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Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

gently caress you so very much for finding a good one of those.

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Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Wait you called the toyota dealership expecting reasonable pricing for a 30 year old car? HAHAHAHAHAHA*

*:source: once worked at a toyota dealership

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Unfortunately toyota is like the one brand that has no aftermarket alternative for new parts here AFAIK, TNZ have that poo poo completely locked down.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

That vacuum thing is just a vacuum reservoir so you can use the clutch without having to wait for the pump to build up vacuum every time you push the pedal.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

CommieGIR posted:

Its also because: Its a diesel and depends upon a vacuum pump versus engine vacuum.

Petrol engines are just really big vacuum pumps though.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

dissss posted:

drat cool - you sure don't see many of those around any more, especially with the fibreglass top.

As an aside have you noticed how insane prices are on the 100 series still? 20k and up for 15+ year old vehicles with 300,000 and up on the clock. Hell that first one isn't even the turbo and has done over half a million kms - talk about Toyota tax.

Lol gently caress the 100, you can't even get a decent 80 for less than 10k.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

You are going to the wrong places for your warrant if you think you'll fail by sticking a turbo on a non-turbo diesel. Most places wouldn't even notice if the engine doesn't match on something like that; unless it's a broom-pishh type car, nobody except VTNZ and their ilk give a drat.

Also an LVV costs like 450 bucks and most inspectors are far less strict than you would imagine if you're just doing something minor like that.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Raluek posted:

So it sounds like you're saying that he should get a stock turbodiesel pull, and make sure the swap looks clean and stock, and play dumb if he gets called on it?

'Cause that doesn't sound like the worst plan.

Yup. Nobody bothers to decipher the toyota engine codes and double check that stuff except the pseudo-officially sanctioned testing stations like VTNZ etc. There are so many flavours and variants of japanese import floating around, each with their own super special engine/driveline/brakes/wheels/suspension variation, that if it looks 100% factory and not aftermarket (so no silicon ducting, resist the temptation of shiny bits etc)it'll very seldom be questioned.*

Then if, by some incredible series of misfortunes you get pinged for it, you play dumb and get your cert (which you will because it's loving factory isn't it) and pay a one-time fee of several hundred dollars which you would be happy to hurl at a differential or bigger brakes or w/e. Think of it as just another price for having your nice interesting car!

*:ricy cars excepted. Nobody gives a gently caress if your ancient 4x4 has a factory turbo diesel with a whopping 180hp or not; they're trained to fixate on non-turbo base model legacies which magically have a turbo and fully sikk suspension, mazda wagons which are like totally factory turbo bro with lovely chinese coilovers et al

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

dissss posted:

Yep

Still wouldn't be surprised if OP gets pinged on that (lack of) bumper though

IMO everyone who has that kind of car gets written off as an offroad loony and not a threat to anyone but themselves as long as it's clean and tidy, which it very much is, and the rest of the car like shocks/brakes etc aren't screwy.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Those apps read notoriously high, too :v:

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

gimpsuitjones posted:

so I'm on the hunt for a second car which I really don't need and I found this which is insanely rad and I'm also wildly unable to afford it this month. Ticks all the boxes:
- Retro
-Toyota
-Cheap (ish)
-Brown




What could possibly go wrong?




e: definitely not buying it. this month.

Motherfucker that is insanely priced. Insanely. As in I wish I hadn't just spent $1200 on two motorbikes.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

gimpsuitjones posted:

Now you mention it, I guess this is true, and I feel like an idiot for paying someone $95 to adjust my toe-in by like a degree. I think the noticeably more wandering steering is just due to the new (old) secondhand tyres and the wear pattern not suiting my truck, but I wanted to be sure cos I'm driving 1100km on Friday. Got a quote for 4 new BFG ATs today but ughhh $430 each (33/10.5R15)

:stare:

Welp, there goes my plan of buying a 4x4.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

gimpsuitjones posted:

