|
Yo kastein, I've been tossing around the idea of getting a beater offroad vehicle for camping and exploration. I also have had a bad project bug humming around my head of late, and thanks to your thread I've been looking at Jeeps. I grew up with my dad hauling me out into the desert in his 1969 Bronco and, later on, piece of poo poo Suburbans. I've got a fancy european motorcycle and a fancy european car that I baby, but I miss dirt roads and getting stuck and not caring if my paint gets scratched. I figure I6 4.0 era Jeeps are what I want, but I wanted to see what you recommended. A couple things on CL near me that caught my eye: http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/cto/4454788736.html - I always had a thing for Saharas. Is replacing the rear diff a huge pain? I've got plenty of room and tools to learn, plus a good friend who does that sort of thing for fun. http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/cto/4455901709.html - this is more along the lines of what I've been looking for, albiet automatic and may have some back fees due on registration (can't really tell from the listing). I figure this specific one could depend on rust from Illinois. I'm kind of shotgunning CL, so if you have any tips for narrowing my search that would rule!
|
#
¿
May 6, 2014 03:29
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 2, 2024 21:21 |
|
|
Thanks for the writeup on what years to look for, I really appreciate it. Should help narrow my search for sure.
|
|
#
¿
May 7, 2014 22:27
|
|
|
So what's the best way of telling exactly what variant of rear-end an example has? Is it model-year specific/does it vary by factory code or VIN/is it just a number stamped on the metal itself? One of the main issues of living in rust-free LA is the sheer amount of time it takes to drive across town to check out a car, so I'd like to know what I'm looking for 
|
|
#
¿
May 7, 2014 22:59
|
|
|
Ken- I've been keeping an eye on CL for 8.25s and got ahold of a jeep parts place. They've got a 29spline open diff for $200 and a 29spline LSD with new brakes/wheel cylinders/hardware for $300. I can grab the rear driveshaft at the same time. While I'd like to go do the junkyard thing to save a few bucks I'm super swamped with work etc, and I'm not confident I have the time/tools/knowhow yet. Getting something pre-pulled will allow me to get my hands dirty on my own time (and start gathering all the right tools). Is the limited slip worth the extra $100? My rear brakes are fine afaik so I don't factor those in.
|
|
#
¿
May 20, 2014 19:27
|
|
|
Krakkles posted:Are you doing this ASAP? No, I'm in no real hurry - I might take you up on that. I'm in LA but I'd be willing to swing up your way or find a day when you're in the area to meet up. Thanks for the offer - I'll maintain a casual eye on CL, but keep me updated on your swap!
|
|
#
¿
May 20, 2014 19:40
|
|
|
kastein posted:I already forgot what year the jeep you have is, unfortunately. There are some specifics about what year driveshaft you need if it's going in various other years. Its a 1988 4x4 auto with a d35 rear and what I assume to be a d30 front? I was excited because the ecology near me has a 50% day this Saturday but I have to be at work to supervise. drat you boss, for taking that day off. I'm anxious to get junkyarding but time is the issue currently. I'll probably wait on Krakkles and see what else surfaces in the meantime. Thanks! The Royal Nonesuch fucked around with this message at 19:52 on May 20, 2014 |
|
#
¿
May 20, 2014 19:49
|
|
|
Took my inaugural trip to the junkyard today, armed with too many goddamned tools. Found three XJs - I was mainly looking for 8.25 swap stuff, a fullsize spare steel rim and a rear taillight assembly because mine is cracked. Found two D35s, one good steelie and two other busted left taillights. Third XJ was a 4.0/1995/4x4/auto with a 8.25. Someone had opened the diff and pulled the gears (politely leaving the cover in the car so I could tell what it was), but the rear driveshaft was still there. I fumbled haplessly in gloved hands at my sheafs of printed Kastein posts: kastein posted:Alright, you need a rear driveshaft from a 1987-1995 4x4 auto with the same engine (I assume 4.0) and a d44 rear (87-90) or 8.25 (91/92-95.) The 96 and later 4.0/AW4/4x4/8.25 driveshaft will be several inches too long due to the design change in the rear slip yoke output housing on the transfer case, unfortunately. I pulled it out and bought it along with the rim and a few spare hoses. Assuming I buy Krakkles' 2000 8.25 29spl (and assuming he needs to keep the driveshaft, otherwise it's a spare) that should fit together right? I was unable to get the differential pinion yoke off, as I lacked a 1 1/4" socket. Right as I was removing the driveshaft, someone in a mechanics uniform stuck their head under the car and inquired if I needed the other yoke He then asked me questions about it matching 2wd Toyota transmissions. I muttered something about a Jeep Whisperer on the internet, and he left.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 7, 2014 01:05
|
|
|
kastein posted:
 rightkastein posted:Yes, his axle, the driveshaft you got, and your jeep will combine well. The one remaining thing you need is a set of U-bolts for a 3" round axle tube, assuming you didn't get the ones from the driveshaft donor vehicle and can't get the ones from Krakkles. I honestly usually suggest buying new U-bolts anyways, they stretch somewhat when installed and you should retorque after roughly 100 miles when you install the axle. Fantastic. Yeah, I was planning on buying new UBolts/joints/etc. I'd rather have brand new ones. Quick question: should I go back with a bigger socket and pull out the differential yoke? Will Krakkles yoke interchange with mine (assuming, again, that he doesn't need it for his 8.8?) kastein posted:The threaded holes in the pinion yoke on the axle for the straps/bolts are 1/4-28 UNF thread. I always run a tap through them before installing the new stuff, you probably won't need to, being outside the rust belt, but it's best to have no dirt in the threads because they jam up easily, being so small. Good tip. Speaking of rust: let me know if there's any west-coast unobtanium rust-free stuff you need. I'd be glad to send you anything I am able to pull as thanks for your help. You pay shipping if it's heavy poo poo
|
|
#
¿
Jun 7, 2014 02:04
|
|
|
This is a tie with some Doccers photo for AI.jpg. That rust (  ) reminded me that a coworker is selling his 2wd 88 Comanche in SoCal if anyone is interested.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 30, 2014 03:47
|
|
|
kastein posted:Absolutely nothing, surprisingly. I only buy the kind that's all acetone/heptane (no really nasty chemicals) specifically because I know I'm gonna set some on fire most times I use it, and it burns super clean. Cleaner than gasoline in fact. Is that the difference between the red and green cans? I was wondering which was better at the store the other day...
|
|
#
¿
Jul 11, 2014 05:45
|
|
|
Slow is Fast posted:
Goddamn. That jeep is newer, more mechanically sound, has less dents, better paint, and somehow manages to look much worse than my red shitbox. Goes to show you that complete trim makes a difference  Took it out camping a couple of weekends ago after replacing the thermostat housing gasket/thermostat/gauge temp sender/leaky valve cover gasket. It ran great but lost a bunch of coolant, which I traced to corroded freeze plugs. Slow is Fast posted:This dirt driveway poo poo throws me off. Dirt driveway supremacy. Got a 2001 8.25 last week, and finally had some time to gently caress around with it.   Looks clean inside  Beginning to wirebrush it all off in prep to paint the pumpkin. Gotta polish that turd  Going to dive in way over my head in the coming months and do the following: Drop transmission/remove intake manifold to replace all the old freeze plugs with new copper ones Replace shot engine mounts (going with budget rockauto mounts because gently caress it) Replace oil pan/transmission pan gaskets (so much oil crud down there) Replace rear main seal while I'm in there Replace crankshaft sensor while I'm in there Probably spend some cash and install Aussie locker into 8.25 New rear drivetrain ujoints Rape wallet further and install Rubicon Express 3" lift Install 8.25 The thought of adding more things to the list makes me break into a nervous sweat, but while I've got the transmission out is there anything else I should be checking/doing?
