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My immobilizer acted up once after some rain got in the cabin.......somehow. Mysteriously. It'd fire up, catch, and die 3 seconds later. Every time. Which is a weird way for an immobilizer to work.
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Jul 3, 2012 02:56
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Sockington posted:My 2002 NB just randomly died on the way home. It cranks over but won't start. Was it a hot day? When it cranked, did it seem like it might catch? Any CEL? Because it seems like you're my lovely CAS buddy   . Mine just died on me for the first time a last week in light traffic, and then again a few days later on the highway. Both days were hot as hell, and apparently repositioning the CAS on VVT engines to the rear of the valve cover caused them to heat up more and poo poo themselves prematurely. Letting it cool for 30 minutes or so always allowed me to start as if nothing happened.My replacement part literally just arrived too, it's this little bitch that cost like £80 to order from England:  See the Mitsubishi logo there? That's why it's a common fault! Seriously though, it's a bit disappointing that this one crappy part already left me stranded twice while my 3 years older GM car leaked oil and coolant but never once failed to run or start. By the way, what are all the places where I can find the paint code on a 2003 NB? The door sticker only has tire information, while the plate on the firewall only has the VIN and weight information. I really need to order a few other parts and want to get the touch-up kit as well. The problem is that it's titanium silver or something that has two codes associated with it. Edit: Ahh and another question. What sort of things do I need to replace the stock double-DIN modular radio with a single DIN Pioneer unit like this one? I initially wanted to just add AUX in, but seeing as how I'd be out of at least 100-150 bucks and end up with an awkward setup, might as well replace the whle thing. Besides the stuff that comes in the box, will I need this brace or some additional cables? mobby_6kl fucked around with this message at 09:48 on Jul 3, 2012 |
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Jul 3, 2012 09:09
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If you're talking about an NA/NB (not bose), all the bracing/brackets will come in the box when you order from any reputable online retailer. I went with sonic electronix.
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Jul 3, 2012 14:05
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I picked up a Kenwood unit and speakers from Crutchfield awhile back, and they sent me everything I needed plus directions on taking apart the door and dash.
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Jul 3, 2012 14:29
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Dominoes posted:NC problem: How's it going NC buddy? I would try to loosen the plastic, but keep it in place, and use an extending magnet wand to try to snag them, hopefully without pulling apart your car.
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Jul 3, 2012 14:38
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Yeah, it's the NB non Bose unit. A bit small to see but it's there:
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Jul 3, 2012 15:24
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I put in one of those little trays in the bottom slot and I'm so happy with it. I almost love it more than the new radio I put in above it
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Jul 3, 2012 15:42
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I'm looking to get one of those as well, it should increase the storage capacity of the car by about 30%  I found this page which states that I'll need the mounting bracket and a wiring adapter. Well, I'll take care of maintenance first and the radio situation will become clear when I try to stick it in with whatever I'll have!Any ideas on the paint code location though? I'd really like to get the touch-up kit to fix the little scratches before going to the people who know what they're doing for the larger ones.
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Jul 3, 2012 16:41
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My paint code was on my door jamb sticker.
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Jul 4, 2012 01:50
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That's where I thought it should be, but I only have the tire pressure information there:
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Jul 4, 2012 08:31
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GOD IS BED posted:How's it going NC buddy? I would try to loosen the plastic, but keep it in place, and use an extending magnet wand to try to snag them, hopefully without pulling apart your car. Dominoes fucked around with this message at 17:29 on Jul 4, 2012 |
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Jul 4, 2012 16:34
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mobby_6kl posted:Was it a hot day? When it cranked, did it seem like it might catch? Any CEL? Because it seems like you're my lovely CAS buddy It was hot as gently caress that day and felt like a sauna when I popped the hood. It drove fine later in the evening when it had a chance to cool down. I'm going to order a cam sensor since it seems to be a common failure on the NBs and I'm not sure what else it could be. Aftermarket or OEM?
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Jul 4, 2012 16:59
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I found out my manifold is cracked so I ordered a set of Raceland headers for my 96. It fits okay except for the usual EGR tube problem, which just requires a little bit of bending. The problem is I can't get the last bolt holding the egr tube in from behind the head. I can almost get a wrench on it but there is nowhere near enough space to turn it, so I tried pulling the coilpacks and dropping a socket down from above but it seems to be angled in such a way that the tube itself is blocking the socket from being able to get on the bolt head. I'm about ready to cut the bracket but I'm not even sure theres enough space to get something in there to cut it. Is there some kind of trick to it that I'm missing?
