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5D Mk IV announcement in 3... 2... 1... (also gently caress customs, the grey market 5D Mk III costs 1999 pounds over here)
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Feb 18, 2015 19:02
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I CANNOT EJACULATE WITHOUT SEEING NATIVE AMERICANS BRUTALISED!
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In addition, by the point you seriously need to upgrade to a better camera you're more likely to have some serious pieces of glass beyond the light and handy kit lens. Holding a heavy camera+lens forward or turning it down and back up to look at the main screen gets annoying really quickly when you could take a quick peek at the little screen on top instead. Most high end cameras come with an option to display settings on the main screen and unless you're using live view and/or a tripod, that's fairly worthless.
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Feb 19, 2015 00:04
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timrenzi574 posted:Nobody will ever know because canons grading system for weather sealing is 'much like (insert 20 year old film body here) level' Because saying "this camera tested to IP54" would mean that "warranty doesn't cover water damage" doesn't fly anymore. Infinite Karma posted:I guess using the rear LCD just gave me different habits for how I hold the camera; I never felt like the controls or rear LCD placement were inconvenient, even when I was using heavier lenses. I was shooting with a friend who has a 40D, and I felt like I was all thumbs trying to hold the camera below me to see the shoulder LCD, while still playing with the control wheel (which felt chintzy to me). Looking at some pictures of the 60D and 70D, maybe the 40D's controls are just bad. The 40D layout is  The expectation is to never take your left hand off the lens and never take your right hand far away from the shutter, and to keep the camera pointed forwards so you can just put your eye on the viewfinder, hit the autofocus button (the autofocus gets mapped to a thumb button and away from the shutter so you can leave autofocus set to on and AI Servo yet still have manual focus with USM lenses whenever you want) and take a picture 
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Feb 19, 2015 00:49
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Speaking of which, I'd sort of like to have a travel tele (plus shooting the occasional animal, flying birds would be nice but are not required  ) that's substantially lighter than a 70-200/2.8 IS. The 70-300 DO seems to fit the bill, but I've heard bad things about the 70-300 DO's IS and image quality wide open. In addition, is its autofocus reasonably fast? Should I get the DO or save up for the L?
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Feb 19, 2015 09:42
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Combat Pretzel posted:They're both the same lens. Old brand names that  might still remember, or brand names that sound like old photo equipment brands/not foreign. Not that anyone actually cares.
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Feb 25, 2015 16:33
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and you can even register a different af point (I haven't figured out how though)
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Mar 9, 2015 00:00
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Mightaswell posted:God drat. If only Canon could make sensors as well as they make bodies and optics. There is a Canon-to-Sony NEX adapter, you know. With working AF and IS. Adapt your mirrorless to a n0n0 posted:It's on this page. What's even cooler, in my opinion, is that you can set the two buttons to automatically switch between zone focus and spot focus, or between smaller-zone focus and whole-zone focus. Here is an explanation on how to set that up. Ok, I want to have a second MFn button on the 5d Mark III now Is there any way to put exposure lock and FEL on the same button press (do exposure lock if no flash attached, and do FEL if flash attached)? e: imagine you saw a 500/4 L IS (the mkI version) for sale that looks like it's been used alternatingly as a baseball bat and as a hammer, but it's (supposedly) fine on the inside... suck my woke dick fucked around with this message at 00:04 on Mar 10, 2015 |
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Mar 9, 2015 23:59
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Combat Pretzel posted:Which are? Five figures. timrenzi574 posted:I just went through this with a 120-300 sport that was pretty scuffed up for 1200$ less than new.. Congrats, have fun with it. "Pretty scuffed up" doesn't even begin to describe the 500: it's covered in chips in the paint covering old chips in the original paint, and there's literally parts broken off the ridge the lens hood sits on. I guess I'll ask the seller if he minds me trying the thing out before paying
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Mar 11, 2015 00:49
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I have an issue with the zoom rings on a 24-105 and a 70-200 IS II which have gotten quite a bit (2-3mm) of play before catching and actually operating the zoom. In the case of the 24-105, that problem has developed in about 2 months after buying. Are there any easily accessed screws to fix that or should I just send the lot to Canon?
