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Justy windshield day was a success! There was some not insignificant rust, I wirewheeled it all off and put urethane primer over while my friend the master automotive glazier prepped the windshield. It should be fine for a couple years, I am going to buy a new windshield on rockauto in a while to keep as a spare and see if I can get factory gasket/trim sets on hand (they don't do aftermarket ones, unsurprisingly) and weld new metal in if it becomes an issue again. My friend said when he asked his boss if he had ever done "a 609" (glass guy parlance for an FW609, Justy front windshield) his boss was like "what the gently caress is that?!" So apparently I am the only person to have a new windshield put in a justy in something like 10 or 15 years there. Only slightly larger than a lawn tractor  Old gross cracked windshield out. We determined the rust was caused by the previous replacement windshield installer being a cretin with a utility knife and gouging the paint in the windshield bond flange area, then not properly covering it with urethane primer.  New windshield in!  So fresh, so clean  Also aired up the 3 flat tires on the MJ and the flat tire on the XJ and drove them into the yard, since they had been along the sides of the dirt road I live on, right where I parked them in 3 feet of snow and was uninterested in moving them further. Remaining repairs on Justy before it is registered and inspected: Headlamp/turn signal switch Left headlamp housing (may not be needed but I am doing it anyways) Horn button slipring cleanup Headlight relay drive swap Rear right swaybar link mount repair - thanks for the broken suspension, New York Install rear seatbelts I got for it, since they were removed and lost by some PO Other stuff: Needs new tires sooner rather than later Make the fuel fill neck stop backing up and stopping the pump Brake bleed Un hamfuck the audio install (aka remove gangle of stray wires) Balance shaft chain tensioner and/or chain repairs Rust prevention Rear struts probably kastein fucked around with this message at 21:02 on Apr 3, 2015 |
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Apr 3, 2015 03:28
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PhotoKirk posted:Isn't that the same model of car that Jackie Chan drove in Cannonball Run? E: I was wrong. This ain't no Justy.  IMCDB says it's a 1980 Subaru DL. So it's a 3-door Leone hatch, right? KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 18:04 on Apr 10, 2015 |
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Apr 10, 2015 17:59
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Subaru is dumb and uses model names and trim packages as each other alternately. Words that have been both model names and trim packages: GL DL Outback (iirc) Impreza (iirc) If jeep did this we'd have the jeep grand cherokee laredo sport and also the laredo cherokee edition, and maybe a comanche laredo cherokee.  In other news, I blew 160 bucks on a switch stalk set for it, brand new old stock off ebay. They arrive Monday, naturally. It turns out that full horn current is passed through the horn switch (  ) which is run through a slipring or some sort of bushing almost like a throwout bushing, so either this is all part of the same stalk switch pack I'm replacing momentarily anyways, or it's in the same general area and I'll tear the old one apart, figure out what's wrong with it, clean it up and/or reinstall or repair as needed. I guess I'll add retrofitting a horn relay to the list of stuff to do along with the headlamp relay drive upgrade.Also another 2WD 5 speed 1994 showed up at a junkyard in Englewood CO yesterday. Anyone feel like pulling parts off it?! (I have a couple non-SA friends in the area, as well.) Stuff I'd want: - oil pan (this is a bastard to remove, so don't worry too much about it) - left headlamp housing - harmonic balancer, timing belt sprockets, plastic timing covers, balance shaft, balance shaft chain sprockets and guide, every bolt removed during disassembly (these are also a bastard, you'll have to undo a motor mount. Don't sweat it if no one feels like doing this.) I already have the metal timing cover, but if it looks alright, I'll gladly buy another, they're a known weak point. - rear shocks if they aren't completely shagged out.
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Apr 10, 2015 18:19
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kastein posted:
Well we DO have a "Renegade" now that used to be a trim package on a CJ/YJ.
