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scuz posted:The Honda dealership was gonna charge my buddy $1,460 for a brake-and-rotor job which to me sounded insane for an 8 year-old car. Those stupid rotor retention screws were all stripped out and I tried drilling them but it didn't work. Luckily the rotors are in decent shape so they didn't need to be replaced, but I'm curious what can be done to get those things outta there. Probably a stupid move on my part, trying to drill them out. Did you break the drill bit off? I've always gotten them off with a hand impact driver with JIS bits. You could probably get them torched out, they're 100% there for retention, so even if you leave the stubs broken off in the hub, it won't matter. You could also go after then with a carbide rotary burr.
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Aug 10, 2016 18:41
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CommieGIR posted:This is pretty normal. Celebrating our 10 year anniversary this Friday, and we had our issues, even briefly both considered divorce, so we dated other people, and realized that we didn't have it bad at all. My wife and I have had major arguments over the dumbest poo poo, but probably the most common is my shop time, and the differing opinions we have about what is equitable, and included. Sorry hun, but no I don't agree that yardwork should be counted toward my personal time. 
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Aug 10, 2016 18:41
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sharkytm posted:Did you break the drill bit off? I've always gotten them off with a hand impact driver with JIS bits. You could probably get them torched out, they're 100% there for retention, so even if you leave the stubs broken off in the hub, it won't matter. You could also go after then with a carbide rotary burr. Safety Dance posted:Try a left handed drill bit, or starting with a sharp drill bit. Sharp bits and drilling at the right speed makes all the difference in the world. 
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Aug 10, 2016 18:52
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SCA Enthusiast posted:I have a question for our Australian friends: I fall pretty strongly on the side of holden in the retarded holden v ford thing that goes along down here but i would give nuts for the pursuit special (i would rather have the stolen hq at the start tho).
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Aug 10, 2016 18:56
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angryrobots posted:My wife and I have had major arguments over the dumbest poo poo, but probably the most common is my shop time, and the differing opinions we have about what is equitable, and included. Thankfully, we're both hermits and she respect that I want to spend time in the garage and she wants time for her hobbies.
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Aug 10, 2016 19:00
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scuz posted:I did break the drill bit, but only after I was able to sorta-kinda drill the head of the screw into tiny pieces so all that I could see there was the screw shaft but no head so I was curious as to how the rotors could still be stuck on. If the head was mostly gone, you could just pound the poo poo out of the rotor from the back side, it'll come off, then just remove the rest of the screw, or leave it there to keep the replacement indexed.
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Aug 10, 2016 19:55
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EVERYWHERE 
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meatpimp posted:If the head was mostly gone, you could just pound the poo poo out of the rotor from the back side, it'll come off, then just remove the rest of the screw, or leave it there to keep the replacement indexed.
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Aug 10, 2016 19:57
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scuz posted:The Honda dealership was gonna charge my buddy $1,460 for a brake-and-rotor job which to me sounded insane for an 8 year-old car. Those stupid rotor retention screws were all stripped out and I tried drilling them but it didn't work. Luckily the rotors are in decent shape so they didn't need to be replaced, but I'm curious what can be done to get those things outta there. Probably a stupid move on my part, trying to drill them out. If you're changing the disc you can just get the grinder out
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Aug 10, 2016 20:00
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sharkytm posted:Did you break the drill bit off? I've always gotten them off with a hand impact driver with JIS bits. You could probably get them torched out, they're 100% there for retention, so even if you leave the stubs broken off in the hub, it won't matter. You could also go after then with a carbide rotary burr. This is what I did with every Mazda brake rotor I have replaced. I hit it with PB blaster and one of those screw extractors that you hit with a hammer. When that didn't work I went from smaller to bigger sized drill bits until the head was gone. Then did what meatpimp suggested with beating the hell out of the rotor to get it off. If the rotor is not coming off easily then you either having drilled the head off enough or you have a seized rotor on the hub, which will require copious amounts of PB
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Aug 10, 2016 20:09
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fridge corn posted:If you're changing the disc you can just get the grinder out
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Aug 10, 2016 20:24
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At some point in your life you have to beat the poo poo out of a brake disc until it comes off in pieces.
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Aug 10, 2016 20:25
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I've been given a new Avensis as a courtesy car while mine's in the shop, and the seating position is horrible if you're tall. I'm all legs and the seat easily goes far back enough, but the wheel doesn't come with it and sits way too low so it ends up down between my knees with me hunched forward to reach. Meanwhile even with the seat all the way down my head is almost on the roof and I can't adjust the rear view mirror up high enough. Makes me wonder how car companies design the adjustability of all the controls. The seat goes far back enough that even I can stretch my comedy legs out, but nothing else matches. Do companies actually design this stuff in a joined-up fashion or is each bit designed in a silo and just slapped together at the end?