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Jul 4, 2012 22:49
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I used to have a similar problem with a LT1 F body. Try getting a special wrench, and on the closed head part of it, grind away as much material as you can so its very thin around the star/hex pattern that goes onto the bolt. You can also shorten it/bisect it to make it easier to work with, if you dont need the leverage. Making custom tools for one job on one car is sometimes part of the game 
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Jul 4, 2012 23:16
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mobby_6kl posted:That's where I thought it should be, but I only have the tire pressure information there: Ah NC, mines a NA. I would just call Mazda and give them your VIN.
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Jul 4, 2012 23:22
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I just ran into a little problem on my 2002 NB. I got in yesterday and found the parking brake disengaged with the button on the lever stuck down. Not sure how that happened, but I must have forgotten to engage it when I parked the night before. Luckily I have a level garage. I have had the button get stuck down in the past, but usually I can just wiggle it around and it eventually frees itself. Not a big deal since it really just keeps me from getting the ratchet to engage when I pull back on the handle. So I start messing with it to get it unstuck and pull back on the handle not expecting the ratchet to engage...but it does. Since the button is already stuck down, I can't press it to release it. So my car is stuck in my garage with its parking brake on and I can't r I've tried wiggling it around and pressing it to get it free, but that isn't getting me anywhere. I also tried removing the screw down near the base of the handle hoping that would let me loosen things up, but that didn't get me anywhere either. I think I need to get the ratchet to release, but I can't figure out how to get in there. Any advice?
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Jul 5, 2012 00:19
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Sockington posted:It was hot as gently caress that day and felt like a sauna when I popped the hood. It drove fine later in the evening when it had a chance to cool down. What you describe sounds typical for the cam sensor failure, from what I've read, and also matches my experience with it. It took all of a minute to swap it out in the middle of the road when it died again yesterday (it was raining before so I didn't bother to replace it). Afterwards starter right up and had no signs of the previous problems. I think Mitsubishi was the OEM for this sensor, and I really wouldn't risk installing something sketchy with a part that can single handedly leave you stuck in the middle of nowhere with no warning. Still, if you can find something significantly cheaper, you could just keep the old one in the trunk for backup. streetlamp posted:Ah NC, mines a NA. I would just call Mazda and give them your VIN. It's most definitely an NB, but if those two letters in the corner are supposed to correspond to the model, the PO must have replaced the sticker for some reason 
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Jul 5, 2012 09:22
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Something in my clutch hydraulic system is leaking, I'm 99% sure it's the slave cylinder but I'll know for sure when I check it out this evening. Assuming it's the slave cylinder, do I want to buy a Mazda part, buy an aftermarket cheapo part, or get a rebuild kit? Should I replace the master cylinder and lines as well if they look old, or just fix stuff as it breaks?
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Jul 12, 2012 16:03
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Weinertron posted:Something in my clutch hydraulic system is leaking, I'm 99% sure it's the slave cylinder but I'll know for sure when I check it out this evening. Assuming it's the slave cylinder, do I want to buy a Mazda part, buy an aftermarket cheapo part, or get a rebuild kit? if you have the money, buy decent brand parts and do the master slave and lines all in one go. It will save you potentially doing the job twice, and everything will be new and working well. Thats pretty much how i approach all repairs: replace as much as possible when going into the engine, so as to take care of any potential issues without doing it part by part, again and again. I dont know anyone who rebuilds things like cylinders except graybeards with their own garages and a bench vise. For comparison the rebuild kits are usualy 75% of the price of a new cylinder, so figure out which one makes sense based on how much you like loving around with uneeded repair work.
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Jul 12, 2012 16:13
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I'm having random detonation issues. It's not extreme, but enough for me to hear it. The motor will be sounding perfect for days then all of a sudden I get pinging for no apparent reason under normal acceleration. I have tried 93 octane but it doesn't make a difference. I have replaced the plugs and wires (NGK). I have run seafoam through the intake. What confuses me is the random part of it.....If the head and pistons were gummed up wouldn't it be a constant problem? Maybe a timing issue?
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Jul 12, 2012 16:56
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mobby_6kl posted:I think Mitsubishi was the OEM for this sensor, and I really wouldn't risk installing something sketchy with a part that can single handedly leave you stuck in the middle of nowhere with no warning. Still, if you can find something significantly cheaper, you could just keep the old one in the trunk for backup. Mitsubishi probably also built the alternator, and did build the NA cam sensor, coilpack, and ignition module. Just because MMoA and Fuso suck, doesn't mean a vaguely related electronics manufacturer can't build parts.
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Jul 12, 2012 17:00
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leica posted:I'm having random detonation issues. It's not extreme, but enough for me to hear it. The motor will be sounding perfect for days then all of a sudden I get pinging for no apparent reason under normal acceleration. I have tried 93 octane but it doesn't make a difference. I have replaced the plugs and wires (NGK). I have run seafoam through the intake. What confuses me is the random part of it.....If the head and pistons were gummed up wouldn't it be a constant problem? Maybe a timing issue? It could be cylinder 4 overheating. On cars without a coolant reroute I always keep the heater on because I've seen so many cars overheat just on cylinder 4. This was more common when I lived in Texas, up north it's probably cool enough where it doesn't matter unless you're racing. I saw 3 cars burn up cylinder 4 in Texas, never anywhere else.
