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I'm late to the party, but I thought this was funny and unfortunately true. This is pretty much me on the VFR. GODDAMN STUBBY LEGS! 5' 7" with a 29" inseam...
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Feb 21, 2013 01:05
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So i'm going to look at(Most likely buy oh god I am terrible at haggling i'll just give him more money) a '95 DR650 tomorrow. Less than 8k miles, guy wants $2,500 for it. It looks really nice. Can I be a cool dude now?
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Feb 21, 2013 01:08
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Chairon posted:So i'm going to look at(Most likely buy oh god I am terrible at haggling i'll just give him more money) a '95 DR650 tomorrow. Less than 8k miles, guy wants $2,500 for it. It looks really nice. Seriously just suggest a lower price. 99% of people will cave in at LEAST a little bit. You'd be amazed how far people are willing to go if you just ask. It's even better if you get a little more forward with them and suggest a much lower price and don't mind having the balls to ask another human being to lower their price. Most people lock up and get awkward when the money comes out but if you can manage to play it cool you can usually come away pretty well off. Worst case scenario is you pay asking price (which is always high). Don't be shy rejecting the offer they come back with, stick to your guns. If they insist on their asking price and become indignant that you offered lower make it clear that it's a LOT cheaper to only buy gas on the way home than it is to buy his bike. Even if you do leave, give it a bit of time and hang out in the area and wait for a call. If it doesn't come soon, shoot him a text or something and ask him "you sure you don't want it taken off your hands?" This works too well. Try to envision yourself selling the bike. You're expecting that people are going to come lowball you so you artificially set the price higher so that after haggling you get what you really wanted out of it. Occasionally you'll get lucky with a guy that will pay full asking price. Don't be that guy. Once you understand all this stuff it also makes selling a lot easier as you know how to kind of work people into paying what you'd like. It's scary how easy people get glassy eyed when they are about to get a new bike. Too many people get taken because they "can't live without" the bike they found.
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Feb 21, 2013 01:26
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JP Money posted:
Who has two thumbs and is that guy? This guy! Seriously though, i'll take that into consideration. Also my dad is going with me(He needs my help with something up where the bike is) and hes a much better haggler than I am. It won't be the end of the world if I don't buy this, theres also an old XT350 for sale that looks pretty nice.
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Feb 21, 2013 01:42
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If you have one, bring a friend and have them hold on to the cash/checkbook while you're checking the bike out. Don't forget haggling works both ways.
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Feb 21, 2013 01:43
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snail posted:The manual claims normal unleaded was fine, but who knows, it could have been a grey import tuning thing. Given the price difference for a tank of fuel was a dollar or two, it was going to cost more to figure out why my MC22 and those of my friends all got significantly more range on premium, than it cost in fuel. The bike still ran fine on normal unleaded meaning my cheap brother would buy it. I'd have to switch to reserve at 110km/h on the highway as it started spluttering as the tank ran dry. Isn't the MC22 a Japanese domestic bike? Does Japan have a different octane rating for "regular" than America? Just curious.
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Feb 21, 2013 02:17
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Xovaan posted:Isn't the MC22 a Japanese domestic bike? Does Japan have a different octane rating for "regular" than America? Just curious. Regular=91 octane. Premium is 95, 96 (now obsolete and unobtainable), or 98 depending on where you go.
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Feb 21, 2013 02:36
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Good point. It's not the same for all of America. Depends on the altitude I think. Around here (Atlanta, GA) it's 87, 89, and 93. My bike specifies 90, so I have to use 93.
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Feb 21, 2013 02:50
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It also depends if you use RON or (RON + MON)/2. Japan (I think) uses the former, US the latter and it'll read about 5 lower.
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Feb 21, 2013 03:02
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Australia/Japan use a different measurement to the US, Premium 98 in australia is 90 on the US Scale. 95 is becoming harder to find around my area too, a lot of places are either E10 or Premium and the minimum for my bike is apparently 95
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Feb 21, 2013 03:07
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So now instead of complaining about all the cool bikes they get in Japan and we never get to ride I have one in the garage...yeah I bought it. Carbs need a rebuild which might be tricky since apparently they (Mikuni BWS27) wasn't on many bikes but whatever, new battery, clean drain the tank and it should be ready to start. Toss some tires on it and I'll have a strange 250 to ride around. DID pipe so I'm guessing loud. Guy is interested in buying it back once I have it running even though I mentioned I'll ride it for a few months then list it for >3x what I paid  He also has a set of tires in the crawl space he will bring to work sometime and put next to my bike for me to have. Motorcycle people are awesome.I can't be trusted with garage space and money. NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 03:42 on Feb 21, 2013 |
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Feb 21, 2013 03:39
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NitroSpazzz posted:So now instead of complaining about all the cool bikes they get in Japan and we never get to ride I have one in the garage...yeah I bought it. Carbs need a rebuild which might be tricky since apparently they (Mikuni BWS27) wasn't on many bikes but whatever, new battery, clean drain the tank and it should be ready to start. Toss some tires on it and I'll have a strange 250 to ride around. Sweet! Has it got 4 individual carbs, or two double-barrels? 4-pot brakes or sliding calipers?
