|
Recently my mother-in-law bought a 99 Grand Cherokee. Its a 4.0 with an automatic. And possibly the least amount of rust I have seen on a jeep around Chicago in a while. When she closed her driver side door she lost all use of her windows and door locks. I jiggled the wires going from the door to the body and got it to work. Can anyone describe an easy way to fix it?
|
#
¿
May 28, 2014 01:48
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 07:52 |
|
|
Krakkles posted:If it's like Cherokees of that era, the wires going to the door are: That's what I figured I just had hoped there was something easier. I also get to see why some bubba electrical taped two wires together...not spliced just placed side by side and taped. Overall this jeep is nice and much better then her exploder.
|
|
#
¿
May 28, 2014 02:10
|
|
|
What is the exact thing I need to look for under the oil cap on her jeep? You are a jeep encyclopedia. I am sure I will have pictures for here in the next few weeks. The left rear wheel is making a horrible bearing howl. The seller said it was the e-brake not being adjusted right. But it definitely sounds like a bad wheel bearing.
|
|
#
¿
May 29, 2014 00:57
|
|
|
Thanks for the help guys she really loves the jeep already and I am the one who does all the work to it. I assume a head swap would be the best way to correct this problem if it exists?
|
|
#
¿
May 29, 2014 01:40
|
|
|
So on Monday my wife is trading her escape for her mothers 2000 WJ. First thing it needs is new tires because the ones on it are dryrotted and worn funny. While its getting new tires im going to have a chance to look at the suspension. Could someone recommend a decent set of tires in this size? Money is not the issue its there are so many mediocre brands for the size it has. 245/70r16
|
|
#
¿
Mar 8, 2015 19:48
|
|
|
Motronic posted:tirerack.com I wasn't really looking for someone to say THIS IS THE BEST TYPE BUY THIS THE STATISTICS SHOW ITS AMAZING!!! I was more looking for a *Insert Brand Here* this is what I have used and enjoyed. Tire rack has people reviewing those tires and its always for a different type of car.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 8, 2015 23:43
|
|
|
Godholio posted:Is it in Florida or Alaska? Will it ever leave pavement, and if so will it see sand, rocks, snow/ice, or mud? If not, is a city/highway mix or mostly one or the other? You're asking for recommendations for a vehicle that has a wide variety of capabilities, so it depends 100% on what it's used for. The recommendations are going to be different based on how you answer all of these questions. It will be used for driving in and around Chicago. and on vacations in the summer. I doubt this thing will ever see a trail. The most offroading it will do would be driving onto a campsite and off.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 9, 2015 02:10
|
|
|
Motronic posted:But more importantly there are actual tire rack authored reviews that rate things like dry traction, wet traction, road noise, etc. This is what I was trying to direct you towards to equip you to make the best decision for yourself, rather than hoping someone here is going to live exactly where you are and drive they way you do in the same model vehicle. I read a lot of the reviews and there all over the place. one person will say how the tires were great and lasted for a little longer then the warranty. Then the next review down will just trash the tires. So ive come to the conclusion some of those reviews are written while someone has there head in there rear end. But you guys have defenitley steered me in a good direction thanks.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 10, 2015 00:11
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Jesus H. Christ. I'm talking about this: No need to get flustered. As you are the only one getting upset. I read reviews and like I said they sucked a bag of dicks. But I will read the surveys and thanks for that didn't notice them. But in my research some yokohama geolanders might be what I need seeing as I wont be doing any offroading and the all seasons on my escape were perfect last winter.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 11, 2015 14:20
|
|
|
what would be the best way for me to test the rear control arms on my 99 WJ. It swerved pretty bad on the highway on my trip home today and it feels like a bushing in the rear has poo poo the bed. In other news the WJ was amazing for the trip to iowa and back. It actually got 18 MPG the whole trip 
|
|
#
¿
Mar 24, 2015 01:17
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Anyone know what the difference in fluid volume between the top two (hot low / hot full) holes on the 545RFE dipstick is? Seems like a quart... I'm having a hell of a time getting the fluid topped off after the change since between my commute and the lack of a lighted, level spot in front of my house, I end up parked at a gas station nearby for 10 minutes to check, add a little, wait for it to clear out of the dipstick, then check again. I remember you saying putting on a doorman pan. Maybe it holds more or less then oem and that is giving you the hard time?
