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I haven't seen anyone talk about Badger's Freak Flex paints yet, but I went down to Coast Airbrush on Saturday and got a few to try out. They're the perfect airbrush paints. You can use them out of the pot, (that's how I tested them, I think I'll add a drop of thinner in the cup though.)and I even fooled around with brushing them on and it was really pleasant. Find them, they are awesome. Also, if my wife didn't throw it out I'll take a photo of the bag from the store, I get the impression fine scale hobbyists are not their target demographic.
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Nov 20, 2012 02:35
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MasterSlowPoke posted:I bought this compressor not too long ago and it seems pretty decent: That doesn't seem too bad, though it's out of stock and out of my price range. It's funny, I can find piston compressors for as low as $40, but diaphragm compressors are proving to be a real pain to find at a reasonable price.
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Nov 20, 2012 03:12
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Has anyone got the death world basing kit from GW yet?
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Nov 20, 2012 03:18
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Slimnoid posted:That doesn't seem too bad, though it's out of stock and out of my price range. It's funny, I can find piston compressors for as low as $40, but diaphragm compressors are proving to be a real pain to find at a reasonable price. Note sure how close you are on price, but I purchased this, which is basically the same as that badger model without the case and saves $30 or so: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0038D38AA/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00 I've used it fairly heavily, 3-5 days per week, for the last month or so. I'd recommend it provided you aren't looking for something that will let you airbrush more than 2 or 3 hours at a go - it does get fairly hot after a while. Also, it's not /quite/ quiet enough to carry on a normal conversation while it's pumping. Fortunately, with the tank attached it isn't on all the time.
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Nov 20, 2012 04:32
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Zhent posted:Note sure how close you are on price, but I purchased this, which is basically the same as that badger model without the case and saves $30 or so: Honestly I'm a bit of a cheapskate. If I can score a compressor for $80 or less I'd be perfectly happy. This doesn't seem all that bad, and I'm sorely tempted to pick this thing up because there's an HF a short distance away from my house (and added bonus of being something my dad could use too).
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Nov 20, 2012 04:55
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Slimnoid posted:Honestly I'm a bit of a cheapskate. If I can score a compressor for $80 or less I'd be perfectly happy. This doesn't seem all that bad, and I'm sorely tempted to pick this thing up because there's an HF a short distance away from my house (and added bonus of being something my dad could use too). I almost bought that HF compressor as well, but wanted something a little quieter so my wife could work in our office at the same time as I airbrush. The first link is basically the exact same compressor as mine, without the tank. It will work just fine hooked directly up to an airbrush, but the compressor will be running any time you are brushing, so you may find you need to take more breaks to let it cool down if it really heats up.
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Nov 20, 2012 05:02
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Slimnoid posted:Honestly I'm a bit of a cheapskate. If I can score a compressor for $80 or less I'd be perfectly happy. This doesn't seem all that bad, and I'm sorely tempted to pick this thing up because there's an HF a short distance away from my house (and added bonus of being something my dad could use too). I have the pancake version of that harbor freight compressor that I use with my airbrush, and it works fine, except as Zhent said, its loud. The tank is kind of small too, so it turns on pretty often. I'm fine with that, since my painting is done away from sleeping people.
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Nov 20, 2012 05:17
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Zhent posted:I almost bought that HF compressor as well, but wanted something a little quieter so my wife could work in our office at the same time as I airbrush. Quiet isn't really an issue here; I'd be running it during the day when no one else is around the house, so as long as it isn't as loud as a band of Noise Marines playing every Queen ballad at once it'll be fine. I'm probably going to pick up this particular compressor because I got a coupon that knocks it down to $40 which is a goddamn steal.
