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I bought an Audi A5 with the MMI 3G Navigation in the US last year. I asked about updating the Nav when I bought it, in the event that I moved to Europe. The dealership/service department assured me that I could install European Maps on it, saying that it would probably cost about $600 to do it. Now I've moved to Germany and I'm finding out that it's a little more complicated than I was led to believe. Apparently the car is less expensive in the US, and reverse-importing it is cheaper than buying it here. Because of this, according to at least one Audi Forum, Audi is not keen on updating the Nav/Radio system. So my questions. First of all, what was the dealership talking about? Does Audi do it or not? Is there an alternative that won't screw up the car? Do I have any options that don't include sticking a Garmin to the windshield? Don't say sticking a Garmin to the dashboard.
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May 27, 2012 20:58
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Soap Bat Derby posted:I bought an Audi A5 with the MMI 3G Navigation in the US last year. I asked about updating the Nav when I bought it, in the event that I moved to Europe. The dealership/service department assured me that I could install European Maps on it, saying that it would probably cost about $600 to do it. You should be able to have your local dealer update the car with new maps by either ordering a new disc for or SD card and activation code for Europe maps 2012 if it's one of the newer ones. At my dealer we haven't personally updated or changed maps on non Europe car but I can't imagine any problems in doing so. I know that over here the maps cost around £200 plus labour if it needs activated to give you a rough guide to costs.
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May 27, 2012 22:43
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I got my Jetta checked out. Turned out a heat shield was moving ever so slightly when I turned the wheel hard and was clicking when it would slip under the bolts holding it down. Torquing them down fixed the problem but it took the technician a while to figure out what was causing the noise because the rest of the front suspension was pristine (it better be at 26k miles).
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May 28, 2012 01:40
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Those of you with Mk6/2010+ GTIs: does the iphone/ipod cable both charge/play music from an iPhone 3GS? Will I be able to make/receive calls over the handsfree system while it's doing so?
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May 29, 2012 20:43
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Residency Evil posted:Those of you with Mk6/2010+ GTIs: does the iphone/ipod cable both charge/play music from an iPhone 3GS? Will I be able to make/receive calls over the handsfree system while it's doing so? Should be able to charge/play music. As far as making/receiving calls, I doubt it. AFAIK, that's only done through Bluetooth.
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May 29, 2012 21:01
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BoyBlunder posted:Should be able to charge/play music. As far as making/receiving calls, I doubt it. AFAIK, that's only done through Bluetooth. I'm ok with that. I guess my question is does charging/music work well if bluetooth is on too? edit: Also can I get spotify to play through it? Residency Evil fucked around with this message at 21:16 on May 29, 2012 |
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May 29, 2012 21:06
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Not sure is this is the right thread to post this so if it's not, let me know and I'll delete. I'm looking for a first car for a new driver. She is kinda set on a VW and her budget is ~$4k (In Canada so we pay a premium). I've owned a 74 Beetle and an 86 Scirocco but I'm pretty much out of the loop on common issues to look for on the Mk IV's. We ran across this Jetta VR6 and was wondering what you experts thought. http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/pml/cto/3008569480.html Also, I read that the 2.0 NA Gas engine is the bulletproof option...should I be narrowing my selections down to that powerplant?
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May 29, 2012 23:38
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Viking Blood posted:Not sure is this is the right thread to post this so if it's not, let me know and I'll delete. New driver with a VR6 is a bad idea. That's probably the only time I'd actually recommend the 2.0. It is solid, and it is as slow as its reputation says it is.
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May 30, 2012 00:34
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EVERYWHERE 
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Residency Evil posted:I'm ok with that. I guess my question is does charging/music work well if bluetooth is on too? My friends have a 2010 and yes, it will charge/play as well as send the phone through bluetooth (pausing the music) when a call arrives. Spotify is really hit or miss. If you have it running when you dock it the play/pause/next/back controls normally work on the radio head. However I don't recall the song info coming up and there was absolutely no playlist control. The dock connector in the armrest is pathetically short too and if I remember right the screen locks out on the iphone when you plug it in, so using the screen controls to change playlists may be right out. A much slicker option (and what they use most often) is to send the music over the A2DP bluetooth connection. They have an iphone car charger in their 12V DC outlet and a small cradle on the dash. That way they can use the iphone screen to swipe forward/back and see the navigation app too. However in this setup the radio head and steering wheel controls can't change tracks and don't show track info. Their 2010 doesn't have voice dialing/commands though (it has a 9w2 bluetooth module). If you want you can upgrade the bluetooth module to a 9w7 very easily and get voice commands, the ability to enter phone numbers using the steering wheel controls and the MFD in the dash, and some other fun little things. I think the 9w2 to 9w7 upgrade requires a VAG COM reprogramming to enable the voice command button though. I have a 9w7 setup in my Jetta with my Android phone. It is some "World of Tomorrow" poo poo to be listening to music on headphones, get in the car, and have the music continue over the car stereo when you didn't even take the phone out of your pocket.