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Apr 12, 2015 19:25
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Keep it in rice for a little longer. Chances are there's still some residual water left that could move/evaporate and condensate on something important, so better to dry it out completely.
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May 10, 2015 10:27
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Yeah. Considering Canon have done a good job with the 40/2.8 STM, they seem to be able to make optically good lenses on the cheap so 50/1.8 STM should also be reasonably good. Oh well, time for a new nifty fifty
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May 11, 2015 10:50
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dakana posted:One of the big advantages of the 17-40, and a good chunk of its increased cost, is the fact that it's a full-frame lens. There's also a 16-35/4 IS that's sort of replacing the 17-40.
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May 23, 2015 19:45
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Don't buy the 75-300 lens. On a crop camera, the 55-250 IS STM is better in every way.
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Jun 8, 2015 14:06
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Shampy posted:I really appreciate your guys advice. Small issue though, we are trying to make our purchase on Amazon due to rewards/finance deals. My girlfriend came back at me with a T5i suggestion. It seems like the difference isn't huge unless we are shooting video? Am I wrong? Point by point breakdown of why that kit is poo poo: You mainly get: * a T5i which is a decent camera (but a 60D is nicer if you are ok with having a bulkier camera). * 18-55 IS - it doesn't say in the description if it's the IS STM or the older and less good IS * 2 transcend memory cards of moderate capacity, for reasons I guess. Transcend cards are ok and aren't likely to fail on you, but putting a 8 and 16gb card in the kit instead of a 32 gb one is pretty obvious dumping of leftover stock and you will lose the one that's not in your camera * a ~*~professional~*~ wide angle lens, which is actually a screw-on converter and crap (all are crap compared to an actual lens, and the generic ones in kits are particularly crap) * a ~*~professional~*~ tele lens, which is actually a screw-on converter and crap (all are crap compared to an actual lens, and the generic ones in kits are particularly crap) * lovely filters that will flare terribly * a flash that's as good as the integrated one at best and probably is a manual flash which you don't want for casual photography * a ~*~professional~*~ ~*~durable~*~ tripod which is actually cheap alumininum tubing held together by flimy plastic, and will wobble all the time and break * various small bits and pieces which are ok but not terribly important (except the remote control, which is hard to get wrong)
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Jun 9, 2015 15:13
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this is so half-correct it hurts
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Jun 11, 2015 10:14
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d0s posted:Does it seem likely Canon will make an 80D or something with a full frame sensor or is that a crazy dream? It's called a 6D Mk II
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Jun 12, 2015 22:15
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Anubis posted:Well yeah, why would they buy the 500mm when there's that 600mm available for only 2.5k more? Because you can always buy a TC to be more flexible and carry less weight? Also x 500 f/4 L IS USM II owner's club member checking in* *hopefully, soon-ish, have yet to find the money
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Aug 31, 2015 21:02
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Bubbacub posted:Assuming your lens is optically perfect, the diffraction limit depends on your aperture. You have to stop down a bit to get to that point (~f8 for APS-C and ~f11 for FF), so your pixel sizes still have plenty of margin for normal usage. Oh come on now, even the MP-E 65 has an open aperture of f/16-ish at 5x magnification and is reasonably sharp till f/32
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Sep 9, 2015 14:05
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Bubbacub posted:I forgot that you could even get a sharp image with the MP-E until I used it at 1x for some frogs and moths. Amazingly, it often gives you suck my woke dick fucked around with this message at 13:41 on Sep 10, 2015 |
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Sep 10, 2015 13:38
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timrenzi574 posted:https://instagram.com/p/7dEKUdoomn/?taken-by=popphotomag It's also going to cost $texas. I want one. toxicsunset posted:is the 70d good, is it worth selling an old t2i and upgrading, i shoot sports and video (of sports) for fun It has better autofocus. If the t2i's autofocus is not sufficient, upgrading may be worth it. However, it would help to know which lenses you have because it may or may not be more important to upgrade those.
