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Congratulations on an excellent shitbox! I've owned, driven and 24hr-lemons-raced several 1989-1992 Mazda 323's (BG, all but one with the 130hp BP engine), and it's been hilarious. Mostly red hatchbacks, one of which is being raced this weekend. Spare parts brought along in the form of a black 323F that I'm also currently driving around in. Silly picture:  Also, apart from the difficulty of fitting a turbo+downpipe+intercooler in front of the engine, most things about turboing it should be pretty much identical to a Miata. Do it.
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Oct 20, 2015 15:45
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| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 15:32 |
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leica posted:Nice, the BG cars in Europe are so much nicer and more plentiful it seems, I'm super jealous. The 1.8L DOHC ones are becoming a bit rare though. There weren't that many to begin with (the cheaper B6 are way more common, as well as some B8 in the 323F), and they're starting to fall apart from rust. There are also a few GTR and GTX ones, but they're pretty expensive and too often pimped to poo poo. I sometimes feel like I should get a low-rust red 323 and keep it beautiful forever... E: Tommychu posted:Pretty sure that's a B8ME powered Ah, right. The thought that it could be anything but a B6 or BP didn't cross my mind. ionn fucked around with this message at 16:28 on Oct 20, 2015 |
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Oct 20, 2015 16:26
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I just want to whine and moan a bit over the fact that my winter beater shitbox 323F just turned up a busted brake line (left rear, at the axle fairly close to the brake hose). On all the old BG's I've ever done brake stuff on, I have never been able to get the brake line fittings out of that "distribution block" that sits on top of the rear axle (because 20+ years worth of Swedish winter gunk and subsequent corrosion), and often not at the hose end either. So I'll probably have to cut the brake line and fiddle with putting fittings on the steel line and it's going to leak and I'll be cold and miserable when doing it and get a facial of brake fluid and oh god I hate steel brake lines and who the gently caress really needs brakes anyway.
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Nov 6, 2015 22:30
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leica posted:If they melt they melt, I'm gonna tighten the gently caress out of 'em anyway. Figured it would be worth the extra insurance if they do hold up but we'll see. They most certainly will either melt or get soft enough from heat that they won't be nylocking anything. Is there any chance whatsoever of getting two nuts on either of the studs? That should lock things up way better, and in that case you want regular flat nuts and not the raised bit of a nyloc. Also something like JB Weld could work as high-temperature loctite, at least since I guess this is the last time those studs are ever expected to be tightened up into anything.
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Nov 13, 2015 07:30
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Just put gunk on the nut from the outside, you can get that off if needed. Have had a car where the exhaust was held together by a pair of hose clamps around both flanges inside the broken studs, and a liberal amount of exhaust repair monkey feces. Held together nicely. But since you have that fancy new exhaust I see why that might not be your first choice.
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Nov 13, 2015 08:42
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It certainly could. I've successfully removed a few rusty otherwise stuck nuts/bolts/studs by heating poo poo up with a small propane torch.
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Nov 15, 2015 08:42
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I still can't get my head around how fresh that thing looks underneath. I've had a couple BG's (1989-92) and everything metal has always been at least very rust-colored. The nuts on that drop link look like you could, like, take them off, which is something that to me just doesn't seem to happen. Stupid climate. leica posted:Think I'm gonna try a bike tube patch or something else to slow it down, other than that gently caress it because the work entailed to replacing the axle isn't worth it. Maybe one of those "split boots"? Only tried it once (on a Volvo axle I had out of the car but was too stupid to figure out how to get the CV joint apart). It did seem alright but fell apart after a couple months, but maybe you're not a klutz.
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Jan 3, 2016 00:27
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8ender posted:I used a split boot kit on an old Maxima I didn't give a poo poo about. After an hour of the worst kind of frustrating loving around it slid on then much to my surprise lasted three years of harsh Canadian driving. I junked the car with the boot intact. Quite the opposite of my experience then. Since I had the axle out and cleaned gluing the boot on was simple enough, but I doubt I would have been able to do it with the axle still on the car. Clearance around the axle varies greatly though, Volvo V40/S40 seems a fair bit "worse" in that respect than the Mazda 323.
