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Graniteman posted:You are a better man than I am for sure. I use a 100-400 and I must not have the skills. I start zoomed out to 100 to acquire focus / find the bird as it flies by, then snap zoom in to track it through the shot I want to take. If I only had the center point I don't know how I'd be able to get it to focus. Yeah, center point is the way to go for birds in flight. If you use the full range of points, you'll end up grabbing the background/foreground and miss the shot completely. The 7D center point must be something special though because when I was using one for birds, I almost never had problems getting good focus on the center. It would snap right to what I was aiming at. With my 1D, there seems to be a hazy circle around my center point that can randomly grab focus. I've tested it repeatedly and checked my photos with the focus points overlaid and I can be absolutely dead on target and miss focus if what I'm aiming at isn't at least twice as big as the focus point in the viewer. This sucks if you want to, say, make sure you're aimed at the head of a bird that's turned perpendicular to the sensor. I never had that problem with the 7D. Of course the 7D can't track for poo poo so I guess it balances out. A couple of things that can help with birds in flight shots: if your camera supports it, set your AI Servo tracking sensitivity to "slow". This will help you keep focus if your point strays off target momentarily. Also, disabling focus search is really helpful. If your focus point slips off, your camera is less likely to rack your lens looking for something else to focus on. This means you may need to pre focus manually when you see the bird coming. As for technique, it can be helpful to tap the focus periodically until you are ready to take the shot rather than hold the focus button down and try to track the bird perfectly through it's flight path.
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Sep 6, 2013 19:11
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INTJ Mastermind posted:I think the 7D can also do center point with AF expansion, where it mostly uses the center point, but if you're off slightly, it will switch to one of the four points bordering it. Helps people like me with bad aim. The 1D does that too, but it's in menu settings and you don't get feedback through the viewfinder. When I had a 7D I tried using the expansion point and it was decent for flight shots but it sucked for trying to shoot birds flopping around in a bush or tall grass so I just ended up keeping it on centerpoint all the time. I think its probably better in the long run to practice good panning technique anyway. Flight shots are hard as poo poo no matter what. I posted this in the bird photography thread but it should probably get mentioned here too: Sigma is working on long, wide aperture primes. They're looking to directly compete with Canon/Nikon on big glass like 300mm / 400mm f2.8's and 500mm / 600mm f4's with OS. No word on when they're expected or where they might be priced but at a guess they will be significantly cheaper and nearly as good. Or if their 35mm f1.4 is any indication, they might just be better they won't be.
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Sep 6, 2013 20:47
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Stay away from the 1Ds. It's a capable camera but really overpriced for the feature set and age, the low light performance is pretty poor and it's a total dog for resale. If you are interested in pro models, you can probably get a good deal on a used 1DmkIII for about what that 1Ds is going for. The 7D is still an excellent crop body, though. I'm kinda bummed I sold mine but I couldn't afford both my mark IV and the 7D. Of course, the main question is what would you be using it for? e: Also, I have a question for the thread. Does anyone have problems with batteries discharging when not used? Is this a normal thing? I don't ever remember it being a problem with my 7D but then I always had the batteries loaded in a grip and not sitting in my bag. I just popped a battery in that I had charged and tested that it was at 100% maybe 2 weeks ago, and now it's at < 50%. This is something I've noticed with my two other batteries (I have 1 Canon, 2 off-brand) as well. Is this normal, something to do with the LP-E4 specifically or do I just have three poo poo batteries? 800peepee51doodoo fucked around with this message at 22:20 on Sep 7, 2013 |
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Sep 7, 2013 22:13
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TheQat posted:Ah yeah, I forgot to mention my typical subjects. I mainly do pets and bugs, but also a fair amount of kid photography and fireworks. Museum trips are a priority. I also love to play around with long-exposure night shots in general. Yeah, I'd probably look more towards the 7D or, if you can make the stretch in cost, the 5DmkII. It doesn't sound like you need a pro body for any reason. Honestly, for what you are shooting, I'd save up for a little bit longer and go with the full frame.
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Sep 7, 2013 22:51
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Get the mkIV. Its vastly superior to the 7D in virtually every way, especially for sports. The mkIV sensor will give more detail, better low light performance, a little more fov and the AF is miles ahead of anything short of the 1Dx.
