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Astonishing Wang posted:This is an awesome realization - I love the idea of still having a low gear, as I hear that a 2wd dually can get stuck on wet grass Oh god drat that's a crewcab 4x4.
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Feb 13, 2015 19:05
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I went out and worked on the truck today - stripped the motor most of the way down, should be able to pull it next time. I also dropped the driveshaft. Identified the long block as a 220 silver diamond. Still not sure what the rear axle is, but its roughly 82" from outside wheel face to outside wheel face, and 55" from backing plate to backing plate. People are trying to talk me into an LSx, apparently there are harnesses that make it a pretty easy job, but they're $550. I need to research what vehicles come with the LQ4 truck motor and the 4L8E, but I fear they may be pretty far out of my meager budget. I'll post photos on Monday!
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Apr 12, 2015 02:25
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Don't forget that most Chevy truck HD models came with a solid front beam as well.
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Apr 12, 2015 05:12
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djdanno13 posted:Don't forget that most Chevy truck HD models came with a solid front beam as well. Thank you - I'll add that to the list!  Old-timey oil filter housing with sock filter - it's pretty gnarly inside but I'm sure would clean up well if forums user Fart Pipe is interested. I stuck a screwdriver through the metal wire for leverage and the filter slid right out. I can't imagine the terrible mess these make when you're changing the oil.  I think there's a steering box in there somewhere   This (I think) is where the left, center, and right gas tanks all come together. I don't anticipate being able to re-use anything from the fueling system, but I don't think it'll be too tricky to re-create.  Here's how it sits now, ready for the engine and trans to come out!    Here's where the drive shaft meets the transmission - those are allen bolts holding the u-joint and I had to do all 4 with a little 'L' allen key  Poor me. It's a big-rear end drive shaft!  Front Axle:   Rear axle - there's a layer of sludge about an inch thick covering the whole center section. Axle is about 55" wide from the backing plates in, and about 82" from the outside wheel faces.    The parts pile is growing - Pulled the starter, oil filter housing, distributor, some fuel stuff that I don't understand, etc.   I'm having so much fun
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Apr 13, 2015 16:41
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Looking forward to following along with your project, it sounds like you and your girlfriend are having a lot of fun, and I think it's cool you can work on something like this together.
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Apr 18, 2015 22:07
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This is super cool. Character is an overused word for vehicles but this camper has it.
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Apr 19, 2015 01:35
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I'm talking to the guy selling this: http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv/cto/4983667749.html It looks like everything I want aside from the front axle.  Selling a 73 Ford F350 - 137" wheel base factory cab & chassis, outfitted when new with a SERVIS utility bed. 360 V8 rebuilt by previous owners at some point approx 35k miles. C6 3 speed automatic shifts flawlessly behind it. Overall truck is in good condition and ready to work today. Reliable and dependable as I have driven it as far as Bakersfield and down to Temecula and Aguanga area. All gauges work. Oil psi and water temp gauges are aftermarket new. Starter is newer. Has a brand new dual battery charging isolator and dual batteries. Newer Kenwood stereo with USB and aux input and brand new kicker speakers installed recently. Recent engine oil and filter change. No oil leaks. No mechanical issues other than runs rough when cold, once warm runs flawlessly. (Could use a new electric choke mechanism). All 6 tires are in good condition with approx 80% tread left. Clean CA title in hand. Registered thru end of August 2015. $2200 or best offer. WHICH WAY MADNESS posted:Looking forward to following along with your project, it sounds like you and your girlfriend are having a lot of fun, and I think it's cool you can work on something like this together. We're having a lot of fun working on it so far. She tends to get a little carried away with small details sometimes, so she already knows what kind of drawer-pulls she wants but not what color the whole thing will be. DrakeriderCa posted:This is super cool. Character is an overused word for vehicles but this camper has it. Thanks! I can't wait to cruise in this thing! Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 20:03 on Apr 20, 2015 |
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Apr 20, 2015 18:09
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Has anybody had much experience with 70's ford trucks? I'm going to look at this 1973 f350 on Friday and was hoping for some advice on what all to look at. It's got the FE 360 motor, which from what I've read should have about 200 hp and 320 torque. The original motor was 100 hp and 170 torque, so it should be a definite improvement in the haulin-rear end dept. The DRW axle is the perfect width, at around 82" from outside of wheels. It's probably a Dana 60, which should be a good axle with plenty of parts available. So it's got the simple mechanics that I want and plenty of power(?), and all I would need in theory to finish the project would be a straight front axle (or a conversion of my hubs?). This truck looks to be in pretty good shape, but what should I look at when I go to check? A road test will tell me if brakes work, if it overheats, shifts well, rides nice, etc. Check the dip stick for lovely oil? Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 17:37 on Apr 21, 2015 |
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Apr 21, 2015 16:54
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Astonishing Wang posted:Has anybody had much experience with 70's ford trucks? I'm going to look at this 1973 f350 on Friday and was hoping for some advice on what all to look at. Real simple and easy to work on. The fuse box has 6 or 7 fuses in it if I recall. They are great trucks, but I don't know anything about the automatics. As far as brakes, even when they're working they barely work. It's drum all around.