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Jan 3, 2016 13:25
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leica posted:[edit] is it possible to get a CEL for the PS pump running out of fluid? On that car, I'd guess no. On modern fancy German things with electronics everywhere I wouldn't be at all surprised to find a fluid level sensor and/or a pressure sensor, but I've never seen anything like that on "simpler" cars, including Toyotas newer than that one.
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Jan 24, 2016 14:24
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I figure this is as good a place as any to come clean. Hello, I am ionn, and I am a destroyer of Mazda BG's. Me and some friends race in the Swedish equivalent of 24hrs of Lemons, called Skrotbilsrejset. One of the quirks with that is that you have to sign the car over to the arranger before the start of the race, and afterwards every single car competing gets scrapped. Even if you broke something stupid during qualifying/practice and can't even start, car is gone. Next race, a new car. That race is held twice a year (around last weekends of March and October) and since 2010 we have participated in 8 races with 9 cars. Of those 9 cars, 5 have been Mazda 323 BG's (1989-1992), exclusively red hatchbacks, and 4 of those have been with the 1.8DOHC engine (130-ish hp, almost exactly the same one found in 1.8 Miatas). We have two more cars lined up (one red hatchback, and one "spare" black 323F) so we'll be ruining a couple more of these beautiful cars, probably as long as we can buy them. These cars are actually getting a bit rare in Sweden. The 1.8 DOHC was not too common to begin with (most are SOHC, usually 1.6 for the hatchback and 1.8 for the 323F), and every race 4-5 or so get destroyed (it's a popular car in that race) which is almost the entire second hand market turnover of these things. I like to think that these are near the end of their life (inevitably being rustbuckets, often requiring a lot of fixing) and that we are sending them off to a worthy end with this race, but we are still causing them a possibly premature early death. I often have had these things as regular-use beater cars before they get raced, and love them. I've had our black 323F as a winter car while the Miata was parked over winter and thoroughly enjoyed it. Are we doing the right thing or is this evil? Random pics of our race cars now crushed into metal cubes:   
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Apr 7, 2016 19:32
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leica posted:My mother in law said the house looks like a used car lot But that is a good thing!
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Apr 16, 2016 13:57
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| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 15:32 |
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Since Leica apparently sold his precious little gem, this thread has not enough Mazda BG in it. Therefore, some pics from the latest bout with our racecar-to-be: Here is where I realize the BP engine has some kind of VICS thing going on, the white-striped vacuum line going from the solenoid in the bottom of the picture to the actuator in the middle. That black canister is also a vacuum reservoir (between manifold and solenoid). I'm guessing that is because when it's supposed to be activated ("Vics just kicked in yo") around 5000rpm, you might be at WOT and not have enough vacuum to run the actuator. Will need additional fuckery to install a different ECU (aiming for a Speeduino), but I'll manage.  Hanging the engine from a too-bah-fore while we remove the subframe, attaching the 2x4 to the car with self-drilling screws and steel bands:  Having removed the subframe, we can then get to the anti-roll-bar and boogerweld some more steel to it hoping to make it stiffer:  While doing this my good stick welder broke (it blew a resistor that is easy enough to replace but I didn't have on hand), had to finish it up with an exceedingly cheap and crappy welder that I bought in a pinch once. Hate using it, but it sort of just about works. Not shown in picture: Installed a new driver-side-door window (it was busted), and found out that both rear springs had the top ~3/4 turns rusted through and broken off. No biggie, it's getting lowered 1-1.5 turns anyway, just need to shave the ends off a bit to make them sit better in the top mount. Both top mounts and strut towers were in excellent condition though. They usually rust to poo poo by gathering generous amounts of Swedish Winter Substance, a special mix of snow, sand and salt that is pretty efficient at destroying car matter. The strut towers are pretty tall, and stuff that is flung off the tires just gathers way up there to do its thing. All four brake calipers are off the car for a makeover (make slide pins slide again, check state of gaskets and bleed screws, and verify that we indeed need new brake hoses). We also have a new pressure plate, but no clutch disc yet and the clutch release bearing was the wrong bloody kind.
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May 18, 2016 16:39
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