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Apr 10, 2015 18:35
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kastein posted:Subaru is dumb and uses model names and trim packages as each other alternately. GL/DL are annoying ones, yes. Impreza is always a model, outback is always a trim package. A legacy outback is a lifted legacy with two tone, an impreza outback is basically the same thing. Foresters are weird because it's an impreza that was squished into an ugly box.
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Apr 10, 2015 21:59
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chrisgt posted:GL/DL are annoying ones, yes. Outback is also a discrete model.
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Apr 10, 2015 22:55
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I thought outback was the model and legacy was the trim? Like outback sport vs legacy outback
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Apr 10, 2015 23:17
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Ozmiander posted:Outback is also a discrete model. The Outback was originally called the "Legacy Outback" when it came to the US. Eventually it dropped the "Legacy" part of the name and became just the "Outback." This is also what recently happened with the WRX and STI; in Subaru documentation - including trunk badges - the cars go from the "Impreza WRX" and "Impreza WRX STI" to just "WRX" and "STI." The "Outback Sport" nomenclature always refers to the Impreza Outback Sport, which is now called the "XV Crosstrek." Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 23:27 on Apr 10, 2015 |
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Apr 10, 2015 23:25
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Like I said it is loving stupid.
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Apr 11, 2015 00:58
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Ozmiander posted:Outback is also a discrete model. It's like he's forgotten about The World's First Sport Utility Wagon or something.
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Apr 11, 2015 14:48
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Victory  New stalk cluster for the Justy arrived today so I got home from work and immediately dug in. Instrument cluster shroud off, steering wheel off, column clamshells off, column undercover off, switch off, reassembly is reverse of disassembly. New stalk cluster:  What the hell is all that gold glitter?  Found the issue with the horn not working, I think:  Yeah...  Horn: works! Blinkers: work, and stop working when appropriate! Low beams: work! The connector for the headlight switch was super melty and the contacts in the switch itself were scorched and corroded but I think I can recover it, clean the whole thing up, put a new horn plunger in it and either keep it as a spare or sell it to some other poor bastard for 50 to 100 bucks. Junkyards are getting 75 each in used, untested condition for this part... Oh yeah, washed all the plastics I took out, so it looks a little cleaner inside too. E: oh and Tremek spotted something familiar on Murilee Martin's Down on the Junkyard blog: http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2015/04/junkyard-find-1993-subaru-justy/ That's my donor car! Several months prior to us getting there, though, as the ham handed fuckwit who destroyed most of the timing components to get the balance shaft out hadn't touched it yet. Wish I had gotten there then, the engine was likely a perfectly good complete drop-in assembly at that point 
kastein fucked around with this message at 05:17 on Apr 14, 2015 |
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Apr 14, 2015 05:13
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New headlight is on the Justy and I got a spare alternator for it, too. Did a lot of research and it turns out there are two failure points on this motor. They are right next to each other. The oil pump cover plate loves to crack or the oring fails. Your oil pressure drops to zero and the engine dies. Or the pump impeller cants sideways in its bore and eats into the back of the cover, then the oil pressure drops and people run em for a long time without realizing because the dummy light only comes on at 3-5psi and no one has any mechanical sympathy. Why does the pump impeller go sideways? Because instead of a bearing or bushing, it spins in a straight 12.47mm hole in the cast aluminum timing cover, which is 489 dollars new from the dealer. And the new one will fail the same way. Fortunately I know half a dozen people with cnc mills, bridgeports, lathes, etc and one just bought his, so he is itching to try complex machining out. Ehehehehehe well I have just the project for him... I estimate it should be possible in a few hours of It will require a 14x8x2.5 blank if machined from billet instead of cast though  so it looks like installing a bushing in a stock one comes first because the next size that will fit is like 370 bucks worth of 6061, which would be enough to make two covers, though I only need one. Here's the thread I found on doing that: http://subarujusty.proboards.com/thread/2201
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Apr 18, 2015 18:01
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kastein posted:New headlight is on the Justy and I got a spare alternator for it, too. I really need to get to know some guys with CNC, for just this sort of thing. At least I have access to manual mills and a big lathe right now.