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Aug 10, 2016 20:30
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scuz posted:Hmm. Was thinking about this last night but now that I've had some space I think I can apply the grinder in such a way to further our efforts. Don't just beat on it. There are threaded holes in the rotor that let you put in a pair of M6 (iirc) bolts to push the rotor off the hub. Tighten those up, whack the rotor a few times, tighten them again, lather rinse repeat. I live near the ocean, in the NE, and I've never had too much trouble with Honda rotors. You can also take a cutoff wheel and cut a square into the rotor around the screw. Remove the rotor, then you can grind the remains off. Like I said, rotary burrs work really well on the cast rotor material.
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Aug 10, 2016 20:35
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jammyozzy posted:I've been given a new Avensis as a courtesy car while mine's in the shop, and the seating position is horrible if you're tall. I'm all legs and the seat easily goes far back enough, but the wheel doesn't come with it and sits way too low so it ends up down between my knees with me hunched forward to reach. Meanwhile even with the seat all the way down my head is almost on the roof and I can't adjust the rear view mirror up high enough. I work for Toyota, they don't design poo poo with regards anything not Japanese, so it's a miracle you fit at all.
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Aug 10, 2016 20:42
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angryrobots posted:drat, that's something to come back from. Ask her if housework/washing clothes/etc. count toward her personal time.
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Aug 10, 2016 20:44
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SCA Enthusiast posted:I have a question for our Australian friends: I dont know a single Aussie that isnt an inbred fuckwit that doesnt think The Interceptor is the greatest thing ever
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Aug 10, 2016 20:57
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sharkytm posted:Don't just beat on it. There are threaded holes in the rotor that let you put in a pair of M6 (iirc) bolts to push the rotor off the hub. Tighten those up, whack the rotor a few times, tighten them again, lather rinse repeat. I live near the ocean, in the NE, and I've never had too much trouble with Honda rotors. You can also take a cutoff wheel and cut a square into the rotor around the screw. Remove the rotor, then you can grind the remains off. Like I said, rotary burrs work really well on the cast rotor material.
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Aug 10, 2016 21:00
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The wife was quite surprised that a 2007 silver Solstice with 24,500 miles on it was sitting in the garage yesterday for her. Once I detail it I will post pictures.
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Aug 10, 2016 21:06
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Darchangel posted:Ask her if housework/washing clothes/etc. count toward her personal time. 
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Aug 10, 2016 21:41
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angryrobots posted:See, you have to understand...that would be unfair/misogynistic. Hand her a weed whacker and tell her to get to town then.
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Aug 10, 2016 21:48
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CommieGIR posted:Graphics? I need something with non Intel Video for a 3D printer station. I think the T510 has a Quadro, I'll check. It's a quad core, 8GB, 256GB, WXGA+. Was our kitchen computer for the last few years.
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Aug 10, 2016 21:52
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Super Aggro Crag posted:Hand her a weed whacker and tell her to get to town then. I dont know about you, but a woman that needs a weed whacker for down there hair is probably a bit short on personal hygeine
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Aug 10, 2016 22:00
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the spyder posted:I think the T510 has a Quadro, I'll check. It's a quad core, 8GB, 256GB, WXGA+. Was our kitchen computer for the last few years. Let me know!
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Aug 10, 2016 22:25
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freelop posted:Up to Barrow-In-Furness. I've worked in barrow a lot and have always thought it was a proper shithole. My Condolences. It is however surrounded by some very pretty and quite pleasant countryside!
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Aug 10, 2016 22:32
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Tomarse posted:It is however surrounded by some very pretty and quite pleasant countryside!
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Aug 10, 2016 23:09
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ratbert90 posted:The wife was quite surprised that a 2007 silver Solstice with 24,500 miles on it was sitting in the garage yesterday for her. Once I detail it I will post pictures. Surprised or disappointed? 
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Aug 10, 2016 23:12
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Big Daddy Keynes posted:I fall pretty strongly on the side of holden in the retarded holden v ford thing that goes along down here but i would give nuts for the pursuit special (i would rather have the stolen hq at the start tho). Thanks. I watched Mad Max recently and needed to know.
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Aug 11, 2016 01:30
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:I dont know a single Aussie that isnt an inbred fuckwit that doesnt think The Interceptor is the greatest thing ever Supercharger... ON A SWITCH
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Aug 11, 2016 01:30
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Never could figure out what was wrong with the Denon A/V receiver I had connected to my computer for sound. Everything checks out fine, just no noise comes out through the wires (or out of the headphone jack). So I ended up just replacing it, and now I have sound again. Didn't really realize how much I use the sound on my computer until I didn't have it.
