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What brand of oil paints do you guys use? I'm still experimenting with pushing my shadows and highlights, but I think I want to pick up some oils to help speed up the actual edge highlighting and shading.
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Mar 18, 2013 21:55
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Does anyone use agitators in their VMC paint pots? Any suggestions on a non-rusting bead or something like Reaper used to do? My paints have been stored tip down for a long time and now I have a ton of goo up in the top. I'm hoping that putting an agitator in the bottle will help so I don't have to go in and clean each one out...
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Mar 18, 2013 22:00
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BULBASAUR posted:What brand of oil paints do you guys use? I'm still experimenting with pushing my shadows and highlights, but I think I want to pick up some oils to help speed up the actual edge highlighting and shading. I use Windor & Newton Water Mixable Oils. I like them but they are the only kind I have used so no real comparison.
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Mar 18, 2013 22:00
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berzerkmonkey posted:Does anyone use agitators in their VMC paint pots? Any suggestions on a non-rusting bead or something like Reaper used to do? My paints have been stored tip down for a long time and now I have a ton of goo up in the top. I'm hoping that putting an agitator in the bottle will help so I don't have to go in and clean each one out... The easiest thing to do is probably to drop a couple bits of pewter or white metal in there. I don't know many gamers who don't have some scrap pewter laying around like base tabs or stuff you cut off for conversions. It's a good choice because it won't rust and screw up your paint.
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Mar 18, 2013 22:14
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berzerkmonkey posted:Does anyone use agitators in their VMC paint pots? Any suggestions on a non-rusting bead or something like Reaper used to do? My paints have been stored tip down for a long time and now I have a ton of goo up in the top. I'm hoping that putting an agitator in the bottle will help so I don't have to go in and clean each one out... I bought a bag of 4mm faceted glass beads, 200 for a couple quid, and just drop one in every new bottle of paint I get. I have so many I put them in my wash bottles as well.
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Mar 18, 2013 22:33
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BULBASAUR posted:What brand of oil paints do you guys use? I'm still experimenting with pushing my shadows and highlights, but I think I want to pick up some oils to help speed up the actual edge highlighting and shading. I use mostly Winsor and Newton artist oils, but I had them from canvas painting, and they're almost certainly overkill in terms of pigment quality/density for miniature work.
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Mar 19, 2013 03:58
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Let me just iterate how awesome these Italeri paints are. The black is really really matte. Light just falls off it. The flat orange is really rich, more of an autumn orange than a burning orange. http://www.italeri.com/colori.asp
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Mar 19, 2013 04:26
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Dear you guys, If it would not be too much trouble will you please help me by taking pictures of some popular 28mm miniature figures next to a ruler to measure their height? Metric preferable. I mean GW, reaper, infinity, warmachine and whatever you got. I'm having some reservations about my scale that I'm currently working in. I think it's a cool scale but on the other hand I want to see what the market is currently like because it will probably be beneficial to "fit in". Thank you, you guys.
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Mar 19, 2013 09:37
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I think making sure your models fit with the current range of kits is pretty important - it's hard enough for an established company to release a new game/concept/genre/scale, so up to a point it's a good idea to stick with the status quo. I also have a question for the group: I made a terrain-building tutorial that's on youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SGNHsuXzfns and I wanted to get some feedback on it. I'm aware of the audio problems, this is because a) I used a new video editing program and while it's much better than Windows Movie Maker, I don't know how to fade audio in/out properly yet, nor do I know how to split the audio track from the video, and b) I recorded it in one long session, talking as I cut/glued/painted, and combined with not knowing how to fade/split the audio it makes for a couple of awkward points in the video. But I managed to squeeze 25 minutes of video into about 7 minutes. Since it's my first video like this (so far I've only done battle reports that have been posted in the 40K thread and elsewhere) I wanted to get some input on what could be better, etc., if anyone has a few minutes to spare.
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Mar 19, 2013 11:54
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krushgroove posted:I think making sure your models fit with the current range of kits is pretty important - it's hard enough for an established company to release a new game/concept/genre/scale, so up to a point it's a good idea to stick with the status quo. Thought it was a good video. Didn't notice any problems with the sound, so not sure what you think is wrong. I suggest that you prepare a script of sorts, you go off on tangets a couple of times. It would make the whole thing a bit more polished. Do a "here's one I made earlier" at the beginning after you explain the project so people know what you are up to. I think you should decide if you want to do a painting/modelling or both tutorial. You include a few bits of the painting process but then skip on, it's not as detailed as the modelling part. It is really good for a first go, and I had never thought of using egg boxes as tanktraps, so it helped this Goon! There is probably a niche for tutorials in budget-terrain-that-looks-good.