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Apr 18, 2015 18:22
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I can't wait to see the new KenTech™ billet timing covers. Agreed that hogging out the hole and dropping in a fresh bushing is the way to go, though.
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Apr 18, 2015 20:13
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kastein posted:Why does the pump impeller go sideways? Because instead of a bearing or bushing, it spins in a straight 12.47mm hole in the cast aluminum timing cover, which is 489 dollars new from the dealer. And the new one will fail the same way. This is the cheesiest Mickey Mouse poo poo. I'd expect to see something like this on the cheapest Chinese weedwackers, not on a thing that people drive on expressways. You'd think they'd save the $0.50 per car somewhere else, instead of turning the $500 timing cover into a wear item 
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Apr 18, 2015 22:31
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To be fair, it probably wasn't $489 when the car was new. Subaru NLA/NOS parts pricing is eyewatering when it isn't VIN-locked.
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Apr 19, 2015 00:27
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Black88GTA posted:This is the cheesiest Mickey Mouse poo poo. I'd expect to see something like this on the cheapest Chinese weedwackers, not on a thing that people drive on expressways. Fun fact, they still haven't loving learned, the EJ motors have the cams riding directly on the aluminum cylinder head instead of in a bearing. At least they supply pressurized oil to those though...
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Apr 19, 2015 02:32
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kastein posted:Fun fact, they still haven't loving learned, the EJ motors have the cams riding directly on the aluminum cylinder head instead of in a bearing. At least they supply pressurized oil to those though... I'm surprised that Subaru hasn't just said "gently caress it" with their motors and thrown airfoil bearings in 'em with a notice of "The pistons are now a PM wear item."
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Apr 19, 2015 13:52
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kastein posted:Fun fact, they still haven't loving learned, the EJ motors have the cams riding directly on the aluminum cylinder head instead of in a bearing. At least they supply pressurized oil to those though... To be fair, subaru cams almost always outlast the crank, so it's a moot point ...
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Apr 19, 2015 14:56
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Yesterday was subframe day on my aunt's 1997 rav4. Rav4 1stgen front subframes have serious rust issues due to poor design and lack of drainage. Look ma, no subframe! Fortunately no bolts broke so it only took about an hour and a half to get the old one out. When I pulled the junkyard donor one, the front bolts to the frame rails both broke their welded thimble nuts loose and I had to butcher the frame rails with a chisel and a pair of vise grips to get a visegrip on them, so I had feared the worst.  Old subframe was turbofucked. Failed inspection for the rust hole in the middle where the exhaust kept chemistry working faster, they didn't even notice that both front mounting horns had rotted out due to inadequate drainage, poor rustproofing inside, and gravity.    I initially thought I could just cut the welds and transfer the good mounting horn to the new subframe. Let's screwdriver test it first, shall we?   ... oh. Nevermind. New subframe wasn't much better but only one horn was rotted and the exhaust hadn't perforated the center yet. I checked the other horn with a screwdriver and a mallet without it going through. This is after the wirewheel, punch, and brakleen took away years of rust, road garbage, and oil buildup.    Guess it is time to cut off one side at a time (to preserve geometry) and weld on custom cut and formed 1/8" plate patches, then.    The welds are nothing to write home about as I was welding ~14ga plate to 1/8 plate with non ideal fitment in some spots, so I did blow through and stack boogers to fill the hole a few times, but it is stronger than stock and will hold until the rest of the chassis collapses in a cloud of rust so it is good enough. I drowned the outside in paint and will be blasting the inside with eastwood internal frame coating and then paint next time I am at the parents place to fix poo poo, since I don't want it rotting out from the inside again. Slammed it back in after dinner. It needs some rust repair to a rear coil bucket on the unibody (appears to be another inadequate drainage issue, ie failure in design) and an alignment and then it gets booked for inspection again.
