|
Decided to swap out the front speakers because they sounded like hot garbage, got a set of Kenwoods on Amazon for 20 bux. gently caress vapor barriers in the rear end, the "tar" they use leaks out the bottom of the door and gets all over everything.  Welp.    New hotness, sounds ten times better now!  New steering wheel   Next up is work on the family shitbox (Camry), I'm so excited! Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 03:34 on Dec 17, 2015 |
#
?
Dec 16, 2015 20:58
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 13, 2024 13:27 |
|
|
Awww yissss. That little poo poo box is awesome and fully getting the care it needs. And I'm excited to see camry stuff because after Xmas my camry is getting new struts all around. Which if you have owned that car long, or any other toyota you have replaced them before.
|
|
#
?
Dec 16, 2015 23:13
|
|
|
leica posted:Displacement says 1500 so I wonder what motor is in it or if that's a mistake. It has gauges below the radio some I'm guessing it's a turbo, but yet it doesn't even have alloy wheels. 80's and 90's JDM cars are kings of weird and wonderful packages, from fully loaded with everything you can think of plus many more things you can't imagine, to absolute stripper models with nothing but the top-tier engine option. When I was a kid my mum drove a JDM used import 1981 Mitsubishi Sigma Turbo. It had the 2l turbo Sirius engine with a 5 speed, but the only other thing on it was electric (hockey-stick) mirrors. No AC, manual windows, and steelies with hub caps and chrome trim rings. Getting back to BG's, one of my ladyfriends in the 90's had a BG Familia sedan with the 1.8 BPT, AWD and steelies. Man that thing was stupid fast for what it was, and it helped that she lived on a great twisty mountain road.
|
|
#
?
Dec 16, 2015 23:37
|
|
|
SouthsideSaint posted:Awww yissss. That little poo poo box is awesome and fully getting the care it needs. And I'm excited to see camry stuff because after Xmas my camry is getting new struts all around. Which if you have owned that car long, or any other toyota you have replaced them before. Fully loaded struts already sitting in the shed  kris_b posted:Getting back to BG's, one of my ladyfriends in the 90's had a BG Familia sedan with the 1.8 BPT, AWD and steelies. Man that thing was stupid fast for what it was, and it helped that she lived on a great twisty mountain road. I'm really happy with the SOHC 1.8, can barely tell the difference between the DOHC tbh. 1st gear is a little weak but 2nd, 3rd, and 4th pull really well, reminds me of my BP Kia with just a little less top end. No need for a motor swap at all unless I was gonna go FE3 or something.
|
|
#
?
Dec 17, 2015 00:55
|
|
|
leica posted:Fully loaded struts already sitting in the shed What brand are you going with ? I'm on the fence about spending more then I payed for the car on four struts fully loaded.
|
|
#
?
Dec 17, 2015 01:10
|
|
|
I got the FCS struts. It was worth it for my Camry because it's mint and will last forever down here, once I swap them out all it will need for the next 100k is oil changes, brake pads and maybe a timing belt.
|
|
#
?
Dec 17, 2015 01:32
|
|
|
That black garbage is actually butyl rubber, BTW. Miserable poo poo to work with, makes me almost glad we urethane windshields in instead of using butyl and gaskets like previous generations did. I never used to bother with new speakers, since I'm not very picky, but I put a set of new speakers in the Forester and it really improved my enjoyment of my daily commute, so I'll be replacing the speakers in any vehicle I intend to drive for a significant period of time in the future. I've always just lived with factory speakers till they rattled, then put junkyard ones in... but it really is night and day.
|
|
#
?
Dec 17, 2015 01:39
|
|
|
Yeah these were rattling big time to the point it was driving me insane just listening to talk radio. The 6.5" Kenwoods and Pioneers are so cheap now there's no reason not to replace them, sounds so much better. I'm probably gonna throw in a deck as well since an entry level Pioneer with CD/MP3/AUX in as well as pre outs is only 50 bucks. I'd probably keep the stock cassette player if it worked right but it's all hosed up.
|
|
#
?