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Mar 19, 2013 12:25
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^^^The audio stuff he was talking about was probably the transitions between music and some of his speaking segments. Those should get smoothed out as he gets more familiar with this software. I feel like you might be able to streamline the video even more by avoiding the live descriptions. The segments where you sped up the video and used text to describe the steps were effective at getting your point across quickly while keeping the viewer's interest. If on top of this you also made a separate voice track to read those text blocks and possibly go into more detail and add a personal touch it would make it even better. If you don't have decent sound setup to make a Voice Over track then I recommend you figure out how to separate the voice track from the video and then literally record yourself 'Voicing Over' your video. You can dump the video part and keep the audio part as a quasi Voice Over track. Oh, and make a script, the biggest way to loose people's interest is to have dead air or drone on with 'um's and 'ah's. A script generally helps you deliver your message in less words while being more informative, which are good things in a How-To video. Beyond that you seem to have the drive and your stuff actually looked really good. I'm jealous that you got those reaper paints. MasterSlowPoke and I are on Amazon's wait list for those.
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Mar 19, 2013 12:37
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will blow your mind.
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Hey guys and gals, especially you photo wizards, should I pull the trigger on a new camera? A buddy of mine has a Canon G11 and I'm pretty sure I could talk him down from $350. I'll be taking mostly picture of minis and maybe doing some videos with it, which is why I'm asking here. What do you guys use when you take your awesome photos?
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Mar 19, 2013 12:37
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The G11 is a pretty good camera but considering it's older than the S95 (which I used to record the video I posted just above) and the S95 new was $400...yeah you should definitely talk your buddy down from $350. The S95 is fantastic and I love love love it, just wish it had autofocus for video, the batreps I've done have had some dodgy blurry bits. Thanks very much guys, WOM got it right with the audio transitions. I do have a good podcasting USB mic so I could easily do the voiceover recording after the video is done. I think it's a matter of getting the process down - the build was done on the spur of the moment because there was a game the following day and I really wanted to make some new terrain (I was putting off finishing some big models) and while I was getting the stuff together I thought 'why not film this?' So it was the first time building those particular types of pieces, first time doing a terrain tutorial, etc. - very last minute basically! I'll definitely work on a script next time - I might do this by recording myself as I did for this video, then as I watch it back write down the relevant points to talk about as I record the voiceover on a proper mic. I did mean to put in a 'finished piece' picture or video at the beginning, just to get the idea across of what is getting built. As for making the split between building and painting, I'm not the greatest figure painter but I love building terrain, and painting it is pretty easy, I think. So I skipped a lot of the painting stuff - I'll try to make it more clear in future videos somehow. Thanks again for the quick feedback! I'd appreciate any more 
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Mar 19, 2013 13:08
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Bavius posted:Hey guys and gals, especially you photo wizards, should I pull the trigger on a new camera? A buddy of mine has a Canon G11 and I'm pretty sure I could talk him down from $350. I'm a budding camerafag, I use a Canon EOS 550D (Ti3tuxV Pro super deluxe Mark 6 whatever the gently caress americans call them) with a 24-135mm USM lens, SLIK F630 tripod and cable release. Get the G11, its a very decent Point and Shoot Pro, doesnt have the interchangable lenses like a DSLR but has all the manual controls of one. However for that price you may be able to get a newer one. A G15 is $425 AUD. But for what you're doing (mini photography), a mid range Point and shoot with a beanbag would suffice. crossposting from the Battletech thread. I painted some more 36th Lyran Guards today. I think i like the white leg pattern more.   (USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)
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Mar 19, 2013 13:08
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The wargames store where I live has my painting and the owner has invited me to come in at some point and discuss getting a deal going for selling things out of the shop and getting discount on bulk buys on models, etc. 
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Mar 19, 2013 13:40
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You live in a wargames store?
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Mar 19, 2013 14:08
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Living the dream...
