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I have the bypassed NSS in mine as well, from a repair a few years ago. Every so often, mine does exactly what yours is doing. I usually jiggle the shifter around in Park a bit and it will start for me. You probably tried this already, but I figured I'd mention it because I spent an hour troubleshooting before I discovered that.
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Aug 23, 2014 13:30
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kastein posted:It's really pretty easy. Sucks bad if it's a 00+ with the precats, or if you have a few aftermarket headers that limit working space. Stock manifolds, I can have one back on in under an hour (once it's already off and cleaned up.) Well, that lays it out pretty much like I thought. It's 100% humidity and the air is essentially liquid today, so I'm not going to crack the block open, but it's time for another rockauto order. Thanks, kastein.
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Aug 23, 2014 15:23
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mod sassinator posted:drat XJ is still stranded in a parking lot with no cranking. There's power since all the accessories and lights work, but turning the key to start does nothing but turn on the dash lights (and I can hear the fuel pump). Some stuff I've done or think I've ruled out: Run one from the starter solenoid "input" terminal to the battery positive, if it works, it's the main positive cable to the starter that's the issue. Or run from the starter solenoid "output" terminal to the battery positive, if the starter spins, it's either a duff solenoid, or it's not getting the business from the ignition switch. Watch for the spark when you do this one. On a modern starter, it probably won't crank the engine without the solenoid to flick the pinion into the flywheel. What you can do is put the jump lead clamp on the solenoid "input" terminal in such a way that you can wiggle it to also make contact with the small terminal for the ignition key wire - this should let you "manually" crank the starter, regardless of the state of the ignition switch or shifter microswitch (or their respective wiring). You can also, if you can remove the solenoid on finding it's dead (not always easy to access), use a bit of bent wire to manually pull on the lever arm the throws the pinion out, and hit the starter terminal with the jump lead to spin it and crank the engine. This can be quite an entertaining trick to make work how you want it to, though.
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Aug 23, 2014 16:29
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This may not be specifically a jeep question but I replaced the power regulator on my wife's 2006 liberty a while back and while it works fine the motor doesn't automatically kick off when you roll it up. Basically once it's fully rolled up if you keep pushing the up switch there's a loud clicking / grinding noise like it's still trying to roll up. I'm assuming there's a limit switch somewhere that's not activating but no clue how or if it's fixable. It also rolls down fine and goes all the way down. It also deactivates as it should once it's fully down.
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Aug 24, 2014 17:05
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Keystoned posted:This may not be specifically a jeep question but I replaced the power regulator on my wife's 2006 liberty a while back and while it works fine the motor doesn't automatically kick off when you roll it up.
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Aug 24, 2014 17:10
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InitialDave posted:Was it a cog-driven lever arm type of regulator, or a cable-driven one? Cable driven. It was manufactured in late 2005 and they changed the style to a more reliable version in feb of 2006.
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Aug 24, 2014 20:17
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I'm going to say it's one of two things 1: Cable slipping on the capstan that drives it 2: Motor has a rubber-damped drive element that is failing, and allowing the motor to continue to turn even with the window closed. If you remove the door card again and run the motor to replicate the issue, it should be very obvious which it is. There likely isn't a limit switch, at best it uses the increased current draw to indicate an obstruction and cut power. More likely the motor just stalls out.
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Aug 24, 2014 20:30
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So I've been getting the itch to get something that is not entirely useless on anything rougher than a maintained dirt road to replace my Ranger. It'll still be used the vast majority of the time on the highway, so it seems like the best choice would be a WJ Grand Cherokee. XJs are tempting too but I think the overly-basic interior on even the later ones might still be a step down from the godawful Ranger, and the majority of the XJs for sale have already been modified considerably. WJs seem to be more often owned by people who never took them offroad. I already came across this, and while it's helpful, it's a few years old; I suspect that the majority of used WJs didn't already have 150k+ on them by then. A lot of what I'm coming across are in the 160-220k mile range. Anything I should be looking out for / avoiding on a WJ with that kind of usage?