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Sep 10, 2013 00:10
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dakana posted:please be full frame please be full frame Why would anyone make a 135 for a crop? I don't think 216mm is a coveted focal range. Combat Pretzel posted:I rather want to know whether that 24-70mm f/2.0 is going to happen or not. Gonna be a rather big lens, if so. I can't imagine it will be a 24-70 f2. It seems like that would be way too big and heavy for what most people would be using it for. Just adding OS and improving the IQ of their current model would be a huge deal, seeing as how Canon poo poo the bed by not putting IS on their 24-70 mkII. Seriously Canon, you put IS on lovely kit lenses but not on one of the most popular pro lenses you make. WTF Canon. W. T. F.
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Sep 10, 2013 21:51
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Shellman posted:So what's the general consensus on 6d vs. 5dmk3? Most of the photographers I've talked to talk up the 6d as a cheaper option that they would rather use than the 5dmk3. It seems like the primary advantage of the mk3 is less shutter lag and a poo poo-gently caress-ton of AF points? I'm so used to focus-recompose using the center AF point that I'm not sure I'd really even use them, but who knows. Then again, the mk2 and mk3 are both sold out from Canon's refurb program... Like everything camera related, the question would be what are you using it for? If I were in the market for a full frame, my concerns would be AF tracking, burst-rate, and whether it had a CF card slot, along with low-light performance, making the 5dmkIII the clear choice. If you aren't shooting action those things might matter a lot less than having the extra cash in your pocket.
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Sep 16, 2013 16:36
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Seamonster posted:6D has the lowest long exposure noise: Uh, those are huge crops of long exposures of the inside of a lens cap. Real world differences are basically nil. The 5DmkIII is still the best camera of the lot. The only real advantages to the 70D over the 5DmkIII is price and the LiveView focusing, which is apparently pretty awesome but is more a feature for videographers. The 6D is great by all accounts, especially for the price, but it's essentially a stripped down 5D. If money is no object, the 5DmkIII is the way to go, just for the AF if nothing else, but if money is a concern (and when is it ever not?) then the 6D is drat good alternative.
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Sep 19, 2013 20:18
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erephus posted:If I would have wanted to use a flash to light up that portrait. The shutter speed is 1/200 on that picture and high speed sync would not have been needed? But if it would have been 1/800 then high speed sync would have been needed? Yes erephus posted:High speed sync is only usable when the flash is mounted on the camera? Depends. A flash with HSS can be used off shoe with a TTL cord or some wireless radio triggers like pocket wizards or these yongnuos. Cheaper manual only triggers won't support it. I believe that the Canon 580EXII and 600RT support HSS as optical slaves (using your camera flash as optical master) but I'm not 100% on that since I don't own either. erephus posted:Would an external flash been strong enough to remove the shadows on that picture? If I remember right I am standing around 19ft (6 meter) away. Maybe, but I doubt it. Thats a pretty strong contrast between shadow and harsh sunlight. erephus posted:I believe that both of the flashes mentioned above is triggered by the built in flash. On this picture, if I had the external flash placed on the right to get the flash slightly closer would I have been able to trigger the camera with/from the external flash? Do you mean would you be able to trigger the flash off camera? Yes. If you are asking if you can use a flash to remote trigger your shutter, I don't think so. You can get a wireless remote pretty cheap though!
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Sep 29, 2013 00:24
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emotive posted:Anyone have any experience shooting motorsports with a 6D? I'm entertaining the idea of going full frame but a 5D3 is way out of scope. What are you shooting with now? I don't have a 6D but from everything I've read about it, it doesn't really seem appropriate for sports/action photography because of the slower AF tracking speed and the low burst rate. Maybe that doesn't matter as much for panning shots? If you do primarily sports and action, have you considered a 1D? The mark III goes for a little less than a refurb 6D and it's still an amazing camera. The FOV is better than a standard crop, even if it isn't full frame plus you get fantastic AF and burst rate.
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Oct 7, 2013 20:26
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TheQat posted:Can anyone summarize why the 1DIII is still $1200 used (same price as a new 70D with twice as many pixels)? I think I know in principle but it just kind of blows my mind Pro models always seem to hold resale value much better than prosumer models. Part of it seems to be just that its "pro". The other part of it is that the AF system is better, they are completely weather sealed, they have two card slots, blazing burst speeds/big buffers, heavy duty shutters and bright viewfinders. A third reason is that every subsequent pro model that Canon puts out is more expensive than the last, which actually serves to pull up prices for used older models. The mkIII is still an awesome camera for sports/wildlife if a mkIV, 5dIII or 1Dx is out of reach but yeah, it should really be worth more like $800 or so.