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Apr 21, 2015 18:26
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Motronic posted:As far as brakes, even when they're working they barely work. It's drum all around. Really? Friend of mine had a '71 F250, and I could have sworn it at least had discs in the front. Wouldn't the 350 have better brakes on account of having a heavier load capacity? Or at least, not worse?
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Apr 21, 2015 23:12
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Motronic posted:Real simple and easy to work on. The fuse box has 6 or 7 fuses in it if I recall. Raluek posted:Really? Friend of mine had a '71 F250, and I could have sworn it at least had discs in the front. Wouldn't the 350 have better brakes on account of having a heavier load capacity? Or at least, not worse? Just from looking on Rock Auto and google it looks like the front is disk brakes. It shouldn't matter anyway since I'll be changing the front axle, unless this one would be an easy swap. I assumed a 1973 would be plain old straight axle in front, but the guy that owns the truck said it's coil springs in front and some weird axle setup. e: maybe radius arms with coils? Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 23:24 on Apr 21, 2015 |
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Apr 21, 2015 23:21
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Astonishing Wang posted:Just from looking on Rock Auto and google it looks like the front is disk brakes. It shouldn't matter anyway since I'll be changing the front axle, unless this one would be an easy swap. I assumed a 1973 would be plain old straight axle in front, but the guy that owns the truck said it's coil springs in front and some weird axle setup. I think those are the twin I-beam models. IIRC, they did that from '63-'7x but I don't remember exactly. Unless it's 4WD? E: '65-'80 on all 2WD trucks, and up to '02 on some models! Geez.
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Apr 21, 2015 23:23
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Raluek posted:Really? Friend of mine had a '71 F250, and I could have sworn it at least had discs in the front. Wouldn't the 350 have better brakes on account of having a heavier load capacity? Or at least, not worse? Drum brakes of the time as compared to disc of the time weren't "worse" for heavy duty applications. I think they went to disc fronts in like '72 on the F100s and there were disc front options on (2 wheel drive only maybe?) 250s/350s around then, but generally you wanted drums on heavier stuff. There have been plenty of conversion kits and recipes over the years to swap these with modern discs that will kick the poo poo out of the 70s garbage brakes regardless of style.
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Apr 21, 2015 23:24
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Right hand threaded lug nuts on the drivers side! My brother has a 73 f350 flatbed, i6 300. We found that out the first time he got a flat.
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Apr 22, 2015 01:27
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The ad stated it has a C6 transmission, which is a pretty drat tough transmission as long as it gets the fluid changed every decade or so. The fluid in mine looked like roofing tar when I changed it the first time, and it still lasted a few more years (eventually I'd have to take my foot off the gas for the 2 -> 3 shift, and reverse went out, but it was obvious it'd been abused and never maintained before I got it). Just make sure you use Type F fluid in it and nothing else. Type F is getting to be kind of hard to find, you won't find it in, say, a gas station.
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Apr 22, 2015 03:34
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Ahhhhhh I'm going to skip this one, I want to hold out a little longer and find something that's a better overall candidate. Maybe a 4x4, I dunno. Thanks for your input folks.