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Jul 12, 2012 18:40
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To add to that, I'd just the coolant/overfill make sure that it isn't a cooling issue. Post on mnet and see if anybody has had the same issues.
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Jul 12, 2012 18:47
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Yeah I'll check mnet, but in the meantime I'll plan a coolant flush, it needs one anyway.
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Jul 12, 2012 19:04
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Raw_Beef posted:if you have the money, buy decent brand parts and do the master slave and lines all in one go. It will save you potentially doing the job twice, and everything will be new and working well. In my opinion, just do the slave. I bought one from Autozone and it was fine. I hear people always say replace both, the master cylinder will fail shortly after, blah blah blah. I've had them fail on a couple cars and never had the master all the sudden crap out just because the slave did. Things like this are a quick way to make a simple, cheap repair take a lot longer and cost much more.
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Jul 12, 2012 22:03
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DreamOn13 posted:In my opinion, just do the slave. I bought one from Autozone and it was fine. I hear people always say replace both, the master cylinder will fail shortly after, blah blah blah. I've had them fail on a couple cars and never had the master all the sudden crap out just because the slave did. Things like this are a quick way to make a simple, cheap repair take a lot longer and cost much more. The car isn't a special snowflake and has many other niggling mechanical and cosmetic issues, so I will only be fixing stuff that is definitely broken. I'm just going to grab one from an auto parts store or maybe a dealer if the Mazda OEM part is really cheap. If the lines look bad I'll replace them, if not I figure they're ok for a while. Twerk from Home fucked around with this message at 22:54 on Jul 12, 2012 |
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Jul 12, 2012 22:52
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DreamOn13 posted:In my opinion, just do the slave. I bought one from Autozone and it was fine. I hear people always say replace both, the master cylinder will fail shortly after, blah blah blah. I've had them fail on a couple cars and never had the master all the sudden crap out just because the slave did. Things like this are a quick way to make a simple, cheap repair take a lot longer and cost much more. I'm not a Miata guy, just a tech in general. Its usually easy to replace the entire clutch hydraulic system on japanese cars. You dont have to do both, but if it was mine and i had the money id do it, since you may have to remove the same parts to replace the lines/master as you did to get acess to the slave, again i dont know miata specifics here, but generally its true. Might want some line wrenches, or it can make an easy job into hell when you strip the hard line fittings. The clutch system is not some minor annoying isssue like a blinker lens or slow leak on a tire. When it fails you stop going. Raw_Beef fucked around with this message at 01:41 on Jul 13, 2012 |
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Jul 13, 2012 01:38
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leica posted:I'm having random detonation issues. It's not extreme, but enough for me to hear it. The motor will be sounding perfect for days then all of a sudden I get pinging for no apparent reason under normal acceleration. I have tried 93 octane but it doesn't make a difference. I have replaced the plugs and wires (NGK). I have run seafoam through the intake. What confuses me is the random part of it.....If the head and pistons were gummed up wouldn't it be a constant problem? Maybe a timing issue? Are you sure it's random? My timing is advanced to 12 degrees and I get very slight spark knock under specific conditions; accelerating past 5k RPMs in stop and go traffic on a hot day. I just take it easy when commuting on hot days and no knock. It took several sessions with a timing light and test drives before I figured that out though. Not that I'm an expert, that was the first time I had ever used a timing light without my dad looking over my shoulder so if you have already thought of that never mind. 8th-snype fucked around with this message at 11:07 on Jul 13, 2012 |
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Jul 13, 2012 10:47
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Yeah it's definitely random because it will happen on a cool night, then will run perfect on a hot day, and here in FL that's hot. I specifically listen for it on all my cars for that reason, usually during the dog days of summer I run 93 in my cars if I hear any pinging. My Crown Vic tends to ping in the summer so I run 93. But the Miata will sound fine one day in the heat pushing it hard, then the next day it's pinging on a cool night with me barely on the throttle  [edit] I posted on m.net with no responses. Guess I'll have to look into no.4 cylinder over heating unless someone would like to go into detail about it here. Honestly I'd rather stay in this forum
Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 19:10 on Jul 13, 2012 |
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Jul 13, 2012 18:27
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Raw_Beef posted:I'm not a Miata guy, just a tech in general. Its usually easy to replace the entire clutch hydraulic system on japanese cars. You dont have to do both, but if it was mine and i had the money id do it, since you may have to remove the same parts to replace the lines/master as you did to get acess to the slave, again i dont know miata specifics here, but generally its true. Might want some line wrenches, or it can make an easy job into hell when you strip the hard line fittings. It's six of one, half dozen of the other. Both master and slave are (IMO) pretty damned easy on a Miata so there's not much reason to not do both just to avoid it (I did have both fail on my NB over time), but at the same time each one is so easy on its own I can't fault someone for waiting until each cylinder fails to replace it instead of doing it as a set. It really isn't much more work to do each one separately than it is to do them together.