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Oct 7, 2013 21:10
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e: ^^^^ or the Sigma 120-300 f/2.8 OS!emotive posted:I use a 60D now, which does okay, but I feel better results can be had. I would even consider jumping to a 7D if the AF system is a big improvement over the 60D (I haven't researched it too much), but I'm very attracted to the benefits of FF. I'm not sure I'd miss the extra reach of the crop sensor, especially since I plan on buying a 2x extender eventually for track use. I think the 6d would be awesome for car portraiture, especially night shots. I was very happy with the 7D's AF performance for the most part, although the tracking is better on the 1 series. I haven't missed the reach advantage of the crop sensor since moving to the APS-H and I'd be willing to bet that the low noise full frame sensor in the 6D would let you crop nicely. A word of warning on the extenders, if you go that route - 2x extenders slow AF focus speed by 75% along with dropping your aperture 2 stops. You can really only use them on f2.8 lenses if you use anything but a 1 series body.
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Oct 7, 2013 21:57
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Pablo Bluth posted:I'm not sure anyone has ever really loved the x2 extender. With the right lens, the 1.4x can be part of a combo that is as good as anything else out there, and people will sing its praise. By comparison, the suggestion of using a x2 seems to be, without fail, caveated with a warning about slow AF and loss of sharpness. Well, I actually use the 2x extender mkII on my 300 f/2.8 about 90-95% of the time for what I do (birds and wildlife). The only better option available is high 4- / low 5-figure glass that I just can't afford atm. To be honest though, IQ and sharpness doesn't really suffer all that much; the main hits are to AF speed and aperture. There are some benefits, too. Having a hand-holdable 600mm with a 3m minimum focus distance is pretty awesome for what I do. It just doesn't sound like its a real advantage to sports shooting or really anything else. Just for fun the other day, I decided to try out stacking my 2x and 1.4x tc's on my 300 (840mm!) to see how well that worked. Not bad really, at least not for web postin'. Here's a house finch in my backyard: 
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Oct 8, 2013 01:46
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jsmith114 posted:Any ideas? I don't think that's something you can fix yourself, if that's what you mean. Repair costs are likely to be about the same as a replacement. KEH has a BGN rated 40D for $235 right now and they seem to be going for ~$250 on ebay. Canon service will probably be more than the camera is worth, tbh. If you live in a bigger city you might check around and see if there's a Canon certified independent repair shop in your area or try getting an estimate from someplace like Midwest Camera Repair. If you do end up getting a replacement, you can sell off your busted camera to help offset the cost. People buy broken cameras on ebay for more than you'd think a lot of the time.
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Oct 13, 2013 04:20
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Mest0r posted:I was thinking about picking up a 5D classic sometime in the future since it's relatively cheap for a full frame DSLR and I don't really need the more modern performance of the Mark II or III. Is there anything that I need to look out for when trying to pick one up since these cameras are at least going to be 5 years old at this point? Or has the reliability been pretty solid? Look out for err99 codes or ask the seller if this has ever come up. I had a second hand 5D classic for a while that died a slow death accompanied by gradually more frequent err99's.
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Oct 15, 2013 04:04
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Sorely tempted to buy this and try taking it down to the local repair shop: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=251359036380&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en If it works, its a $4500 lens for almost half price. If it doesn't, it's a $2000 paperweight. Talk me out of this madness.
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Oct 16, 2013 21:10
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Yeah, that's what I needed to hear. I'm such a low bagger. I always want to buy broken poo poo to fix because lookit how cheap it is! It usually works out ok but this one's real iffy. I'm pretty sure I've seen this lens posted up on ebay before, too, just not listed as broken.
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Oct 16, 2013 21:30
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You don't need anything more than a one of those squeeze bulb brush things. Cleaning solutions can possibly leave residues on the sensor and they aren't necessary anyway. Just lock up the mirror and gently blow/brush the sensor while holding the camera upside down. Take a test shot of a white piece of paper to check for dust. Repeat as necessary. Preventing the dust in the first place is tough. Dust is gonna get in every time you change a lens. Just be careful when you're changing lenses and make sure they're clean when attaching them, that's about all you can do.
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Oct 19, 2013 15:43
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If the mirror functions fine (ie goes up and down without getting stuck) and the mark doesn't inhibit your view through the viewfinder, you're probably ok. I can't imagine it would be worth the expense to have that fixed unless it's causing noticeable problems. Just be careful putting lenses on there, especially old MF lenses that may or may not stick into the mirror box. Some of those m42's might seem fine until you focus them out to infinity. E: Actually, on second thought check carefully to make sure the mirror doesn't have a crack in it. The pic makes it look like a scuff but if there is crack, it might break into the mirror box at some point. Scuff is probably no worries but a crack could be problematic. 800peepee51doodoo fucked around with this message at 20:39 on Oct 21, 2013 |
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Oct 21, 2013 20:35
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Combat Pretzel posted:--ninja edit: The 6D is essentially a way improved 5Dii. I don't know about "way" improved. The sensor has better low light performance but the AF is the same and the body is smaller, made of plastic and it has a simplified control scheme. If it were me, I wouldn't go through the effort to switch from the mkii to the 6d unless I really needed the bump in low light performance.
