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Andy Dufresne posted:I'm thinking about buying this bike. Tell me why I should or shouldn't! https://www.canyon.com/en-us/road-bikes-us/race-bikes/aeroad/aeroad-cf-sl-disc-8.0-di2/2875.html?dwvar_2875_pv_rahmenfarbe=BK&quantity=1 As someone who a) has an Aeroad and b) is going to be one of four people in the UK with a size 61 Tarmac SL7 by the end of August: The Aeroad is a great bike, and in the year or so since I got my Aeroad from the Canyon Outlet section I've put a good few thousand k on it. HOWEVER. It's still essentially the bike that came out in 2014, which means the frame/fork is not going to be as light, as aerodynamic, as integrated*, as stiff as the Tarmac. But you do get nicer wheels on it, so if you're not planning to upgrade further it'll probably be a faster bike? HOWEVER HOWEVER there's a new Aeroad coming out very shortly (it's been in Zwift adverts under Matthew van der Poel since January, but there's reason to believe it's actually coming soon) which means both that there'll be a new, faster version to consider but also the Outlet will be full of the old variety (which is how I got an Aeroad SLX 9.0 Di2 Disc for about the same price as the frame for the S-Works Tarmac SL7). Are you wanting to use aero bars? If so, the Aeroad is not really an option for that, as it has a carbon integrated stem/handlebar which isn't strong enough for them. The Tarmac's Aerofly2 won't take clip-ons either (although Specialized do have a weird stem mounted one which apparently is kinda ok if not really that good) but it does just use a standard stem/bar interfacey bit, so you can put something else on comparatively easily. Finally, don't buy Enves. Most of the cost is the branding of having a super expensive wheel. You can get something just as good - if not better - from DT Swiss/Swiss Side at half the price. *Having the di2 junction in the seat post is a slightly weird decision compared to its position in the down tube/on a bar end (ala a Dogma or a Madone), but it's infinitely preferable to having the under-stem version of old, which is hidden on the Aeroad but you have to bend a piece of plastic to get access to charge it, and I always feel like I'm going to break it. MrL_JaKiri fucked around with this message at 22:14 on Jul 28, 2020 |
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Jul 28, 2020 22:11
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ferrychat: helpful instructions for those times you're mid-ride, on a ferry, and nuclear war suddenly breaks out
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Jul 28, 2020 22:13
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MrL_JaKiri posted:
Agree with this advice, especially if you're deciding on race wheels, wait until you know if it makes sense to run a disc instead, because if the conditions allow for it, a disc will make more difference than any of the cable routing or truncated tube whatnots. Also I hadn't noticed that di2 junction location - weird. I guess you have to take the saddle bag off every time to charge it?
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Jul 28, 2020 22:15
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Andy Dufresne posted:I'm not hip to bike fashion, but I thought the black/black Canyon with deep section wheels was among the best looking bikes I've seen over the last few days. The two Specialized bikes don't look that great to me The only person who needs to care about your bikes looks is you. Despite writing a load of text a post or two ago, remember that the differences between them are pretty small at the end of the day - a handful of watts. Over a full Ironman it'll add up, sure, but it's still not that much, especially if you find one bike exciting and fun to ride and another not.
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Jul 28, 2020 22:17
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bicievino posted:Also I hadn't noticed that di2 junction location - weird. I guess you have to take the saddle bag off every time to charge it? They have it that way on the (now discontinued) Venge too. I guess in theory it's more protected there than in the bar end, and easier to manufacture than in the downtube? Or they're just being weird.
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Jul 28, 2020 22:20
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I'd like to get a wheel upgrade on the wife's bike. Does anyone have recommendations for something < $500, rim-brake, preferably kinda light and accommodating of 28mm tires?
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Jul 28, 2020 22:54
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Hawkline posted:I'd like to get a wheel upgrade on the wife's bike. Does anyone have recommendations for something < $500, rim-brake, preferably kinda light and accommodating of 28mm tires? What has she got at the moment?
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Jul 28, 2020 22:56
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MrL_JaKiri posted:What has she got at the moment?