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Feb 21, 2013 06:53
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JP Money posted:Seriously just suggest a lower price. 99% of people will cave in at LEAST a little bit. You'd be amazed how far people are willing to go if you just ask. It's even better if you get a little more forward with them and suggest a much lower price and don't mind having the balls to ask another human being to lower their price. I love bartering. If I'm selling I'd allmost rather get a buyer who is a good haggler than someone who just pays asking price. I have a few little things I do when buying, especially motorcycles. One, I never pay asking price. If I'm selling I never ask only what I need to get out of it and neither does anyone else. Two, I always shoot low on my first offer with the line "I'd be a definite buyer today at x amount". This allows you to put your offer out there with little pressure on either party. Also I never want to be the first one to put the "real" number out there. His lowest price off hand just may be lower than I was gonna offer up anyway. Third, if I can't make a deal work on something I want and don't really gotta have, leave an offer of about half to two thirds what the seller wants and leave em with your number. Tell them to call if they change their mind. Some people will call back, and when they do now you have the power.
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Feb 21, 2013 07:21
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NitroSpazzz posted:So now instead of complaining about all the cool bikes they get in Japan and we never get to ride I have one in the garage...yeah I bought it. Carbs need a rebuild which might be tricky since apparently they (Mikuni BWS27) wasn't on many bikes but whatever, new battery, clean drain the tank and it should be ready to start. Toss some tires on it and I'll have a strange 250 to ride around. Tell him to keep the tires honestly. Unless you can verify they're fresh they're probably a waste due to dry rot and stuff. Some might argue that on a 250 you can get away with worse tires but gently caress that. I don't know the tire sizes on that thing but they probably won't cost that much. Get some fresh rubber that you have a bit of confidence in as older tires tend to harden up and dryrot after sitting for years.
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Feb 21, 2013 07:23
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I'm finding my issue with haggling is that it's a 3-4 hour trip to most any bike I'd want, and I don't want to commit to buying unseen. In this New England weather I'd also have to rent a truck to bring the bike back, which is a bit of a commitment itself. Sellers seem reluctant to want to haggle long distance, and understandably so. On the plus side this has talked me out of more than one impulse buy.
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Feb 21, 2013 07:53
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Have I been riding too much if I'm watching someone else's youtube video called "Loko on 22" and by the 2nd turn I'm thinking "Where is this on route 22?" and by the 3rd turn I know "Oh, it's not 22, it's 10."
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Feb 21, 2013 09:12
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I've been kicking around the idea of doing a Big American Road Trip by motorcycle in the time between when my current work contract expires (next July) and I go to start graduate school. I'd be getting back to the US the last week of August, and would be leaving for grad school in late January/early Feb, most likely. I'd like to visit friends in Vancouver/Seattle, San Francisco, Arizona/New Mexico, and also up in the northeast. Thinking may be a fly-and-ride from the west coast is the way to do it. I guess late October is sorta my cutoff for decent riding weather? I'm in the dark here, originally from Florida 
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Feb 21, 2013 10:36
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Pompous Rhombus posted:I've been kicking around the idea of doing a Big American Road Trip by motorcycle in the time between when my current work contract expires (next July) and I go to start graduate school. I'd be getting back to the US the last week of August, and would be leaving for grad school in late January/early Feb, most likely. I'd like to visit friends in Vancouver/Seattle, San Francisco, Arizona/New Mexico, and also up in the northeast. Thinking may be a fly-and-ride from the west coast is the way to do it. I guess late October is sorta my cutoff for decent riding weather? Slavvy posted:Sweet! Has it got 4 individual carbs, or two double-barrels? 4-pot brakes or sliding calipers? JP Money posted:Tell him to keep the tires honestly. Unless you can verify they're fresh they're probably a waste due to dry rot and stuff. Some might argue that on a 250 you can get away with worse tires but gently caress that. I may toss a picture in the post your ride thread this weekend if I get some time to work on it or I may wait until I have it running and cleaned up. Just realized my first incline 4 and first bike with fairings...well at least that I'm holding onto for longer than 24 hours.