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Oct 23, 2013 22:42
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Mightaswell posted:Plus you lose 1/8000, and get a slower flash sync, if those things matter to you at all. Deal breaker. I only shoot wide open on salt flats at noon.
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Oct 24, 2013 01:42
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flummox posted:The 6d's body is magnesium. The top cover is polycarbonate because the wifi won't work in an all-metal body. It feels just as solid as a 5d in any case. Oh, I guess I misunderstood that. I thought it was an all plastic body. Combat Pretzel posted:The AF is more sensitive to light. The center point, anyway. Actually, it is the most sensitive of any Canon DSLRs, with -3EV. As such, it is better. Eh, technically. Every review I've seen says it is a little better in low light but its still a single cross type and the tracking is mediocre. The 7D has a better overall AF system and it came out in 2009. Canon could have included the 7d's AF system, or something like it with the more sensitive center point, and had a killer little FF at a great price point with room to grow into the 5dIII. Even with the features available in the 6d it still feels like Canon held back on it. Not that its not an awesome camera, mind, it just doesn't seem like much of an upgrade to the 5dII. Its an entry point for people looking to jump to full frame.
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Oct 24, 2013 19:19
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1st AD posted:It screams "we stole a pallet of 6D's" to me. My guess would be grey market.
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Oct 24, 2013 23:50
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Pablo Bluth posted:Or you can use gphoto2, which is open source. (I'm up to about 35k in 34 months of 7D ownership) I'd wager its probably about a billion times easier to just download a $2 phone app than try to gently caress with linux bullshit.
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Oct 25, 2013 20:15
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notwithoutmyanus posted:chainfires dslr controller does this too. Huh, did not know it did this. Its a great app and chainfire is a pretty cool dude.
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Oct 26, 2013 20:49
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Rumored specs of the 7DII from CanonRumors: 20MP or 24MP sensor with Dual Pixel CMOS AF Auto-Focus system similar to the EOS 5D Mark III (61 points), possibly the same as 5D3 High frame rate, 10-12 fps “high grade” weather sealing, like Canon’s professional DSLRs Dual Digic V+ processor Single card slot WiFi & GPS Innovative video features Price around $2000 Very good ISO performance
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Oct 27, 2013 19:13
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1st AD posted:What does "innovative" video features even mean. Focus peaking and zebras. Official RAW video support. Haha who am I kidding, they're gonna port the 70D live view AF and call it a day. Wario In Real Life posted:Cut that list in half and you might be close. Canon fans should know better by now. If the half they keep is the 5DIII AF system, 10fps burst, and better high iso performance it would be a camera worth looking at. I'd be surprised if it gets priced at ~$2000 though.
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Oct 27, 2013 20:48
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InternetJunky posted:Haha. Maybe a year after release. I think what they mean there is that the price will begin with the number 2. 2899. 2999. Something like that. Wario In Real Life posted:Reminder that the 7D is a crop sensor. Even with the features listed in the wish list, more than 2k is getting into weary territory for a crop. Well, the 7D is basically seen as a baby 1 series and there are plenty of people who've been wanting a crop pro model for a while. Plus this is Canon "30% across the board price hike because gently caress you" Corporation we're talking about here.
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Oct 27, 2013 21:57
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Rumor sites are all speculating that its something lovely like an SL1/Rebel with a white body. Because Koreans like white things or something.
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Nov 9, 2013 20:42
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Casu Marzu posted:I'm split right now. My 60D's AF makes me want to smash it and light it on fire. I can't decide if I should look into grabbing a lightly used 7D, a new 70D or just giving up and going with a whole new system in the OMD. The 7D has a pretty excellent AF system. Not as good as the 1 series AF but better than the 60D for sure. I used the 7D for bird photography for a while and AF was not one of my complaints. Center point expansion did a good job of tracking birds in flight.
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Nov 11, 2013 00:24
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Shmoogy posted:All the tilts hold their value, but if/when a 45 version 2 comes out, it'll take a drop. Used prices for lenses actually tend to jump up a bit when Canon releases new versions. I saw it happen with the 24-70vII and back when the vII's of the big super teles came out. The new and improved price tags pulled up the prices on the used market as well.