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Jul 28, 2020 23:23
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Canyon bike looks sort of cool but yeah black/black is kind of eh the blue one looks SUPER cool tho blue is my favorite color anyone speculate on how much the price bump has been due to covid? edit: I don't know poo poo about race bikes but this one has the di2 and looks cool https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/...rCode=red_black actionjackson fucked around with this message at 00:16 on Jul 29, 2020 |
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Jul 29, 2020 00:09
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When I was a new cyclist I thought all blacked out stealth bikes were cool as gently caress. Now many years later I think they are kinda boring and all same looking, give me some color! But who cares what we think, get what you think looks cool because if you think it's cool you will ride it more and that's all that matters!
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Jul 29, 2020 00:11
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I know it sounds a bit dumb, but I feel like you don't really get a whole lot more at $500 over a $300 wheelset. Like, staying in the same product family, you could go to a Ksyrium, which will save a whopping... 200g for the whole wheelset, and get you tubeless compatibility, but with tubeless for 28mm tires is... idk, only barely worth the hassle imo. The wheels won't ride materially differently. $500 to save 200g is kinda meh I think. You could get the Campy Zonda wheelset from bike24 for https://www.bike24.com/p2184286.html?menu=1000,4,123 about $400 shipped, which would save you 340g and get you a weird neat spoke pattern. Still more than $1/gram, which, oof. You could also get these carbon-with-alu brake track wheels, which are only very slightly lighter than her current wheels, but are aero at 42mm deep. https://www.bike24.com/p2227942.html?menu=1000,4,123
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Jul 29, 2020 00:17
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If you can find a cheaper-than-RRP pair of DT Swiss PR1600's they'll actually be a meaningful improvement, but the RRP is more like $700 I think. Mavic Aksiums are a pretty decent wheel set, I was running them as training wheels for a bit (before I sold the bike they came on).
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Jul 29, 2020 00:19
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Imo never buy wheels you can't afford to replace
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Jul 29, 2020 00:25
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Feels Villeneuve posted:Imo never buy wheels you can't afford to replace Or bike stuff in general (unless you have insurance - my insurance has paid for itself for the next 3 years when I crashed my Cube Agree back in October)
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Jul 29, 2020 00:32
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Guinness posted:When I was a new cyclist I thought all blacked out stealth bikes were cool as gently caress. It was a reaction to the 2000/early 2010s thing of bike companies cramming every spot on their bike possible with logos or swooping lines. Like with many backlash trends, it was neat at the start but now looks generic. The current look seems to be either that or the "billboard" look where the entire bike is a solid color and is completely devoid of detailing, writing, or even the model name, with the exception of a massive brand decal on the downtube. The Trek Madone is the king of this look and I hate it. Basically make bikes look like this again 
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Jul 29, 2020 00:43
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Feels Villeneuve posted:The current look seems to be either that or the "billboard" look where the entire bike is a solid color and is completely devoid of detailing, writing, or even the model name, with the exception of a massive brand decal on the downtube. The Trek Madone is the king of this look and I hate it. Good news! Hideous bikes are back in fashion! 