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Nov 20, 2012 05:21
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Dominion posted:Could be, I dont remember the recipes exactly. Soft Body Black: 20 drops Black Heavy Body Black: 60 drops Black Parchment: 40 Drops Flesh Tint Flesh Wash: 40 Drops Burnt Umber Dark Sepia: 40 Drops Sepia Blue: 40 Drops Rowney Blue Green: 40 Drops Dark Green Purple: 40 Drops Purple Lake .5oz Bottle measurements for Les' DIRTY WASHES (1:1 premixed matte medium and h2o-flow aid mix is added after the ink is counted out) STONE - 60 Raw Sienna : 20 Black (120, 40 for 1 ounce) RUBY - 60 Flame Red : 20 Black (120, 40 for 1 ounce) ARMOR WASH - 60 Sepia : 20 Black (120, 40 for 1 ounce) SAPPHIRE - 60 Rowney Blue : 20 Black (120, 40 for 1 ounce) BABY POOP - 60 Flame Orange : 20 Black (120, 40 for 1 ounce) ALGAE - 60 Dark Green : 20 Black (120, 40 for 1 ounce) SEWER WATER - 60 Burnt Umber : 20 Black (120, 40 for 1 ounce) AMETHYST - 60 Purple Lake : 20 Black (120, 40 for 1 ounce) CONCRETE - 60 Flesh Tint : 20 Black (120, 40 for 1 ounce) STORM CLOUD - 60 Turquoise : 20 Black (120, 40 for 1 ounce)
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Nov 20, 2012 10:01
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krushgroove posted:Super-Convenient Ink Recipes This is something that would be great to have in the OP.
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Nov 20, 2012 10:21
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Here's the Google Docs link with pictures to show what the washes look like over white primer: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1i_MIKn29tTwMoYK3RdMlfPu0DTUMdgVu2Ao-9Zn5To8/edit
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Nov 20, 2012 10:32
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Aranan posted:So I'm slowly catching up on my two year absence from the hobby... and apparently Devlan Mud / Baddab Black are gone? Oh god, how do I paint?! Making your own seems cool and all but seriously, Agrax Earthshade and Nuln Oil are definitely great washes. As good or better indeed.
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Nov 20, 2012 11:03
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I think it comes down to how much you paint, and whether you can be bothered. I like making my own terrain rather than buy it, so I'm more inclined than others to make my own washes. Here's approximately what I've spent on the various materials to make washes: Liquitex Flow Aid 118ml £7 Liquitex Matte Medium 237ml £7.27 Distilled Water (I just use tap water) FW Acrylic Inks £4 each 50 50ml squeeze bottles £5.50 so 55p each (you can get just 5, 10, 20, etc. bottles) (I've ignored shipping costs, assuming you have an arts supply store you can get to) A bottle of Matte Medium will do almost 10 50ml bottles because you're filling the bottle halfway with it, and to use up all the Matte Medium you'd use about half of the bottle of Flow Aid. The inks have hundreds and hundreds of drops in them but let's call it £2 or 1/2 bottle to use make up the 'hard body' or Nuln Oil equivalent. So that's roughly: Liquitex Flow Aid - using half £3.50 Liquitex Matte Medium - using all of it £7.27 water FW Acrylic Inks - couple hundred drops £2 So £12 or about $17 for half a liter of a dark wash. Put it in a re-used jar if you want, or spend another £11 to get 100 50ml dropper bottles (keep in mind that's about 3 times the size of a Vallejo paint bottle). £23 for 500ml, or £12 if you go the jar route, which also allows dipping. You get 12ml of Nuln Oil in a pot/jar for £2.30, so that's about £96 or $152 if you wanted to get the same amount (not that you would, this is just a pricing example). I think 12ml of the homemade recipe comes to 29p, or 55p if you add in and spread out the cost of the squeeze bottles. Someone please check my math!  Of course, who actually needs half a liter of miniature paint wash? The advantage is that you can get a couple different colors of inks to make mixes and whatnot, and if you do this over time, like any artist you'll have a bunch of different inks you can call upon when you need to make a new mix. krushgroove fucked around with this message at 14:18 on Nov 20, 2012 |
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Nov 20, 2012 11:47
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Slimnoid posted:Quiet isn't really an issue here; I'd be running it during the day when no one else is around the house, so as long as it isn't as loud as a band of Noise Marines playing every Queen ballad at once it'll be fine. I'm probably going to pick up this particular compressor because I got a coupon that knocks it down to $40 which is a goddamn steal. That is what I have. One thing to note is that you'll probably want a separate air regulator (I use this) since you can't get very precise adjustments with the one on that compressor. I usually leave the one on the compressor at like 40 and the second regulator between 5-10, depending on what I'm doing.