|
|
#
¿
Mar 26, 2015 13:51
|
|
|
^^^I don't think I have the patience do ever do a full engine rebuild. I would be more a pull It out and slap another in type. In jeep news my WJ is starting to have really loose steering. If I wanted to tighten it up I would have to order new tie rods? Rock auto shows four different ones and has some that say the same thing just switching a word around. Which ones should I order to just replace everything and attempt to tighten up the steering?
|
|
#
¿
Apr 1, 2015 03:53
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Yes, there are four different tie rod ends. One at each end of the link from the steering gear to the passenger wheel, and then one on each end of the link between both wheels. If I ever get around to doing that on my WJ I'll just grab one of each of the Moog parts listed. Thanks I was kind of confused because it wouldn't be the first time rock auto sent me on a wild goose chase. I'm ordering all the moog ones and aligning it at work. Is the jks track being adjustable really that much of an advantage?
|
|
#
¿
Apr 1, 2015 06:12
|
|
|
gileadexile posted:I've had recommendations for it myself, so really was just parroting. Assuming you're in rust country, the biggest thing I'd suggest is replacing any tie rod end with anothet in the same side and buying the adjustment sleeve at the same time. Rust really likes getting in there and seizing it tight. I lament your pain. I work for a living as a mechanic and do jeep/ dodged that have a similar set up all the time. So I've learned oxy and when that's not available a good penetrant makes it all worth while. The last one I soaked for about three or four hours and it came undone with ease. I'm in the Chicago land area where salt is free with your commute most of the time
|
|
#
¿
Apr 1, 2015 14:24
|
|
|
Yeah I'll do a little diagnosing at work. And moog has a warranty whereas used factory parts are rusted to poo poo and a bitch to remove
|
|
#
¿
Apr 1, 2015 18:48
|
|
|
Horse Divorce posted:I had to do the same thing last time I changed my oil. The filter simply wouldn't budge, I broke my filter wrench trying to get it loose. Not enough oil on the seal does it. Also the last person who put the filter on has probably had a prior experience of a loose filter and thus now monkey fucks every filter they ever put on. Not realizing that getting it snug plus a turn and a half is what you really want.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 4, 2015 16:08
|
|
|
I cant speak for the jeep stant products but I have had some go bad recently. Just like all auto parts manufacturers sometimes they hire a fucknob who sucks rear end at his job.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 13, 2015 14:14
|
|
|
Can anyone recommend a rear end rebuild kit. I saw the one on rock auto and was tempted to order. But I figured asking here wouldn't hurt incase someone has used that specific one and had problems.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 13, 2015 19:13
|
|
|
kastein posted:Nope, 5-90 is a different guy, he posts A LOT (less in the last few years) and is also good, but his info is somewhat less trustable than the other two. Still good though. Sorry had a brain fart and didn't put what type. From my readings and lookings at the plug its a dana 35. Which makes sense since its a 99 grand cherokee
|
|
#
¿
Apr 13, 2015 20:27
|
|
|
^ check where the frame meets in the front end by the wheels. its where it usually cracks due to rust or plow abuse
|
|
#
¿
May 4, 2015 02:40
|
|
|
Fixed that for you.
|
|
#
¿
May 11, 2015 21:41
|
|
|
Polish posted:Not Jeep related but.. Weld a nut onto the studs. In jeep stuff I am looking at getting rid of my accord for a ZJ. How much better of pickup does the 5.9 have versus the 4.0? I want a ZJ because I love the body style and driving my wife's WJ around has made me want a jeep. Its just the 4.slow is just that SLOW!!!