|
|
#
¿
Jul 28, 2014 07:26
|
|
|
drat, that's a rad project. You should probably design it as a helicopter and incorporate a landing pad on the back of the 5ton. It'd be like a recheck super yacht. Thanks for the XJ tips especially re: motor mounts. You are truly the Monty Python Book of
|
|
#
¿
Jul 29, 2014 16:45
|
|
|
I started reading into the install manual for Aussie lockers and it was all anal about "side gear thrust washers". I didn't know what those were, and thought about asking in here but I thought "No, I won't hassle Kastein for this - I'll figure it out myself like a big boy! Several minutes of googling later, and I was reading the only informative link I found - an archived post on NAXJA by user "kastein" 
|
|
#
¿
Jul 30, 2014 17:33
|
|
|
Astonishing Wang posted:I'm pretty sure I have a pair of brand new thrust washers for a dana 30 if you need them. Might take me a couple of days to find where I left them though. Let me know if you want me to ship them out. Just noticed this and thanks - they'd be going in a 8.25 and I'm assuming that's different.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 1, 2014 00:36
|
|
|
Hey Ken, You recommend a 91-95 rear drive shaft from a 4x4 4.0 AW4 w/8.25 for my 2001 8.25 swap. After striking out at junkyards, I found a jeep place that has a bunch of shafts, but it's an hour away and they wanna know the length before I drive out there. It's going in my 88 xj with 4x4/4.0/AW4/np231, replacing the D35c 3.55. Thanks mang.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 7, 2014 20:31
|
|
|
Thanks for the info, I had kind of gathered that the whole measurement thing was... abstract.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 7, 2014 23:18
|
|
|
Tonight I'm going through my harness and giving all the connectors a good blast of contact cleaner/compressed air/wire brush the spades. In the process I noted this busted relay - as far as I can tell searching diagrams online, it seems to match the location (above right wheel well, next to battery) of both the fog light and A/C clutch relays. Which one is it, or do they share the same relay? Neither my fog lights nor my A/C will turn on, so they both make sense. The connector has it's own ground and positive lead which looks like it connects to the + terminal. 1988 Renix XJ 
The Royal Nonesuch fucked around with this message at 03:08 on Sep 11, 2014 |
|
#
¿
Sep 11, 2014 03:01
|
|
|
kastein posted:Sorry man, I have no idea. I own two RENIX MJs but their electrical systems are getting torn out when I start working on them so I haven't so much as looked at them. Coo, no worries. Further googling will find it. edit: by the super scientific method of putting in a spare relay I forgot I had/toggling the foglight switch, I have determined by clicking noises that it is the fog light relay  Still no light, so I took one apart and it is missing the entire socket. I didn't even bother to take apart the other one. Previous Owners 
The Royal Nonesuch fucked around with this message at 06:40 on Sep 11, 2014 |
|
#
¿
Sep 11, 2014 05:19
|
|
|
Man, I really want a good press. I keep finding reasons to get one, but space is at a premium and goddamn I need my own garage. Okay, so I bought a HF digital car stethoscope to try to figure out exactly where the knocking is coming from at idle on my 4.0 RENIX 4x4 auto. The knocking only starts after about ~5 miles of driving, the engine sounds great until then. It's pretty erratic; sometimes it's quite noticeable at stoplights and sometimes it's very soft. After a bit of stethoscope work, it is loudest at the bottom rear of the engine (measured against the oil pan), up near the bellhousing. It's quieter if I measure off the bellhousing, so I don't think it's the flexplate but I need to do a thorough visual inspection this Friday. Crankshaft bearings? Urgent or *shrug*?