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May 30, 2012 03:12
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Thanks for the detailed response. I was looking at the 9w7 but I think I'll hold off for now as it's a $300+. All I'm worried about right now is making sure I have music/podcasts on my 22 hour drive. 
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May 30, 2012 04:37
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Where exactly needs lube on a 2007 GTIs sunroof? I noticed mine is getting a little grindy sounding when it opens and think it might be a good idea to lube it up. Also what grease is best to use?
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May 30, 2012 14:13
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Residency Evil posted:Thanks for the detailed response. I was looking at the 9w7 but I think I'll hold off for now as it's a $300+. All I'm worried about right now is making sure I have music/podcasts on my 22 hour drive. Oh it works great for podcasts and local music on the phone.
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May 30, 2012 17:01
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meatpimp posted:New driver with a VR6 is a bad idea. That's probably the only time I'd actually recommend the 2.0. It is solid, and it is as slow as its reputation says it is. This is completely correct. The 2.0 is a drat good engine, albeit slow as poo poo. My 95 had the 2.0 and ran for 150k miles before I sold with no major issues, and this was the car I had from the ages of about 19-26, so I beat the poo poo out of it daily. The vr6 is a 180hp engine, same as the 1.8t. If it's a new driver, he/she WILL get in trouble.
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May 30, 2012 17:58
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Thanks for the comments. I'm keeping my eyes open for a Mk3 2.0.
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May 30, 2012 18:57
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veedubfreak posted:This is completely correct. The 2.0 is a drat good engine, albeit slow as poo poo. My 95 had the 2.0 and ran for 150k miles before I sold with no major issues, and this was the car I had from the ages of about 19-26, so I beat the poo poo out of it daily. The vr6 is a 180hp engine, same as the 1.8t. If it's a new driver, he/she WILL get in trouble. No offense, but 180hp isn't that much guys. My brother had a GTI with the same motor, and it was great. It wasn't 'instant danger' by any means. We aren't talking about a RWD vehicle with 300hp. I'd easily consider it as a first car. In fact having more passing/merging power on the highway is a hell of a lot safer than less power. You haven't described the person either. If it's a reasonably responsible driver, there is no problem. The car will have the ability to do over 200 km/h without a problem, so if you were concerned about a 16 year old going out to see if she can top it out, then yeah, I would recommend against it. It's a very easy car to drive though, and having 180 hp doesn't change that. Kashwashwa fucked around with this message at 19:24 on May 30, 2012 |
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May 30, 2012 19:21
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Kashwashwa posted:No offense, but 180hp isn't that much guys. My brother had a GTI with the same motor, and it was great. It wasn't 'instant danger' by any means. We aren't talking about a RWD vehicle with 300hp. I was just going by my experiences. When I got my license, 180hp was still a fairly good amount of power for an econobox. Hell my first car had a mindblowing 55hp (1600dp air cooled).
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May 30, 2012 19:24
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Just chiming in to say my first car was a Mk3 2.0 Jetta. Bulletproof all around, and it withstood the driving of a 16 year old suburban male a few years after TF&F came out. I miss that car. 
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May 30, 2012 20:05
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vanilla slimfast posted:What are everyone's thoughts on the Q5 vs the Tiguan? Ended up getting the Tiguan. So far, loving it 
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May 30, 2012 20:05
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charismaslover posted:You should be able to have your local dealer update the car with new maps by either ordering a new disc for or SD card and activation code for Europe maps 2012 if it's one of the newer ones. I appreciate the response. Hopefully there are no issues, then. I will let update the thread when I get it done.
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May 31, 2012 17:04
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I currently own an 08' GTI and I've noticed that I seem to use a lot of oil. I think I use a lot of oil because typically when I'm close to my 5,000 mile mark, sometimes my oil pressure light comes on when I make a hard turn. After my hard turn I slow down a bit and the light goes away. At this point in time I typically just add in another quart (sometimes two) into of 5W-40 until my next oil change. But I'm wondering if that's normal for the car or should I take it into the dealer?