Dec 17, 2015 01:50
|
|
|
I've got all sorts of goodies waiting for my shitbox. Got a passenger side mirror since mine doesn't have one (super stripper model, I don't even have intermittent wipers). Also got a door pull handle to replace the broken one. Something also happened that when I floor it in 1st and 2nd, the wheel turns 45 degrees. I think a control arm bushing failed. Poly front bushings are on their way, along with all new struts, tie rods, ball joints, brake hoses, and even got a cheap set of 250lb coil overs to try on ($50 lol). New motor mounts are getting window welded, and I think I might start autocrossing it. My speaker all look like that but sound surprisingly good. I might install a double din Kenwood I can't seem to unload, and get some decent speakers as well. I wish the body wasn't junk, I'd turbo this or swap an itb dohc 1.8 in a heartbeat.
|
|
#
?
Dec 17, 2015 02:55
|
|
|
leica posted:Yeah these were rattling big time to the point it was driving me insane just listening to talk radio. The 6.5" Kenwoods and Pioneers are so cheap now there's no reason not to replace them, sounds so much better. I'm probably gonna throw in a deck as well since an entry level Pioneer with CD/MP3/AUX in as well as pre outs is only 50 bucks. I'd probably keep the stock cassette player if it worked right but it's all hosed up. Just remembered that I still have speakers in the NA; gently caress I'm lazy as hell. e: I rescind my offer of trying to find my old, lovely Pioneer deck from 2008. Phone fucked around with this message at 06:19 on Dec 17, 2015 |
|
#
?
Dec 17, 2015 06:17
|
|
|
Decent speakers? I still need a pair for the rear deck eventually, but if they're just run of the mill it ain't worth shipping them anyway. I also love some of the older decks, they were built a lot better than ones you get these days.
|
|
#
?
Dec 17, 2015 06:33
|
|
|
Just want to reiterate how lovely this butyl crap is. Apparently it can't handle the Florida heat and just melts and leaks, going out the bottom of the door onto the door sills and whatever happens to touch the bottom of the door and/or sills. I completely removed it from my Miata because it was getting all over the sills and it was a total PITA to get it all completely off the doors. What should be a thin bead of butyl ends up looking like this:    Also the car drew first blood today. ITS ON MOTHERFUCKER. 
|
|
#
?
Dec 17, 2015 21:14
|
|
|
leica posted:Also the car drew first blood today. ITS ON MOTHERFUCKER. It ruined your camera?
|
|
#
?
Dec 17, 2015 21:30
|
|
|
Lol just another dumb effect I used on imgur. I thought about having the steelies sand blasted just to make my life a little easier, but for $25 each I dunno. I'm just gonna spray paint them flat black anyways so why bother, gonna see how they turn out with the wire wheel on the drill. Or maybe try my pressure washer full blast, maybe that would help get some of the surface rust off easier?
|
|
#
?
Dec 17, 2015 23:43
|
|
|
Honestly, considering where you are I bet my red scotchbrite pad + etch primer + duplicolor wheel paint combo will work like a charm. It seems to be holding up pretty well to the salt so far, knock on wood.
|
|
#
?
Dec 17, 2015 23:47
|
|
|
I was thinking more like flat black primer+paint combo in one can, 2 coats 
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2015 00:03
|
|
|
Black wheels always look like poo poo, though. I'd at least throw a handful of colour at it. Can't go wrong with gold.
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2015 00:04
|
|
|
I thought about going silver for the stock look, that might actually help when ever I need to sell it I guess, but personally I like black much better.
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2015 00:23
|
|
|
Welp it's time to work on the family shitboxes now I guess, the Protege and Miata are gonna have to take a back seat until I take care of the Camry issues  These Camrys are famous for both the inside and outside door handles breaking.   On the drivers door both the inside and outside are hosed.  At least the butyl is in better shape on this car.  Also while the panel is off I need to fix the speaker wire which I routed next to the rubber wire tube because I couldn't get it through. As you can see I already tried to fix it half assed once already, now it's time to get serious and violate the door holes.  Spliced the wire inside the car with heat shrink crimp connectors then ran the new lead lubed up with shinetsu grease and it slid right through! Should have done that the first time, I'm an idiot.  Speaker back in and you can see the new handle installed. Got a set of four inside handles and one outside for the driver's door off Amazon cheap.  Old vs. new, color is a bit of but i don't give any fucks.  Still looks pretty good for a painted door handle off Amazon for 15 bucks, better than unpainted black that's for sure.  Shortly after I finished that job the battery on Grandma's HHR took a poo poo. Of course it's in the rear hatch, and of course the hatch is electronically controlled, and of course I didn't think of this and had to Macgyver a way to open it without the right tools from the inside across town. We found a pair of scissors that were long and flat enough for me to push the release open and get it jumped to drive it home.  It's an '06 and the battery is original, so not too bad, it lasted ten loving years! This car is lovely to drive, but overall it's very dependable so I'm not gonna complain about it or ever talk bad about HHR's so screw you if you have a problem with them. I've blown out the rear shocks using it like a truck and it never complained, although now the rear end bounces like a bounce house  New hotness installed, this one will probably last four years. 
Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 18:56 on Jan 2, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2016 18:49
|
|
|
That camry is so much better looking than mine. Seriously you don't see that style in nice condition around Chicago. Also I had a customer have his HHR battery last ten years and three months. It's where there stored and the vent tubes that make the difference.
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2016 19:01
|
|
|
That makes sense, but Miata batteries are the same and don't last nearly as long  The camry was our neighbor's who passed away. Her daughter gave it to us after we helped her with the estate. It's close to 200k and was maintained well, there was a stack of maintenance records but the daughter shredded them! No biggie, all I was worried about was the timing belt, and I'll get a peek at that soon when i replace the valve cover gasket.
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2016 19:40
|
|
|
Ahhh yes indeed it's strut time   Aaaaaand already hit a roadblock  
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2016 20:46
|
|
|
leica posted:Ahhh yes indeed it's strut time Haha. My car was maintained well and has the same problems yours does. Except if I remember you have the passenger axle going bad. I have the driver side busted open. What struts are those?
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2016 22:52
|
|
|
They're FCS struts. I just got a new boot, got the hub off the axle and started wondering why the gently caress am I even bothering with the boot and should just replace the drat axle, it's only 60 bucks. Almost 20 bucks for the boot lol. [e] Or I could just drive it until it starts making noise, but then it will just poo poo grease all over. gently caress. [e2] Jesus Christ gently caress doing the passenger side axle for a pinhole leak. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TAX4K1Btt0o Looks like I'm putting it back together and replacing the tie rod end i destroyed for nothing 
Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 23:52 on Jan 2, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2016 23:31
|
|
|
This is the hole I'm dealing with, big enough to be a problem, but not big enough to take out the drat axle me thinks. You can see where i tried to RTV it before. Think I'm gonna try a bike tube patch or something else to slow it down, other than that gently caress it because the work entailed to replacing the axle isn't worth it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2016 00:18
|
|
|
leica posted:This is the hole I'm dealing with, big enough to be a problem, but not big enough to take out the drat axle me thinks. Go to the exhaust section of your local auto parts store, they have a self fusing silicone tape like this http://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/industrial-brands/high-performance/specialty-products/Leak-Seal-Tape/ It's like 5 bucks and it's magic for simple poo poo like that. I've seen guys use it on 3" water hose that hits ~100psi.
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2016 00:26
|
|
|
I still can't get my head around how fresh that thing looks underneath. I've had a couple BG's (1989-92) and everything metal has always been at least very rust-colored. The nuts on that drop link look like you could, like, take them off, which is something that to me just doesn't seem to happen. Stupid climate. leica posted:Think I'm gonna try a bike tube patch or something else to slow it down, other than that gently caress it because the work entailed to replacing the axle isn't worth it. Maybe one of those "split boots"? Only tried it once (on a Volvo axle I had out of the car but was too stupid to figure out how to get the CV joint apart). It did seem alright but fell apart after a couple months, but maybe you're not a klutz.
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2016 00:27
|
|
|
Powershift posted:Go to the exhaust section of your local auto parts store, they have a self fusing silicone tape like this http://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/industrial-brands/high-performance/specialty-products/Leak-Seal-Tape/ Oh poo poo that looks like the ticket for sure, says my local Home depot has it....Thanks man!
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2016 00:37
|
|
|
Was thinking about trying this with a funnel but if it didn't work I'd be hosed https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=so9gMxzJH4k Taking back the new boot, getting a new tie rod end and some of that tape. So much for getting the struts in today!
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2016 00:54
|
|
|
Can I use the silicon tape to fix the destroyed CV boot on my bus's axle that has been ripped open since I bought it 1600 miles away five months ago?