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Sep 10, 2015 23:01
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EF 600 f/4 L IS USM II + 2xTC superiority I'm sure you could spend $500 on it. That is, yearly, as insurance, after buying the thing.
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Oct 8, 2015 14:53
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windex posted:To try to rationalize why I think this: I do a ton of handheld night photography and I rented a 5D mkIII this weekend as I noted I was debating buying one recently in the thread, and the mirror is really goddamned annoying. Locking up the mirror means using the fixed LCD. No focus peaking means largely using the AF. All of these things I do not like when combined. If I wanted to set up a tripod for every shot, it would be perfect. This is why I stopped using the 70D. I passed on buying one for now as a result. How do you take handheld photos at night that aren't completely blurry at conditions so dark an OVF becomes unusable (or do you have less sensitive eyes than average)?
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Oct 27, 2015 09:46
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dorkasaurus_rex posted:Can anyone recommend extension tubes for the 5D Mk3 mount? Firstly, I want some that will allow my Sigma 150-500 to go "farther" (i.e., 700mm-1000mm) if at all possible, and I'd also like something that would allow my Zeiss 35mm to operate as a macro. I don't know anything about these, but I just want more flexibility with my existing lenses. Note that apart from the resolution concerns making a teleconverter pointleiss, the sigma also has an open f/stop of 6.3 (reported to the camera as 5.6 in software so autofocus works), which will turn into f/9 (reported as f8, probably?), making this lens really really dark so you won't reasonably handhold it anymore, IS or no. As extension tubes, get the Kenko ones for great quality at a price that's still kinda high but not completely ridiculous like the canon original extension tubes. On a 35mm lens, your working distance will be sort of low though, there's a reason most macros are 100mm-ish and very few are below 50mm.
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Dec 20, 2015 09:20
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quote:4K at 60 fps ok this will become our new lab camera I wonder if there'll also be a 1080p at 240fps mode once the camera is supported in Magic Lantern.
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Jan 24, 2016 11:04
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1990s.rmvb
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Feb 24, 2016 09:28
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Tripod mount
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Mar 27, 2016 11:47
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Khablam posted:Looks more like a cannon to me take it through the airport in assembled form
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Mar 28, 2016 12:00
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Seamonster posted:I love my 24-105. You're not going to find a better general purpose zoom for EF mount @ $500. Sure the 24-70 f4 is marginally better but don't forget the extra cost and the loss of "portrait" range focal length. The STM 24-105 is yucky variable aperture.  It's a great walkaround lens for anything except macro. Maybe on a 5DSR you wouldn't use it but you wouldn't use a 5DSR as a walkaround camera anyway
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May 16, 2016 13:38
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Ken Rockwell is the Bill Maher of photography.
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Jul 19, 2016 13:52
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I thought that's IS off vs IS on.
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Jul 25, 2016 08:31
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dorkasaurus_rex posted:No CFast = no faster video recording Yeah. But 120fps isn't too bad so I'll try to convince my lab to order a crate of 5D4s that will sit on microscopes and stuff till the shutters break.
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Aug 15, 2016 08:46
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Was really hoping for some 240FPS options
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Bubbacub posted:reordered WB/AF/ISO buttons to match the 5d4 that was a stupid thing canon did, even during the 5d2 - 5d3 step
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Aug 31, 2016 10:50
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Thin Privilege posted:The nikon-> canon lens adapters all have lovely reviews (except ones that are like $200). The main thing they complain about is that they're impossible to remove and/or get stuck to the camera. Some people said they bought an adapter for every lens, but the ones with the better reviews are still $60 and I have 3 Nikon lenses so that's super expensive to buy 3 adapters for $60. The only way I'd ever use an adapter to mount a lens to a camera for work (i.e. not for your own free time art photography on ye olde manual rangefinder or lomo from ebay) is if 1) the lens was manual, super specialised, with no new equivalent available from the camera manufacturer, and super necessary for a specific use and 2) everything gets set up once and then you never touch it again, so really nothing matters beyond having a focus and aperture ring that you may or may not hotglue in place after setting things up. This restricts the use to static photography in a specific studio setup, and really even there the only sensible use case that wouldn't be much better served by a modern lens of the same manufacturer is some sort of rarely-used macro/reproduction setup (in this case, a good reproduction tripod/stand will be the most expensive part anyway). suck my woke dick fucked around with this message at 19:27 on Mar 12, 2017 |
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Mar 12, 2017 19:16
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Agreed with the above suggestions. If you go Canon, 24-70 and 70-200 (plus a good 50) are solid choices, both in that they are literally solid and unlikely to fail immediately when you inevitably bump into something camera-first and in covering a useful focal length range that's good for any general application. You want more (or newest-model) lenses if you want nice-to-have features like IS or for more specialised applications.