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Nov 22, 2013 18:13
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The on-camera buffer can handle 94 jpegs or 15 RAW photos. The write speed of the card determines how long it takes to clear that buffer so that you can start shooting again. 266x is fine unless you are just constantly blasting away. I've never had a problem with the Kingston cards I've used.
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Dec 2, 2013 22:28
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Raikyn posted:Looking to pass it on, but in todays world it's only 8 meg, and it is really hard to educate on why a 8meg pro camera is better than a 20 meg poo poo camera. They still go for about $500 on ebay if they are in good shape but it might be a hard sell on craigslist or somewhere else. I really wished I'd gotten mine before I had gone out and got a 40D when I was first getting into wildlife shooting. The AF on the 1dIIn is still better than on any other camera body short of the 5dIII or more current 1 series. Megapixels dont matter if the shot is out of focus. Its also got a high burst rate, weather sealing, integrated grip, awesome AF and the APS-H even at 8mp punches above its weight for IQ. The only real (major) downside is the poor high ISO performance. If you can find someone who wants to get started in sports or wildlife shooting but doesn't have much money it should be easy enough to sell.
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Dec 6, 2013 17:34
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Infinite Karma posted:The crop sensor is mathematically no better than a full-frame if you're going for reach. The "extra" reach is because the sensor only captures the center 60% of the image, which is exactly the same as if you cropped that percentage of pixels from the center of a full-frame. A full-frame sensor has the same pixel density as a crop-frame, it's just a bigger area being exposed. Like the other guys said, there's a difference in pixel pitch between a full frame and a crop, generally. Usually the reason that someone would want a 7D over, say, a 5DII for birds/wildlife is that the crop has a lot more pixels/mm which, in theory, will give a higher level of detail over a smaller section of the frame. More pixels on subject, better feather detail. In practice, there's barely a difference because noise becomes an issue really quickly and a full frame will handle noise much better, even cropped down.
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Dec 12, 2013 19:52
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Quantum of Phallus posted:There was something posted here (or somewhere in The Dorkroom anyway) a while back about how like FF cameras from years ago are technically better than most modern crop sensors, I think it was in terms of sharpness. Full frame sensors are better with noise just because they are physically larger. A 5D classic will tend to be better in that regard than a more modern crop sensor. Of course, modern sensors will have other advantages its just that the technology available can only go so far to mitigate the physical differences in sensor size when it comes to noise.
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Dec 12, 2013 21:05
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Even though it hasn't been a problem for like 15 years that concern is real enough for people that Sigma made a USB docking station for their new lens lineup so you can (hopefully) update the firmware to be compatible if Canon ever changes their protocols.
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Dec 14, 2013 20:43
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rcman50166 posted:Anyone here ever use the Canon 400mm f/5.6L? I just discovered that if I'm lucky I could score one for $1000. I want to make sure it's worth the purchase. It would be a specialty lens that I would only use for sports and birds. Yeah, I used one for quite a while. Its pretty great. Super sharp and very lightweight. I'm actually a little bummed I sold mine.
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Dec 15, 2013 01:49
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Pablo Bluth posted:If you can't afford even a second-hand 500/600/800 don't ever try one. They're like crack. Yeah. A friend of mine just got a 500 and let me use it for a bit. So nice. I've been (slowly) saving up for a 500/600 and after using his I've been racking my brain for ideas that will somehow magically make $6000 materialize.
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Dec 15, 2013 16:37
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Seamonster posted:How is it "making GBS threads" over the 24-105L? I can see that its indeed better at the wide end but slightly worse at the long end. Also, I can't find the Sigma for less than $850 while the Canon can be had for less than $700 at times. It may be better but its nowhere near the levels of ownage that the 35mm ART is over the 35mmL. Sure, people moving into full frame with no FF lenses and therefore have to get one can spring for the Sigma but if you've already got a 24-105L don't bother lifting a finger. The Sig 24-105 isn't that awesome of a deal for Canonhavers for all the reasons you listed. It is pretty awesome if you are Nikon or Sony user, though. In other Sigma news, it looks like they might be releasing a 135 f/2 Art sometime next year and announcing a line of fast, long Sport telephotos - 300 & 400 f/2.8 and 500 & 600 f/4 are expected. Should be very exciting!
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Dec 17, 2013 06:27
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Yongnuo is supposed to be releasing a clone of the Canon 600ex-rt pretty soon. Should be pretty awesome and likely half of what Canon's costs.
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Jan 9, 2014 21:33
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