All tyres in NZ are inported from somewhere, and therefore expensive. I want 33x10.5R15 and only BFG and I think Toyo make them but I prefer BFGs AT

33x12.5R15 prices Chinese mud tires 270, Kumho KL71 363, KL78 339


It's hard to get prices online for stuff like Cooper or Mickey Thompson but they're $BFG or worse, Maxxis is about the same

To elaborate, all tyres in NZ are imported from somewhere...by like 3 different companies. If you want motorbike tyres there are....two different companies. The market is too small to have actual competition so we get monopoly instead.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

That intake is good for 20hp at least.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

The bottleneck might create a venturi effect of sorts :v:

Also imagine the disappointment in taking off that housing and finding a thermostat instead of a BJ.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

gimpsuitjones posted:

Ok fine I rotated my clamps



my rough starting when cold has come back. It went away last time I changed the oil and adjusted up the idle but now it's back and worse than ever. Seems to miss on one cylinder when cold unless I give it some revs for a couple of seconds on startup. Just changed the oil and filter again, using Castrol GTX 15-40 diesel this time, didn't use diesel specific oil last time. Hopefully it's better tomorrow morning with fresh oil..

PO (a friend) changed the glow plugs not too long before I got it but I guess I'm going to have to change them when I get some spare cash and see if that helps too, otherwise I'm flat out of ideas - unless it's something like the leaky injector pump letting air in and needing a bit of help to get going

I've seen a busted fuel filter plunger make this happen too.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

gimpsuitjones posted:

really any expenditure is off the cards in the next few weeks cos I'm *this close* to buying a house

You loving gently caress.







Wait you're in the south island nm.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Ferremit posted:

1HZ is 10mm hose fittings, 1HD is 12mm, 3L hilux motor might be 8mm from memory? I know the 1KZ is 10mm.

L engine hiaces are deffo 8mm.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Red_Fred posted:

Your thread and a friend getting a Land cruiser has made me look into these. How are they to drive in traffic? Easy to park? What is the length from the back of the seats to the rear doors? I love these things but realistically I won't get off road much.

I'm in NZ too.

Get a 90 series prado instead, much easier to live with.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

gimpsuitjones posted:

Yup. There's the 1KZT and the 1KZTE, the TE has electronic fuel injection and the T had mechanical injection, I don't know if you'd ever find a 1KZT though. Good engine, makes heaps of power, just has a bit of a rep for cracking heads. 70 series Prados are cheaper than the heavy duty 70 series generally and a bit tougher than the 90 series which has IFS and more electrics and is more like a bigger uglier heavier more expensive Surf (get a surf instead imo)

I have to disagree here, the 90 doesn't have any more electrics than a Camry, they also rust a lot less than the 70 Prado and the quality of the interior, plastic bits etc is substantially better (whether this matters to you or not idk). The 70 Prado is also extremely hard to find with a 1kz, most of them have a 2L which is poo.

Also surfs are terrible overrated vehicles, don't buy one.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Seat Safety Switch posted:

Probably Daihatsu Delta is the only thing I can think of that would have a beefy diesel.

Rocky diesel aka toyota blizzard had a diesel but it might have been a #L, can't remember.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Don't use RTV with a gasket that is a horrible, horrible thing to do and makes things worse 100% of the time. The gasket will seal just fine by itself provided you cleaned off the mating surface properly.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Finally a purpose for one of the most useless things in existence: a concrete pseudo-deck.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

You need a different warrant place.

90% of problems like this are solved by spending no money and just going to different places until you find the 'right' one for you.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

I don't know if that solution is ideal because the transfer case oil 'full' level is a lot lower than the gearbox'. So you'll end up with an over-full transfer case (probably not a biggie) and an underfull gearbox (probably bad). But I'll defer to people who know more about muddy things on the matter.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

gimpsuitjones posted:

The oil leak goes tfer case - gearbox so when the gearbox gets overfull it runs back down to the tfer case. In theory.