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Apr 21, 2015 02:13
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Hahaha what the gently caress I'm never moving to New England. Y'all are some kind of automotive masochists up there. Good work though bud it looks good.
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Apr 21, 2015 02:29
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The winning combination for new england is to have a garage, summer cars that you brought from somewhere else or bought new, and a progression of abominable 500 dollar winter beaters that you buy before winter, slap together for inspection, then sell in the spring 6 months before the sticker expires. At least, that is the best way I can think of to handle it. So far, I just have the abominable beaters...
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Apr 21, 2015 03:24
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Who needs nice cars when the beaters are fun to beat on? As long as you have enough of them that you can ensure that one of them will always be running well enough to get you to and from work.
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Apr 21, 2015 03:30
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I think I'm doing the beater thing wrong. I've had a $650 Craigslist car for 9 years now, and have been putting actual money into it lately. Also, it's lowered and made of the shittiest rust-prone Japanese steel, so it's obviously an awesome choice for a winter car in an area where it snows and they salt the roads 
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Apr 21, 2015 03:38
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Justy is now registered, and is one simple welding repair from being inspectable. Threw the replacement lug stud in tonight. Also checked all four wheel bearings and the front balljoints. Oh wait, two. I need to bolt the (rear) seatbelts in. Guess I will do that during lunch tomorrow.  Realized I can touch the passenger window from the drivers seat without leaning over. Also need to check the driveshaft ujoints and choose new tires for it, the current ones are pretty dry rotted and haggard. kastein fucked around with this message at 05:02 on Apr 22, 2015 |
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Apr 22, 2015 04:54
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kastein posted:Fun fact, they still haven't loving learned, the EJ motors have the cams riding directly on the aluminum cylinder head instead of in a bearing. At least they supply pressurized oil to those though... Honda B (90+ Integra, 99-00 Civic Si) and D (88-05 Civic) series engines do the same. Probably F (90-02 Accord) and H (92+ Prelude) as well, since they're from the same time period. You turbofuck the head and cams if your oil pressure drops even for a second. Ask me how I know. 
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Apr 22, 2015 07:54
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some texas redneck posted:Honda B (90+ Integra, 99-00 Civic Si) and D (88-05 Civic) series engines do the same. Probably F (90-02 Accord) and H (92+ Prelude) as well, since they're from the same time period. IIRC, the Mopar 2.2 / 2.5 in the K-cars is the same.
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Apr 22, 2015 07:54
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Nearly every ohc engine I've dealt with does that. Especially motorcycle engines. while it is penny pinching engineering, it does work.
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Apr 22, 2015 14:19
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Any luck finding alloy wheels for it yet?
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Apr 22, 2015 15:23
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Went on a junkyard pilgrimage. Some people do bar crawls on weekends, or go to a million strip clubs, I look in my wallet and go holy gently caress I have a bajillion ones in here! Look how many junkyards I can pay entry fee at! Stuff I went in looking for: Tires for a 2000 forester Wheels and tires for a 1997 rav4 Rear chassis cuts for a 1997 rav4 to patch the rusted coil perches Interior pieces for a 2000 forester Timing cover bits for a 2000 forester Things I found and bought: A $128 set of four alloys for the forester Whoops.  Also spent a lot of time in the back yard measuring engines and trucks. It looks like I can fit the new engine in the MJ if I lose some unimportant things like a two inch deep beer bottle size section of firewall, a cig pack sized section of firewall, the heater core feedlines, a few pinch welds, the radiator fan, the hood, some sections of floor, and possibly parts of the frame rails. Didn't need that poo poo anyways right?  The T444E is simply not going to fit in the 5 ton however. It is several inches too wide to clear the power steering box. So it looks like I am back to my original plan of a 6CTA8.3 or 6BT5.9 in that. Sad, because the T444E was 500 bucks cheaper than the cheapest 5.9 I can find.