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Feb 21, 2013 12:23
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NitroSpazzz posted:Two carbs, dual piston single disc front and single piston rear. My carb parts will be useless to you so, the bandit had 4 individual tiny carbs.
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Feb 21, 2013 18:40
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Snowdens Secret posted:I'm finding my issue with haggling is that it's a 3-4 hour trip to most any bike I'd want, and I don't want to commit to buying unseen. In this New England weather I'd also have to rent a truck to bring the bike back, which is a bit of a commitment itself. Sellers seem reluctant to want to haggle long distance, and understandably so. On the plus side this has talked me out of more than one impulse buy. Yeah that's tough. I don't try to haggle over the phone unless it's after they call me back. When you do that you're making a deal that is too easily negated, and you're under informed as you can't look at the bike. When you're right there face to face once a deal is struck pay up immediately so it's a done deal, no quitsys. At most I'll ask the seller if he will deal on it or is the price locked. I also won't deal over the phone much as a seller because you're wasting ammo so to speak. If I list a bike for 1200$ I probably want a grand. If I agree to a grand on the phone when they come see that it could use a newer tire, or its got a few scratches or whatever now you're negotiating from 1000$ not 1200$. You have to be willing to walk away and that's harder to do when you've driven a few hours to see it.
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Feb 21, 2013 18:51
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Pompous Rhombus posted:I've been kicking around the idea of doing a Big American Road Trip by motorcycle in the time between when my current work contract expires (next July) and I go to start graduate school. I'd be getting back to the US the last week of August, and would be leaving for grad school in late January/early Feb, most likely. I'd like to visit friends in Vancouver/Seattle, San Francisco, Arizona/New Mexico, and also up in the northeast. Thinking may be a fly-and-ride from the west coast is the way to do it. I guess late October is sorta my cutoff for decent riding weather? I am actually planning the same thing after this semester of school, starting in Florida and heading west until I hit the pacific. I have a big advantage though that I have no real time constraints. I have been looking for information on things I will really need, aside from my AAA card and some cash.
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Feb 21, 2013 18:57
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Pompous Rhombus posted:I've been kicking around the idea of doing a Big American Road Trip by motorcycle in the time between when my current work contract expires (next July) and I go to start graduate school. I'd be getting back to the US the last week of August, and would be leaving for grad school in late January/early Feb, most likely. I'd like to visit friends in Vancouver/Seattle, San Francisco, Arizona/New Mexico, and also up in the northeast. Thinking may be a fly-and-ride from the west coast is the way to do it. I guess late October is sorta my cutoff for decent riding weather? Weather is fine here in Cali year round, as long as you stay off the grapevine and stick to the coast. I'd probably try and start by traveling into the northeast, and then drop down to winter ride in SF, down the 1 to LA, and then out into AZ and New Mexico from there.
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Feb 21, 2013 19:35
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Bit of a long shot, but does anyone know of a reputable place for motorcycle rental in Cape Town, South Africa? I'm looking to do an off road day tour of the Overberg and am trying not to get robbed or have my bike break down and get eaten by a lion in the middle of nowhere.
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Feb 21, 2013 23:00
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Welp, it's official, I'm doing ROT rally in Austin this spring. It's 2200 miles from my front door, so I have two weeks scheduled off work and eight Best Western reservations set for the trip to and from. It's still over 3 months away but I'm pretty much vibrating with excitement. Stops include Baker City Oregon, Salt Lake City UT, Durango CO, and Roswell NM. I wonder if I'll be able to buy pot in CO by then... Next step, I guess, will be to make sure the Buell is ready for the trip - it needs timing checked, primary chain tension checked, a good fuel/spark remap, and a spare belt at minimum. I intend to NOT bog out and stop running at 7,000 feet on this trip and maybe do >40mpg. Oh and I'm adding a whole bunch of leather fringe, so prepare to hate away when I get pics of that poo poo. Anybody else have massive touring plans coming together for the summer?
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Feb 22, 2013 00:52
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Is everyone just taking the same idea of "no jobs anyway, why not ride around the country at random?" that I am using as my excuse? I guess my Buell will be about ready for an oil change and possibly new tires by the time I leave, I still need to get decent luggage, I would love a set of hard bags, but most estimates come in at nearly $1000 for the racks and saddlebags, and that is a bit steep.
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Feb 22, 2013 02:03
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ReverendCode posted:I would love a set of hard bags, but most estimates come in at nearly $1000 for the racks and saddlebags, and that is a bit steep. What model Buell? I got Happy Trail racks, Caribou/Pelican 1550 boxes for panniers, and Home Depot mounting solution on the Uly... all said and done about $600 into it.
