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BoostCreep posted:Ok so it's KIND of bright. Have you considered using a glowstick instead? Alternatively you could just solder in a resistor, which it definitely needs anyway.
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Nov 17, 2014 04:11
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So I dont want to drive my new Focus ST this winter so I'm trying to decide if I want to put a motor in my xj or buy another one or a zj as a winter beater. My current xj has 250k a locked up motor, suspension quirks and a slight growling noise when I'm on the gas in 4wd. I've been working a poo poo ton of OT lately, so I don't have time to change a motor, and the only place I can work on it is 35 miles away. All that combined with winter approaching faster than I'd like means I'd have to have a garage do the work. There's a zj with 130k for a grand down the road from me, i think I might check it out omw to work one day.
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Nov 17, 2014 04:19
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IOwnCalculus posted:Do Wranglers not do the thing where if you turn the key on/off/on/off/on it will spit out OBD2 codes on the odometer display like my WJ? The 2000 models don't, the '99 did. Not sure if they added it back in, but you'll need a code reader for 2000.
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Nov 17, 2014 05:01
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fps_bill posted:So I dont want to drive my new Focus ST this winter so I'm trying to decide if I want to put a motor in my xj or buy another one or a zj as a winter beater. My current xj has 250k a locked up motor, suspension quirks and a slight growling noise when I'm on the gas in 4wd. If you had time, I'd say it's time to make a stroker 
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Nov 17, 2014 05:02
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EightBit posted:The 2000 models don't, the '99 did. Not sure if they added it back in, but you'll need a code reader for 2000. My 02 does as well, so maybe you'll luck out? My BRAKE! warning light is and has been out for the entire time I've had it and on daya where the light is just right I can see a gear indicator strip in there unlit too..though I dunno if that's even offered here, I've never bothered to check up on it. All I did to the Jeep this weekend is air up the front passenger side tire that has a slow leak. 
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Nov 17, 2014 05:49
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gileadexile posted:My 02 does as well, so maybe you'll luck out? Low brake fluid?
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Nov 17, 2014 06:45
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Naw, just the light for the parking brake. I assume the bulb is burned out.
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Nov 17, 2014 08:07
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My ignition upgrade kit from Kolak finally arrived!   I'm not going to have any time to work on the jeep until this coming weekend, though. I don't expect this to take much time, but I'd rather not rush it before heading out the door to work.
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Nov 17, 2014 23:52
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Safety Dance posted:I just started TJ-Quest (my quest to find the perfect TJ) in earnest . Instead of the perfect TJ, I saw this guy: The cap is still there. its a two piece cap that broke apart so its just the base.
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Nov 18, 2014 00:11
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A cookie to anyone who can tell me what brand these control arms are. According to the guy selling them on Craigslist they are rock krawler brand for a JK. A friend has the rock krawler arms and these are def not it. I've searched just about every brand I know and I cannot find one that is adjustable on both ends like this one. I'm beginning to think they aren't even for a JK.  He's supposed to get me more pics on Wednesday. He's selling all 8 for $450. The rock krawler ones new are $1200.
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Nov 18, 2014 01:55
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mattfl posted:A cookie to anyone who can tell me what brand these control arms are. According to the guy selling them on Craigslist they are rock krawler brand for a JK. A friend has the rock krawler arms and these are def not it. I've searched just about every brand I know and I cannot find one that is adjustable on both ends like this one. I'm beginning to think they aren't even for a JK. I wouldn't pay $450 for them in that condition, to be honest. That's a weird combination of johnny joint (or some other higher angle joint) and rubber bushing, both of which look like they need to be replaced or rebuilt. Without a positive ID, you might not be able to service them properly, or have to hope the thread matches other aftermarket joints so you can swap them out.
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Nov 18, 2014 05:51
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I think I may have found the source of my cold idle issues: These little bastards (the disassembly instructions i found called it the venturi assembly) are completely clogged. I can't even jam a wire through them to clear them out. I don't know anything about carbs, but I'm assuming that's not good or normal.
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Nov 18, 2014 23:07
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Maybe not Jeep-specific, but does anyone know where to get dust seals for headlamps? I've only got one and I can't find them anywhere online besides one site that wants $15 a pop. (For a Hella H4) 
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Nov 19, 2014 00:59
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So I've got access to a cheap 1999 WJ 4.0 that I might steal the head from, anyone know if the WJ had a different casting than the XJ? Or were they all 0331 castings?
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Nov 19, 2014 01:08
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ewiley posted:So I've got access to a cheap 1999 WJ 4.0 that I might steal the head from, anyone know if the WJ had a different casting than the XJ? Or were they all 0331 castings? Didn't the casting problems start in 2000?
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Nov 19, 2014 02:02
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The list I found shows that 99+ WJs had the 0331 head casting. Other 4.0s had the 0331 casting in 2000 and later models. If you want to look, the casting number should be above the #4 exhaust port on the manifold side.