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Nov 20, 2012 17:20
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ineptmule posted:Making your own seems cool and all but seriously, Agrax Earthshade and Nuln Oil are definitely great washes. As good or better indeed. Do you use premade washes directly from the bottle? Is that what the mix is supposed to be like? This is all a small sample size but I have used P3, Reaper, and Citadel paints so far. P3 seems good out of the pot no matter what I use. Reaper needs to be shaken a bunch but seems good out of the pot. Citadel has a hugely varying composition from pot to pot which goes from dry as gently caress to perfect excepting their shades and glazes, which seem great. I have to thin them a lot but I'm not sure if I should be thinning them in a bottle or if thinning them on my palette is good enough. Either way I'm sick and loving tired of paints being in pots anyway so I'll probably transfer every paint I have over to a dropper. I've spilled seriously like 5 bucks worth of paint in my first week. Edit: Also will Simple Green cut through Testors Dullcote and completely strip a finished mini or will I be irreversibly loving up a model if I do this? signalnoise fucked around with this message at 18:59 on Nov 20, 2012 |
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Nov 20, 2012 18:56
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Basing question:  Here you can see the beginnings of my Chaos army. From left to right: Cultist, Chosen, Kharn, Huron and Abaddon. My question is about the height of the cork basing. I'm trying to go for an obvious height categorization: the higher the base, the tougher the dude. So as you can see, the cultists are sitting on their base - they'll get fine sand and shredded cork bits for texturing. Standard Chaos Marines will go on 1 layer of cork, elites (Chosen, Berzerkers, Plague Marines, etc.) will go on 2 layers. The Terminators are on 2 layers, and I think most or all HQ units like the Chaos Lord, etc., will go on 2 layers too. Now, for the named HQ units, I want to stick them on 3 layers, which works for Abaddon since he's got a 40mm base, but I'm not sure about Huron and Kharn with their 25mm base. What's the opinion of the thread? Does using different layers work for the different points costs of units? I'm not sure what color I'll do the bases in, either - dark brown maybe? I have black with grey highlights on my Dark Eldar - but they'll all have bits of shredded cork and little grass tufts. krushgroove fucked around with this message at 19:00 on Nov 20, 2012 |
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Nov 20, 2012 18:57
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The cork overhangs are going to be a pain in the dick when you start gaming with them. poo poo breaks off all the time.
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Nov 20, 2012 19:18
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Is corkboard pretty much the best way to go if I wanted to make volcanic bases?
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Nov 20, 2012 20:46
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signalnoise posted:Edit: Also will Simple Green cut through Testors Dullcote and completely strip a finished mini or will I be irreversibly loving up a model if I do this? Simple green will strip through Dullcote.
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Nov 20, 2012 21:45
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Purgey posted:Is corkboard pretty much the best way to go if I wanted to make volcanic bases? It's quick and looks great, but another option is air drying clay or epoxy putty. Spread it all over the surface of the base, scribe your lava channels into it and then roll a pumice stone over it for texture.
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Nov 20, 2012 23:14
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Preface: I've never painted miniatures before. I'm looking for a tool that can "pinstripe" the side of my new X-Wing miniatures. The factory ships have a red scheme that I want to change to make my ships more readily identifiable. I also have very shaky hands when working on very small things like this:  Any advice is greatly appreciated!
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Nov 20, 2012 23:52
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Honestly that looks pretty rad for never having painted before.
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Nov 21, 2012 00:11
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Loaf32 posted:The cork overhangs are going to be a pain in the dick when you start gaming with them. poo poo breaks off all the time. Slate chips and texture paint over them would work for nice shapes with overhangs and such.
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Nov 21, 2012 00:24
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CyberLord XP posted:Honestly that looks pretty rad for never having painted before. They come like that, he wants to change the red.
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Nov 21, 2012 01:05
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CyberLord XP posted:Honestly that looks pretty rad for never having painted before. It comes from the factory that way - he wants to change the pinstripe's color. SERPUS, I would suggest trying to mask off the parts you don't want painted with tiny strips of (painter's or masking) tape. You can either use separate pieces (and have to worry about getting them parallel) or use a hobby knife to cut a rectangular hole in a single piece of tape. Even if it takes you 5 tries to cut the right sized pinstripe, you only have to paint it on once. I'm not 100% sure that masking would even work with figures that small and delicate, but that's what I'd try if I really wanted to change things.