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Feb 22, 2013 03:24
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ReverendCode posted:Is everyone just taking the same idea of "no jobs anyway, why not ride around the country at random?" that I am using as my excuse? Find some used ones on Craigslist and buy a mig and pipe bender if you have the time. Otherwise it's a racket, I lost one of the cases on my R1100GS and people wanted hundreds and hundreds for used ones.
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Feb 22, 2013 16:53
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clutchpuck posted:What model Buell? I got Happy Trail racks, Caribou/Pelican 1550 boxes for panniers, and Home Depot mounting solution on the Uly... all said and done about $600 into it. I have a lighting long, which I guess is the same length as the uly, but with different mounting points, I have been looking around, and I am not sure if they even make racks for my bike, which is annoying since it is supposed to be the step between the xb12s and the xb12x.
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Feb 22, 2013 17:17
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A ventura rack might make a good starting point for a luggage situation on a Lightning. http://www.ventura-bike.com/fitments.aspx?modelid=86
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Feb 22, 2013 17:35
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kenny powerzzz posted:Yeah that's tough. I don't try to haggle over the phone unless it's after they call me back. When you do that you're making a deal that is too easily negated, and you're under informed as you can't look at the bike. When you're right there face to face once a deal is struck pay up immediately so it's a done deal, no quitsys. At most I'll ask the seller if he will deal on it or is the price locked. I also won't deal over the phone much as a seller because you're wasting ammo so to speak. If I list a bike for 1200$ I probably want a grand. If I agree to a grand on the phone when they come see that it could use a newer tire, or its got a few scratches or whatever now you're negotiating from 1000$ not 1200$. You have to be willing to walk away and that's harder to do when you've driven a few hours to see it. I don't mind haggling over the phone, but only after I've seen the bike, never before. I often find silence to be a good negotiator; letting the other party talk their way to the real price. Then you know how much you can move and whether or not you want the deal.
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Feb 22, 2013 18:13
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Can anybody give me an idea of what the gas station situation would be like along highways in New Mexico and west Texas? I hear there can be a long way between towns out there. I'm definitely making a gas itinerary so we don't overextend a tank and get stuck in the desert. With a 120 mi range, would it be a good idea to bring a spare tank?
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Feb 22, 2013 19:16
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clutchpuck posted:Can anybody give me an idea of what the gas station situation would be like along highways in New Mexico and west Texas? I hear there can be a long way between towns out there. I'm definitely making a gas itinerary so we don't overextend a tank and get stuck in the desert. With a 120 mi range, would it be a good idea to bring a spare tank? I'd look into the MSR fuel bottles or something similar, always a good idea to have spare fuel.
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Feb 22, 2013 19:26
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clutchpuck posted:Welp, it's official, I'm doing ROT rally in Austin this spring. It's 2200 miles from my front door, so I have two weeks scheduled off work and eight Best Western reservations set for the trip to and from. It's still over 3 months away but I'm pretty much vibrating with excitement. Stops include Baker City Oregon, Salt Lake City UT, Durango CO, and Roswell NM. Have you been to a ROT rally? I've been in town during one of them and nobody where's gear and everybody is on a Harley. It's loving awesome. Some of them even trailer their bikes to Austin and ride around town then trailer them back to wherever they came from. I'll be back in Houston around that time. I should go and we could have a mini goonmeet or something!
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Feb 22, 2013 19:30
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Here is a nice website which describes the Canadian 'Top 5 most stolen motorcycles'. Actually, it really only lists what the top 5 brands of most stolen motorcycles are. Can you guess what the top 5 brands of most stolen motorcycles are?  http://www.autonet.ca/auto-news/motorcycle/2013/02/21/top-five-most-stolen-motorcycles/ To be fair, I guess it names a few bikes...
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Feb 22, 2013 19:52
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XYLOPAGUS posted:Have you been to a ROT rally? I've been in town during one of them and nobody where's gear and everybody is on a Harley. It's loving awesome. Some of them even trailer their bikes to Austin and ride around town then trailer them back to wherever they came from. I haven't been to a ROT rally but I've done Sturgis three times since 2008, so I have a pretty good idea of what to expect from the crowd. We even have some friends coming down from West Virginia trailering their Softail and Ural, so it'll really be the full meal deal. Also, don't you mean Shackmeet... wait what site is this?
