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EBC pads sound like lazors, that's just how they are. Does it sound like this when you're on the brakes? https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=FaGgmaQ26a4 As to braking force, have you broken the pads in hard? I usually drag the brakes enough I have to add a little throttle to maintain speed at freeway speeds for 5-10 seconds or so, let off for 10-15, repeat until I feel the braking force ramp up after 4-6 times. If that doesn't fix it, rebuild the master cylinder or throw a Brembo 19 RCS master cylinder at it. Also did you bleed the banjo bolts? Sometimes air gets stuck in there and you end up with mushy brakes from it.
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# ? Mar 10, 2017 21:45 |
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# ? May 27, 2024 02:40 |
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1gnoirents posted:I rebuilt my front rotors on my 08 sv650 (26k miles, former poster penus penus penus in this thread) because they were getting kind of mushy even after I bled them. I noticed one pad was wearing way more than the other one in the same caliper (but just one caliper). So I bought a new K&L seals kit and cleaned them up nice and put EBC pads in Did you bed your brakes?
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# ? Mar 10, 2017 21:49 |
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Coydog posted:Using the BMW method, I see. Yes, and as of today I have all the parts in that I need to change out said headlight bulb. Except for the FZ1 handlebar that I bought this morning. Because it was $49 shipped. E: it turns out a handlebar swap is a part of the service manual procedure for headlight bulb replacement
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# ? Mar 10, 2017 22:02 |
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Pooper Trooper posted:Decided against plain vinyl tape, I'll go with a cloth tape such as this one I think. Much better looking and more heat resistant, and it seems much cleaner with less sticky residue and stuff. Can you get techflex around that harness, or does it have too many bulges?
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# ? Mar 10, 2017 22:18 |
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Jazzzzz posted:Can you get techflex around that harness, or does it have too many bulges? I probably could, but it might be overkill. Though, if I'm honest, now i REALLY wanna use techflex.
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# ? Mar 10, 2017 22:43 |
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1gnoirents posted:I rebuilt my front rotors on my 08 sv650 (26k miles, former poster penus penus penus in this thread) because they were getting kind of mushy even after I bled them. I noticed one pad was wearing way more than the other one in the same caliper (but just one caliper). So I bought a new K&L seals kit and cleaned them up nice and put EBC pads in Disc brakes are incredibly simple. Pulling the brake lever presses a piston in the master cylinder which increases the pressure on the fluid in the lines. That pressure presses on the back of the caliper piston(s), forcing them in the direction of the pads, which clamp down on the rotor (brake disc). The further the lever is pulled, the more pressure is put on the fluid, increasing the pressure on the piston(s), clamping the pads down harder on the rotor. Incidentally, the reason stainless lines are considered to be better than rubber is that rubber lines will bulge outward (we're talking a teeny tiny bit here) when the fluid in them is pressurized further by the MC piston. Stainless lines being less flexible bulge less, allowing more of the pressure to be applied directly to the caliper pistons. As the rubber lines get older, they flex more (and are more likely to dry rot). Stainless lines suffer less from age. The main problem with motorcycle brakes is sticking caliper pistons. Usually this is caused by them getting gunked up with brake dust, road grime, or fluid blowing by the seals. It's very important that the grooves behind the seals are clean and free from corrosion. If there is gunk or crusty corrosion in the grooves behind those seals, they will push the seal out against the piston and make it stick in place. The best way to clean out those grooves is with a dremel and brass wire wheel. Assuming all that checks out ok, you might have a worn MC or lines, or just some air in the system that needs to be bled out further. Shut-Up-You-Blowhard version: try riding around the block a few times, making some hard stops, and then bleed it and see if you get some more air.
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# ? Mar 10, 2017 22:58 |
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Gorson posted:Disc brakes are incredibly simple. Pulling the brake lever presses a piston in the master cylinder which increases the pressure on the fluid in the lines. That pressure presses on the back of the caliper piston(s), forcing them in the direction of the pads, which clamp down on the rotor (brake disc). The further the lever is pulled, the more pressure is put on the fluid, increasing the pressure on the piston(s), clamping the pads down harder on the rotor. Incidentally, the reason stainless lines are considered to be better than rubber is that rubber lines will bulge outward (we're talking a teeny tiny bit here) when the fluid in them is pressurized further by the MC piston. Stainless lines being less flexible bulge less, allowing more of the pressure to be applied directly to the caliper pistons. As the rubber lines get older, they flex more (and are more likely to dry rot). Stainless lines suffer less from age. Speedbleeders are good, too.
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# ? Mar 10, 2017 23:33 |
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Ok so I looked a bit more into the Techflex scenario. Seems like it'd be used mostly for aesthetic purposes. The harness has a lot of bulky plugs at the ends, which I hesitate to take apart and back again. That means that I probably can't use the electrical insulating tubing as I doubt it could expand enough to go over some of the plugs. Same with the heatshrink tubing. Guess I'll wrap the whole thing with cloth tape and maybe use the braided tubing just for show.
