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We still need to hit up those yards in East Brookfield and Southbridge to see if they have any. It's the goofy 6xhuge pattern and 14" diameter, right? I read through half of the service manual you have while taking a break from welding on Ace's truck one day but can't remember how the backing plates were set up. I know there were like 9 different designs and none of them have compatible parts and it made my head spin.
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Jan 8, 2014 18:31
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| # ¿ May 2, 2024 07:48 |
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Fart Pipe posted:The flatty is going into my friends 48 F1. It's still in there but we have to finish the dump truck first so you haven't missed anything yet. There are a million F1s, F2s, F4s, Fwhatevers in that yard too.
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Jan 8, 2014 18:39
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Sandbagger SA posted:What would you say the likelihood is those drums are full of asbestos? You have a better chance of winning the powerball than those drums do of NOT being asbestos. The only way I'd use a shopvac for old brake dust is with a brand new HEPA filter... honestly the best route to go with doing those brakes would be to park it on jackstands, place an oil drain pan lined with 6 mil poly under each brake assembly, then use brakleen to flush all the dust, grime, grease, and everything else off into the poly. Then seal it up and double bag it before the brakleen puddle dries up. That being said, basically every old shop is going to be full of asbestos dust, lead paint dust, chromate based corrosion prevention coatings, and basically every other nasty carcinogen under the sun. To say nothing of the mass quantities of carcinogens in gasoline 
kastein fucked around with this message at 18:43 on Jan 9, 2014 |
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Jan 9, 2014 18:38
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Just to complete the circle, IH used AMC 232/258 cube inline 6s and 401 cube v8s at some points. With chrysler auto trannies, because chrysler had already made their trans fit those engines for AMC.
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Jan 12, 2014 15:02
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Yeah those are huge.
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Feb 10, 2014 02:50
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Guessing it is hooked to an EGT pyrometer.
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Mar 3, 2014 13:05
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Bucephalus posted:You're controlling the Jews that control the banks that hold all his student loans...? You forgot the grey lizard men.
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Mar 19, 2014 16:27
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Yeah, even assuming perfect zero-ohm bolted and crimped connections my numbers were coming up with around 100 watts dissipated in the positive feed cable alone. Just plain too much for 4ga.
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Apr 2, 2014 17:29
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Should be. Either way, that's wayyyy too much! I'd stick with 0 gauge or better personally, and make absolutely sure the connections are clean and tight. One crummy bolted connection or battery lug can have more resistance in it than in the cables combined... oh, and hot wires and connections don't conduct as well as cold ones, so when the wires start heating up and the motor starts slowing down (and drawing, or trying to draw, even more current) things snowball pretty quickly.
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Apr 2, 2014 17:45
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For cable sizing I honestly usually go with gut instinct and experience first, then run the numbers if cost/importance/weight dictate it. That usually means I spec a size or two over what's required, my whole house is done with 12ga even though some circuits are 15 amp and I typically use 12ga and 10ga for automotive lighting. Chrysler headlight wiring harnesses scarred me. I've seen some poo poo, man.  (or haven't seen a goddamn thing, at least while driving them at night.)
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Apr 2, 2014 19:28
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Since you suspect it is the condensor, what capacitance is it? It is just a capacitor with a fairly high temp rating and medium voltage rating, if you don't have one on hand in your parts pile I will bring one down tomorrow night probably. I would SWAG that it is a 0.47uF or so, most condensers I have seen are around that.
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Apr 3, 2014 14:40
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I think the motor is just half hosed at this point from being overheated. gently caress 6 volt forever.
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Apr 5, 2014 22:39
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VICTORY!!! Glad it runs that nicely, it has to be that stupid loving starter and solenoid that have been pissing you off for weeks anyways.
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Apr 10, 2014 02:11
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I might have a tow dolly with PAHTS FALLIN OFF IT (and a dana 60 on top) with me but I'm hoping to drop by.
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Apr 30, 2014 20:08
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Spark plug clearance, exhaust valve location (two valve, right? I forget, the pattern of valves down each head is probably EIIEEIIE which makes the intake manifold closer to square, taking a smaller casting) is what I'd bet on. At least they aren't siamesed... siamesed ports are The Dumbest Thing (tm).
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Aug 20, 2014 18:02
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IOwnCalculus posted:It is EIIEEIIE like you said, but oddly enough it doesn't really shrink the intake manifold at all. It still has to cover the entire valley, and the mating surface still runs the full length of the head. Maybe made it easier to cast? It also makes the left and right sides identical. And this is where it becomes painfully obvious that I am speaking as an engineer here, not as someone with any actual SBC experience 
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Aug 21, 2014 13:16
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That transmission should be incredibly easy to rebuild. May need to press the bearing off if it is like the aisins I am used to. Remember the freezer+oven/heatgun trick for putting the new one on, and don't overheat the bearing or you risk detempering it.
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Aug 24, 2014 19:41
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Yeah holy poo poo that bearing is done. Buy a new bearing somewhere for cheap and we can use redneck tricks to install it later while drunk, then you can toss it on ebay for too much 
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Aug 24, 2014 23:17
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JOIN OR DIE (I kid, but you should come)
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Aug 25, 2014 01:50
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What size would you want it drilled and tapped to and is there working space in front of it with the radiator/other poo poo out? Because I own drat near every SAE tap under the sun. You could also JB weld it, just brakleen the inside of the HB and the outside of the crank off for an inch or two, slide em together, and fill the gap with a syringe. If the HB wears out, torch it till the JB weld burns/melts and slide it back off again. Not that I'm trying to convince you not to get a gen3 motor... when are we going LM7/L33/L18/LQ4/LQ9 hunting? 
