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EightBit posted:Yeah, multi-ribbed serpentine belts ftw here. As long as you trust the factory tensioner. With the load on a serpentine belt, if the tensioner is too weak you're going to loving hear it. I don't think it's realistically possible for a spring-loaded tensioner to fail with too much tension instead of too little. mod sassinator posted:What size krikit do you need for the XJ's accessory belt? (too lazy to look stuff up if someone knows off hand) Seems like they only make two sizes - regular one for V-belts, the Krikit II for serpentine belts.
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Oct 30, 2014 19:35
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kastein posted:I'm not sure exactly how they work or how accurate they are but I don't know a better way to do it. Honestly I usually can't find mine so I usually go with "tighten it till it doesn't squeal" which I'm sure is great for my accessory drive bearings. I just remember tightening the belt on my 4.0 similar to tuning the high strings on a guitar. Constantly second guessing myself and expecting it to snap. A gauge would be nice here.
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Oct 30, 2014 20:02
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Did my air filter, oil, and cleaned the throttle body last night. Holy hell does that make a difference. So I have decided I want to do a 2 1/2-3 lift. What are the best places to buy from? I want all new leaf packs in the back since mine are..aged. I was thinking something like this.. http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep-suspension-lift-kit-630.html
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Oct 31, 2014 17:17
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Polish posted:
I did a ~3" lift last month, and I also needed new leafs. I priced out all of the entry level RE/RC/etc kits that came with packs. They're all pretty comparable as far as I could tell. Keep in mind those 3" kits typically don't include extended brake lines. If you're just driving to work that's fine, but if you want to go flex your suspension doing some actual offroading you probably want longer lines (plus your current ones might be shot anyway) I ended up piecing together my lift over a few weeks, as I was on a budget and wanted to save on shipping: Assuming you have an XJ...
Notes: The leaf packs are more like 4"+. If I was doing it again I'd get a 1" spacer for the front. Stock control arms should be fine for that size lift. I bent my front sway bar links my first 4x4 trip, so I'd factor in the cost of extended or disconnects if you plan on wheeling.
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Oct 31, 2014 18:47
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Thanks for the info! Haven't wheeled anything more than a dirt road yet since I am afraid of breaking my DD. But now that I am more comfortable fixing stuff I am thinking of going to the pine barrens in jersey with a local jeep club. Maybe piecing one together would be a better option for me so its not a huge initial purchase. Don't intend to do this until the spring anyways.. need one more winter of road salt on all the bolts as an excuse to drink more.
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Oct 31, 2014 19:28
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I put a Rough Country 3" lift on my XJ. No need for tcase drop, extended brake lines, hockey pucks, or any of that stuff. I also don't have time or patience to generally deal with Craigslist people, so I just bought a full kit right out for ~$500 plus a steering stabilizer and track bar. Your mileage may vary. The Jeep rode exceptionally well with the nitrogen shocks (which now come with the base kit) and the full replacement leaf packs.
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Oct 31, 2014 21:00
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I'd go for a full kit with new rear springs if you can too. Pretty much every single XJ I see nowadays has woefully worn out and sagging rear springs.
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Oct 31, 2014 23:06
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Yesterday was fun. I drove my MJ to pick up Slow Is Fast ' s jeep parts and on the way home my cooling system poo poo the bed. The best part is that I had just picked up parts for an open cooling system.  Now to order lines and a new water pump.
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Nov 1, 2014 13:52
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Take pictures of the dead wp, I love failed parts gore. And if you order through advance auto online and pickup in store, you can use coupon code trt30 to get 30% off.
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Nov 1, 2014 15:52
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Well that was annoying. Got to spend 15 minutes freezing my rear end off at a gas station while my YJ tried to make up its mind if it wanted to start or not. It drove there with no issues but after filling up with gas refused to start back up. It would turn over and occasionally the engine would sputter to life but once it did it had a distinct pinging sound and idled at around 200 rpm for a few second before stalling. Also a little bit of smoke came out the back. Bluish white, possibly just white. The gas station lights were a bit blue and made it hard to tell. Then I stood there cursing at it for a few minutes and gave it one last try before starting to google possible problems on my phone and it started right up and sounded fine. Maybe it doesnt like the cold.