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Apr 22, 2015 16:38
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Here's a little Monday rust for you folks - I spent a while yesterday grinding a few spots on the hood and fenders. Here's some of the worst rust, above and behind the cab. Shouldn't be too hard to clean up I hope    I also dropped the exhaust and did a scouting run at the junk yard. It was my first time to the yard in over 15 years and it was awesome. I was mainly looking for front axles, and I only saw two that might work. One was I think a 10-bolt and the other was a d44. Not sure how much weight those can handle and I'm fairly certain I'll want more beef, but I'll have to do some research. Both examples were pretty crusty and wouldn't be good enough IMO for this vehicle. It looks like almost any way I do it I'm going to have to find one axle independently of the donor vehicle, unless I can find a 4x4 of just the right vintage. There are a ton more junk yards in the county, and at least one of them specializes in 1-ton and under trucks, so I'm holding out hope  E: Checking out a 1990 Suburban 2500 tonight - it's got the 454 and heavy duty axles. http://sandiego.craigslist.org/esd/cto/4992344526.html Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 18:27 on Apr 29, 2015 |
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Apr 27, 2015 23:54
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Astonishing Wang posted:E: Checking out a 1990 Suburban 2500 tonight - it's got the 454 and heavy duty axles. So this thing was pretty ok. The motor seemed to be in pretty good shape. The truck had been sitting for 5 years but they got it running a while back to sell. Original owner died and a neighbor (who is slightly tweaky) is selling it for the widow. Brakes were pretty squishy but should just need a going over. It blew power steering fluid all over the driver side of the engine bay on my test drive, but It looked like it came from the cap on the reservoir. The hood also flew open on the test drive, but that's because the dude didn't latch it. Luckily there are arms that keep the hood out of the windshield. They won't go under $2000 and I want to spend about $1500. I really like the potential but I feel like $2000 is just too much. It's not smogged, but it IS non-opped with DMV. If they come back to me and are okay with taking the low offer I can transfer it to myself keeping it non-op, and get a sort of day-use permit for driving it to where the truck is. Smog doesn't matter in my situation since it's going into a non-opped 1954 truck, but I'd like to be able to tool around in whatever I buy for a while to make sure it's all sturdy and reliable before doing the swap. I'm going to keep looking at the options on craigslist, if I can find something with a solid front axle I'll be ahead of the current curve (this one was IFS). Maybe I'll get a call about the 'burb once they get tired of posting it. e: I may be leaning more towards something like an LS motor, seems like they make good enough power in a smaller, slightly more fuel efficient package. Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 17:40 on May 1, 2015 |
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May 1, 2015 16:47
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I'm having a bit of a dilemma valuing a piece of poo poo donor. I went and looked at this 1977 k20 Suburban last night. It's rough and needs a decent amount of work but I feel like there's a lot of value here. http://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/cto/5023187928.html  It's got a 350 high emission Motor. The smog stuff is hosed - Dude says the pump is good but it needs a couple of valves and stuff to pass. Also would need new exhaust probably. The master cylinder is spraying all over the engine bay, and there were definite signs of oil on the manifolds but he told me that was from the mechanic setting timing. It sure didn't feel like a mechanic had set ANYTHING when I test drove it.   Fuckin chrome oil pan and timing cover, you heard me  The bottom of the motor looks pretty clean, not a lot of signs of leaks but I'm sure they're there. I'm pretty sure it's a 10-bolt front and 14-bolt rear   Door tag  Things it would need and rough prices: Master cylinder was spraying all over - $40 + fluid and any lines needed Power steering is most likely shot, hard to steer when stopped. Maybe just needs fluid but probably needs a new box? - $80-150ish Tires are poo poo, but they hold air - $500ish for 4 new tires once it's roadworthy. I think the wheels are 16.5", so it might make sense to switch wheels so I can get highway tires. Maybe all-terrains would be okay too, since this thing is 4x4. Lots of hosed smog parts (reg paid but hasn't been smogged - I also don't need it smogged, but it would be nice to be able to tool around in it while fixing it up and verifying roadworthiness.) Acceleration is very lovely and idle is rough - should just need a tuneup and carb rebuild? exhaust is rotted out - $60 for two new mufflers, not sure on piping but I wouldn't do that until it was moved over About 63000 on the odometer, but that probably doesn't mean anything. Dude posted it at $1,300 but said he'd take $1,000. I think I might be able to go even lower if he's telling me true stories about how he has to get out of town ASAP. What do you think goons? I have a good feeling overall about it, but not sure if I'm just excited that this is the first vehicle I've looked at with two solid axles. I might offer $800 and see what happens, as it can't be smogged as it is so that'll probably keep people away. Getting it cheap means I'd have money for headers and an intake, plus whatever else it might need. So long as the whole engine isn't a write-off I feel like it'd be hard to go wrong with this 'burban. Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 18:09 on May 14, 2015 |
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May 14, 2015 18:00
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"Mechanic setting timing" and "doesn't feel like mechanic set anything" sounds more like it needs some internal work or carb work. Though only a leakdown test can really confirm that. "Couple of valves to pass" sounds more like it needs head work. Though an RV cam will make it idle a little rougher than the stock cam. If it actually has an RV cam, it should give gobs of torque at low RPMs, and have a slightly lumpy idle. If you don't mind a project (on top of your project), go for it, just expect to spend a bit getting everything up to par. You can part out the rest of it and make decent chunk of your money back. Also, I'm pretty sure those were never intended to be full time 4x4 (the craigslist posting claims full time 4x4). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 02:16 on May 15, 2015 |
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May 15, 2015 02:10
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I wouldn't pay more than 500 for that in that condition... Sure looks like a 14 bolt to me, I think that may be a 44 front but not entirely sure, kinda blurry. The diff cover shape will tell you for sure.