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Aug 25, 2014 00:37
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That guide is actually pretty extensive and up to date. It was written in 2011-2012 it looks when WJs were a decade old. I've been researching WJs for months now since I'm thinking of buying one as a tow rig and off road toy. The biggest issue with the WJ is the 4.7L engine doesn't like overheating. I'd check to make sure the head gaskets look ok from the outside and the compression is good. The coolant should be HOAT which is orange or yellow, not green. If you see green coolant in the engine it'd be best not to buy. It causes the aluminum to corrode, so at least if you do buy it, immediately flush the system and install the correct fluid. The 4.0 engine in the WJ has the 42RE transmission, which I've read is not very good. The 4.7 uses the 545RFE which (other than in this thread) has an extremely good reputation for reliability. The rear end in the 4.0 models is the D35, but it is not a c-clip style. The 4.7 models get the Dana 44a, which aside from having an aluminum housing is stronger internally than an iron D44. I've followed build threads on various forums where guys are wheeling the stock D44a with a lunchbox locker on 35's with no problems for years and years. If you want to reinforce it, add a skid plate, diff cover, and truss (all available) along with either a lunchbox locker or ARB's new air locker will keep it going for a very long time. The NP247 transfer case in the Quadra-Trac II and Quadra-Drive models use specific Mopar fluid to work properly. Many times people put in regular ATF+4 and causes them to wear prematurely. ATF+4 is fine in the NP242 Selec-Trac transfer case though. Window regulators tend to die in the 120k mile range. Having said all that, it seems most of the reliability problems that seem common with the WJ (wrong coolant, transfer case fluids) are largely operator (or mechanic) error. There are tons of WJs in the high 100k-200k mile range that seem to truck right along.
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Aug 25, 2014 02:02
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I'm not planning on any sort of wheeling that would require those kinds of mods, at least not initially. I thoroughly expect that my abilities / willingness to continue as a driver will run out before a stock Jeep will. Point taken on the V8, I just don't have the towing caveat that you do. Towing would probably be a once a year thing at most if I have to move anything that won't fit inside it.
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Aug 25, 2014 02:50
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The 42re is definitely a shitpile. The 545rfe… I know plenty of people who have killed em but apparently they last if you are nice. Don't beat on it and change the fluid with the mopar recommended fluid. The 4.7 I can't say anything nice about, be nice to it, HOAT coolant as noted, DO NOT EVER OVERHEAT IT, hope for the best. If you blow one up, pull a shortblock at the junkyard (you want to pull the heads and check if the valve seats have dropped before buying it - believe me on this one) and put aftermarket/rebuilt heads with the tighter press fit valve seats on it. That way you won't blow another one up. The 4.0 in those is good, at least the shortblock is. The cylinder head is the 0331 casting known for cracking and filling the sump with coolant. If you get a 4.0 one, aim for 02.5 and later, make sure it has a TUPY 0331 casting on it not a regular 0331. You will be able to see TUPY cast into the top surface of the head if you look between the rockers under the oil fill cap.
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Aug 25, 2014 02:58
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Someone in this thread had a 2-door XJ they were stripping for parts for their 4-door. I had an interest in the upscale trim door panels for my base model, but I haven't seen anything about that project since. I don't recall who that was. Are you still here, and would you be interested in selling those door panels? I'm tired of the plain vinyl on mine, and I've put in power windows, so I have a superfluous hole in the panel as well.
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Aug 26, 2014 19:56
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Put a deposit down on an 03 WJ Limited. 4.7HO, towing package, QuadraDrive, and as far as I can tell drat near every box checked on the order list. 114k miles, stupidly clean, one owner, and a stack of mostly-dealership service records an inch thick going back to the original brochure and window sticker. Pictures on Friday when I get my hands on it for good.
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Aug 27, 2014 05:33
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IOwnCalculus posted:Put a deposit down on an 03 WJ Limited. 4.7HO, towing package, QuadraDrive, and as far as I can tell drat near every box checked on the order list. Nice. Wish I'd sprung for the HO myself, but I came across my Black Limited..and thought I got a good deal..how does the underbody look?
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Aug 27, 2014 05:49
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Solid and bone dry. It spent about a year in Washington State before they moved to AZ and has been here (and garaged) ever since. The only drop of any fluid on the whole thing is what looks to be oil splashed on one of the tie rod ends from a very recent oil change. Transmission, engine, transfer case, and axle backing plates all look dry.
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Aug 27, 2014 05:56
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ONE OF US ONE OF US ONE OF US
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Aug 27, 2014 05:57
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Lucky. Any mods incoming?