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# ? Mar 11, 2017 10:52 |
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Isn't there a techflex wrap that opens along the side?
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# ? Mar 11, 2017 13:31 |
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Renaissance Robot posted:Isn't there a techflex wrap that opens along the side? Yeah but it's not electrically insulating
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# ? Mar 11, 2017 14:20 |
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Manhandled it out the too narrow door and got it outside. https://goo.gl/photos/e1QhWEv6YWbVppes7 Also changed the footrests from stock to sw-motech. A little bit over twice the surface area + not installing the rubber for better grip. https://goo.gl/photos/CFe7KsR1WfZMuXpX8
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# ? Mar 11, 2017 21:51 |
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Z3n posted:EBC pads sound like lazors, that's just how they are. Does it sound like this when you're on the brakes? That is actually exactly what im hearing. Thanks I feel better I didn't bleed the banjo bolts, will do, makes sense. I'll rebuild the master cylinder too since that appears to be cheap Gorson posted:Disc brakes are incredibly simple. Pulling the brake lever presses a piston in the master cylinder which increases the pressure on the fluid in the lines. That pressure presses on the back of the caliper piston(s), forcing them in the direction of the pads, which clamp down on the rotor (brake disc). The further the lever is pulled, the more pressure is put on the fluid, increasing the pressure on the piston(s), clamping the pads down harder on the rotor. Incidentally, the reason stainless lines are considered to be better than rubber is that rubber lines will bulge outward (we're talking a teeny tiny bit here) when the fluid in them is pressurized further by the MC piston. Stainless lines being less flexible bulge less, allowing more of the pressure to be applied directly to the caliper pistons. As the rubber lines get older, they flex more (and are more likely to dry rot). Stainless lines suffer less from age. Thanks, I guess what I was really getting as is "where is the brake booster " but since there clearly isnt one I didnt want to sound that dumb at first. Luckily I already have SS brake lines and the calipers were absolutely full of junk and gross crap but I got it all out. I'm just going to assume I didn't bleed it fully. I was concerned the noise indicated a fuckup but the video posted above was precisely what I was hearing
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# ? Mar 11, 2017 22:58 |
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For whatever reason, it's been difficult to convince myself to go riding lately. I used to be bothered by "weekend riders", but now I fully understand. Commuting, especially in Houston, kindof sucks. Considering now I'm only 7 miles away from work, the only way I'd commute daily is if I didnt have a car. Anyway, decided to do some quick maintenance on the SV including chain clean and lube (kerosene and ATF), refresh air pressures, spit shine, and a different power commander tune. It literally started pouring rain when I was finishing up. Hopefully it will clear up tomorrow!
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# ? Mar 11, 2017 23:09 |
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Supradog posted:Manhandled it out the too narrow door and got it outside. I just learned today that a common change on the vstrom is to put KLR pegs on it, pretty much the same change you made. Does it feel better? I've never used pegs that weren't small and had rubber and the bigger surface area and grip sounds nice, but maybe not as comfortable because there's no rubber. Can't decide if I want to try switching em out or not.
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# ? Mar 11, 2017 23:51 |
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Put on a clear tank protector, but it won't stick. I cleaned the hell off the bike too. Looks like I'll have to buy a good one later.
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# ? Mar 12, 2017 05:47 |
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Schroeder91 posted:I just learned today that a common change on the vstrom is to put KLR pegs on it, pretty much the same change you made. Does it feel better? I've never used pegs that weren't small and had rubber and the bigger surface area and grip sounds nice, but maybe not as comfortable because there's no rubber. Can't decide if I want to try switching em out or not. I've only taken a small 30km/20 mile shakedown with them yet, but yes there are more vibrations than with rubber but it's not overly much. I only noted it in the beginning. Not tested them on bumpier gravel/ loose stuff yet. I think i'll keep them without rubber (rubber top plates are supplied in the kit)The ones i put on also has an option to lower the height by 1.5 cm which I did and that small angle change on my knees felt good.
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# ? Mar 12, 2017 11:09 |
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Chichevache posted:Put on a clear tank protector, but it won't stick. I cleaned the hell off the bike too. Looks like I'll have to buy a good one later. Dude thats no reason to get rid of your bike.
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# ? Mar 12, 2017 12:25 |
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Chichevache posted:Put on a clear tank protector, but it won't stick. I cleaned the hell off the bike too. Looks like I'll have to buy a good one later. Heat the tank and the sticker with a hair dryer before putting them on.
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# ? Mar 12, 2017 13:32 |
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Changed my oil last night and spilled like a quart. The vstrom just ejects the oil with such force it ricochets out of the oil tub and all over the ground It was dark so I didn't notice at first and by the time I did the damage was done. Some kerosene and a brush seemed to clean it pretty well though. I really need one of those big metal things to put underneath when I do my oil. I was gonna install some raising links, but of course the exhaust pipe is in the way of getting to the bolts straight on.