|
|
#
¿
May 15, 2015 02:40
|
|
|
Replaced the two blown out dash lights in the WJ. But I think the fuel pump is on its way out due to the one day of only reading empty and lately the miles to empty is even more off. Maybe ill get lucky and find of the wires is a little janky and rusty. Just like every thing else on this loving jeep. I found that the jeep has dollar bill sized rust hole in the firewall/floorwell area on both sides.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 2, 2015 02:46
|
|
|
HotCanadianChick posted:
Yes to the steering and with the trans I would check the fluid. If the color is decent and at a good level just change it. But if its dark and low just keep adding fluid and be greatful for the free rust proofing ATF undercoating your vehicle now has.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 7, 2015 17:37
|
|
|
^ the only problem I hate about going gasketless is if the RTV wasn't completely dry before you add the fluid it just shits its self out. Where as a gasket and RTV is usually a little more forgiving if your in a rush.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 25, 2015 15:05
|
|
|
So I have been searching the internet and there is no good resource on how to tell what the axle in my WJ is. Can anyone here tell me how to identify it. I know kastein is gonna come and yell at me for being stupid and I should just pull one from a junkyard but, I still need to know what to look for to make sure I'm getting the correct axle if I do.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 14, 2015 23:57
|
|
|
Thanks for the quick replys. Jeepforum and many other jeep forums like it never worked on my old computer. I recently got a newer one and I can now see that site. So since its a D44 rebuilding it will be a minor pain in the dick. I mean I rebuild rear ends at work a lot and its not to bad. But If I remember right replacing Cherokee axle seals and bearings requires cutting the bearing off?
|
|
#
¿
Aug 15, 2015 01:27
|
|
|
I cant speak for the non diesel grand Cherokees but the new ones with the diesel are tits. They sound like angry little cummins at low speed and have very decent pick up. New diesels always surprise me.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 26, 2015 23:55
|
|
|
^ the obvious answer is cocaine. So my WJ still squeaks every now and then. First it was the thermostat gasket leaking coolant on the belt. THen the pressure line for the power steering pump burst and leaked all over the belt. Now both of those leaks are fixed and it still will randomly squeak. I have checked the pulley and tensioner both are quiet. Should I be looking at a new belt or is WJ squeaking a common thing. Also when I replaced the pressure line it stopped making the Honk through turns like it was.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 28, 2015 14:01
|
|
|
5.9 5.2 they are both great motors. I had one in a ram 1500 and it was bullet proof. The manual trans attached to it was also bulletproof. the rust killed everything else and what didn't rust off turned into an electrical nightmare. Edit: the ram had the 5.2
|
|
#
¿
Sep 5, 2015 15:17
|
|
|
Moey posted:I hope not. Looking at a 2012 WK2 with the 5.7... Ive worked on a few of those and they aren't to bad. I think SiF was referring to the 4.7 which is a notorious poo poo pile. And unfortunately the only V8 offered in a WJ. But the 5.7 and 5.2/5.9 are all decent slow gas guzzling pigs of motors. The 5.7 "hemi" in that model jeep is actually peppy and not terrible on gas.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 7, 2015 15:17
|
|
|
TACTICAL SANDALS posted:Fuuuuuuck You should just look for somewhere to trade it if you let it overheat that much. I know it doesn't seem bad but the 4.7/all chryselrs with a .7 motor DO NOT like to over heat. Also with Chrysler doing all the major recall and buy back poo poo your WJ maybe worth more then before and be a decent trade/down payment towards a WK. Edit: just read kasteins Mildly hydrolocked and had the silliest little girl giggle fit. That's an eloquent way to put it if I ever heard of one. clam ache fucked around with this message at 01:41 on Sep 9, 2015 |
|
#
¿
Sep 9, 2015 01:39
|
|
|