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Aug 27, 2014 08:42
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Not anytime soon. Aside from cleaning up any minor issues I find, I might pull the side step bars and brush guard since I think they might not be particularly structural. That and adding Bluetooth to it somehow.
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Aug 27, 2014 10:58
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IOwnCalculus posted:Put a deposit down on an 03 WJ Limited. 4.7HO, towing package, QuadraDrive, and as far as I can tell drat near every box checked on the order list. That's the exact one I want. What color? Not that I'm envious or anything. I'm keeping my budget under 4k, and it's not super easy to find that low mileage with the V8, tow package, and Quadra-Drive for that price.
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Aug 28, 2014 03:08
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Blue with a tan interior. And yeah, no way I could even dream of finding anything that nice here at $4k - at that price they're all kinda ratty and drat near 200k (or past it). I got it for $6k, KBB claims it would be worth just shy of $7k.
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Aug 28, 2014 03:57
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If my XJ's oil pressure sometimes drops to 10-15psi at hot idle (not all the time, but sometimes), should I step up to a heavier weight oil?
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Aug 28, 2014 15:21
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What are you running now?
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Aug 28, 2014 16:00
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wilfredmerriweathr posted:If my XJ's oil pressure sometimes drops to 10-15psi at hot idle (not all the time, but sometimes), should I step up to a heavier weight oil? Try cleaning out the passage leading to the sensor before you do anything drastic.
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Aug 28, 2014 18:07
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^^ I'll have to look into that.FreelanceSocialist posted:What are you running now? Guessing 10w30 because that's what I'm guessing the shop uses. I have a trusted mechanic down the street and they basically charge the same as it'd cost me to do it myself so I just have them do my changes. Was thinking about asking them to move to maybe a heavier oil but then again the winter is just around the corner and I don't remember it dipping below like 20psi last winter so I guess maybe I should just wait and see.
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Aug 28, 2014 20:10
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Fixed my no start issue with a new starter, so luckily the XJ is back on the road. However now I'm noticing the airbag light comes on every now and then and all the dash gauges will drop down to zero. If I press on a corner of the instrument cluster everything fires back to life. Probably just need to pop the dash off and clean the instrument cluster connector right?
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Aug 29, 2014 19:18
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mod sassinator posted:Fixed my no start issue with a new starter, so luckily the XJ is back on the road. Inspect any and all solder points in the cluster while you're at it.
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Aug 29, 2014 20:04
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A lot of WJ talk on this thread lately. I figure I'll add to that. I just replaced my 99 XJ with a 2002 WJ with 160,000 on the clock. Limited, 4.7, and Upcountry suspension. (the HO wasn't available with the upcountry suspension for some reason, you could only get one or the other. Normally it only ads about an inch or so, but the one on mine is a good 2-3 inches for some reason). Definitely check for any signs of the 4.7 ever overheating, that's the only bane of that engine from what I can tell, and keep up on fluid changes and use the right fluids. It won't take the neglect that a 4.0 will. The funny thing is, it's getting 3mpg better fuel economy than my old Cherokee with the I6 did. Having the extra power of that 4.7 is REALLY noticable (and very damned nice) when going up into the mountains, particularly on I-70 up to Floyd Hill (sup Colorado). the ride and interior is so, SO much nicer than the XJ, too. I'm spoiled now. especially with nice things like leather/power/memory/heated seats, dual zone climate control, a sunroof, a 10 disc CD changer, all these weird buttons on the steering wheel that do all sorts of things, not to mention having a rear seat that actual human beings can fit in. That 545 transmission is really, really nice as well, especially in the hills. Holy god damned I really am getting spoiled now.  I'll have to punish myself by taking the 75 volvo out tonight. IOwnCalculus posted:Blue with a tan interior. And yeah, no way I could even dream of finding anything that nice here at $4k - at that price they're all kinda ratty and drat near 200k (or past it). I got it for $6k, KBB claims it would be worth just shy of $7k. I paid $5k for my 02 (woodland brown, dark leather interior, all in really good shape) so it sounds like you got about the same level of deal I did, which is awesome. the A/C on mine didn't work, which is one reason it was only $5k. We monkeyed with it for less than 30 minutes. A/C works beautifully. Only other thing I've noticed on the WJ's that is a "common fault" is the EVIC console likes to lose the display/intermittently blanks the display. Mine was doing that so I pulled it, and we found a couple of broken solder joints, but that didn't resolve it sadly. Solution was to buy a new one off ebay for $50 bucks. Pops right in and worked like a charm. *shrug*. Doccers fucked around with this message at 20:38 on Aug 29, 2014 |
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Aug 29, 2014 20:34
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mod sassinator posted:Fixed my no start issue with a new starter, so luckily the XJ is back on the road. Yeah, TSB 08-15-99. http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/fixing-no-bus-message-gauge-cluster-88247/ The connectors were known for getting flaky. You can retension the pins or just install a new one. I'd recommend using better butt splices but it is entirely up to you. Mine did the same thing but I never cared enough to fix it, it was a good excuse to give the dashboard a solid whack, which it usually deserved for some other reason anyways.
