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Koirhor posted:I'm more offended that Toyota decided that it needed to be a Scion in the USA, so the Toyota president literally says "Hay wtf no sports car for Toyota, let's make one" Proceeds to make one and then put a Scion badge on it in arguably their largest market. If I ever get one rebadging will be the very first thing I do. But will you be so committed that you'll also get the Toyota airbag ($800)?  Re: Spark Plugs, there has to be an easier way... this is just the "official" version. Alternately, I see a lot of people installing stiffer/new motor mounts @ 60k
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Jul 17, 2012 05:24
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:Yeah, it doesn't seem that much different from any other Subaru. Seems a hell of a lot different to me. The service manual for my 2002 WRX only has you removing the battery and washer fluid bottle on the driver's side and the air intake on the passenger side. There's no disconnect exhaust and engine lifting fuckary. There looks like there's even more clearance on my '11. It almost looks like I could get them from below without removing anything. That said, most driver's will only every have to replace the plugs once, maybe twice in the lifetime of the car. I would be interested to see what the actual labor for that is as a dealer as it may be worth it just to not gently caress with it.
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Jul 17, 2012 05:24
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It is going to be a lot harder. The engine is a lot lower and farther back because it doesn't have to be in front of and above the front differential. Plugs are definitely way harder to get to and the service manual for a WRX says nothing about unbolting motor mounts wherever that idea came from. Until people actually start doing it we'll never know though. As far as wheels go, there are plenty of options out there because the fitment is the same as for the 02-present WRX. People bitch about it not being 5x114 but the car is light enough that it probably won't need a hub upgrade (even though I have it mostly figured out). My friend Matt plans on spending a lot of time at the track in his FRS so we'll see. He has AST shocks on order and a set of 17x9 mach V wheels with RS3s. jamal fucked around with this message at 07:11 on Jul 17, 2012 |
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Jul 17, 2012 06:57
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revmoo posted:Holy loving poo poo! I no longer have any interest in this car. What the gently caress were they thinking?  Get over it. It's been designed to have nothing compromise its handling or centre of gravity. So you get to choose: buy this car and enjoy driving. Then save up $5 for every 1000 miles you drive and use that to pay a shop to do the plug change. Or buy an 80s beater with no goddamn modern technology that can break because only a real man changes his own plugs and drives cars he can engine swap in his backyard in under 5 minutes.
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Jul 17, 2012 07:00
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I'm just going to assume that almost all the BRZs and FR-Ss will still be running on the stock plugs ten years from now.
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Jul 17, 2012 10:00
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Is there a timing belt service at 120 ish thousand kilometers? (around what the EJ's are). Wondering why Subaru didn't spend the extra 100 bucks on iridium plugs and have them done when the whole front of the car was off anyway?
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Jul 17, 2012 11:59
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Ecstatic posted:Is there a timing belt service at 120 ish thousand kilometers? (around what the EJ's are). Uh, which part of "budget sports car" don't you understand? 
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Jul 17, 2012 12:44
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Devyl posted:I'm just going to assume that almost all the BRZs and FR-Ss will still be running on the stock plugs ten years from now. Upgraded plugs will be a huge selling point when people are looking to trade up "yeah dude, took me 7 hours, worth it"
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Jul 17, 2012 14:13
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Bumming Your Scene posted:Upgraded plugs will be a huge selling point when people are looking to trade up N/A Subarus before the BRZ: Remove engine, change head gaskets. N/A Subaru BRZ: Remove engine, change spark plugs. 
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Jul 17, 2012 16:05
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Might as well get those head gaskets too while it's down. 
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Jul 17, 2012 16:36
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Ecstatic posted:Is there a timing belt service at 120 ish thousand kilometers? (around what the EJ's are).
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Jul 17, 2012 16:42
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Devyl posted:I'm just going to assume that almost all the BRZs and FR-Ss will still be running on the stock plugs ten years from now. Just like the rear 3 plugs on FWD V6's.
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Jul 17, 2012 23:12
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So I guess I'll invest in a hoist in the next five years, and I'll just refresh the whole drat engine at sixty thousand miles. It'll probably need a clutch at that point anyway. e: I will be pleasantly surprised if it doesn't need new headgaskets at that point, too
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Jul 18, 2012 01:51
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Hello Spaceman posted:
After thinking about it for a while, you are right. I think and hope the rest of the motor would be reliable at least. I hope they use iridium plugs.