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Nov 2, 2014 04:11
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Is that carbed? Vapor lock?
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Nov 2, 2014 05:41
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EightBit posted:Is that carbed? Vapor lock? Yeah, carbed. It's a 4.2. Vapor locks symptoms seem similar but it seems odd it would happen when the outside temp was near freezing instead of during all those summer miles I put on it.
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Nov 2, 2014 05:54
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Does anyone happen to know the shaft size/thread count for the steering shaft? I had to pull the steering wheel on my Cherokee, and the puller bolts broke and the puller slipped off and chewed up some threads. Now I can't get the nut that holds the steering wheel on and need to re-cut some threads. And as far as steering repairs go, I'm still mad about this:   (Steering Shaft Lock Ring)
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Nov 2, 2014 16:40
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1988 4.0 w/188,000 seems to have developed a bit of a mild knocking sound. I only hear it at idle after warmup/driving a few miles - never at first when the engine is cold, or when it's under load. I don't recall it ever doing this when I first bought it, but it seems to have started after I did a ton of work to it. Sounds exactly like this. There's a billion and a half subjects online and it seems all old 4.0s make some sort of noise, so I'm not too concerned. I haven't put a stethoscope on it yet but it seems to be coming from the back of the engine/bellhousing area. Checked my flexplate bolts, they're all tight. Couldn't spot any obvious cracks in it. New sparkplugs. Oil pressure is good. My knock sensor is busted, but I don't think that matters. Things I've done since purchase that might affect it?: Rear main seal (was extremely careful with the bearing cap removal/reinstallation) Seafoam/oil change (running 10w-30) Cleaned throttle body & IAC, new TPS Took off intake/exhaust manifold, had a couple of cracks in the exhaust manif. welded, reinstalled w/new gasket I'm happy to let it knock as long as it wants, assuming it's not going to chew up a piston and strand me in the middle of Death Valley when I go in a month. Should I try draining out the 10-30 and putting in something thicker? The fact that I only hear the knock once it's warmed up makes me think that might help. The Royal Nonesuch fucked around with this message at 02:36 on Nov 3, 2014 |
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Nov 3, 2014 02:23
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Whats the best (As in lets me gently caress up the most things) programmer for a 08 JK ? I need to delete the electronic swaybar disconnect as I am going manual. The tape over the flashing swaybar light on my dash is getting annoying. Ive heard the programmers can do it but I don't see it on the Diablo or Superchips websites. Also I don't think I need the heads up display model. While cool, I can do the same thing with a tablet and Torq app cant I ?
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Nov 3, 2014 07:21
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Diablo Trinity is the choice for the '12s because they were the first to crack the new encryption. Older JKs I'm not too sure. If nobody here knows you should have no problem finding it on jeepforum or wranglerforum. I've seen the conversation over there a bunch. Edit: Yeah torque will let you run a bunch of gauges on a tablet screen. Or a list of data, which is less intuitive but you see a bunch of stuff that doesn't translate to a gauge display.
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Nov 3, 2014 07:34
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I feel like this is going to start being a fairly common sight. Changing out the front axles. The old ones were gross. (and remans)  I also did an oil change. No real sign of sludge aside from the oil filler neck, but that seems a common place for oil to gather and cook. I stuck a screw driver in the oil drain hole and fished around for a bit. No signs of sludge. I'm going to cut into the oil filter this weekend when I install the lift to see what it looks like. It has a date of 12/31/13. The engine is running very well with 6 quarts of fresh 5w30 and a double size PureOne filter.
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Nov 3, 2014 09:16
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Which filter did you use? I'm all about running bigger filters when possible. Aired up the tires on the cars this morning since "winter" finally decided to show up, and noticed that my left rear has a seemingly-superficial crack in the sidewall that seems to follow the outside of the tread for four or five lugs. The tires are date coded from 2011 but methinks they're dry rotting and I definitely don't like the look of that since it seems like the very early stages of tread separation. Time to put in some offers on some JK wheels on Craigslist and grab some sort of A/Ts in 245/65R17.