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Apr 26, 2015 03:17
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kastein posted:The T444E is simply not going to fit in the 5 ton however. It is several inches too wide to clear the power steering box. So it looks like I am back to my original plan of a 6CTA8.3 or 6BT5.9 in that. Sad, because the T444E was 500 bucks cheaper than the cheapest 5.9 I can find. As long as your kind-of-roof shelters you adequately from the Endor forest-moon rains, and the subaru gets you down the "driveway" to work, I fail to see what better ways you have to waste $500 on. Unless it's a V8 swap into one of the MJs, because I'm standing by with an open text document waiting to take notes.
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Apr 26, 2015 04:07
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:Unless it's a V8 swap into one of the MJs, because I'm standing by with an open text document waiting to take notes. Don't the AMC V8s and the AMC I6s have the same engine mounts on one side, and just a different sized one on the other side? Plus, I think they're the same bellhousing pattern.
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Apr 26, 2015 04:27
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I am still looking for a sub thousand dollar viper V10 (lol) to put in, but I do have two V8s sitting in the back of the 5 ton specifically to put into MJs. Also a number of other engines whose homes I have not yet decided. The T444E would probably fit in an MJ but ehhhhhhhhh I would rather not build a T444E MJ, it is way too big and heavy for them. AMC V8s do fit the same bell as the 258/4.0 but they never came with EFI and all the options for it aren't cheap or aren't compatible with the late model XJ interior swap I have planned. I've got a 94 5.9 v8 from a dodge 2500 and a 98 5.2 v8 from a dodge 1500 to choose from, if I go v8 that is. I've got a few other things in mind but haven't fully decided yet.
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Apr 26, 2015 04:29
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Isn't the GM TBI a pretty common swap on those? That aside, what's wrong with a carburetor or two? Hotrod it out.
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Apr 26, 2015 04:35
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kastein posted:I am still looking for a sub thousand dollar viper V10 (lol) to put in, but I do have two V8s sitting in the back of the 5 ton specifically to put into MJs. Also a number of other engines whose homes I have not yet decided. By the time you plated enough of the frame to support it, your MJ would weigh as much as a new ram 3500.
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Apr 26, 2015 04:42
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Raluek posted:Isn't the GM TBI a pretty common swap on those? That aside, what's wrong with a carburetor or two? Hotrod it out. I am going to do everyone a favor and pretend you never said this.
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Apr 26, 2015 04:52
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Oh come on. I'm an EE nerdlinger too; not everything has to be high tech. Dual 4-barrel Holleys have their own attraction. Side dump exhaust, bugcatcher.
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Apr 26, 2015 05:23
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Can you stop making GBS threads up/trolling my thread please? The answer is no. gently caress no. I've got no problem with you, but... no. That is not happening and that is loving final.
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Apr 26, 2015 10:26
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kastein posted:The T444E is simply not going to fit in the 5 ton however. It is several inches too wide to clear the power steering box. So it looks like I am back to my original plan of a 6CTA8.3 or 6BT5.9 in that. Sad, because the T444E was 500 bucks cheaper than the cheapest 5.9 I can find. The real shame is the T444E is an extremely bulletproof engine and I think some of the aftermarket Power stroke stuff might work with it. Really though with all the lifting of walls in your house, you should be strong enough to not need power steering. Have you considered the DT466? drat thing started life as a 70s tractor engine but it is still IH's best motor (mainly because the 6.OH NO! sucks so much).
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Apr 26, 2015 13:08
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Yeah, I was really hoping the T444E would fit, I was very tempted by the $300 pricetag. Yes, 99% of it is the same as a powerstroke 7.3 - the ECU and a few other things are different, and it's painted blue. Sadly with tires a foot wide (soon to be 15" wide) that have something like 4000lbs resting on each one, power steering is a must. Else I would swap a deuce steering column in and forget about it. I strongly considered the DT466 as well since they are pretty cheap but as I recall, they are too long to fit behind the radiator. So are cummins N14s and N855s/big cam motors/NHC250s etc.
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Apr 26, 2015 16:03
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