|
|
#
¿
Nov 13, 2014 04:18
|
|
|
kastein posted:cross-referencing the OEM part number myself to get the right one. The guy at NAPA insisted on looking it up and told me it would never fit and gave me a fuckload of crap about it, I have started telling part-store monkeys the year/model/make/engine type/displacement of more commonly-used applications - I'm tired of trying to explain that yes, I do want that part for a jeep even though it doesn't show up on your little 88 XJ screen. The guys at my local OReillys know me though, and just get me whatever I ask for I'm trying to do the 96/97 Neon/Bosch 280 155 703 injector swap... found 4 injectors on a Sebring at the JY and struck out on more. Went up the street to a non-pull-yourself wrecker and inquired. The yard boss took one look at me and tried to charge me Güero tax of $35/ea for two injectors. I smiled and turned to leave, at which point the price became "what do you want to pay??". Then they didn't have the 703s and tried to sell me 740s which are very close but have different flow rates. Oh well, at least I got 4. Yesterday I installed a new IAC valve and added a new 6ga ground from the firewall to a fuel rail bolt... been trying to fix my rough idle. Lots of RENIX guides suggest adding new grounds to fix random issues, so I did that along with the IAC. One or the other made a big difference; it idles much smoother now so I'm stoked. Can't wait to pop the ev3-style injectors in. kastein posted:(you want an SKF 18108 seal for the rear output of the NP231 on a 96+ XJ... not whatever bullshit they want to give you. What a mess, every parts app database said it depended on whether it was an NP231 or an NP242, rather than 95- vs 96+ like it actually is.) Noted for future struggles. The Royal Nonesuch fucked around with this message at 08:22 on Nov 23, 2014 |
|
#
¿
Nov 23, 2014 08:20
|
|
|
Ouch. My new IAC was $33 
|
|
#
¿
Nov 23, 2014 18:07
|
|
|
We have about ten golf carts at work in my department alone (big campus), and my coworker who does a lot of the maintenance on them approached me to ask about purchasing supplies to upgrade the lovely battery cables on all of them with a larger gauge. I went back and found your battery-cable list, priced it out to supply ~100 batteries/200 cables at 1ft of 2ga each w/terminals and heatshrink, got it approved with my manager, and picked up one of those HF crimpers today.  I'd sure hate to explain frying 100 Interstate deep cycle cart batteries, so the first order of business will be to cut some custom-length test cables for the XJ 
|
|
#
¿
Jan 7, 2015 03:35
|
|
|
kastein posted:2ga is going to be stretching things a bit. I usually go with 4ga and the "00" dies for the crimper work perfectly, maybe even a little tight depending on the lugs I purchased that time around. If you have access to a mill, just take the set of dies you're least likely to use (I'd guess the smallest set, they would fit great on like a 20ga crimp and that's what a ratchet crimper is for, no need for hydro) and mill them out to the proper dimensions for #2 lugs and wire. Yeah, I'm gonna test it out with the largest die and see what happens. My coworker who will be doing all of the cart wires is kind of a muscle-freak and loves to force things, so I'm pretty sure he'll be fine. e: If it's not enough, well, I guess I'll just have to get a better/larger crimper approved for purchase
The Royal Nonesuch fucked around with this message at 04:11 on Jan 7, 2015 |
|
#
¿
Jan 7, 2015 04:05
|
|
|
Hahahahah that is a great photo. I can't wait to see what you do with that thing. Is it like, a true solid-axle 4x4?