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Sep 2, 2014 20:44
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Sounds about right. 7/16-14 is UNC and -20 is UNF; I think I have that size... I KNOW I have 1/2-20.
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Sep 2, 2014 22:28
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If you can find a measurement, even approximate, for how far back the S10 and Camaro shifter assemblies are from either the front or rear face of the bellhousing, you can just lie under your car with a tape measure, measure back, find some sort of a landmark on the floorboard (I like using the bottoms of various mounting bolts and screws since they're easier to find on both sides) and then find that same bolt/screw inside the car and decide which shifter setup you want.
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Sep 9, 2014 21:02
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I'm just gonna hijack his thread regardless to say that he is awesome and helped out a ton with tuning the carb on my sister's 1980 datsun 720 last night. Thanks dude! Key quotes: "what the gently caress, what pulls this stupid choke linkage down? There has to be something that does" (both of us, like a dozen times) "This goofy ratchety cam choocher does something..." (carbs 101) "Holy poo poo I am an idiot, the choke plate is offcenter on the shaft and the intake suction holds it open" (me, inebriated, half past midnight) "What the gently caress, this carb is weird... what is that... ohhh it's a progressive two barrel, I see" (Fart Pipe, also known as The Carb Whisperer)
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Sep 13, 2014 21:48
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Is that before or after it welds the rod bearings to the crank?
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Sep 15, 2014 18:49
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I bet an Eaton M90 and the EFI system off a jeep 4.0L instead of the carb would solve that problem right quick.  Awesome that you got it running, I gotta drop by for Friday night again sometime. Been way too long. Still need brake drums for it?
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Nov 7, 2014 21:46
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You should let the elephant out of the bed, he doesn't seem to like it much when you stop and your 0- Seriously though, awesome that you got it plated and everything and can drive the thing more than up and down the driveway! Wish I could say the same about mine.
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Nov 12, 2014 23:20
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What diameter do you want and what is your lug pattern? I remember it's six-by-huge but I can't remember the rest. If you want to put some sick dubs on that thing and it's the same pattern as an M715 or M35A2 I know where you can get a billion of those wheels for pretty cheap 
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Nov 18, 2014 00:31
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Fart Pipe posted:These are only just over 400 bucks for the 4 Just over 400 for 4 you say? https://www.treadwright.com/individual-product/133/CRAWLER-235-75R15.00-P I have a set of 4 in garbage condition that I need to get back from NY along with the turd they are attached to... want to try test fitting them sometime after that? 29.1" tall.
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Jan 14, 2015 05:20
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Please don't weld to grade 8, it's usually zinc dichromate plated, the zinc makes you feel like poo poo and the chromate gives you cancer and murders your liver/kidneys 
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Mar 19, 2015 16:19
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Fart Pipe posted:Im getting a free LS6.0 whatever donor van soon for the 86 GMC. This winter when I have time to work on stuff is gonna be awesome. yesssssss Depending on what the rearend is, I might be interested in buying it off you for my blue MJ.
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Aug 31, 2015 21:20
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That'd be awesome! As for the tranny won't this engine bolt right up to your mantrans? I was pretty sure it would.
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Aug 31, 2015 22:20
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I bet you pop the heads off and see factory crosshatching and the rings and rod/main bearings are all fine. (And then slam new gaskets and a cam in it and in she goes!)
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Sep 1, 2015 04:31
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I bet your alternator field brushes are worn 99.9% out and occasionally make contact. The spare alt ACE pulled is riding around with me so if you ever need it let me know and I can bring it down.
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Oct 13, 2015 14:17
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Yeah, alternators can be a real bastard to pull apart, especially once they're packed full of rust between the stator core and the case halves. Never had an issue getting a pulley off though.
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Oct 14, 2015 15:21
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Fart Pipe posted:Got both of the BABs out today without damaging them Witchcraft  Dismembering mine has been postponed till next weekend, let me know what else you can think of that you want off it.
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Aug 1, 2016 13:40
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The paint I agree, but you guys haven't seen the rockers and probably the cab floors. They definitely need work* and at that point you've already got the bottom half looking new but in primer, so you've gone from awesome patina to low-rent and without a very expensive airbrush job making it look patina'd again, the only real solution that looks good is a new paintjob. * fortunately there's at least 1-3 vendors selling repro panels for every part of those trucks at every auto swap meet in the country. Plus Raybuck and LMC.
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Aug 9, 2016 15:35
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Fart Pipe posted:Valt! has one that is very similar but yeah I've been driving it for 6 years since I pulled it out of the greenhouse where it had resided since the Reagan era. I could see taking super detailed photos of just the areas to be repaired and then having vinyl or airbrushing done to make it look like that again (leaving the rest alone), but yeah, out and out faked patina is bullshit.
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Aug 9, 2016 19:10
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I would use antiseize instead of grease. Also, my condolences 
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Aug 14, 2016 02:17
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Let me know what you want off my 00 for the FXT and/or your red one... still slowly pillaging it for parts. Depending on what else I need to get done this weekend, it might get stripped down.
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Sep 1, 2016 03:15
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| # ¿ May 2, 2024 07:48 |
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How many hood latch parts from my 00 will fit it? They are yours if you want them Hell so is the hood if you want it. Wrong color and I dunno if it will fit though
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Sep 3, 2016 02:57
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