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# ? Mar 12, 2017 15:14 |
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Heat the tank and the sticker with a hair dryer before putting them on. I'll give it a shot! Flikken posted:Dude thats no reason to get rid of your bike. Lol
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# ? Mar 12, 2017 15:30 |
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Flikken posted:Dude thats no reason to get rid of your bike. @_@
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# ? Mar 12, 2017 17:10 |
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Schroeder91 posted:Changed my oil last night and spilled like a quart. The vstrom just ejects the oil with such force it ricochets out of the oil tub and all over the ground It was dark so I didn't notice at first and by the time I did the damage was done. Some kerosene and a brush seemed to clean it pretty well though. I really need one of those big metal things to put underneath when I do my oil. go buy a blitz plastic oil pan from your local auto parts store, and pick up some oil-dry while you're there. Cat litter works but not as well
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# ? Mar 12, 2017 21:50 |
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Jazzzzz posted:go buy a blitz plastic oil pan from your local auto parts store, and pick up some oil-dry while you're there. Cat litter works but not as well Just make sure you get the cat litter that's basically clay.
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# ? Mar 12, 2017 22:22 |
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Cleaned and lubed chain; resolved never to do it without a rear stand in the future. After a little research I think I'll add spools to the rear and then get a compatible stand. Also did some cleaning and got rid of some old grime. I was a little worried about chain lube getting on the rear tire, but I gave it a good cleaning and took it out for a few hours after with no issues.
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# ? Mar 13, 2017 06:48 |
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mentalcontempt posted:Cleaned and lubed chain; resolved never to do it without a rear stand in the future. After a little research I think I'll add spools to the rear and then get a compatible stand. Also did some cleaning and got rid of some old grime. I used to be so careful and anal about this and not even a year later i spray that poo poo all over
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# ? Mar 15, 2017 20:10 |
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1gnoirents posted:I used to be so careful and anal about this and not even a year later i spray that poo poo all over I really miss the Ninjette's center stand. Edit: Didn't even see the first part about never doing it again without a stand.
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# ? Mar 15, 2017 20:39 |
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I just pull the bike over so it's on its front wheel and side stand and spin the wheel by hand. Stand next to the bike facing it, plant your right foot on the foot of the side stand and stick your left foot out behind you. Find some easy hand holds on the far side of the bike (I use my left hand on the throttle grip and right hand on the passenger rail) and pull the bike towards you, your rear wheel should lift off the floor. Hold the bike over like this against your leg using your left hand and rotate the rear wheel using your right hand.
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# ? Mar 15, 2017 23:02 |
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don't do that if your side stand bolts to the engine case, like certain fine ian motorcycles
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# ? Mar 15, 2017 23:08 |
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Just lay the bike on the ground so the wheel spins freely.
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# ? Mar 16, 2017 01:40 |
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Chichevache posted:Just lay the bike on the ground so the wheel spins freely. But you blew up your supermoto. And your other supermoto. You blew up two supermotos.
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# ? Mar 16, 2017 01:55 |
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Yeah, so the man clearly knows a thing or two about bikes laying on the ground.
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# ? Mar 16, 2017 02:16 |
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R&R'ed ignition backing plate and rotor on XR200. All good except the pin in the cam that aligns the plate is smeared over a bit from loose parts rattling around. Anyone got any bright ideas for extracting the pin other than taking the cam out and using the drill press? Too bad the rotor bolt didn't shear in the snout of the cam, then I would've swapped in something hotter
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# ? Mar 17, 2017 00:03 |
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Marxalot posted:But you blew up your supermoto. Did you know if you're short on coolant you can pee directly into the reservoir and it will be just as effective? More so, actually. The high alkaline content in urine increases the flow in the radiator, helping your bike run cooler.
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# ? Mar 17, 2017 02:33 |
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I once drove twenty miles by filling a busted radiator with a thermos full of tea
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# ? Mar 17, 2017 03:32 |
Protip: if you puncture the radiator with a stone, tip a couple of raw eggs in the hole and top up with water.
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# ? Mar 17, 2017 03:57 |
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I've heard of green eggs and ham, but this is ridiculous!
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# ? Mar 17, 2017 04:28 |
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Burning off oil but too far from home to get back? Try stopping by your local burger joint and getting some of their fry grease. It does a fantastic job of lubrication while also giving your bike a delightful aroma.
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# ? Mar 17, 2017 05:05 |
The egg trick actually works I used it on a lovely old corolla
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# ? Mar 17, 2017 06:40 |
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Coydog posted:I've heard of green eggs and ham, but this is ridiculous!
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# ? Mar 17, 2017 09:28 |
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# ? May 27, 2024 02:40 |
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Slavvy posted:The egg trick actually works I used it on a lovely old corolla That's not what we are doing here! That's actually a cool trick though.
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# ? Mar 17, 2017 17:42 |