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Mar 21, 2017 12:05
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Soulex posted:I have a question hopefully you all can answer. Do you have good lenses?
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Apr 25, 2017 23:21
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InFlames235 posted:My 10-18mm that I bought for Italy just arrived today and I did some test photos. I'm FLOORED! I've never had a wide angle before and it's just crazy how much you can fit into the picture when it's literally right in front of you. I think I'll be getting more and better wide angles moving forward. This is rad. Awesome! Going even wider than the 10-18 means fisheye or super expensive full frame lenses though.
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May 2, 2017 15:58
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The issue is the CF card reader pins in the 50D are most likely soldered directly to the mainboard, unlike in something like a 5D or 1D with a longer service life where they're attached via an easily-replaced cheap daughter board or flex cable. To replace them on the 50D you'd have to desolder the whole lot and resolder a new pin block. As far as I know Canon (and most/all other major camera manufacturers) will just flat-out refuse to do any actual electronics repairs that involve replacing components on a board and instead quote you a replacement of the whole board, even when the repairs would be reasonable for a basic electronics workshop or moderately overequipped hobbyist to do.
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Jun 11, 2017 10:05
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Seamonster posted:So both Sigma and Tamron have new stabilized 24-70 2.8s coming out... Will they be ~weather sealed~ and able to survive a drop
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Jun 23, 2017 08:54
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dakana posted:on the 6d1 you can set AF selection to the multidirectional pad inside the wheel Still sucks if you use the 6D as a second body and a 5D/1D as a main. Which is what I would want to do, but Canon wants me to buy more 5Ds instead
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Jul 4, 2017 23:08
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timrenzi574 posted:Bill Claff put the read noise at being slightly worse than the original 6D. So the 6D2 is "same old lol Canon DR" when their entire lineup other than the walmart shelf special model Rebel has been updated to more modern sensors. (The 7D2 is still same old Canon, but it's not NEW) I think the idea behind the 6D2 is "let's make a full frame camera that's really poo poo". Do you want a filthy casual camera? Buy a Rebel with the kit lens, or a 77D with the kit lens if you don't want to look like the filthy casual you are. Do you want a Real CameraTM that works for things that move moderately fast and don't require tooooo much Bokeh/low light performance? Buy the 80D and the kit lens and the 10-18 and 55-250 (or 70-300 II), or if you're poor get the 77D with the same lenses. Do you want a Real CameraTM for things that move really loving fast? Get the 7D2 (or soon 7D3) and your choice of L telephoto. Do you want a Real CameraTM for things that move really loving fast which is also good for low light and Bokeh and poo poo? Get the 5D4 and a $15k pile of L glass. Do you want a Real CameraTM for things that move really loving fast which is also good for low light and Bokeh and poo poo, and your boss will pay for it? Get the 1DX2 and a $20k pile of L glass. Are you a sperg with 2k in play money and no specific use case for full frame beyond dickwaving? Get the 6D2 and the plastic fantastic 24-105 kit lens you dumb shitler, which is the 6D which is the 5D2 with the cheapest available current substitutes (may be better or worse) for any old 5D2 parts we can't source anymore  . Also we added bluetooth and wifi I guess  Do you want a Real CameraTM for things that don't move but which is good for low light and Bokeh and poo poo? Go buy a Sony 
suck my woke dick fucked around with this message at 21:15 on Jul 27, 2017 |
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Jul 27, 2017 21:11
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