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Nov 21, 2012 01:05
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CyberLord XP posted:Honestly that looks pretty rad for never having painted before. They're pretty rad for pre-painted minis. And the game is boss.
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Nov 21, 2012 01:09
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SERPUS posted:Preface: I've never painted miniatures before. Depending on the colour you want, you could use a small tipped marker pen/fineliner to go over the red. Some colours will cover better than others though and shakey hands might make things difficult. Alternatively, you could get some tiny width masking tape (it goes down to 0.5mm width!) and mask off the section you want to paint then have at it. That would give you a bit more buffer for wandering paintbrushes. Then you just need a brush and a pot of paint of the colour you like but that is probably more fiddly that it is worth. If you don't need to mark the actual ship to identify it, perhaps you could do something with the base? The ships come with card number markers that slot in the base by the stand, so maybe you could make a custom one of those? I've done more work on Necromunda scenery, here are some pallets and barrels. These are a small selection of the dozen or so that I made.   And a WIP of a trenchcoat ganger (Heresy Minatures) I've had this pose in mind for a while  
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Nov 21, 2012 01:21
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Hellbeard posted:Thanks for the tip. I'll never not get freaked out by those armatures.
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Nov 21, 2012 02:03
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Pilgrimski posted:I've had this pose in mind for a while This is totally tubular.
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Nov 21, 2012 02:11
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Pilgrimski posted:I've had this pose in mind for a while What is Necromunda? John Woo Delaques.  PS: Awesome, awesome terrain. Mad jealous.
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Nov 21, 2012 03:18
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can someone recommend a store other than thewarstore for vallejo model air paints? I was going to order some, but 4 of the 7 colors I wanted are out of stock.
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Nov 21, 2012 07:32
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Fauxtool posted:can someone recommend a store other than thewarstore for vallejo model air paints? I was going to order some, but 4 of the 7 colors I wanted are out of stock. Miniature Market? Fake Edit: I ordered a lot of stuff from the War Store recently and quite a few things were out of stock which were just filled today. Real Edit: Derp, Miniature Market doesn't do singles. Try Brookhurst. VoodooXT fucked around with this message at 07:38 on Nov 21, 2012 |
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Nov 21, 2012 07:35
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VoodooXT posted:Miniature Market? cool brookhurst is in driving distance to me, I'll try and check them out. I think I should wait for BF before ordering anything though. Maybe thewarstore will get more by then
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Nov 21, 2012 07:47
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http://www.hfminis.co.uk/shop?category=accessories~paints-%252d-coat-d%27arms Hasslefree minis just began stocking Coat D'arms paints in their online store. I know a lot of people like them. I never used the old GW paints, are they good?
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Nov 21, 2012 18:14
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Are there any good ways to get cyanoacrylate off your skin? My hands look like zombie hands, and the slickness is making me all butterfingers.
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Nov 21, 2012 18:34
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Bionic Psyker posted:I never used the old GW paints, are they good?
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Nov 21, 2012 18:39
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signalnoise posted:Are there any good ways to get cyanoacrylate off your skin? My hands look like zombie hands, and the slickness is making me all butterfingers. Finger nail polish remover, gets right rid of it.
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Nov 21, 2012 18:59
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Thank you so so so much.
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Nov 21, 2012 19:03
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Fauxtool posted:cool brookhurst is in driving distance to me, I'll try and check them out. I think I should wait for BF before ordering anything though. Maybe thewarstore will get more by then Brookhurst's selection of Vallejo Model Air is pretty sparse. I was just there on Saturday. If you're driving distance to them though I recommend Coast Airbrush in Anaheim. They carry the badger freak flex airbrush paints and I actually prefer them.
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Nov 21, 2012 19:09
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Bionic Psyker posted:http://www.hfminis.co.uk/shop?category=accessories~paints-%252d-coat-d%27arms The Troll Trader's online store carries Coat d'arms and does free worldwide shipping on orders larger than £10.
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Nov 21, 2012 19:40
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