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May 15, 2015 04:11
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I don't know enough about Danas to confirm/deny the 44, but that's not a 10 bolt.
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May 15, 2015 04:52
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The 10 bolt front and 44 front used in GM trucks had the same knuckles and outers, and those are most definitely 44/10 bolt knuckles I see. The cover *looks* like a 44, GM only used 44s, 10 bolts, and 60 fronts and those certainly are not 60 knuckles so I'd put my money on a front 44. Should be a low pinion, but that won't make much of a difference in your case. The rear axle's worth like 100 or so, the front is worth anywhere from 100 to 400 depending on area and availability of sucker buyers, I'm assuming the drivetrain needs a rebuild based on the description so call it 200 for front diff and 200 for drivetrain as cores. Not sure I'd buy it... I would hold out for something that's been vandalized or bodywork wrecked. Buying a drivetrain donor with a beat drivetrain seems counterproductive.
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May 15, 2015 04:58
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Yeah, I was looking at the pumpkin. I was balls deep in 10 bolt research a couple months back and that's not a 10 bolt cover. I don't know dick about steering knuckles on those and I won't pretend that I do. Based on your expertise and my refusal to shut up and go away, I'd go with D44.
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May 15, 2015 14:23
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Awesome project, and the surroundings look local to me. I also say no loving way on that suburban, unless it was like $400 and you just used the axles, while getting another vehicle for a motor.
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May 15, 2015 15:23
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some texas redneck posted:"Mechanic setting timing" and "doesn't feel like mechanic set anything" sounds more like it needs some internal work or carb work. Though only a leakdown test can really confirm that. The 'couple of valves' thing was just that - there are two valves on some smog hoses that are just rusted into bits. Thanks for your advice everybody. I am going to follow it and skip this one. We're leaving on a road trip tomorrow so it would've been pretty hectic getting it today anyway. I really haven't even scratched the surface of options as I've only gone to one junk yard so far. iwentdoodie posted:Awesome project, and the surroundings look local to me. Where are you located? I'm in Pacific Beach and the truck is in Lakeside. If any goons are local and want to help out I'd sure love a second set of eyes on the next thing I look at!
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May 15, 2015 17:16
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I'm out in Murrieta. But if you need anything or just want a second set of eyes/hands let me know.
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May 15, 2015 21:04
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Yeah, I'd pass on that Suburban too. Good stuff out there if you look. This probably wouldn't help you much, but this took me about 30 seconds on my local CL just now: http://longisland.craigslist.org/zip/5027003554.html
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May 16, 2015 17:33
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I'm checking out a 99 c3500 tonight. A tree fell on the headache rack and apparently did enough damage to total it, and there are $$$ back fees at the DMV. It's a salvage title, but dude says it fires right up and runs good. This would get me everything except the front axle, and it would all be the baddest-rear end version of whatever it is   http://sandiego.craigslist.org/esd/cto/5064893573.html
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Jun 10, 2015 17:18
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I put a deposit down on the Chevy 3500. It started right up and drove nice. Now I'm freaking out because it's real. I have to start putting parts IN the truck, aka the hard part   
Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 05:30 on Jun 11, 2015 |
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Jun 11, 2015 05:25
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This is going to be bad rear end. Probably more than I would have paid for a donor, but I can't wait to see how it comes out. Let me know if you need help making sense of the wiring diagrams!