|
|
#
¿
Mar 22, 2015 02:10
|
|
|
kastein posted:The T444E is simply not going to fit in the 5 ton however. It is several inches too wide to clear the power steering box. So it looks like I am back to my original plan of a 6CTA8.3 or 6BT5.9 in that. Sad, because the T444E was 500 bucks cheaper than the cheapest 5.9 I can find. As long as your kind-of-roof shelters you adequately from the Endor forest-moon rains, and the subaru gets you down the "driveway" to work, I fail to see what better ways you have to waste $500 on. Unless it's a V8 swap into one of the MJs, because I'm standing by with an open text document waiting to take notes.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 26, 2015 04:07
|
|
|
Got an electrical XJ question for you Ken, My 1988 XJ has factory running lights in the harness - the housings/bulbs were hosed on several levels (thanks previous owner(s)) so I snipped off the old units and spliced on cheapo Hella 500s. They're controlled on/off by the factory toggle switch to the left of the steering column. They work fine, except you can't run them simultaneously with the highbeams - as soon as I toggle brights on with the column lever, the running lights go off (I assume this is some factory legal requirement?). I'd like to be able to run both at once for nighttime desert stuff. Is there an easy fix for this, or is it limited due to alternator output or somesuch? Keep in mind I am extremely ignorant when it comes to electrical stuff, but I'm attempting to learn. So far I've hardwired in a 800w inverter via 6GA w/ a 150amp ANL fuse near the battery and crimped my own 2GA battery cables, but that's about it. I have both analogue & digital multimeters for RENIX sensor poo poo but am pretty vague as to their functions beyond what the Cruiser54 tips describe.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 8, 2015 07:29
|
|
|
Gotcha, thanks. I'll rewire that when I get the chance.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 8, 2015 17:08
|
|
|
Ken was it you who almost crushed my poor old jeep last weekend?  
|
|
#
¿
May 17, 2016 03:57
|
|
|
When I got my TPS nice and wet once it did that idle at 2500rpm thing for a day or two at random but never did it again. I also recently bit the bullet and spent $32 on a MOPAR thermostat and it fixed my overcooling/slow warmup instantly. Before that I had mixed luck with both Standt and Motorad - the OEM is made by Motorad but in Israel instead of Mexico or China... seems like a lot of recent consensus points towards it being the only good one out there these days.
|
|
#
¿
May 29, 2016 19:27
|
|
|
That J10 paint scheme is rad as gently caress. I have been wanting a J10 lately and this isn't helping drat you. Looking forward to seeing it progress!
|
|
#
¿
Sep 25, 2016 07:41
|
|
|
kastein posted:
Uh yeah you did, I'm jealous of your local yards. I have a couple of local pick-n-pulls - at location A I once got charged $4/ea for the shagged ujoints in a driveshaft. At location B the clerk charged me $20 for a front XJ skidplate (fair imo), and the (armed) guy who checks receipts stopped me because "that isn't enough, something isn't right here". I rarely go junkyarding anymore and when I have to, I take certain liberties regarding the transport of small items such as old RENIX IAT sensors etc. Getting detained by an armed guard over a paid-for, filthy skidplate that was destined for the crusher kind of ended my enthusiasm for Los Angeles junkyarding. Now I just drive 40min to a guy who specializes in scrapping XJs and has parts meticulously organized down to 10A fuse level, and is happy to let you wander around his shop/storage. Also holy poo poo those Yukon doors are clean as gently caress, around here they would have been pulled immediately and resold out of some hombre's CONEX in the parking lot.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 3, 2017 05:17
|
|
|
DJ Commie posted:I never had any problems at LA junkyards, I used to spend weekends at the Wilmington Pick Your Parts and the Santa Fe Springs Ecology. Even the weird yards in Sun Valley were nice because I always was super friendly when I went in. It also helps to speak spanish. Some really rough places got the breaker bar carried on top of the toolbox, but through hundreds of visits I never had any problems. Yeah I dunno, I'm chill with the entry guys but I admit my spanish is poo poo. I'm referring specifically to the Monrovia & Santa Fe Springs LKQ/Ecologys - I forgot about the Sun Valley location; those dudes were cool and that yard is really clean. The Monrovia location is seedy as gently caress and SF springs is where the armed guard stopped me. Maybe I just have bad luck. edit: I never felt I had to carry the breaker bar up top, once I was inside the yards everyone was really cool and I loaned guys tools etc... it was just the guys at the front gate/cashier that got weird. The Royal Nonesuch fucked around with this message at 05:37 on Feb 3, 2017 |
|
#
¿
Feb 3, 2017 05:35
|
|
|
DJ Commie posted:I always greet the security guards on the way in, I always volunteer my bag/box for inspection and usually say some inane poo poo about the weather or ask how their day is going. Brightens up the day of anyone. Honestly, you'd be sour too if you're just scowled at by people pocketing injectors and trying to sneak out worn out garbage. I think SFS Ecology is a scrap recycler too and there is no worse place for humanity circling the drain than there.  Yeah you nailed it - when I was trying to find some bosch/volvo injectors for my Jeep it was incredible how every single rail had been pulled and stripped (I finally just bought some on ebay). I'm always super friendly with security guys wherever I go; I work in that field and spent my own time standing around dealing with assholes and contemplating the most interesting way to end myself.Anyway enough derail - I am looking very forward to the Honcho rebuild and seeing it run some trails. How is the suspension? Does it need a fuckload of new bushings or is it relatively good? What's the axle/locker status?