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Mar 19, 2013 14:25
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I ordered a few VGC paints to replace colours I was running low on, and interestingly they now feature a little "No Airbrushing!" logo on the labels. Wonder if people were dumb enough to just gloop the bottle in without thinning, and mangled their airbrush...or if it's a ploy by Vallejo to sell more VMA paints. I seriously doubt there's anything odd formulation-wise with VGC paints, I've never had any trouble airbrushing them. 
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Mar 19, 2013 14:27
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OneTrueBru posted:I ordered a few VGC paints to replace colours I was running low on, and interestingly they now feature a little "No Airbrushing!" logo on the labels. It's because some of them contain cadmium or other heavy metals. You do not want to spray those.
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Mar 19, 2013 14:36
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KozmoNaut posted:It's because some of them contain cadmium or other heavy metals. You do not want to spray those. Ahh, you're correct. It's interesting, as the paints are labeled as non-toxic, but checking Vallejo's website they have a special section in their FAQs describing cadmium pigments and their airborne toxicity. Thanks, I had better invest in a decent filter mask!
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Mar 19, 2013 14:49
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thiswayliesmadness posted:Meganob-ification underway. Shoulder pads aren't attached yet and still trying to build a decent kombi-skorcha. I'm glad those AT-43 models are working for you. And if anyone tries to give you grief about them, just say they are made from looted Tau armor.
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Mar 19, 2013 14:53
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KozmoNaut posted:It's because some of them contain cadmium or other heavy metals. You do not want to spray those. Also don't lick your brushes.
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Mar 19, 2013 14:59
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If I have large areas that I want to wash (terrain sized) is using an airbrush viable?
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Mar 19, 2013 15:03
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Indolent Bastard posted:If I have large areas that I want to wash (terrain sized) is using an airbrush viable? This tends to just tint the whole piece rather than shade/delineate areas like a normal wash. The droplets dry too quickly for capillary action to work. Handy for vehicles, not so much for small models and gribbly terrain.
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Mar 19, 2013 15:07
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I've used the Ghost Tints on terrain, thinking it would be like a wash - basically it doesn't drip down like a wash would from a brush, it's basically placing the tint/wash exactly where you want it (so, basically like using an airbrush). I'm pretty sure a normal wash would act the same way. I think the idea of applying wash with a brush is that you get it pooling up in recesses and deep areas - you can do the same, but with a little more skill/work (but a lot more precision) with an airbrush. I haven't gotten that far with my airbrush use on terrain yet, though.
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Mar 19, 2013 15:17
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Kommando posted:However for that price you may be able to get a newer one. A G15 is $425 AUD. But for what you're doing (mini photography), a mid range Point and shoot with a beanbag would suffice.
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Mar 19, 2013 16:55
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Fair enough, I am moving into a new place by the end of the month and should have room to get a decent hobby space setup along with ample lighting. I'll use what I've got for now, but after I get situated I'll take some photos and see if a new camera is in the pipe.
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Mar 19, 2013 17:01
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I agree, the quality on most point and shoot cameras is totally fine for most photography, the day when you needed a big fancy camera for quality digital images is long passed. Unless you want to make billboards or have some serious high-end needs, all you really need is a point and shoot that provides a minimum level of control over settings. I use a Nikon D50, which is a pretty old DSLR at this point, but by far the bigger limitation on my photography is that I am lazy about setup and sloppy with actually adjuting my settings.
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Mar 19, 2013 18:14
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Ashcans posted:I use a Nikon D50, which is a pretty old DSLR at this point, but by far the bigger limitation on my photography is that I am lazy about setup and sloppy with actually adjuting my settings. I pressed the shutter-release on my point and shoot, and 2 seconds later, had a perfect photo. I fail at complicated photography. 