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Jun 11, 2015 05:28
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I'm glad to have you on board Kastein! $1600 seemed reasonable for the apparent condition, I'm just hoping that I don't come across anything tragic when I actually get into it. It's semi low mileage, tires are decent. It just seems hard to beat but I'm also in San Diego where things being retarded expensive may be more likely than other places.
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Jun 11, 2015 05:34
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Just guessing, but probably the hardest part of the wiring will be figuring out a cluster and warning lights - the most complicated part on the donor is the fuel injection, and it's relatively simple GM multiport injection. Normally a 99 would run the cluster from the ECU, but the heavy duty pickups lagged way behind the 1/2 tons in technology, and the big blocks even moreso. I'd have to see a schematic to figure it out for sure, but I'm betting they kept the 3500 basic enough at the time that most of those gauges are just run off of the actual sensors on the engine. Which (maybe) means you can just use existing sensor locations for new gauges without worrying about pissing off the ECU. 120k? That thing's a baby, treat it right and it'll run to 300k+ without anything more than regular maintenance. The 454 is incredibly overbuilt even for a big block, and it should have a 4L80-E, which is generally a tank of a transmission as long as you keep it cool and stay up on maintenance (shift kit would be a good idea though). Also what Ken said, can't wait to see how it winds up. $1600 seems like a very fair price for it, IMO - I mean, yeah, it is salvage, but you don't plan to put it back on the road, and you can part out anything you don't use to offset the cost, then scrap the rest. If it was easily registrable and didn't have back taxes owed, that would be ~$3000 here with 2-3x the miles; add another $500-1000 if the a/c works (salvage or not). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 05:48 on Jun 11, 2015 |
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Jun 11, 2015 05:45
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I checked and yeah, it is old enough to be non networked. The white wire going to the ignition coil's connector is the feed to the tach, it should be treated like any other negative coil trigger tach wire would, almost any aftermarket or older factory tach will work natively with it. Only thing is, going from an I6 to a V8, it is going to read 33% high since you have 33% more cylinders. I can't even remember if it HAS a tach, though. The only other gauge that is going to give you grief is the speedo. I assume it is mechanical cable driven... the speedo in the donor is probably a normal chevy 40k pulse/mile unit, which is great but won't work at all with your speedo. And the ECU will be mad if it doesn't get a vss signal so you can't just rip it out and put a mechanical drive takeoff in. That being said. There is probably an aftermarket solution to this problem since people put chevy stuff in everything. Oil pressure and engine temp, even if the chevy ecu outputs or sensors aren't compatible, you can just add an OEM (for the truck) sender elsewhere and wire that to the gauges, done.
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Jun 11, 2015 08:41
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Haha yea Im sure the IH doesnt have a tach, Id be very surprised. They do make adapters that read the VSS signal and have an electric motor to turn the mechanical speedo cable but I cant remember the name of the company. It may be Dakota digital but I dont have the time too look it up right now. Ill post later if I find it.
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Jun 11, 2015 12:09
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Hell yeah, 454. Depending on the condition of the rest of the truck, you might be able to recoup some of that 1600 by selling off parts. Add in scrapping the leftovers and that truck might end up being a pretty good deal in the end. Don't forget to pick up some 454SS decals for the side of the camper.