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Nov 3, 2014 16:24
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PL30001. It was the largest filter I could find that people recommended for the 4.7. It's about twice as long and the same diameter as the stock one.
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Nov 3, 2014 17:46
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Nice. I've already got a few stock-style filters but when I go through those I'll probably upgrade. What's the clearance look like to everything else - it seemed like when I was last under there that the filter isn't in much danger of taking a hit from anything thanks to the angled mount.
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Nov 3, 2014 18:27
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 It may be time to get that stupid heater fixed.
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Nov 3, 2014 21:47
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IOwnCalculus posted:Nice. I've already got a few stock-style filters but when I go through those I'll probably upgrade. What's the clearance look like to everything else - it seemed like when I was last under there that the filter isn't in much danger of taking a hit from anything thanks to the angled mount. The filter is tucked pretty far up there. Very unlikely it'd take any hits. Plenty of room for the longer filter too, just not wider. It aims towards the front of the car.
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Nov 4, 2014 08:50
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Replacing my axle shaft u-joint and have a few questions: 1) How important is the little ring/shield thingy hanging off the outer end of my axle shaft in this picture (I bent it being an idiot and bent it back as best I could):  2) Any tips for getting badly rusted c-clips off of a u-joint? Beating them with a screwdriver/3 lb hammer isn't working. (Thanks to kastein for the bolt+steering wheel trick. Popped the bearing off really easily.)
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Nov 6, 2014 02:04
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That doesn't look like an ABS tone ring (those usually have teeth and are big and chunky) so it's probably non-essential. Seems odd that it'd be a heat shield though as I can't imagine a u-joint would be particularly disturbed by brake heat. It's probably to shield the back of the hub from grit. Take a look when you install it and use the hub with light hammer blows to straighten it out if it's still deranged. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 04:29 on Nov 6, 2014 |
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Nov 6, 2014 04:26
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I'm pretty sure its the thing the BleepinJeep guy damages in this video while doing something less stupid than what I did: http://youtu.be/KmWVbiHmJkI?t=1m58s
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Nov 6, 2014 04:52
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245/65R17 "Pathfinder" (Kumho) S A/Ts on 2014 17" JK Moabs. lovely nighttime photo. Also, I'm somewhat convinced about the strength of those step bars now. I didn't notice until they were lowering it back down but Discount had it jacked up on those full-length jacks, and they lifted it by the step bars. Didn't even flex at all when it came back down onto the wheels.
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Nov 6, 2014 05:02
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I was thinking of Pathfinders too. Good price and they come with a "Severe winter" badge so I can avoid snow chains in the mountains even at the highest advisory level.
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Nov 6, 2014 05:11
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I went with them partly because of the price, partly because they're really Kumho KL61s (so it's still a good tire, if not the most modern or aggressive thing out there), and partly because nearly every Discount in town has four in stock. I still need to get the spare swapped but I'll wait until next week for that. The ride smoothed out a fair bit - I'm pretty sure those old BFG Long Trail Tours were getting ready to chuck a tread or two.
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Nov 6, 2014 05:43
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Cat Hatter posted:Replacing my axle shaft u-joint and have a few questions: Figured this out myself.
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Nov 6, 2014 06:07
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Cat Hatter posted:because you hate yourself. The most important part of Jeep ownership.