Oh :downs:

I'm being informed by my experience with the gloriously terrible KUN26 where the box leaks into the spacer cavity between it and the transfer.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

loving south island gets all the good poo poo :(












That's a lie there's just less people to ruin it.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Drive it up to auckland and make an instant $4,000 profit.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Are you sure that camp site was crap? Wasn't just the fact that it was blenheim?

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Ferremit posted:

Dont waste your time with the hub gaskets unless they're genuine, they'll only leak grease if theyre aftermarket paper ones. I just use a smear of RTV and its golden.

Yeeapp. It's like never worth even trying to salvage the hub gaskets when you can just clean the everloving poo poo out of everything and stick some ThreeBond on there and never worry again

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

gimpsuitjones posted:

doing the whole swivel hubs

:shepicide: now I remember why I don't fix cars anymore.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Wait your truck is 24V? :aaa:

Also using a punch to undo those nuts was standard practice at the toyota dealership I worked at. Take that as you will.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

gimpsuitjones posted:

yeah dude, more cranking power for the high compression diesel or something


It's a bit messy but works I guess, that's how I snugged it up


any good tips for getting that circlip back on the axle? I threaded a bolt into the end of the axle, put a ring spanner over it and got a mate to lever it against the edge of the hub to hold the axle out while I used both hands to get the clip onto the axle with some circlip pliers, took 2 or 3 tries. would probably try make a tool if I didn't have a friend to help

Are you 100% certain it's a 24V truck and not just a 12V one that has two batteries in parallel? Cause 100 series, prado etc all have two batteries for the extra CCA but are still 12v; 24V gives no benefit to cranking at all because that's largely dependand on your amperage.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

That seems really peculiar. Not that I'm doubting you guys, I just can't see why they'd convert an entire truck electrical system to 24V just for the sake of the glow plugs; it seems like far too much effort (cost) for production. But stranger poo poo has happened.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Ferremit posted:

Some of the 80 series engines had 24v starters and 12v systems through some insane complicated system. On my 100 series turbo diesel toyota just fitted two N50 sized batteries in parallel and run that through a 3.5kw starter motor.

Makes it a piece of piss to do a dual battery system cos you just fit two N70's and drop an isolator into the link cable and bobs your uncle. They'll start just fine on a single battery well into the negatives cos they're direct injection diesels.

Yeah all the ones I've ever encountered with two batteries just had this setup. Learn something new every day! 24v is definitely for starter motor reasons at any rate; I'm just thinking about poo poo like the radio, dashboard lights, HVAC etc would all need to be different.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

That wheel bearing is completely shagged, ok bye.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Ferremit posted:

I wish you the best of luck if you do a full swivel hub rebuild. I just did one on my housemates HDJ105 last weekend (long story, had to replace the entire axle housing and fit a fully rebuilt diff centre after he drove like a knob and shattered the diff, bent the tie rod, dented the sump and bent the axle housing in one go) and we blew through about half a 10kg bag of rags, befouled about 30L of Jet A1 in the parts washer, went through what felt like half a box of nitrile gloves and used pretty much half a 2.5KG tub of moly grease and about half a tub of wheel bearing grease to do the whole thing.

Hopefully 73 series axles are smaller than 105 series axles are..

How did you manage to use so few rags??

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

They are not worth it. The difference between an LSD rear and nothing at all is yuuge, but the difference between open and LSD on the front is small (on mud IMO they're basically indistinguishable) while a true locker provides a tangible benefit. If you could do the swap for next to nothing and you like getting dirty (good time to rebuild those swivel hubs!) then go hog wild but otherwise just save some more and get an actual locker.

Not to mention the times you really wish you had a locker/LSD in the front is also the times the toyota front LSD's blow the gently caress up.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

I've said it before and I'll say it again: gently caress you south island you have all the cool poo poo.

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Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Switch to AM, listen to newstalk 100% of the time. This combined with a straw hat on the parcel tray makes you immune to traffic rules.

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