|
Bibendum posted:I'm sure it'll work fine for the foreseeable future. But dang, you realize you work a short walk from Tacoma Screw right? They will have something better. I was going to suggest the same, I know I've seen people sing their praise before.
|
#
?
May 1, 2014 07:52
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 29, 2024 06:55 |
|
|
Just found out that some notary is flying out from Texas to have my GF sign a bunch of papers about permissions for oil and gas drilling exploratory permissions for some sort of thing her dad was involved in years ago and i'm like wait what 
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2014 19:43
|
|
|
13 INCH DICK posted:Just found out that some notary is flying out from Texas to have my GF sign a bunch of papers about permissions for oil and gas drilling exploratory permissions for some sort of thing her dad was involved in years ago and i'm like wait what Jackpot?
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2014 19:44
|
|
|
Rhyno posted:Jackpot? No, its in Texas, not Nevada. Still, I suppose he'll be able to afford more bolts and strap-on devices, now.
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2014 20:04
|
|
|
I have a bunch of relatives in Oklahoma and many of them also have partial ownership of oil leases. Don't get too excited. A lot of the time, it's like, the company is drilling into a deposit that is barely economical (or it would have been drilled into decades ago), the deposit underlies a thousand different people's land, and so each of those people get a small check each year to cover their "share" of the small amount of oil that the company decides to pump. So it could be "jackpot" or it could be "you get a $400 check annually."
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2014 20:06
|
|
|
Still, if you get $400 annually (and split it with the lady), just think of how many spider-themed auto-accessories you can get!
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2014 20:15
|
|
|
Yeah no I'm not exactly imagining suddenly being catapulted into the nation's wealthy elite over this, I'm just saying as far as my 'things I expected to hear today' list goes this one's fairly far down it.
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2014 20:17
|
|
|
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=id7Q4clO-ro
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2014 20:20
|
|
|
In actual car related news, as the weather gets warmer I'm running hotter and hotter with no real clear reason why as of yet. I'm not using a drop of coolant, the level has remained full and the overflow level perfect since I did the fan switch a while back. I started going around replacing all engine ground wires, opening connectors, buffing and polishingeverything down to clean metal just to make sure that either funky grounds/powers were giving me innacurate gauge readings due to resistance, or maybe the fan wasn't getting enough juice, or whatever. The gauge temp sender is high on the engine on the back of the manifold by the carburetor, the fan switch is in the bottom of the radiator. I've checked my water pump belt tension. Noticed that the fan kicks on briefly to cycle once the temp gauge is actually beginning to point at the upper half of the line, well above the lower temp marking on the gauge, and that it runs for about 20 seconds before clicking back off. Would there be any reason I couldn't wire a manual switch in paralell before the fan switch to still allow it to work properly, but manually force it on once the temps start climbing? Also checked plugs and did a hot compression test just to know what's going on, plugs look barely used and the bits of color are barely tan with no deposits or soot, and I'm still seeing 15-18mpg based on known mileages per fill ups and the oil smells clean and normal, and the exhaust pipe smells like normal exhaust, and I can follow the entire line for fuel from tank to carb and I can't find a single loving leak. Compression numbers were 145-150 all 4 cylinders, spec is 175 but they were all equal. Vaccuum gauge is steady and normal so I don't think I have an incorrect timing issue causing them to read low.
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2014 21:09
|
|
|
Do you have a relay for the fan If yes: Check there, relays don't last forever, it's possible when it turns on it's been jiggled to the right spot, then gets unjiggled and turns off. If I was you I'd make sure I ran the switch off of the relay wires and not the full power wire, My guess is your fan pulls a decent amount of amps and you don't want to release the blue smoke and cause black smoke and fire while driving. Edit: Also it's hard to tell what temperature "Upper end of the line" on an analog 30 year old dash gauge is is, Find out what the switch temp is rated at, then point an IR thermometer at it and see if it's hotter than it should be. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 21:39 on May 2, 2014 |
|
#
?
May 2, 2014 21:36
|
|
|
Sorry, forgot to ad that line. IR thermomeger reads about 225-230 when it reaches the highest point. No relay just straight 14(?)g fused wire and switch on the fan.