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Jul 29, 2020 00:49
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MrL_JaKiri posted:Good news! Hideous bikes are back in fashion! Strange way to spell awesome
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Jul 29, 2020 00:50
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MrL_JaKiri posted:Good news! Hideous bikes are back in fashion!  it won't count until people go full 80s and make this a normal non-special edition paint job though
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Jul 29, 2020 00:51
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FogHelmut posted:Thinking about them triple cranks.  And yeah, you'll almost certainly need a new bottom bracket, front derailleur, probably a rear derailler, and definitely a chain. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Willow-Chainring-Triplizer-39-30t-135-Campagnolo-74-BCD-double-into-triple-NOS-/274194847896
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Jul 29, 2020 01:33
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^^^^^^ I think an Andel crankset is cheaper than that if you don't have a really cool crankset. FogHelmut posted:Thinking about them triple cranks. What is your current drivetrain? I run a 44/34/24 right now using standard 10-speed 105 triple stuff, including a GS RD and STIs. I run a 11-32 cassette. That's a 41T capacity and it almost certainly has more in it. Shimano claims that a 5700GS or 6700GS can handle a 22 Tooth difference, so 50-28 is do-able and shimano is notoriously conservative. (They also claim my max cassette is 11-28 and capacity is 39). If you have friction shifters, you can get even more range, I ran a 52-42-22 on my old touring bike, but I had an SGS MTB RD. If you have a short cage RD (SS), you will need a new RD. You will need a new FD and new shifters unless you're in friction land. You'll probably want a new cage. You can't do 11-speed unless you want to do some weird bar-con thing or find some of the really weird XT 3-11 stuff I'm sure they sold 10 copies of. FWIW, my ungodly expensive custom touring bike has Andel RSC6s, which are cheap as hell, come without rings (so you can customize them), and do a good job. You can even look for Surly LHT takeoffs cause that's what they came with for years. Any bike shop can get them from QBP as arms only. Their rings are mostly fine too and again, cheap. Its 110/76mm 5 bolt, so there is basically every ring size. nm fucked around with this message at 01:36 on Jul 29, 2020 |
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Jul 29, 2020 01:34
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Its all Tiagra 4700. 50/34 up front, 10 speed 11-34 in back. Looking at the specs, I'll definitely need a new front shifter and new front derailleur. I can probably keep the rear - they claim that the 3 speed front is only good with the 11-32 rear, but many people have put a 11-36 rear on the 2 speed front with no issues. gently caress it, I'll just take steroids.
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Jul 29, 2020 02:01
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FogHelmut posted:gently caress it, I'll just take steroids.
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Jul 29, 2020 02:04
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Feels Villeneuve posted:It was a reaction to the 2000/early 2010s thing of bike companies cramming every spot on their bike possible with logos or swooping lines. Like with many backlash trends, it was neat at the start but now looks generic. I might be the only one, but I absolutely love this obnoxious nonsense: 
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Jul 29, 2020 02:19
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It's a cool paint job but Trek discovering that they can extend the logo to the headtube to make it even more massive is the most ominous development in cycling since the press fit BB.
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Jul 29, 2020 02:20
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Feels Villeneuve posted:It's a cool paint job but Trek discovering that they can extend the logo to the headtube to make it even more massive is the most ominous development in cycling since the press fit BB. yeah the trek women's team paint owns but TREK
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Jul 29, 2020 02:32
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FogHelmut posted:Its all Tiagra 4700. 50/34 up front, 10 speed 11-34 in back. Looking at the specs, I'll definitely need a new front shifter and new front derailleur. I can probably keep the rear - they claim that the 3 speed front is only good with the 11-32 rear, but many people have put a 11-36 rear on the 2 speed front with no issues. EPO. I'm pretty sure you can get away with a 22 tooth front difference and at least a 34. Assuming you have the GS, you have 41 teeth of stated capacity. I'd have no worries about 45. Shimano claims a 20T on the FD, but I bet it can pull an extra 2 teeth. Small chain rings are cheap and because they don't need any ramping you can buy the cheapest poo poo to see if it works. You want to set up the chain to be long enough to be find for big-big. You may get some issues at small-small, particularly if you run a 36, but simple solution is never run small-small. I got the very slightest hits of issues on my 52-42-22 setup on small-small, though that could be b-screwed away with some sacrifice in RD precision. Easier to just never go small-small. I don't know the indexing on front tiagra 10 speed, but if it works with 5700/6700 10 speed shimano fronts (it won't work with 10 speed shimano rear), a FD-6703 would make sure it works and they're cheap as hell on ebay. nm fucked around with this message at 02:56 on Jul 29, 2020 |
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Jul 29, 2020 02:52
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Busted out the fixie for the first time in a couple weeks or so after giving the chain some grease, only to realize once I got home that somehow the clamp for the rear brake cable had loosened and if I pulled the handle all the way the brake cable just slid right through. Good reminder to actually check brakes from time to time...