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Jul 13, 2012 18:39
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If I were you, I'd only want to bleed the clutch line once.
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Jul 13, 2012 21:10
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Phone posted:If I were you, I'd only want to bleed the clutch line once. This is my main deal reguarding hydraulic systems. Open them as little as possible so you dont have to go through the mess with that paint eater fluid often, but yeah if its all easy on a miata, and you want to do it on a budget, no harm really in just replacing whats bad now, just not my style. Of course mine is more "do nothing bcause i cant afford everything at once"
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Jul 14, 2012 02:33
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Are there any obvious problems you guys can spot in this ad? http://omaha.craigslist.org/cto/3079303278.html I mean aside from the lack of information. I will assume it is a stick shift, with a clear title. I like the racing stripe (There was never a factory option that, right?) and the wheels, and the hard top. The single low res shot of the interior looks pretty amazing, which is usually a good sign for the rest of the car.
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Jul 20, 2012 03:28
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Nothing stands out really. Heavy high offset wheels can wear bearings quickly, but its not expensive or difficult to change them if you spring for a whole new assembly. Its a big chunk of change, but i paid more for my 1996 with fewer miles but no hardtop. Drive it and go to town. The stripe is not factory at all tho.
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Jul 20, 2012 03:40
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^^ those wheels look like 15" OZ Superleggeras which seem like a perfect Miata wheel to me. They're not at all heavy nor high offset. They're like 11 lbs (if that's actually them). edit: Replacing the slave and bleeding it is so trivial there's really no reason to change the master at the same time. There's zero correlation with them both failing together as there is in something like if one spark plug is worn out then the others are probably in a similar condition. Replacing the master at the same time 'just because' really strikes me as excessive and wasteful. aventari fucked around with this message at 04:43 on Jul 20, 2012 |
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Jul 20, 2012 04:38
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aventari posted:^^ those wheels look like 15" OZ Superleggeras which seem like a perfect Miata wheel to me. They're not at all heavy nor high offset. They're like 11 lbs (if that's actually them). Yeah, there is a correlation with one part of a hydraulic system failing and other parts being close behind. Its not 100%, but you wouldnt replace just ONE brake caliper or wheel cylinder, would you? The master cylinder has gone through as many pressurized movements as the slave that failed, how do you think its internal seals are compared to a new unit? If its so trivial to do it, then just DO IT and its done, now and forever because the new master will probably last ten years. This is also me assuming the master cyl costs somwhere under $60. hardly exessive and wasteful since most of you like to 'rally' and like i said, if the master fails youre done for the day, enjoy rpm matching to get the car home. We can agree to disagree on this and stop this tangent because nobody will convince anyone, I'm not changing my position. Miatas are cool i dont own one And am not cool, so feel free to ignore me. Raw_Beef fucked around with this message at 06:24 on Jul 20, 2012 |
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Jul 20, 2012 06:18
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Raw_Beef posted:Yeah, there is a correlation with one part of a hydraulic system failing and other parts being close behind. Its not 100%, but you wouldnt replace just ONE brake caliper or wheel cylinder, would you? Why not? Again why fix things that aren't failed. I'm not going to replace the entire brake system because of a defect in a seal on one part.
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Jul 21, 2012 02:08
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FatCow posted:Why not? Again why fix things that aren't failed. I'm not going to replace the entire brake system because of a defect in a seal on one part. Because you're already under the car, it's a cheap part, and that's the whole concept of preventative maintenance?
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Jul 21, 2012 02:12
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Knowing the slave/master reps on Miatas I would without a doubt replace both if only one fails because the other will be soon to follow 9 times out of ten if they are the originals. The parts are cheap enough and I'd rather do the job once thank you very much. The only way I wouldn't do it is if I was completely broke and could only afford one or the other.
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Jul 21, 2012 04:56
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FatCow posted:Why not? Again why fix things that aren't failed. I'm not going to replace the entire brake system because of a defect in a seal on one part. As a professional, I'd sell doing the master as well. If the slave is bad the master is in suspect shape. It's not that much more money. It really isn't that hard to do. It keeps you from having to come back in X miles with a bad master. The only way I'd not do it is if time a/o money is way tight for some reason. If I had one bad front caliper I'd do both fronts. When I do a timing belt I do the water pump regardless.
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Jul 21, 2012 18:24
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