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2014 21:45
|
|
|
I know that a lot of times Thermostats don't pop at the right temp, so maybe your switch is doo-doo If you want to test the switch you can toss it in some water and crank the stove up and check it with a meter and see if it opens at the right temp. UGH.. just read the part "Bottom of the Radiator" I'd say try and do a quick hardwired switch, or connect the 2 wires for the switch together to test before I messed around with the switch since it means draining the fluid. Just make sure you have a switch that's rated for the amps your fan pulls or be ready for a melty switch. edit: This is just to make sure your fan isn't screwy. See below for good input on how to do the switch. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 21:54 on May 2, 2014 |
|
#
?
May 2, 2014 21:50
|
|
|
I'd re-wire it so that the factory switch activates a relay, and then wire your manual switch in parallel to trigger the relay. Otherwise running full load from the fan to the cabin to a switch and back is going to add an awful lot of high-current wiring.
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2014 21:51
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:I'd re-wire it so that the factory switch activates a relay, and then wire your manual switch in parallel to trigger the relay. Otherwise running full load from the fan to the cabin to a switch and back is going to add an awful lot of high-current wiring. Not to mention the voltage drop from all that length.
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2014 21:52
|
|
|
One of the biggest issues I see with DIY wiring is too long of runs of high current connections. Pouillet's law states that resistance (R) equals a constant for each material (ρ) times length over cross sectional area.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2014 08:44
|
|
|
13 INCH DICK posted:In actual car related news, as the weather gets warmer I'm running hotter and hotter with no real clear reason why as of yet. I'm not using a drop of coolant, the level has remained full and the overflow level perfect since I did the fan switch a while back. I started going around replacing all engine ground wires, opening connectors, buffing and polishingeverything down to clean metal just to make sure that either funky grounds/powers were giving me innacurate gauge readings due to resistance, or maybe the fan wasn't getting enough juice, or whatever. The gauge temp sender is high on the engine on the back of the manifold by the carburetor, the fan switch is in the bottom of the radiator. I've checked my water pump belt tension. Noticed that the fan kicks on briefly to cycle once the temp gauge is actually beginning to point at the upper half of the line, well above the lower temp marking on the gauge, and that it runs for about 20 seconds before clicking back off. I dunno how he did it but my dad put some switch in his corvette and he would turn the fans on when it got to a certain temp (he had a temp gauge on the dash) because he said the fans didn't come on until too late for his tastes so I guess you could too?
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2014 09:24
|
|
|
Why didn't he just replace the fan switch with a lower temperature one?
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2014 09:47
|
|
|
I could look into that considering the wide array of aftermarket options available for my car
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2014 15:14
|
|
|
Get a Saab t fitting from the junkyard. You splice it into your radiator hose and it is threaded for the common big temp sensors used in everything European. You can then buy (pocket at the jy) 4 different temp switches, some with high and low settings for modern fans, and they're rated at 30amps or so, so you don't even need a relay (the VWs they're on use them straight to the battery with no relay). How big is your rad? It might then be worth getting a Volvo electric fan as they come with an easy to cut shroud, are 2 speed, and have a bitchin 2 speed relay setup. Couple this with one of the above switches and you have a bulletproof e fan setup.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2014 15:48
|
|
|
Radiator is about 16x16 with a 12" fan, seen here. Lotta unused real estate, the fan assembly itself is quite deep.  Mounts to the car via 4 bolts from the front of the car going inward, only Datsun 1200s have a similar mount and size from what I find, and apparently the Civic CVCC 1300/1500 radiators are too large to fit in the 1200 chassis according to the mk1 Civic forums.  Fan switch down at the bottom as well as fan connector, I've already removed thd terminals inside and de corroded them.  And a guy got super excited at a stop light because he didn't know they ever made a Turbo Civic that old  
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2014 16:56
|
|
|
Some thermometer readings along with visual on the gauge. 173*  206, fan first kicks on.  Peaked at 215 at idle, fan comes on for a few seconds, goes off for about 30 seconds, comes back on for about 5 seconds, etc. 
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2014 19:26
|
|
|
Can you feel cold spots on the radiator? Have you had the radiator rodded out? Its only about $50 here to have it done. System properly burped? A rad that small could be easily enveloped by a spal fan that should outflow that 40 year old setup. They're around $60-100 on eBay. E: it only runs for 5 seconds? There should be hysteresis to overshoot the on point to prevent that. Maybe the switch is bad? I stand by my more modern fan switch in a Saab t fitting with a modern fan. mafoose fucked around with this message at 19:31 on May 3, 2014 |
|
#
?