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Nov 6, 2014 06:43
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What's the reliability like of modern Jeeps like the new Cherokee or late model year (~2012) Liberty? A friend of mine is looking for a newer car that can take him on hikes and backpacking trips in bad weather, haul a bit of stuff, and carry a kayak on its roof. We're thinking FJ Cruiser because he's not a car guy at all and wants something reliable, but the prices of them are kind of stupid (couple year used ones still go for over $30k). I'd like to look at a Liberty or Cherokee but am kinda leery it will have small issues that drive him crazy. Did the last model year of the Liberty switch to the nice 3.5 liter V6 in new Wranglers? edit: Looks like no on the better engine in the Liberty. Curious if anyone else has suggestions. I'm thinking of checking out Honda Ridgelines too--they're a bit bigger but get really good reviews. mod sassinator fucked around with this message at 06:53 on Nov 6, 2014 |
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Nov 6, 2014 06:49
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The Ridgeline isn't a true 4x4. I think only any 2 wheels can have traction at a time. My friend bought the new Cherokee Trailhawk a few months ago and it's extremely nice. The ride is very comfortable, gorgeous interior, and the looks have grown on me a lot. Especially in person. Plus it has a true locking rear diff and has been shown to be quite capable off road. I actually like it so much that I briefly thought about trading in my Fiesta for one before my wallet bitch slapped me upside the face. I can't comment on the Liberty.
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Nov 6, 2014 07:35
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IOwnCalculus posted:245/65R17 "Pathfinder" (Kumho) S A/Ts on 2014 17" JK Moabs. lovely nighttime photo. Looks sharp! Since my lift, I've wished I had tires a bit bigger, but I'm gonna have to hold off until I can justify it. Feeling better, so I'm probably gonna try to do a really good interior clean this weekend, as the weather's getting a bit chilly. I finally got around to uploading some videos I took last winter, they're here if anybody is interested. 09050002: http://youtu.be/CxsMsKwWLc0 08570005: http://youtu.be/KqHtzK60fRo 08570009: http://youtu.be/lrevgmvWHas
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Nov 6, 2014 07:48
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As I recall it's also the Odessey minivan platform.
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Nov 6, 2014 07:49
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Cat Hatter posted:I'm pretty sure its the thing the BleepinJeep guy damages in this video while doing something less stupid than what I did: I'm going to assume that he's never used a drift before.
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Nov 6, 2014 14:49
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First thing - bleepinjeep annoys the poo poo out of me. Not sure why.Cat Hatter posted:Replacing my axle shaft u-joint and have a few questions: Not important. If you want a new one, I've seen them somewhere, but chrysler doesn't sell them, rockauto doesn't either, and I can't find the dana/spicer part number ATM. I've never put one back on after smashing it up by accident, they end up in the trash and I forget about the whole thing. Put the axleshaft on an anvil or the back of your vise with one cap face down and another facing up at you. Whack the cap (not the shaft) enthusiastically with your hammer. The c clip for that cap should now come out without much of a fight. Flip it over and do it again on the other side. Repeat as necessary. So basically what you figured out, just make sure to remove each clip after you whack the cap it goes on. I don't even own an air hammer 
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Nov 6, 2014 15:38
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mod sassinator posted:What's the reliability like of modern Jeeps like the new Cherokee or late model year (~2012) Liberty?  So the Cherokee is pretty much the best of the second-worst, but I know there were still some teething problems with the 9-speed transmission. And yeah, like BoostCreep said, Honda doesn't build their AWD systems with the intent for it to work in situations where you have wheels with zero traction. The CR-V AWD just made the news recently for the fact that if you put the front wheels on rollers for a true zero-traction situation, it can't drive forward because the transfer case / rear end isn't capable of handing 100% of the engine's torque. So the computer just gives up instead of grenading something. kastein posted:First thing - bleepinjeep annoys the poo poo out of me. Not sure why. There's something strangely offputting about how he speaks. I can't figure out what but it's there. After about 45 seconds in: are you Scut Farkus?
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Nov 6, 2014 16:48
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drat my yellow eyes..
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Nov 6, 2014 17:31
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I'm changing my first idler pulley tonight  At least I hope that's what's making my new noise. It's a bit of a screech/whining sound, and when I took the tension off of it and rolled it with my finger it was a little rough. Not as smooth as it should probably spin? I love it when I research a repair and all I need to remove is one bolt.
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Nov 6, 2014 17:32
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Does anyone have a link to a 2000 XJ FSM in pdf.. or would that be considered  and I should just pony up 8 bucks to buy it?
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Nov 6, 2014 17:46
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