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May 31, 2012 18:33
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obi_ant posted:I currently own an 08' GTI and I've noticed that I seem to use a lot of oil. I think I use a lot of oil because typically when I'm close to my 5,000 mile mark, sometimes my oil pressure light comes on when I make a hard turn. After my hard turn I slow down a bit and the light goes away. At this point in time I typically just add in another quart (sometimes two) into of 5W-40 until my next oil change. But I'm wondering if that's normal for the car or should I take it into the dealer? Yes, the 2.0t has issues burning oil. If it's under warranty take it in and see what they say, if not, just check it every so often. Apparently there were issues with the rings not sealing completely, although I don't remember what years off of the top of my head. Google has plenty of hits on 2.0t burning oil.
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May 31, 2012 22:21
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Well, I got my first estimate back for repairs from the vw dealership (my 02 Passat got hit in the side by a car, which send my car into a curb), and it seems pretty bad. Seems like the subframe ate the curb first, leaving a big dent and bouncing the car up, and it landed right on the transmission, leaving a big dent and bending it enough to break the seal (there's tranny fluid all over apparently). On top of that the sway bar mounts are messed up and one control arm is bent, and some other small things. Around 2 grand in parts, and then labor on top of that (the tech wasn't real sure how much it would cost to do somethings like fixing the subframe, the car's being looked over at a body shop for that sort of thing right now). All that damage, + it's going to need 2 new doors, possibly new front/rear quarter panels, and a new front bumper, and I'm starting to think this car's going to wind up getting totaled.  At least this happened BEFORE I got the timing belt changed, I guess. e. Pictures!  
Dr. Despair fucked around with this message at 02:01 on Jun 1, 2012 |
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Jun 1, 2012 01:10
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Mr. Despair posted:Well, I got my first estimate back for repairs from the vw dealership (my 02 Passat got hit in the side by a car, which send my car into a curb), and it seems pretty bad. Hit and run or did you actually get their insurance info? As nice as it is to have a paid off car, this is one thing that always concerns me. A paid off car is worth a lot more to me than what insurance will pay out on it if it gets totaled. Sucks though.
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Jun 1, 2012 15:08
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veedubfreak posted:Hit and run or did you actually get their insurance info? As nice as it is to have a paid off car, this is one thing that always concerns me. A paid off car is worth a lot more to me than what insurance will pay out on it if it gets totaled. Sucks though. Everything was insured, and no hit and run, and there was a police report filed citing the other driver at fault. Still not sure if the car will be totaled or not, but mostly I'm worried at this point if there's any tranny damage under that dent. It seemed to shift good driving it to the body shop, but noone's actually opened it up to look yet.
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Jun 1, 2012 17:33
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Viking Blood posted:Not sure is this is the right thread to post this so if it's not, let me know and I'll delete. I second this. I have an 02 Golf 2.0 and it is terrifyingly slow. I would argue that VR6/1.8 is much safer for this reason and as a previous poster stated 180/200 is not insane. Also, $4000 for that is too much $$.
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Jun 3, 2012 03:50
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ThirstyBuck posted:I second this. I have an 02 Golf 2.0 and it is terrifyingly slow. I would argue that VR6/1.8 is much safer for this reason and as a previous poster stated 180/200 is not insane. Also, $4000 for that is too much $$. Any mk4 body style VR6 is getting up there in age and there is nothing on a VR6 that is cheaper to repair than a 1.8t or a 2.0. Most things are much more expensive so keep that in mind.
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Jun 3, 2012 15:16
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Thanks for the advice. I think we have decided to wait a couple of months so that we can add enough to the war-chest to be able to afford a 4 year old lease return. I'm finding that the difference between a half decent but older Jetta/Golf and a lease return on the dealer's lot is a gap that I'm willing to bridge for many reasons. I'll post up our new addition in a couple of months.
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Jun 4, 2012 16:33
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Took my 06 A4 in to the shop for it's 85k checkup and got back a lovely surprise. My service rep said that the motor mounts are going and the upper guide link bushings needing repair on both the left and right front arms. Cost to do everything is $2,000, with $1,200 of that being the motor mounts and the rest being for the bushings. Does that sound like a reasonable price for the repairs?
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Jun 4, 2012 21:09
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gently caress, check engine light came on a few days ago and I just now got around to making an appointment at the dealer to get it looked at. Turns out the thermostat and turbo intake valve both need to be replaced. Too bad my extended warranty cover neither and the dealer wants about $1200 to repair both parts. Are those something a semi auto noob would be able to repair assuming I had the parts?