May 3, 2014 19:29
|
|
|
Radiator recording estimates around here range $300-400, and I'd have to leave it with them not giving me any other way aside from Seattle's wonderfully direct public transit system to get to work. Radiator spares are $Upshitcreek if I wanted to find a second one to just core and swap. One thing I found interesting was the upper hose and thermostat area got hot first, and the heat slowly crept downwards on the radiator until the lower hose and bottom heated up last. I'm not entirely sure it should do that, it seems to me if the thermostat is working properly it should be opposite that as the lower hose is closer to the water pump?
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2014 19:47
|
|
|
13 INCH DICK posted:Radiator recording estimates around here range $300-400, and I'd have to leave it with them not giving me any other way aside from Seattle's wonderfully direct public transit system to get to work. Radiator spares are $Upshitcreek if I wanted to find a second one to just core and swap. One thing I found interesting was the upper hose and thermostat area got hot first, and the heat slowly crept downwards on the radiator until the lower hose and bottom heated up last. I'm not entirely sure it should do that, it seems to me if the thermostat is working properly it should be opposite that as the lower hose is closer to the water pump? Distance doesn't matter, if the pump is discharging into the engine and out through the top hose, that's where warm water is gonna come out first. I can't think of any setups where it flows out the lower hose and up through the radiator, regardless of where the thermostat is located.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2014 20:15
|
|
|
Gotcha, just had it in my head that since heat rises, it makes sense to put the hot in the bottom so it can convect upwards.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2014 20:25
|
|
|
It's actually the opposite! Since the hot water is being cooled in the radiator, you want the hot water entering at the top; as it cools, it naturally wants to sink, which helps flow. Hot water does naturally rise to the top inside the block, which is why the outlet hose is generally near the top.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2014 20:41
|
|
|
This is cheap, looks like some brackets welded on and a custom lower hose and you'd be golden: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-ROW-FULL-...3517e52&vxp=mtr Also, I didn't mean recored. "Rodding" it the unbraze the end tanks, clean out the tubes with some rods, and rebraze them afterwards. E: With a kick rear end blue fan: http://www.ebay.com/itm/HIGH-CAPACI...137b8c3&vxp=mtr mafoose fucked around with this message at 21:44 on May 3, 2014 |
|
#
?
May 3, 2014 21:33
|
|
|
mafoose posted:E: With a kick rear end blue fan:
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2014 02:23
|
|
|
Are you sure the fan relay is good? Maybe its overheating internally and shutting off too early.
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2014 04:17
|
|
|
Hes a mechanic he probably already is aware that the blue one runs 10 degrees cooler. Fart Pipe posted:Are you sure the fan relay is good? Maybe its overheating internally and shutting off too early. Up above he mentioned no relay
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2014 04:18
|
|
|
Oh poo poo, I missed that.
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2014 04:19
|
|
|
InitialDave posted:Why didn't he just replace the fan switch with a lower temperature one? I bet it was because he probably had everything he needed to jerryrig it already rather than have to go out and get parts.
|
|
#
?
May 5, 2014 16:53
|
|
|
drat, how i have missed this thread? I love those little deathtraps where you are the crumple zone. I have -83 Suzuki Alto with 0.8ltr 3cyl engine.  Sorry for the crappy cellphone pic. Bought couple years ago when i needed road legal car for the winter. Now it has been off the road almost year after the headlights stopped working and there where little change anyway that it would pass the next vehicle inspection, so i left it waiting for better days.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2014 21:18
|
|
|
13 INCH DICK posted:One thing I found interesting was the upper hose and thermostat area got hot first, and the heat slowly crept downwards on the radiator until the lower hose and bottom heated up last. To me if the radiator was flowing like it should be then the heat spread would be more abrupt down the length of the core. Either you have a blockage, or the coolant isn't flowing like you expect.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2014 16:51
|
|
|
I CANNAE GIE 'ER ANY MORE CAP'N TIS ALL SHE HAS
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2014 18:42
|
|
|
Oh poo poo, 13" snapped and drove off a cliff
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2014 23:55
|
|
|
in a hurricane.
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2014 00:04
|
|
|
Just a few MPH less than the top speed of my Volvo 740 
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2014 00:04
|
|
|
How much was it shaking?
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2014 01:19
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 29, 2024 06:55 |
|
|
Well it started going limp around about 85 or so and once I crossed the 90 threshhold it had gone full turtle on me
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2014 01:21
|
|