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Jul 29, 2020 03:05
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nm posted:^^^^^^ Anyway I'm doing the opposite: taking a Sugino Impel triple, dropping the two smaller chainrings, and putting a Wolftooth 29t on for 42/29. The chainring cost more than the whole crankset. I am very smart.
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Jul 29, 2020 03:13
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nm posted:EPO. I know my front derailleur is 2 speed, but I gotta click that shifter twice to move it down once.
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Jul 29, 2020 03:43
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FogHelmut posted:I know my front derailleur is 2 speed, but I gotta click that shifter twice to move it down once. Your FD adjustment/cable tension is off dude, mine used to do that too.
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Jul 29, 2020 04:04
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Any chance you're just not aware of the trim positions on most road shifters? There are 4 possible position selections with a modern road double shifter, used to get rid of chain rub on the FD cage when cross chaining.
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Jul 29, 2020 04:10
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Di2 forever thank god no more manual trim
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Jul 29, 2020 04:11
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EvilJoven posted:Any chance you're just not aware of the trim positions on most road shifters? There are 4 possible position selections with a modern road double shifter, used to get rid of chain rub on the FD cage when cross chaining. In my case yes I am, I just suck at setting up my FDs. I currently have two extreme small ring selections and a single big ring selection (trim does nothing in big ring). I'll get it right one of these days but it works the way I need it to.
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Jul 29, 2020 04:16
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I’m in the market for a bike to ride with my wife who just picked up a new Journeyman. I’ve found an older (‘09) Stigmata that fits the bill at $750 with a grip of goodies but he ran too fat tires at some point and hosed up the chainstay pretty good. I’m a chunk monster at 260, how bad is this and am I going to die if I ride this bike? https://imgur.com/a/AftlTAT
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Jul 29, 2020 04:20
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BeastPussy posted:In my case yes I am, I just suck at setting up my FDs. I currently have two extreme small ring selections and a single big ring selection (trim does nothing in big ring). Sometimes the combination of chainstay length and chainline means a trim position is essentially vestigial. Seen it a few times where one of the trim positions of a perfectly set up drivetrain has little to no real effect. You should still see some movement in the mech though, even if it isn't needed.
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Jul 29, 2020 04:24
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MrL_JaKiri posted:Good news! Hideous bikes are back in fashion! This would imply they were ever out of fashion 
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Jul 29, 2020 04:31
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Quite A Tool posted:I’m in the market for a bike to ride with my wife who just picked up a new Journeyman. I’ve found an older (‘09) Stigmata that fits the bill at $750 with a grip of goodies but he ran too fat tires at some point and hosed up the chainstay pretty good. I’m a chunk monster at 260, how bad is this and am I going to die if I ride this bike? You will probably not die, but I would not ride that bike, and I sure would not pay money for it. That's saying something because otherwise it takes basically no convincing to sell me a bike.
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Jul 29, 2020 04:58
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MrL_JaKiri posted:Good news! Hideous bikes are back in fashion! https://www.instagram.com/your_allez_is_overpriced/
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Jul 29, 2020 05:04
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EvilJoven posted:Any chance you're just not aware of the trim positions on most road shifters? There are 4 possible position selections with a modern road double shifter, used to get rid of chain rub on the FD cage when cross chaining. Yes a good chance. My high and low limits are set correctly and I don't know what's happening in between there.
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Jul 29, 2020 05:22
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Quite A Tool posted:I’m in the market for a bike to ride with my wife who just picked up a new Journeyman. I’ve found an older (‘09) Stigmata that fits the bill at $750 with a grip of goodies but he ran too fat tires at some point and hosed up the chainstay pretty good. I’m a chunk monster at 260, how bad is this and am I going to die if I ride this bike? Nah man, at 260 you want a bike that can clear some competent rubber, and the old aluminum stigmatas were straightup cx bikes with like 35mm clearance tops. Just get yourself a journeyman or something along those lines - it's a thread default suggestion for a reason. Or tell us why a journeyman for yourself isn't a good call and we can make better suggestions.
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Jul 29, 2020 05:51
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