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Jul 18, 2012 02:42
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 ^ Subaru technician.
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Jul 18, 2012 03:35
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Pretty much every FWD V6 (half of the cars on the road) need engine mounts undone to reach rear plugs, why are you whining about something that trivial? I bet someone will figure out a combination of wrenches and sockets to do that in record time anyway. And judging by the pictures so far, the accessories are very much accessible from either top or bottom, which is much more important then a set of once-in-50k-miles spark plugs.
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Jul 18, 2012 03:49
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The kids will just take hole saws to the unibody rails.
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Jul 18, 2012 04:01
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If I was able to replace the engine mounts on my focus in the parking lot of my apartment I figure I'll be able to do the same on an FR-S when replacing the spark plugs
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Jul 18, 2012 04:24
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Saw my first FR-S/BRZ in the wild last night on my street. Surprised to see it on the south side instead of downtown or north side of Chicago. It was the ultramarine blue that I think is galaxy blue silica on the BRZ, looked loving awesome (although it does sound a little anemic).
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Jul 18, 2012 21:48
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Jalopnik embarasses itself while breaking news of the first turbo kit fitted: http://jalopnik.com/5927631/the-first-turbocharged-subaru-brz-adds-13-horsepower
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Jul 20, 2012 14:55
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opengl128 posted:Just like the rear 3 plugs on FWD V6's. The only FWD V6 I've ever changed plugs on didn't require anything special to get to the rear plugs. I believe it was a Mercury Sable, circa 1999. You know, the oval ones with the Ford Vulvan in them before the change to coil-on-plug. There wasn't a lot of room, but it wasn't that bad.
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Jul 20, 2012 15:47
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CornHolio posted:the oval ones with the Ford Vulvan in them Well yeah, they're easier to work on once you've warmed them up.
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Jul 20, 2012 15:50
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kimbo305 posted:Well yeah, they're easier to work on once you've warmed them up. Wow, yeah, Freud would have a field day with that one...
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Jul 20, 2012 16:03
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CornHolio posted:Wow, yeah, Freud would have a field day with that one... Sometimes putting a 5/8" socket into a spark plug hole is just puttig a 5/8" socket into a spark plug hole.
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Jul 20, 2012 16:24
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So uhhhh have we talked about the accelerated performance turbo car putting down 200whp? It's expensive, but it's cool to see such options so early in the car's history.
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Jul 25, 2012 05:07
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Mat_Drinks posted:So uhhhh have we talked about the accelerated performance turbo car putting down 200whp? It's about a 50whp gain, so it's not too bad. $6k seems like a lot of money for that but I haven't exactly been keeping up on how much kits generally run. It's capable of more power too, so it has that going for it.
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Jul 25, 2012 05:48
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fknlo posted:It's capable of more power too, so it has that going for it. On race gas or E85 maybe, I can't imagine there's that much more room for power gains on pump gas - unless you don't mind playing Russian roulette with your engine every time you drive it. I would have to assume lower CR pistons will be a requirement before you can turn up the boost. Geoj fucked around with this message at 06:25 on Jul 25, 2012 |
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Jul 25, 2012 06:23
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So, I heard from guy I race with that his friend bought one and after the 1000 mile break in the ECU unlocks timing and suddenly you have like 10% more power. Is this a butt dyno claim, or actually true?
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Jul 25, 2012 07:32
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It's possible... The Alfa Romeo mito cloverleafs' ECU restricts the power to 80% until the 1,000 mile break-in mark crosses.
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Jul 25, 2012 08:39
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Brigdh posted:So, I heard from guy I race with that his friend bought one and after the 1000 mile break in the ECU unlocks timing and suddenly you have like 10% more power. Is this a butt dyno claim, or actually true? Doubtful, but I wouldnt rule out he simply noticed the engine breaking in. On a boxer engine especially, they do need a few kms to bed in well.
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Jul 25, 2012 11:13
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Brigdh posted:So, I heard from guy I race with that his friend bought one and after the 1000 mile break in the ECU unlocks timing and suddenly you have like 10% more power. Is this a butt dyno claim, or actually true? Could be, it's not without precedence. BMW is starting to do that with their bikes, the S1000RR has a 9000rpm limiter until you get the first service done, and the dealer plugs the ECU into their service module.