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Jun 11, 2015 15:10
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some texas redneck posted:Just guessing, but probably the hardest part of the wiring will be figuring out a cluster and warning lights - the most complicated part on the donor is the fuel injection, and it's relatively simple GM multiport injection. Normally a 99 would run the cluster from the ECU, but the heavy duty pickups lagged way behind the 1/2 tons in technology, and the big blocks even moreso. I'd have to see a schematic to figure it out for sure, but I'm betting they kept the 3500 basic enough at the time that most of those gauges are just run off of the actual sensors on the engine. Which (maybe) means you can just use existing sensor locations for new gauges without worrying about pissing off the ECU. kastein posted:I checked and yeah, it is old enough to be non networked. The white wire going to the ignition coil's connector is the feed to the tach, it should be treated like any other negative coil trigger tach wire would, almost any aftermarket or older factory tach will work natively with it. Only thing is, going from an I6 to a V8, it is going to read 33% high since you have 33% more cylinders. I can't even remember if it HAS a tach, though. Fart Pipe posted:Haha yea Im sure the IH doesnt have a tach, Id be very surprised. They do make adapters that read the VSS signal and have an electric motor to turn the mechanical speedo cable but I cant remember the name of the company. It may be Dakota digital but I dont have the time too look it up right now. Ill post later if I find it. There's no Tach on the international. It has this thing:  I'm assuming that each of these 4 gauges has separate connections in the back. I'd love to keep this dash as original as possible but I don't know how realistic that is. The steering column and everything in the 3500 are pretty 90's. I'll have to see how it all works. Boaz MacPhereson posted:Hell yeah, 454. Depending on the condition of the rest of the truck, you might be able to recoup some of that 1600 by selling off parts. Add in scrapping the leftovers and that truck might end up being a pretty good deal in the end. Heck yeas, there will be a badge and it will be shiny. Here's how I'm looking at the donor: - Running 454 motor and 4l80e trans with computers, all electrical: $1500 value? - 14-bolt full float rear axle - $200 - 6 decent tires - $400? A ton of extra metal to use for various brackets/fish plates/etc. - $priceless? Once I've taken what I need from the truck it won't have a rear axle. Will I be able to have a scrap yard come and haul it away, or will I need to set it on the takeoff axle or something? This is my first redneck yard project so I'm not really sure what to do when you can't just let the husk sit in a field and rust for the rest of it's life. Known issues with the donor that may matter to my build: - Fuel tank 1 doesn't pump gas to fuel tank 2. Dude says it never did for him, so he just filled the primary tank. This should just be the transfer pump I think, which is around $40. I'll address this once I know for sure that I'm using both tanks (which I'm pretty sure I am. Why not...?) - ABS light is on - he said he thinks it's the computer ($400ish). It could probably also be the rear wheel speed sensors, which would be a cheapish fix. Would it be silly to swap in this rear end without hooking up the ABS? I still haven't written down my plans. I think it will help a lot to have it all written down in some kind of step by step fashion. I have a panic attack when I think about the project in it's entirety, but I'm okay when thinking about it piece by piece
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Jun 11, 2015 20:05
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Fuel gauge, just leave wired how it is. Done. Oil gauge - figure out what threads the oil sender has (it may even be mechanical) and find a way to fit that into the 454. You can tee the original oil pressure sender and the one the gauge needs off the same port if the ECU will shut you down if it gets no signal or something like that, I didn't look that far into it. Temp gauge - same story, except teeing it will reduce the accuracy of your readings, so just put it in another spot. I can't find the temp gauge wiring in the wiring database I'm using, it may be computer driven, but you can just jam one meant for the IH into whatever bung has the right threads in your cooling system and forget about it. Volt gauge - hook it up wherever you want to measure your system voltage, done I note you have an ammeter actually... I would recommend finding a way to change that out for a voltmeter, otherwise you end up running your entire alternator output current through the dashboard. It may not even handle the output of the stock alternator on the 454. The speedo could be a problem like Fart Pipe said but I am sure there are solutions. If not, there's probably a way to rig something. e: yeah, you can ignore the ABS, just leave the sender in the diff to keep the oil in. e2: wait, poo poo, had you decided whether you're just swapping the IH cab/body onto this rolling frame, or what? That may be more difficult than putting this drivetrain into the IH, I'm not sure.
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Jun 11, 2015 22:09
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Does someone make well packaged op amp buffers for piggybacking senders for auto ECU's? Seems like there would be a market for em.
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Jun 11, 2015 23:48
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The 3500 fell through for various retarded reasons Sorry for you guys that spent time looking up wiring - I won't post about the next donor until it's more official. This time it was mostly a space issue but there was also mental health concern on my part*. We have the truck at our cousins house, but he is running out of room for more stuff. He rolled his ZJ so that's there next to my truck, and then a couple days ago he picked up a 5.9 ZJ to swap the suspension to. Once he gets rid of the rolled jeep and sells a drop-in camper there will be a little easier space to work with. I'm trying not to inconvenience them so I want to have the IH as naked as possible so that parts can come and go quickly. Saturday I'm going to pull as much from the IH as possible, starting with the engine and trans, then the rear axle. Once that's out I can clean up the engine bay and give the underside a bit of going over. *My bike blew up and the jeep needs some things so I had a bit of a panic attack about buying another vehicle and having nowhere to put it WHILE not trusting my other two vehicles. There's no rush so I'm going to try completing this project while also staying sane.
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Jun 12, 2015 17:54
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