Dr. Red Ranger posted:I have a pretty persistent misfire issue I was hoping you guys would be able to clarify for me. I'm not very well versed in automotive work, but I'll try to be as descriptive as possible. Anyway, I'm driving a 2003 Liberty 3.7L V6, and it's developed a hard "miss" feel when the engine is running. There isn't a knocking or metallic pinging sound when it runs; the engine feels like it's dropping a beat hard in it's cycle and causes visible shaking. The misfire is present when idling, and the engine struggles to "catch up" when accelerating, but will run better at ~30-45 mph. If I slow down to 10-15 mph around my neighborhood, the misfire becomes more pronounced and has caused the engine to stall out twice now. Chrysler Crank sensors do strange things in the V6. and the evap codes wouldn't lead me to belive it runs the way it does. Also you say coil packs. have you replaced them all? also did you use a spark plug that motor likes? these are all things that could lead to a problem. Or it could be a 3.7 and slowly chryslering itself to death. Also how does the car run in reverse? I know it sounds weird but on some Chrysler v6 motors the crank position sensor is mounted in a weird spot and the car will poo poo the bed in reverse if the sensor is going bad.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 15, 2015 03:26
|
|
|
Dr. Red Ranger posted:It can run in reverse fine enough. I only replaced the coil packs on the cylinders reporting misfires due to expense, but the problem started before all of the replacements and has not changed despite them. I did use AC Delco spark plugs to replace the visibly worn older plugs though. I wouldn't be surprised if it was a circuitry issue though. The headlights struggle to stay on at night and will click off if I don't hold the control lever forward, and sometimes would even fail to turn off with the car, forcing me to remove fuses to prevent draining the battery. It's an old Jeep. Well I would check all the conections for the coils. Start the truck up and just sprits the coils with a little water and if its an electrical issue you will know instantly by the vehicle attempting to die when getting wet. I'm having a brain fart on that Chrysler engine but I feel like theres a sensor that commonly fails and may lead to this problem.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 15, 2015 23:52
|
|
|
Sandbagger SA posted:The last factory 22 I had came with a wood stock and iron sights so maybe that says something about the kind of jeep I drive. Glad I wasn't the only one who thought this. And I drive a WJ.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 20, 2015 21:28
|
|
|
So the control arms on my wifes WJ are starting to rust away. Ive liked Monroe other products but does anyone here have experience with there jeep control arms? I'm trying to avoid Moog and Mevotech since its similar junk just a different color.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 28, 2015 22:08
|
|
|
Cat Hatter posted:I have a Michigan-raised '98 XJ with a factory tow hitch that's gotten pretty rusty. Is this one of the things (like rear shock bolts Get a good penetrant and let it SOAK. then after that heat it up with a torch. Then take an impact of whatever kind and ZAP the buhjeeesus out of it.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 30, 2015 23:45
|
|
) where the bolts break if I try to remove the nuts, or should it come right off if I apply enough muscle?
|
kastein posted:
You have a way of making this that are so horrible sound so elegant. Also I know your secretly a j truck that became self aware sometime in the eighties and has been trying to take Chrysler down ever since.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 1, 2015 23:37
|
|
|
Safety Dance posted:Hm. I just went from tank empty to tank full. That's the only monitor that isn't set (O2 sensor heater started passing this afternoon), so I think Illinois will find that acceptable. I'll get it tested tomorrow, and if they make me come back, I'll use some gas and try again. I live by ohare and work for a well equipped shop outside of ohare and if you want this Saturday we could hook it up to a very well equipped scanner and see what's what?
|
|
#
¿
Nov 8, 2015 23:50
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 07:52 |
|
|
Indeed any help you need just ask. I'm local have a great set of tools at home and also a well equipped shop at my weekend disposal. Plus we work on many jeeps every week at my shop so my boss has usual been threw it on most older jeeps
|
|
#
¿
Nov 9, 2015 00:50
|
|