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Jul 25, 2012 12:31
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Geoj posted:On race gas or E85 maybe, I can't imagine there's that much more room for power gains on pump gas - unless you don't mind playing Russian roulette with your engine every time you drive it. I would have to assume lower CR pistons will be a requirement before you can turn up the boost. Yeah, you're replacing other things if you turn up the boost, but you don't have to buy another turbo! I think they claim it will be good up to 350hp.
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Jul 25, 2012 15:40
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Cat Terrist posted:Doubtful, but I wouldnt rule out he simply noticed the engine breaking in. On a boxer engine especially, they do need a few kms to bed in well. Would you be able to elaborate a bit more on how an engine breaking in would relate to more power/better response/etc? Especially how a boxer engine is unique in this regard. My car knowledge is weak in this regard, but I'd like to know more. Thanks
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Jul 25, 2012 23:41
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Brigdh posted:Would you be able to elaborate a bit more on how an engine breaking in would relate to more power/better response/etc? Especially how a boxer engine is unique in this regard. My car knowledge is weak in this regard, but I'd like to know more. Thanks There is no unique bed in procedure (altho drive it like you stole it but nothing over 4000 rpm is a bit different, which is what I've been told by the dealer to use) - but it's the nature of boxer motors to need a few more kms to achieve their best tolerances. To start from the beginning - When an engine is first built, even with today's much better tolerances, they all need a bit of time to take rough edges off the moving parts, the rough bits are still boody small but they are there. So the engine will need to wear them down to be smooth. These rough edges dont allow the engine to be quite as free spinning and drag on the moving parts. Thence, you develop less power, the engine isnt as happy to rev etc. Once the rough edges are gone, you have completely smooth bearings, cylinder walls etc so the engine now can produce it best. Which for a I or V format, occurs at around 1000 to 3000 kms. The fact htere's likely to be tiny metal shavings in the oil is the reason why you flush the oil at 1000 - 1500 kms for any motor. The difference between a boxer and a I or V is that there is a tendancy for a Boxer to bed in on the bottom side first and to take longer to fully achieve bedding in on the top - so you get your smooth cylinder wall at the bottom fairly quickly, but the top will take longer. So thence you have more resistance to parts moving for longer until the top surfaces achieve their bed in as well. Given tolerances and smoothness from the factory is much better than it used to be, the effect isnt as noticable but it's still there. Also, because there's more pressure on the bottom surfaces, there's more friction until it all smooths off than in a I or V, thence less performance. It was I believe first realised what a difference a well bedded in Boxer motor had over one with the standard bed in distance in about the 60's VW ran a bunch of Beetles in production car racing and the factory kept wondering why they got their asses handed to them by a privateer with a car with 20,000 kms. It turned out the engine with the kms on it was able to rev better and produce a handful more hp as a result. This became a resonably well known trick for Beetles and Porches - use engines that had 10,000 to 20,000 kms on them and you were 1-2 secs a lap quicker. It also applied to Subaru engines as well, up to the WRX it was always a good idea to use an engine with a few kms on it to get the best out of it.
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Jul 26, 2012 01:17
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So this happened: http://www.news.com.au/news/nissan-takes-aim-at-toyotas-86/story-fnejnq7a-1226435862694 quote:NISSAN bosses have finally given the green light for a compact sports car, referred to in-house as the "Mini-Z".
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Jul 27, 2012 06:42
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Cat Terrist posted:It also applied to Subaru engines as well, up to the WRX it was always a good idea to use an engine with a few kms on it to get the best out of it. Not a boxer but you could always pull a BMW and just weld the cylinder heads on and see how much boost it'll take after 100,000 miles.
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Jul 27, 2012 07:02
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Laserface posted:So this happened:  Wow. A mini-GT-R with 198hp with looks like that, at ~$24,000? And they are only considering bringing it to the US? Kenshin fucked around with this message at 07:29 on Jul 27, 2012 |
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Jul 27, 2012 07:27
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Kenshin posted:
What did the 86 start out as? 2400lbs, low 200s hp, low 20k USD? Though it certainly seems possible, given Juke capability and pricing.
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Jul 27, 2012 07:39
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That seems pretty ripe for Renault to stick an Alpine badge on.
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Jul 27, 2012 07:40
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Kenshin posted:
Finally MiniFoo, you are being a crafty consumer! Hello? I'll take eight! 
MiniFoo fucked around with this message at 07:48 on Jul 27, 2012 |
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Jul 27, 2012 07:44
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