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Aug 11, 2016 02:47
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Rhyno posted:Surprised or disappointed? Very surprised
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Aug 11, 2016 03:30
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The Locator posted:Never could figure out what was wrong with the Denon A/V receiver I had connected to my computer for sound. Everything checks out fine, just no noise comes out through the wires (or out of the headphone jack). I had a Denon A/V Receiver gently caress up today, too! Girlfriend wanted to watch the Olympics and I hadn't set up the antennae yet, so got that on the wall and started thumbing through the menus to get ARC enabled. ARC's on the receiver, cool. TV... Sound... Speakers -> Receiver, click boom, now my TV remote controls the volume on the receiver, neato... but there's no sound. Why isn't there any sound? It's enabled, the remote(s) work, but nothing. Swap out the HDMI cable, nothing. HDMI IN 1 (STB) HDMI IN 2 (ARC) HDMI IN 3 HDMI IN 4 (DVI) Ooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh, I get it. Swap the cable from HDMI 1 to HDMI 2 and now we can watch the Olympics in Stereophonic Quadravision. Also kids, the people on the internet weren't lying when they said that built-in speakers were a cardboard toilet paper roll base with a piezo buzzer driver.
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Aug 11, 2016 03:53
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Wasn't there someone in AI with unlimited Carfax reports? I've found a decent-looking little pickup on dealer craigslist and I want to check on the history... $3950 for a 1996 Ranger with 80k miles, seems low compared to some of the poo poo I've seen in Craigslist's for sale by owner section.
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Aug 11, 2016 04:02
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You know, I had a build all planned out for my computer. I upgraded the PSU and graphics card over the last year, and I bought some DDR4 ram that's currently sitting in my closet. All that was left was a mobo/processor/case. Like $5-600 all told. (E: well, more "replaced" than "upgraded" on the PSU; it's more efficient, but dropped from 850W to 450 because that's all I need; the old one was pushing 8 years old) But, man... I read these horror story threads about dudes getting $60 grand in debt and I think "you know, my games/3d modeling and sim programs are running pretty good as is. I think I'll hold off til I'm employed instead of blowing my pell grant leftovers."
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Aug 11, 2016 04:24
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The PSU and RAM are the only things I think need any attention in this PC. It's a 5 year old i5-2500k system. Still runs everything I use perfectly fine. The only reason I think the PSU needs attention: it's a Corsair builder series (CX500), which is supposedly low quality, and I may be pushing it pretty hard with 4 internal drives. Dropping in a SSD made this thing feel like a new system. RAM... I downgraded it to 8GB in order to bump my mom's PC up a bit. I'd like to bring it back to 16GB.
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Aug 11, 2016 04:57
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Phone posted:Also kids, the people on the internet weren't lying when they said that built-in speakers were a cardboard toilet paper roll base with a piezo buzzer driver. Truer words were never spoken. I don't think I've used the built-in speakers on anything in my house in well over a decade, except for an Amazon Alexa thingie in my hobby room. I get annoyed when monitors come with speakers, as it just makes them larger, heavier, and more expensive for something I'll never use.
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Aug 11, 2016 05:00
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Enourmo posted:You know, I had a build all planned out for my computer. I upgraded the PSU and graphics card over the last year, and I bought some DDR4 ram that's currently sitting in my closet. All that was left was a mobo/processor/case. Like $5-600 all told. (E: well, more "replaced" than "upgraded" on the PSU; it's more efficient, but dropped from 850W to 450 because that's all I need; the old one was pushing 8 years old) This is the smart way to be. I'm still paying on my student debts, and wish I'd never taken the loans.
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Aug 11, 2016 05:32
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some texas redneck posted:The PSU and RAM are the only things I think need any attention in this PC. The CX series is a budget line. I would definitely replace your PSU when you get a chance. 5 years is usually around when my PSUs start to poo poo the bed. Unfortunately, the better ones around $100 but you can always use them in your next computer. RAM, however, is cheap these days. 8 GB of DDR3 should be about $30.
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Aug 11, 2016 06:34
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I literally don't remember which model CPU I have in my desktop. Its a Devil's Canyon something something. Hell, I can't even remember if its an i5-5xxx or i5-4xxx.  I couldn't imagine being in this situation 10 year ago. I knew every single spec on my computers back then. Now I just want it to work. (which it does.)
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Aug 11, 2016 06:44
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mariooncrack posted:The CX series is a budget line. I would definitely replace your PSU when you get a chance. 5 years is usually around when my PSUs start to poo poo the bed. Unfortunately, the better ones around $100 but you can always use them in your next computer. I have 4 x 2GB sticks, with 4 slots on my mobo, so I have to buy 16 GB. I had 2 x 4GB sticks, but mom was bitching about her PC always being sluggish (and her PC only has 2 slots). Had this laying around, so threw it into mine. But yeah, RAM is crazy cheap again.Haven't had any issues with the PSU, but I know it's a low end model. I only intended to use it for like 3 months, which turned into 6 months, which turned into a year, and uh.. here we are 5 years later.  It's outlasted my last 3 Antecs combined though (TruePower, EcoPower, etc).I'm still trying to find a way to justify upgrading my system to something newer, but even the current generation i5 stuff doesn't seem like it offers a whole lot in performance over this (for desktop usage anyway). Definitely better in power efficiency though. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:54 on Aug 11, 2016 |
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Aug 11, 2016 06:50
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I just bought a GTX 1060 on a whim because the pixel indie games I buy and don't play on Steam sales really ought to be able to run at 40,000 fps, right?
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Aug 11, 2016 07:25
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