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Mar 19, 2013 19:11
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I ordered the full set of Minitaire paints back in mid-February, and they finally arrived today! (I believe Amazon still shows them as back-ordered, but I guess Badger is fulfilling some orders in the meantime). Can't wait to get these into my airbrush and see how they go.krushgroove posted:I also have a question for the group: I made a terrain-building tutorial that's on youtube: I watched your video. I definitely noticed the weird sound transitions but you're working on those. I think you should have mentioned up-front that you're painting with an airbrush. They've been really popular in this thread lately, but in the general hobby most people don't have one and might be a bit turned off when suddenly you're using one. You might actually enhance the video by showing how to get the good results using an airbrush (on one model) or hand-brushing only (on another model). I thought in some places you were too sped-up. Overall it's great to make the video really short, but I wanted to see your technique a little better: how you're gluing down your basing materials (for modelers) and how you're painting (for painters). I guess deciding which audience you're aiming for is a good idea, but I don't see why you couldn't aim for both if you go ahead and show more of the work. I'd be OK with the video being 10 minutes instead of 7 if it means I can clearly see the technique for each step, in regular speed. The worst bit for me was where you skipped all the finishing painting entirely. It basically meant you weren't showing painting technique, in which case, just show all the modeling, and then go "OK now we paint" and clip to the finished piece. That would work too. I think the captioning could be toned down a little. Smaller text, try for better contrast against the video, maybe use them like movie subtitles? You can also use Youtube's overlay features. One enhancement I'd say definitely do is when you mentioned the wash recipe guy, use the Youtube overlay to add a link to wherever his stuff is on the web. Otherwise most people won't know what you mean and might have a hard time googling for it without the correct spelling of the guy's name. Overall I think it's still a really useful video, not a material I'd ever thought of using, so that's great. Also, despite the problems with editing/sound it's still miles better than some of these half-hour-long videos I've watched where 80% of the content should have been edited out. I'm really looking forward to more along the same lines from you, keep it up!
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Mar 19, 2013 19:54
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The OP's list of tutorials and especially the getting started post were very nice, but I was wondering if anybody had a reasonable online source for a beginner to get their paints.berzerkmonkey posted:I spent two hours trying to get a good photo out of my Canon S2IS, dicking around with light levels, and focus, and everything else, and I still failed. More light is almost always the solution to poor quality DSLR photos; Blast the hell outta that subject. Adam Kensai fucked around with this message at 21:06 on Mar 19, 2013 |
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Mar 19, 2013 20:54
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Adam Kensai posted:The OP's list of tutorials and especially the getting started post were very nice, but I was wondering if anybody had a reasonable online source for a beginner to get their paints. If you want to buy individual paints, just pick up a few basic colors from GW, Vallejo, Reaper, or Privateer - you pretty much can't go wrong with any of them. Everyone has a preference, but they're all pretty good. A word of advice though - do not buy a gigantic paint set with 400 colors, especially when you're just starting out. They sound appealing, one stop and you're done, but most of them will sit around and never get used. Wait until you establish yourself, then go crazy with purchasing an entire line. Adam Kensai posted:More light is almost always the solution to poor quality DSLR photos; Blast the hell outta that subject.
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Mar 19, 2013 21:07
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berzerkmonkey posted:Good advice berzerkmonkey posted:Interestingly, I had the same lighting. Two different cameras, two different results. Unless I have my flash set to the brightness of a neutron star, my point and shoot can bury my DSLR in terms of image quality. The DSLR produces some studio-quality lookin' stuff if the lighting is right, but damned if that point and shoot isn't idiot-proof - neither my sucking nor crappy conditions can screw up the shot.
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Mar 19, 2013 21:15
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Thanks a ton! There's several bits where I skipped doing something that I know would have made the video better, but I was getting tired and impatient. Like most projects, I should have not pushed myself and taken my time. I'll definitely add the notes via youtube, it's something I usually do on the battle reports but I haven't had time to add them yet to this video.
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Mar 19, 2013 21:32
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IS there such a thing as a metallic medium i can add to paints to make them metallic, or should I just be tinting over silver?
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Mar 19, 2013 21:42
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Fauxtool posted:IS there such a thing as a metallic medium i can add to paints to make them metallic, or should I just be tinting over silver? I haven't tried it, but maybe you could add mica powder to some of your acrylics? Tinting is probably the better bet, though.
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Mar 19, 2013 22:03
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Fauxtool posted:IS there such a thing as a metallic medium i can add to paints to make them metallic, or should I just be tinting over silver? Vallejo makes it. http://www.thewarstore.com/product43299.html
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Mar 19, 2013 22:16
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Fauxtool posted:IS there such a thing as a metallic medium i can add to paints to make them metallic, or should I just be tinting over silver?
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Mar 19, 2013 22:32
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Yeah I've used the vallejo medium and it pretty much adds a glitter effect to your paint, like imagine a glittery car color like "electric blue" and that's what you get.
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Mar 19, 2013 22:35
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The best use for Metallic Medium I've found has been as a final, post-sealing highlight for really bright silvers.
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Mar 19, 2013 22:39
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