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Aug 29, 2014 20:44
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kastein posted:Yeah, TSB 08-15-99. http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/fixing-no-bus-message-gauge-cluster-88247/ Yeah, mine does the same, I just rap the dashboard and it comes back. When I pull the dash to fix the blend door I'll fix it.
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Aug 29, 2014 21:26
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Spent most of the day getting super filthy digging in to replace my rear main seal and oil pan gasket. Motherfucker of a job, mostly because I don't think the pan had ever been off since it rolled off the line in 1988. The bolts all came out easily, although some were so caked with oil crud I had to clean them off first. After that the bastard just stayed stuck there - I hosed around for an hour or two, gingerly prying around the edges with thin flatheads and putty knives. I was able to loosen the front end a little, but the back stayed firm. I mashed on it for a bit with a rubber mallet which made excellent gong noises mocking me. Finally I removed the front driver's tire, stuck a wooden axe handle in through the suspension bits and up against the sump, and malleted the gently caress out of it. This was the magic key, and it popped right off. I had to take off the other tire/put a couple of bottle jacks on the axle and push it away from the frame/unbolt the transmission crossmember and lift it a hair to get enough clearance to get the damned pan out. Motherfucker. Of course, that was all easy and logical compared to the next hour+ I spent pretzeling my arms to scrape off the old, petrified (cork? obsidian? it's anyone's guess) gasket remnants on the rail. With that done, I scraped a very thick layer of ancient, caked oil off of the transmission flywheel cover thing. poo poo was thick. No surprise that when I tapped out the upper half of the rear main it was rock hard and cracked. Lower half wasn't in much better shape. Despite my best efforts, I pinched the edge of the new upper seal as it went in and sliced it up. What day wouldn't be complete without a trip to the parts store, right? $17 got me a FelPro set which came with a lovely little plastic shoehorn bit (gently caress you, Victor Reinz) - using that, the seal slid in easily. Cleaned the hell out of the bearing cap/mating surfaces, slipped in the bottom seal and put that swine back on. With great pleasure I lowered the pan into my electrolysis tub, to be electrocuted overnight. gently caress him - I'm glad I'm getting it all done with, but next time the bastard can just leak for all I care 
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Aug 30, 2014 04:07
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Finally sat down and went through all of the maintenance records on the WJ. Photos will have to come later when I'm not raging about getting my stupid drat Ranger backed into. This thing was seriously maintained - in the last 15k miles alone they had all of the following done: Crankshaft sensor Camshaft sensor Radiator Radiator hoses Coolant (correct red stuff) Thermostat Front axle gear oil Power steering pump Transfer case oil Rear brake pads Oil change x4 Plugs (correct Champion platinums) Valvecover gaskets Water pump The only thing I have any concern about is the invoice doesn't clarify what oil was used in the transfer case, just 'gear oil' from an independent. More annoyingly, the last time the dealer did it (about 60k before), the receipt says they used ATF+4  The only thing that seems to have never been touched is the suspension / steering, so I suspect tie rod ends and maybe some ball joints are in my future, along with at least a check in the transfer case to make sure it's not ATF+4 in there.
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Aug 30, 2014 07:13
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That would concern me - look at how much cooling system work has been done on it, I'd be afraid it's seen an overheat. and that engine does NOT like being overheated. (Iron block, alum head, can warp the poo poo out of it and I've even heard many tales of the valve seats dropping out of the head after an overheat occurs)
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Aug 30, 2014 07:59
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The majority of that work was done a tick after 100k, so whatever happened to it was 15k miles ago. It runs fine and pulls strong. The underhood is messy enough that I'd wager it was leak repair more than anything. There's enough "CUST STATES MIRROR MOVED POSITION, COULD NOT DUPLICATE" type poo poo and oil changes / spark plugs at ridiculously short intervals that I think the previous owners were just that anal about doing the whole job instead of part of it. I will say that the stereo is a bit of a mess - adding any bass in at all makes it muddy unless you crank the treble to the max.