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Nov 19, 2014 02:06
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avoid any and all 0331 heads that do not also bear the TUPY casting mark between the cyl 3/4 rockers. Those came out in 02.5 and later. All 99-02.0 0331 heads (non TUPY) should be treated as suspect. Yes, it affects relatively few heads that haven't been abused or overheated. Do you know that head's past history with its last 3 owners, or feel like doing another head job? I don't. Once is enough so I will go with TUPY heads only. 0630s and 7120s are fine, but require extra fuckery to put on vehicles that came with 0331 heads.
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Nov 19, 2014 04:24
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What's the TorqueFlite 32RH transmission like from a reliability perspective? Will it outlast the 4.0 it's attached to?
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Nov 19, 2014 05:47
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kastein posted:avoid any and all 0331 heads that do not also bear the TUPY casting mark between the cyl 3/4 rockers. Those came out in 02.5 and later. All 99-02.0 0331 heads (non TUPY) should be treated as suspect. Cool, so the WJ and XJ have basically the same issue with the 4.0 heads. I'll take a look but it's probably not going to help with my 2000 XJ head replacement. Thanks!
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Nov 19, 2014 14:23
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I got my krikit tension gauge in the mail yesterday. I think tonight I may pull my MJ into the garage, turn on the heat and check my belt tension plus replace the belt on the YJ and remove the Al Qaeda style amp wiring from the MJ.
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Nov 19, 2014 15:47
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I just bought a 2014 Cherokee. Latitude, V6, auto, FWD. My first Jeep ever. It was sold to me as used because it had the transmission replaced, so I feel I got a pretty nice deal on it. Only has 1,100 miles on it. So far I'm loving it. Even though this has a brand new transmission with the latest firmware, I'm still going to be keeping a close eye on things considering the stories I've been hearing from others about the transmission issues. It does shift a tad jerky to 2nd and 3rd, but not enough to worry or annoy me. It's covered by the warranty so at least I have that peace of mind. I've noticed a periodic buzzing/rattling that seems to be coming from the lower steering column/dash area when accelerating. It goes away once the car warms up (I'm in the Midwest and it's been sub-30 degrees the last few days). Is this something I should be concerned about?
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Nov 19, 2014 20:17
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caiman posted:I've noticed a periodic buzzing/rattling that seems to be coming from the lower steering column/dash area when accelerating. It goes away once the car warms up (I'm in the Midwest and it's been sub-30 degrees the last few days). Is this something I should be concerned about? That car is so new that I don't think we have any idea if it's something to be concerned about. It's also basically a slightly lifted Alfa-Romeo Giulietta with a Jeep badge, so I don't know how much use we will be here. I personally really like the Trailhawk version, but I rode in my friend's yesterday and the transmission clunks and has crazy 1-2 second delays shifting from reverse to 1st and back. From what I've read, the transmission will be fine once Chrysler flashes the adaptive learn crap out of the programming. Really good idea, but too soon to be implemented correctly.
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Nov 20, 2014 01:32
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Anyone know what range the throttle position sensor readout in Torque should have for a 2000 TJ 4.0? I'm getting 14% to 77%, foot off the pedal and wide open, respectively.
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Nov 20, 2014 06:07
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Philip J Fry posted:Maybe not Jeep-specific, but does anyone know where to get dust seals for headlamps? I've only got one and I can't find them anywhere online besides one site that wants $15 a pop. Bikes use em. I may have 2-3 laying around in the garage. I'll check later.
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Nov 20, 2014 06:16
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EightBit posted:Anyone know what range the throttle position sensor readout in Torque should have for a 2000 TJ 4.0? I'm getting 14% to 77%, foot off the pedal and wide open, respectively. My 2003 TJ is also somewhere around these values. Even opening the throttle fully by hand didn't push it over the ~76-77% throttle position sensor reading.
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Nov 20, 2014 08:34
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caiman posted:I just bought a 2014 Cherokee. Latitude, V6, auto, FWD. My first Jeep ever. It was sold to me as used because it had the transmission replaced, so I feel I got a pretty nice deal on it. Only has 1,100 miles on it. So far I'm loving it. My fiance just leased a Chrystler 200 which I believe has the same transmission and problem. Dealer claimed it will "go away" in about 2000 miles or so. Luckily this car will go away in 3 years.. Also.. be sure to do the Jeep wave to every jacked up wrangler and cherokee you see.
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Nov 20, 2014 17:50
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Kastivich posted:My 2003 TJ is also somewhere around these values. Even opening the throttle fully by hand didn't push it over the ~76-77% throttle position sensor reading. Ok, cool. I was just poking around in Torque to see if there's an obvious reason that I'm getting a slightly rich idle, guess I can eliminate that. Am I a Jeep snob for only waving to lifted Wranglers/Cherokees that look like they've seen use off the pavement? 