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Jun 4, 2012 22:02
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^^^Thermostat should be fairly straight forward not sure about the other. Why doesn't the extended warranty cover it? Didn't get the top tier one?real_scud posted:Took my 06 A4 in to the shop for it's 85k checkup and got back a lovely surprise. My service rep said that the motor mounts are going and the upper guide link bushings needing repair on both the left and right front arms. That sounds like reasonable dealership prices. Find a good independent shop and pay half that.
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Jun 4, 2012 22:55
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Well poo poo, it actually looks like the reason they declined the repair was that my car isn't actually in warranty any longer. Not sure why I thought the warranty lasted until 85,000 miles 
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Jun 5, 2012 07:42
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Wicaeed posted:Well poo poo, it actually looks like the reason they declined the repair was that my car isn't actually in warranty any longer. Not sure why I thought the warranty lasted until 85,000 miles VW has one of the shittiest warranties available for a new vehicle. Back in the good ol' days of the 2 year warranty, my dad bought a brand new '69 bus and 25 months after owning it the engine poo poo itself and their response was something along the lines of,"That sucks."
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Jun 5, 2012 22:39
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keykey posted:VW has one of the shittiest warranties available for a new vehicle. Back in the good ol' days of the 2 year warranty, my dad bought a brand new '69 bus and 25 months after owning it the engine poo poo itself and their response was something along the lines of,"That sucks." Seriously, I keep going back to the VW dealership and looking at new GTI's, telling myself the price isn't THAT bad, and then I remember that it's a 35,000 mile warranty when practically everything else has almost twice the mileage on their warranty. What the gently caress are VW thinking? *sigh*
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Jun 6, 2012 04:37
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Wicaeed posted:gently caress, check engine light came on a few days ago and I just now got around to making an appointment at the dealer to get it looked at. Wow. That's maybe $100 parts, $100 labor. You could definitely do it. Eff VW.
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Jun 6, 2012 04:43
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Wicaeed posted:Seriously, I keep going back to the VW dealership and looking at new GTI's, telling myself the price isn't THAT bad, and then I remember that it's a 35,000 mile warranty when practically everything else has almost twice the mileage on their warranty. What are you talking about? VW offers a 3yr/36k bumper to bumper and a 5y/60k powertrain warranty. Which, off the top of my head, is the same as Ford, Toyota (& Scion), Subaru, Nissan & Honda.
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Jun 6, 2012 04:47
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10 year 100k mile powertrain on the Touareg. German Craftsmanship 
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Jun 6, 2012 04:52
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Keykey, if you're still have limp mode troubles then try the guys at forums.tdiclub.com
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Jun 6, 2012 06:35
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Opensourcepirate posted:Keykey, if you're still have limp mode troubles then try the guys at forums.tdiclub.com Yeah, I've already opened a thread there, I use a different username. The hell of it is, there are 5 threads in the mk3 forums where people had the exact same issue, they all got help and none of the assholes posted either thanking the people for helping them of divulging what the drat problem was. That's what I really hate about most forums is people getting what they need then bolting so there's no resolution for other people with the same issue which completely defeats the purpose of a vehicle troubleshooting sub-forum. edit: According to the FAQ's these are some things of what could possibly be wrong: low fuel delivery or wrong fuel in tank or clogged fuel filter, grossly wrong injection timing (will set other codes - check if within specifications - see TDIFAQ), wastegate stuck open, N75 control valve stuck open, clogged exhaust or catalyst, clogged air intake or intake manifold, major leak of boost pressure to atmosphere. So far I've replaced the fuel filter, replaced the n75, replace all vacuum hoses, replaced air intake, cleaned snow screen, replaced MAF, checked wastegate pressure and it holds with no leaks. The only thing I haven't done is have my injection timing checked which I think is my next step but I need to find somebody with a VAGCOM rather than pay the local VW dealership $275. Hell, I can get a VAGCOM for that price and do it myself. keykey fucked around with this message at 16:28 on Jun 6, 2012 |
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Jun 6, 2012 16:15
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The myturbodiesel forums are also pretty good, if you want to keep trying with internet advice. VAGCOM should definately be done though. There's also codes that might come up that aren't OBDII codes and won't trigger a CEL.
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Jun 6, 2012 16:33
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I decided that I'm not going to the dealer anymore for my car maintenance. They take a bit too long and they're expensive. Their oil changes take about 8 hours, and the last service I had at 20,000 was about $500. How would I be able to look for a nice place to service my GTI aside from going to Yelp? I'm in the San Francisco area if that helps.
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Jun 6, 2012 19:24
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