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2016 00:54
|
|
|
leica posted:Oh poo poo that looks like the ticket for sure, says my local Home depot has it....Thanks man! Nashua Stretch & Seal is probably easier for you to get and is (I think) very similar. You can even use it on rad hoses. There's a variant that's fuel safe, but I don't think the regular kind is. You can also use it to de-rice aftermarket hoses: http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticles/ID/2093/Wrench-Tips-24--Silicone-Hoses-for-Adults.aspx I carry a roll in my travel toolbox.
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2016 00:57
|
|
|
Geirskogul posted:Can I use the silicon tape to fix the destroyed CV boot on my bus's axle that has been ripped open since I bought it 1600 miles away five months ago? possibly. it will stick to some kinds of rubber, clean the grease off with alcohol first. it doesn't have a whole lot of tensile strength, so it really isn't all that good at holding a full split. it might not stick to time cured rubber, but it can completely surround the split, and basically make it's on little exterior boot. I used it to fix the filler neck on my coolant expansion tank and it worked pretty drat well. Basically, you can make a hose out of it by wrapping it around a tube overlapping itself. and then sliding the tube out. it's 5 bucks for a 10 foot roll. if you're really lazy, it's definitely worth experimenting with. i've been told if you cure it with a blow torch, you can basically make yourself a new radiator hose on the side of the road.
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2016 01:05
|
|
|
That silicone tape really only works well when it's stretched and wrapped tightly around something, and over itself a fair few times. It's great for sealing a hole in a hose, probably not going to seal a flexible rubber boot that you don't want tight to the CV underneath. Rubber is really difficult to glue structurally, and a CV boot flexes a ton. Pump some extra grease through the hole, clean it really well and use something akin to 3M Scotch-Weld PR100 on the inner faces of the crack. That's about the best chance you've got. Epoxy might work too, but unless you're really tidy with it, it'll just make a harder spot and the rubber will break around the glue. I'd just put a split boot on it, personally.
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2016 01:08
|
|
|
Nobody has that tape in stock, it's all online only, found out after i went to HD to get it. What the gently caress. Good point about it with a CV boot, it's not sturdy at all so I wouldn't be able to pull it tight like on a hose or something. Think I'm gonna try the bike tube patch and see what happens and if that doesn't work I'll get a split boot I guess. [e] ended up using some Loctite flexible adhesive I had. Sanded down the surface and cleaned with alcohol then slathered it on inside the hole and all around it. I'll find out if it holds or not, gonna have to keep an eye on it. Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 02:51 on Jan 3, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2016 01:53
|
|
|
Nothing a half a roll of gorilla tape won't fix.
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2016 05:01
|
|
|
Patch job: Also just found out the axle nut needs to be torqued to 217 ft lbs and my torque wrench only goes to 150 
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2016 05:09
|
|
|
leica posted:Patch job: Dang, that's like BAP BAP BAP BAP BAP BAP BAP BAP BAP or thereabouts.
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2016 07:28
|
|
|
leica posted:Shortly after I finished that job the battery on Grandma's HHR took a poo poo. Of course it's in the rear hatch, and of course the hatch is electronically controlled, and of course I didn't think of this and had to Macgyver a way to open it without the right tools from the inside across town. We found a pair of scissors that were long and flat enough for me to push the release open and get it jumped to drive it home. Open the hood next time, there's a positive terminal on the fusebox for exactly that situation. Positive to that terminal (should have a red cap on it), and the negative "terminal" is probably a bolt on the radiator support (but using one of the bolts on a strut tower works fine too).SouthsideSaint posted:That camry is so much better looking than mine. Seriously you don't see that style in nice condition around Chicago. Also I had a customer have his HHR battery last ten years and three months. It's where there stored and the vent tubes that make the difference. My Ion has the battery in the back as well (and sadly, it's on the same platform as the HHR). The original battery conked out near the end of the summer, car has a build date of 6/2005 (it's a 2006 model year).
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2016 07:29
|
|
|
leica posted:Patch job: The rental one from o'reilly's should go up to 250 or 300. I'd call to make sure.
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2016 07:31
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 13, 2024 13:27 |
|
|
some texas redneck posted:Open the hood next time, there's a positive terminal on the fusebox for exactly that situation. Now that you mention this I remember it. Hahaha I'm an idiot. Or I just like to make things difficult for myself, I can't figure out which. [e] I think my neighbor might have the right torque wrench, gonna hit him up in the morning. Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 08:02 on Jan 3, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2016 08:00
|
|