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Aug 30, 2014 08:13
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Make sure they put the proper friction modifier fluid in those vari-lok diffs. I'm in Hawaii on my first vacation in about a decade and of course the day I get here a great deal on a WJ shows up back at home. 2001 WJ V8 with quadra drive and 148k miles for $3,500. That's the best deal I've seen in months of searching. Hopefully it's still there when I get back next week.
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Aug 30, 2014 08:33
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IOwnCalculus posted:The only thing I have any concern about is the invoice doesn't clarify what oil was used in the transfer case, just 'gear oil' from an independent. More annoyingly, the last time the dealer did it (about 60k before), the receipt says they used ATF+4 I really wouldn't worry about the ATF. NV247s used to run ATF4 but changed to a special oil to quiet it down a bit. Quite a few tcases spec ATF instead of gear oil, the np231 in TJs included.
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Aug 30, 2014 13:27
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IOwnCalculus posted:The majority of that work was done a tick after 100k, so whatever happened to it was 15k miles ago. It runs fine and pulls strong. The underhood is messy enough that I'd wager it was leak repair more than anything. There's enough "CUST STATES MIRROR MOVED POSITION, COULD NOT DUPLICATE" type poo poo and oil changes / spark plugs at ridiculously short intervals that I think the previous owners were just that anal about doing the whole job instead of part of it. Thats always good. I need to do a full fluids change on mine, and I'm considering actually just taking it to a dealership to do, just because I've never done that before heh.
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Aug 30, 2014 16:21
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BoostCreep posted:Make sure they put the proper friction modifier fluid in those vari-lok diffs. I think all of the references I saw on the fluid mentioned synthetic, I don't think I saw modifier called out specifically. Oddly the rear hasn't been done in a while so I'll plan on doing those fluids too. Also, I think it's never had the belt done, even with all of that accessory drive work, so add one of those to the list.
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Aug 30, 2014 17:31
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Doccers posted:That would concern me - look at how much cooling system work has been done on it, I'd be afraid it's seen an overheat. and that engine does NOT like being overheated. It's not particularly concerning given the maintenance schedules; Mopar HOAT coolant is 5 year/100K. (And, more often than not, people ignore the "5 year" part of that and just wait for 100K.) If you're already draining the system, it's a perfect time to swap the hoses. And the thermostat's right where the hoses are. And since you're already replacing everything else and you've got 100K on that water pump... None of it's particularly expensive, and it's a hell of a lot cheaper to do it together because you only pay for the coolant and the drain/fill once. Coolant and hoses and some convenient parts at around 100K on a vehicle with a solid service history? Feels like routine maintenance. Molten Llama fucked around with this message at 18:04 on Aug 30, 2014 |
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Aug 30, 2014 17:59
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IOwnCalculus posted:I think all of the references I saw on the fluid mentioned synthetic, I don't think I saw modifier called out specifically. Oddly the rear hasn't been done in a while so I'll plan on doing those fluids too. Here's a link with pictures and part numbers for both fluids. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/quadra-drive-247-vari-lok-differential-fluid-pictures-part-numbers-1115047/
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Aug 30, 2014 22:00
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There are a few variations on the instruction for how much friction modifier to put in the diffs, depending on the (Chrysler) documentation you read, and it seems an inconsistent mix per volume (e.g. recommending the same amount of modifier front and rear, despite the differing oil quantities in the axles). I use 7% friction modifier and it worked as it should. I think the idea of putting a given volume of modifier in both diffs is illogical, as then the rear mixture is much "weaker". I'm not sure about the US, but in Europe and the UK, the tranfer case oil changed to a Petronas product (Arbor MTF) at the time of the Fiat/Chrysler merger. Nothing wrong with it, save for only being able to buy it in gallon bottles, so you have a lot left over. They're not hard to change fluids on in a technical sense, but the lack of a drain on the gearbox or either axle means you have to pull the pans to do it which, although giving you zero excuses not to make sure everything is nice and clean, and to replace the gearbox filters, is a pain in the arse.
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Aug 30, 2014 23:43
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