and a range. However, I'm not exactly sure what the DNS server should be. Set up NAT so that devices inside the LAN can reach outside I think I probably need to set up DNS forwarding as well Firewall rules (i'm not even there yet). If you got any pointers that would be great. I'm trying to learn how to do things line by line or at least mimic the sample config files line by line to understand the "bigger picture"
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Sep 20, 2013 09:23
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So I was connecting up some unused jacks to a patch panel and switch, these where put in place by the people that built the place. Now I used my cable tester on the first cable I patched in and the corresponding jack and found the bloody thing doesn't match up. I connected everything according to the TIA-56B wiring scheme. I dunno what scheme this is though, it more closely matches 56A but the orange and white-orange cables have swapped places so it goes: green-white, green, orange, blue, blue-white, orange-white, brown-white, brown So is this some other unknown standard or did the guys who installed the jacks screw up (first by choosing T56A, then by messing up the orange wires placement). I haven't even bothered hooking up the other wires after this so I dunno if they're all connected the same or not.
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Sep 20, 2013 12:08
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caberham posted:Thanks for the links, I tried combing through the SOHO exmaple, but everything is still not clicking for me. I can muck around the settings and make small commits here and there, but I'm still lost in terms of theory and what I need to set up for my house. I'll walk you through configuring the EdgeRouter to work similarly to a typical consumer router, for a residential ISP using PPPoE. I have the 3-port EdgeRouter, not the 5-port PoE version, so my config will be missing a couple interfaces compared to yours, but the concepts all still apply and you can substitute ethX for ethY however you want. For the purposes of this tutorial, I'll set it up as follows:
Let's plug our PC into eth0 and set it to use a static IP of 192.168.1.2. Use PuTTY to SSH into your router at 192.168.1.1, and login using the default credentials (ubnt/ubnt). The default configuration looks like this: pre:ubnt@ubnt:~$ show configuration
interfaces {
ethernet eth0 {
address 192.168.1.1/24
}
ethernet eth1 {
}
ethernet eth2 {
}
loopback lo {
}
}
service {
gui {
}
ssh {
}
}
system {
login {
user ubnt {
authentication {
encrypted-password ****************
}
level admin
}
}
ntp {
server 0.ubnt.pool.ntp.org {
}
server 1.ubnt.pool.ntp.org {
}
server 2.ubnt.pool.ntp.org {
}
server 3.ubnt.pool.ntp.org {
}
}
syslog {
global {
facility all {
level notice
}
facility protocols {
level debug
}
}
}
}
pre:ubnt@ubnt:~$ configure
[edit]
ubnt@ubnt# set system login user samdabbers level admin
[edit]
ubnt@ubnt# set system login user samdabbers authentication plaintext-password 'toomanysecrets'
[edit]
ubnt@ubnt# show system login
+user samdabbers {
+ authentication {
+ plaintext-password toomanysecrets
+ }
+ level admin
+}
user ubnt {
authentication {
encrypted-password $1$zKNoUbAo$gomzUbYvgyUMcD436Wo66.
}
level admin
}
[edit]
ubnt@ubnt# commit
pre:ubnt@ubnt# exit Warning: configuration changes have not been saved. exit ubnt@ubnt:~$ exit logout Welcome to EdgeOS ubnt ttyS0 By logging in, accessing, or using the Ubiquiti product, you acknowledge that you have read and understood the Ubiquiti License Agreement (available in the Web UI at, by default, http://192.168.1.1) and agree to be bound by its terms. ubnt login: samdabbers Password: Linux ubnt 2.6.32.13-UBNT #1 SMP Tue Jun 4 14:54:28 PDT 2013 mips64 Welcome to EdgeOS samdabbers@ubnt:~$ pre:samdabbers@ubnt:~$ configure
[edit]
samdabbers@ubnt# delete system login user ubnt
[edit]
samdabbers@ubnt# show system login
user samdabbers {
authentication {
encrypted-password $6$m6PYxaUaj6wFXB$ZiNJ7c/JyfcV7vrxfy7Ryp9WoSYaAXELZCqCkmy2c3RPhdZ3YxGQm3HzKimpLDSmtn/j6Js4cTNh9kUK9eclf.
plaintext-password ""
}
level admin
}
-user ubnt {
- authentication {
- encrypted-password $1$zKNoUbAo$gomzUbYvgyUMcD436Wo66.
- }
- level admin
-}
[edit]
samdabbers@ubnt# commit
[edit]
samdabbers@ubnt# save
Saving configuration to '/config/config.boot'...
Done
pre:[edit]
samdabbers@ubnt# set interfaces ethernet eth0 description 'LAN'
[edit]
samdabbers@ubnt# set service dhcp-server shared-network-name 'LAN' subnet 192.168.1.0/24 start 192.168.1.100 stop 192.168.1.149
[edit]
samdabbers@ubnt# set service dhcp-server shared-network-name 'LAN' subnet 192.168.1.0/24 default-router 192.168.1.1
[edit]
samdabbers@ubnt# set service dhcp-server shared-network-name 'LAN' subnet 192.168.1.0/24 dns-server 192.168.1.1
[edit]
samdabbers@ubnt# set service dns forwarding listen-on eth0
[edit]
samdabbers@ubnt# compare
[edit interfaces ethernet eth0]
+description LAN
[edit service]
+dhcp-server {
+ disabled false
+ shared-network-name LAN {
+ authoritative disable
+ subnet 192.168.1.0/24 {
+ default-router 192.168.1.1
+ dns-server 192.168.1.1
+ lease 86400
+ start 192.168.1.100 {
+ stop 192.168.1.149
+ }
+ }
+ }
+}
+dns {
+ forwarding {
+ cache-size 150
+ listen-on eth0
+ }
+}
[edit]
samdabbers@ubnt# commit
[ service dhcp-server ]
Starting DHCP server daemon...