|
|
#
¿
Feb 3, 2017 05:54
|
|
|
kastein posted:
|
|
#
¿
Aug 25, 2017 20:07
|
|
|
kastein posted:Never driving tired again. Dang man, glad you're unscathed, I need my future honcho updates! Didn't something similar happen when you were driving the 5ton back years ago?
|
|
#
¿
Jan 24, 2018 02:46
|
|
|
kastein posted:rockauto wants like 2.50. and there are 16. 
|
|
#
¿
Jan 22, 2021 02:58
|
|
|
kastein posted:Can't find anyone who sells an 87-90 4.0L Cherokee/Comanche stainless downpipe, only 91+ stainless or 87-90 mild steel. I sold my 88 a year ago because of poo poo like this, in combination with Cali/LA emissions horseshit. The part databases are starting to get confused/forget the difference between 87-90 and 91+ and I was beginning to suspect the modern steel-bodied NTK/NGK etc 02 sensors don't function quite the same as the old ceramic ones that are increasingly harder to find. I posted about it a bit in the NAXJA 02 sensor thread (lol) but saw the writing on the wall and sold it to some starry-eyed kid within 60 days of it squeaking through it's biannual legit smog test. I gave him my entire kit of various 02 sensors, unobtainable renix MAT sensors I carefully harvested from junkyards, and printouts of incredibly obtuse multimeter troubleshooting tips from the oldschool guys on NAXJA. He was too busy texting to listen to my stoic warnings, but godspeed nonetheless...  
|
|
#
¿
Oct 18, 2022 06:13
|
|
|
kastein posted:As of my last post I had just noticed that the blue truck was starting to smell rather strongly of gas. Weird. I put the yellow 746 volvo injectors in my 88 renix some years ago before I sold it. They did improve the idle quality, and I didn't have to worry about the OEM split design suddenly leaking fuel all over the manifolds on a hot day in the Mohave desert, but that was it. I obsessively tracked mileage on the old rig between mods and they didn't make a difference. I rattlecanned them black so they wouldn't catch the eye of my admittedly cool CA SMOG tech guy, and as far as I know they're still out there not leaking fuel and doing their job while it struggles to pass NOX. The only approved butt-dyno greybeard mod I can vouch for is strokedjeep's bored throttle body. That was a fun week of driving before I grew accustomed to it.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 22, 2023 06:24
|
|
|
kastein posted:Does the throttle body change actually improve top end, or just give quicker tip-in due to the same throttle plate angle change down low giving more effective throttle opening area? I've always wondered. I'd say the latter; mostly the low end/getting off the line. I installed mine about 6months after I did my lift/tires, and for a week or so it felt like I was back on the stock tiresize taking off from lights, etc.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 22, 2023 20:56
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 2, 2024 21:21 |
|
|
Day late and a dollar short etc, but for future reference I rebuilt a couple sets of those injectors with this kit, and they worked great. Nice because the 8 set gives you a couple spares in case of Jeep. https://tradergreg.ecrater.com/p/10991633/bosch-type-3-fuel-injector-o-rings
|
|
#
¿
Mar 24, 2023 07:24
|
|