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Nov 20, 2014 19:12
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Goddamnit. 5000 miles out of warranty and the HVAC fan decided to start making noise in the JK this morning. Seems to work fine other than being irritating as gently caress.
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Nov 20, 2014 20:38
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Godholio posted:Goddamnit. 5000 miles out of warranty and the HVAC fan decided to start making noise in the JK this morning. Seems to work fine other than being irritating as gently caress. Just Empty Every Pocket 
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Nov 20, 2014 20:44
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But it's almost x-mas; let other people empty their pockets for you.
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Nov 20, 2014 20:59
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Polish posted:My fiance just leased a Chrystler 200 which I believe has the same transmission and problem. Dealer claimed it will "go away" in about 2000 miles or so. Luckily this car will go away in 3 years.. It's supposed to "go away" because of the adaptive learning programming in the ECU is learning your driving habits. Once it fills it's memory with a broad enough range of driving habits it will stop learning and basically start applying what it's learned. Until then it runs in a sort of "limp mode" which causes problems. It's supposed to be done learning by 1,500 miles, but some people drive so similarly all the time that it takes up to 6,000 miles for the adaptive learn process to end. There's also the issue that some random batches of transmissions left the factory low on fluid, which exacerbated the problems. There's a TSB to flash the ECU to reduce the amount of requirements needed which will shorten the Adaptive learn process. It's the bottom one below: TRANSMISSION AND TRANSFER CASE 21-014-13 Flash: Transmission Diagnostic and Shift Enhancements 21-013-13 Transmission Shift Enhancements - Adaptation Learn Procedure Once the adaptive learn process is over with, people have reported that the transmission is silky smooth and working effortlessly. Just have to get to that point.
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Nov 20, 2014 21:11
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OK time to pull the trigger on a new head for the 2000 XJ. Do I go with J&C rebuit TUPY 0331 ($489) J&C NEW 0331 head ($539) Clearwater NEW 0331 ($580) They all come with new bolts and gaskets. I haven't heard overwhelmingly great things about either company, but people seem to be fine with them overall. The only other engine mods that I'm doing are a set of Banks torquetube headers, so I think I'd be fine with the reman TUPY. Any opinions?
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Nov 20, 2014 21:25
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I'd just go to the junkyard, swing a dead cat and let go. It lands on a 02.5 to 04 4.0L WJ with a thrashed transmission, rust, or collision damage. Remove its head, pay $50, bring it home. Bonus: now you have a pocketful of random fasteners you're going to drop, forget, or break on yours, and you know how the drat thing comes out and which special-ish tools you're going to need. (one of those special-ish tools is a deep well 12 point socket, 1/2" drive, for the head bolts. I forget what size it is but it's SAE, likely 1/2", 9/16", or 5/8".)
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Nov 20, 2014 22:03
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Philip J Fry posted:But it's almost x-mas; let other people empty their pockets for you. Christmas means a $20 amazon card.  I'm hoping to Black Friday my way into a set of Duratracs...we'll see what DT's offering.
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Nov 21, 2014 03:29
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I bought a belt from NAPA for my 88 Comanche's 4.0 engine and it fits loosely even with the tension adjustment tightened as much as possible. I can't even get the tension above 90 lbs. I was looking at the belt sizes available on Amazon and Rock Auto and it appears that for my vehicle, the sizes vary as much as an inch and a half. Should I get a smaller belt?
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Nov 21, 2014 13:17
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Yes. Having played around with custom belt setups on my LS1 - an inch can make all the difference.
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Nov 21, 2014 14:08
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Yes, but compare the length of the belts first and also make sure you have it routed correctly. That isn't as dumb as it sounds, I dropped by my neighbors place a few years back when I saw a hood open in the driveway with him just staring at it... turns out there wasn't a belt routing diagram under the hood and they had gotten it wrong. It was so close to fitting.
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Nov 21, 2014 14:14
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kastein posted:Yes, but compare the length of the belts first and also make sure you have it routed correctly. That isn't as dumb as it sounds, I dropped by my neighbors place a few years back when I saw a hood open in the driveway with him just staring at it... turns out there wasn't a belt routing diagram under the hood and they had gotten it wrong. It was so close to fitting. It's routed the same way as it is on my wrangler. I've also beel driving it to work and home with it routed this way so I assume it's on correctly.  I'll double check the current belt length when I get home. Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 14:48 on Nov 21, 2014 |
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Nov 21, 2014 14:29
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Godholio posted:Christmas means a $20 amazon card. I whole heartedly recommend this. I just put some Duratecs on my XJ and they are unbelievably quiet.
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Nov 21, 2014 14:55
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Sandbagger SA posted:It's routed the same way as it is on my wrangler. I've also beel driving it to work and home with it routed this way so I assume it's on correctly. Excellent, that looks right to me. Maybe the PO put the wrong size idler pulley on it? I didn't see anything out of the ordinary though. So yeah, you're probably right about it being the wrong belt.
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Nov 21, 2014 15:31
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