[ service dns forwarding system ]
DNS forwarding warning: Currently, no name-servers to forward DNS queries
[edit]
samdabbers@ubnt# save
Saving configuration to '/config/config.boot'...
Done
pre:samdabbers@ubnt# set interfaces ethernet eth1 description 'WAN'
[edit]
samdabbers@ubnt# set interfaces ethernet eth1 pppoe 0 user-id 'mypppid@myisp'
[edit]
samdabbers@ubnt# set interfaces ethernet eth1 pppoe 0 password 'myppppassword'
[edit]
samdabbers@ubnt# set service nat rule 5000 description 'Outbound NAT from LAN'
[edit]
samdabbers@ubnt# set service nat rule 5000 outbound-interface pppoe0
[edit]
samdabbers@ubnt# set service nat rule 5000 type masquerade
[edit]
samdabbers@ubnt# compare
[edit interfaces ethernet eth1]
+description WAN
+pppoe 0 {
+ default-route auto
+ mtu 1492
+ name-server auto
+ password myppppassword
+ user-id mypppid@myisp
+}
[edit service]
+nat {
+ rule 5000 {
+ description "Outbound NAT from LAN"
+ outbound-interface pppoe0
+ type masquerade
+ }
+}
[edit]
samdabbers@ubnt# commit
[edit]
samdabbers@ubnt# save
Saving configuration to '/config/config.boot'...
Done
pre:samdabbers@ubnt# exit
exit
samdabbers@ubnt:~$ show interfaces
Codes: S - State, L - Link, u - Up, D - Down, A - Admin Down
Interface IP Address S/L Description
--------- ---------- --- -----------
eth0 192.168.1.1/24 u/u LAN
eth1 - u/u WAN
eth2 - u/D
lo 127.0.0.1/8 u/u
::1/128
samdabbers@ubnt:~$ connect interface pppoe0
Bringing interface pppoe0 up...
samdabbers@ubnt:~$ show interfaces
Codes: S - State, L - Link, u - Up, D - Down, A - Admin Down
Interface IP Address S/L Description
--------- ---------- --- -----------
eth0 192.168.1.1/24 u/u LAN
eth1 - u/u WAN
eth2 - u/D
lo 127.0.0.1/8 u/u
::1/128
pppoe0 1.2.3.4 u/u
pre:samdabbers@ubnt:~$ show configuration
interfaces {
ethernet eth0 {
address 192.168.1.1/24
description LAN
}
ethernet eth1 {
description WAN
pppoe 0 {
password ****************
user-id mypppid@myisp
}
}
ethernet eth2 {
}
loopback lo {
}
}
service {
dhcp-server {
shared-network-name LAN {
subnet 192.168.1.0/24 {
default-router 192.168.1.1
dns-server 192.168.1.1
start 192.168.1.100 {
stop 192.168.1.149
}
}
}
}
dns {
forwarding {
listen-on eth0
}
}
gui {
}
nat {
rule 5000 {
description "Outbound NAT from LAN"
outbound-interface pppoe0
type masquerade
}
}
ssh {
}
}
system {
login {
user samdabbers {
authentication {
encrypted-password ****************
plaintext-password ****************
}
level admin
}
}
ntp {
server 0.ubnt.pool.ntp.org {
}
server 1.ubnt.pool.ntp.org {
}
server 2.ubnt.pool.ntp.org {
}
server 3.ubnt.pool.ntp.org {
}
}
syslog {
global {
facility all {
level notice
}
facility protocols {
level debug
}
}
}
}
SamDabbers fucked around with this message at 18:19 on Sep 20, 2013 |
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Sep 20, 2013 16:35
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This idea sounds like magic to me but my boss insists that I look into it, so I'm asking you guys. We need to carry an Modbus TCP/IP signal on CAT6 for well over the 100m distance limitation. I suggested an ethernet extender, but we don't have access to any line voltage (120V) power. Is there such a thing as an extender that is powered off of low voltage, say 24V DC or something along those lines? I just want to verify before I suggest we patch over to fiber for the distance, then back to CAT6 at the other end.
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Sep 20, 2013 18:20
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Isn't a switch effectively an ethernet extender? EDIT: Oh wait, I just re-read that and see that you aren't sending straight TCP/IP data across the line. A hub may actually be a solution, which is probably the only time I will ever write that statement. Inspector_666 fucked around with this message at 19:26 on Sep 20, 2013 |
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Sep 20, 2013 18:26
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Papercut posted:This idea sounds like magic to me but my boss insists that I look into it, so I'm asking you guys. While Ethernet can generally work past the given distance limitations it is out of spec and problems should be expected to occur. Given what ModBus is used for, its sounds like missing or corrupted data could very well be a business liability. On that point alone I would go with a pair of media converters and fiber. Even the cheapest OM1 fiber using 100FX is capable of 2000 meters. That is assuming you have power available at both ends. stevewm fucked around with this message at 19:22 on Sep 20, 2013 |
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Sep 20, 2013 19:19
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Inspector_71 posted:Isn't a switch effectively an ethernet extender? stevewm posted:While Ethernet can generally work past the given distance limitations it is out of spec and problems should be expected to occur. Given what ModBus is used for, its sounds like missing or corrupted data could very well be a business liability. On that point alone I would go with a pair of media converters and fiber. Even the cheapest OM1 fiber using 100FX is capable of 2000 meters. That is assuming you have power available at both ends. Thanks for the advice, this actually gave me enough info to get some options. Although I was on the site today and I think I actually found a route that will stay under the distance limit. This is a hospital so adding any new 120V loads triggers a slew of calculations and review that isn't practical for what we're doing.
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Sep 21, 2013 02:03
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