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Feb 22, 2013 20:02
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clutchpuck posted:Next step, I guess, will be to make sure the Buell is ready for the trip - it needs timing checked, primary chain tension checked, a good fuel/spark remap, and a spare belt at minimum. I intend to NOT bog out and stop running at 7,000 feet on this trip and maybe do >40mpg. Oh and I'm adding a whole bunch of leather fringe, so prepare to hate away when I get pics of that poo poo. What kind of a map are you on now? I've got one the first owner had made for him on the dyno but the tuner disabled the o2 sensors, which I think is odd because the guy is supposed to be really good, yet it seems like a workaround. I'm considering going back to the standard Buell race map so maybe my mileage will improve, the very best I've gotten is 42MPG and if I do stoplight sprints around town it drops to 35.5. ReverendCode posted:I have a lighting long Sweet, what year/color? I've got a black 2007. Can't help you with the hard bags though.
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Feb 22, 2013 20:05
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High Protein posted:What kind of a map are you on now? I've got one the first owner had made for him on the dyno but the tuner disabled the o2 sensors, which I think is odd because the guy is supposed to be really good, yet it seems like a workaround. I'm considering going back to the standard Buell race map so maybe my mileage will improve, the very best I've gotten is 42MPG and if I do stoplight sprints around town it drops to 35.5. Mine is the same way - dyno map, learn mode disabled. My ceiling is 7000ft, which is why I need to get it redone. I get about the same economy as you - 55mph, right hand in boring mode I MIGHT get just over 40, but usually it's 33-36mpg. From what I've read and heard, while the EFI setup is conveniently re-mappable out of the box, it's a chore to do it - bike has to be off and you can only read O2 and tune accurately on the rear cylinder up to 2007 because it only has one O2 sensor; if you use a probe in the tailpipe, you don't get a good reading for either specific cylinder, which is necessary for a good tune due to the differences in temperature between each cylinder. Result is you get tuners who are used to working with Power Commanders which do not need the bike to be turned off with wideband O2s already built in, just kind of giving up on it. There are also some fiddly specifics on how to set up the maps - for example, with a stock narrow band O2, in the learn mode region (something like <20% throttle, 2500-4000rpm) it HAS TO be tuned to stoich or the whole learn mode thing won't work - it can and should be tuned richer outside of that map area. Tuners who don't know that will target richer like 13.4-13.8:1 through the learn mode region as well. Because the NB O2 can only read over/under stoich, the computer will see a rich condition and the learn mode logic, whose purpose is to adjust the entire mapping for atmospheric conditions, will remove fuel from the whole map, essentially undoing tuning. My plan is to put the standard Buell race maps on which do have an intentional fueling hole in the learn mode area, re-enable learn mode, and take it over the moutains to shake it down. If it needs adjustment from there, I'll explore options. I have a friend with a 2007 Uly that I remapped for him with the race map and it was just about perfect. Then he bought a EBR preprogrammed ECM and there was pretty much no tangible improvement, so I have optimism about the race map.
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Feb 22, 2013 20:44
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Yup, learn mode can screw up a map that's not stoich in the learn region and yeah it's also worse with there being only one sensor, in the process of the rear being dynamically adjusted to stoich the front could be leaned out. It is possible to clamp the adaptive fuel value to 100% and leave on the o2 sensor so you can at least cruise in closed loop, but I'd rather just have a map that works no matter the conditions. If that costs a few HP so be it.
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Feb 22, 2013 21:06
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Yep, and it shouldn't even cost any horses to run a legit map. Nowhere in learn mode area will you me making anywhere near max power and as soon as you add throttle or rev it up, you're out of that fuel hole. e: I've actually listened to two arguments about which way to tune the front - richer or leaner. The leaner philosophy is based on it hanging out in the air getting more cooling, so you can get away with that. The richer philosophy is along the line of what you mentioned; with the AFV (I'll never not picture Bob Saget when I read that) being dynamically adjusted, it could lean out the front too much. I lean more toward the richer-in-front philosophy. I think they come tuned leaner in front from the factory, which might explain why people get weird rough running issues with stock Buells. clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 21:20 on Feb 22, 2013 |
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Feb 22, 2013 21:12
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Well switching to the stock race map might decrease performance somewhat as it wasn't a map made Especially For The Bike (and local gasoline) but then, is it really still the same bike a couple of thousand miles later? Anyway, I emailed the guy that tuned mine about it and he was being both annoying and cagey about it ("I'm the expert and I know what I'm doing, etc") but in the end his logic was that disabling the sensor would lead to a clearer failure mode when dealing with intake/exhaust leaks, instead of it trying to compensate and then being way off if the sensor were to fail. Seems like BS to me really, the only way I see that could conceivably matter is if your intake's been leaking for ages, making the sensor adjust and hide the issue, and then it suddenly falls off the ports and makes your engine explode from being so lean.
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Feb 22, 2013 21:40
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