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Does VW really use thicker sheetmetal than other mainstream brands? The doors on my '13 Passat definitely seem heaver than any other car that I've owned.
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Oct 3, 2013 19:37
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Augmented Dickey posted:Does VW really use thicker sheetmetal than other mainstream brands? The doors on my '13 Passat definitely seem heaver than any other car that I've owned. From what I have observed yes. My car has been through at least 2 hail storms since I bought it 2 years ago and doesn't have a single ding. My last car went 6 years with the only dents being caused by major incidents involving stupid people. It had exactly 1 door ding and it was only visible at the perfect angle for the light to hit it.
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Oct 4, 2013 14:40
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veedubfreak posted:It had exactly 1 door ding and it was only visible at the perfect angle for the light to hit it. I got my only ding within the first month of owning my car. Otherwise it has been really solid about avoiding minor damage on the doors.
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Oct 4, 2013 16:16
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Okay, so my door lock did the usual spinning thing - I took it apart and there were a bunch of broken pieces so I ordered one of those $8 kits from the UK. Tried to put it back together and the pieces crumbled as usual cheapo cast things do. So here is my question - how difficult would it be to order a door lock from a crashed car and swap out my tumbler? Can I even do this? Is there a specific year that I need or are they all the same? Is the Passat key lock compatible? I'm looking at $115 + 2-4 weeks for VW to get me a new tumbler that is keyed to my VIN but I'm worried that someone may have rekeyed my car in the past or something since you never know on a 14 year old car with 200k miles. I mean I see stuff like this - http://www.vorwerkauto.com/white-font-handle-oem-98-01-vw-golf-jetta-passat.html but I'm not sure if it'll be impossible to get it all back together without breaking something. I'm selling the car so I'm trying to clean it up as best that I can... on a budget. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 21:48 on Oct 4, 2013 |
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Oct 4, 2013 21:45
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BlackMK4 posted:So here is my question - how difficult would it be to order a door lock from a crashed car and swap out my tumbler? Can I even do this? Is there a specific year that I need or are they all the same? Is the Passat key lock compatible? I'm looking at $115 + 2-4 weeks for VW to get me a new tumbler that is keyed to my VIN but I'm worried that someone may have rekeyed my car in the past or something since you never know on a 14 year old car with 200k miles. You can do that. It's fiddly and annoying, but do-able. I've rebuild hundreds when the little eccentric paddle thing has broken. There's a C-shaped clip that hold the eccentric to the lock barrel, so they can be split. Just be sure to pay close attention to how it comes apart.
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Oct 6, 2013 01:14
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2000 MKiv Jetta, 2.0L Is it worthwhile to switch to 5w40 at 260,000km? 5w30 has been used thus far.. I live in a place with mild summers and cold winters FWIW. Also, I'm getting some clunking when going over bumps-- the basic research I've done seems to say that worn bushings are likely the culprit. I'm planning to replace the front sway bar bushings and rear axle bushings. Is there anything else I should look into while I'm at it?
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Oct 6, 2013 01:30
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fyo posted:2000 MKiv Jetta, 2.0L The bushings on the control arms, the big flat ones in the back. Get some Audi TT replacements for them and be happy about the huge increase in how fun it is to drive.
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Oct 6, 2013 01:35
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Mooseykins posted:You can do that. It's fiddly and annoying, but do-able. I've rebuild hundreds when the little eccentric paddle thing has broken. There's a C-shaped clip that hold the eccentric to the lock barrel, so they can be split. Can they be disassembled without a key that fits? I seem to remember having to put my key in, turn the lock 90*, then pull out.
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Oct 6, 2013 08:47
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Fart Pipe posted:The bushings on the control arms, the big flat ones in the back. Get some Audi TT replacements for them and be happy about the huge increase in how fun it is to drive. Ok, I'll swap out those too, thanks. I just took a look at the front end while I was changing the oil-- turns out the bracket for the passenger side of the stabilizer bar has rusted and fallen off. Added incentive, I guess.
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Oct 6, 2013 18:33
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Need some help: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hmCUBihS3_o Audi 4000 Quattro, clutch won't disengage properly and I changed the clutch and pressure plate to try to fix it, no change, and this mechanical clunking and clinking happens when I rev the motor. The two symptoms appeared simultaneously I'm getting really frustrated, what should I do? My current thought process is to replace the slave and proceed from there, I'm getting apprehensive and thinking about removing the head to check for damage. It idles fine though and does fairly well when revved, the sound come and goes, so its not consistent like a lifter or valve. CommieGIR fucked around with this message at 00:35 on Oct 7, 2013 |
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Oct 7, 2013 00:31
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BlackMK4 posted:Can they be disassembled without a key that fits? I seem to remember having to put my key in, turn the lock 90*, then pull out. I believe so. I probably have some spares laying around, so i'll have a go at splitting one without a key. If i have one i can send it to you if you want.
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Oct 7, 2013 13:28
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Mooseykins posted:I believe so. I probably have some spares laying around, so i'll have a go at splitting one without a key. If i have one i can send it to you if you want. Thanks, man. I ordered one for $18 shipped last night and I'll give it a shot. I was thinking I could take a piece of heat shrink tubing that fits over the cylinder with all the pins out (key out mode), heat the heat shrink so it compresses the pins (key in mode) and pull the lock cylinder out the front like you usually would with a key. That was just something that crossed my mind while driving today so who knows if it'll work how I think.. I'll give it a shot with the broken one I have here. To anyone that has no idea what I'm talking about : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VdOHbWazgjc
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Oct 8, 2013 01:05
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BlackMK4 posted:Thanks, man. I ordered one for $18 shipped last night and I'll give it a shot. I was thinking I could take a piece of heat shrink tubing that fits over the cylinder with all the pins out (key out mode), heat the heat shrink so it compresses the pins (key in mode) and pull the lock cylinder out the front like you usually would with a key. That was just something that crossed my mind while driving today so who knows if it'll work how I think.. I'll give it a shot with the broken one I have here. You don't need the key to disassemble the donor lock. You need the key to assemble the one going back in the car as you need to turn the barrel during assembly, so you should be fine. Also, the barrel comes out the face of the handle, while the eccentric comes out the back.
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Oct 8, 2013 01:56
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Mooseykins posted:You don't need the key to disassemble the donor lock. You need the key to assemble the one going back in the car as you need to turn the barrel during assembly, so you should be fine. Also, the barrel comes out the face of the handle, while the eccentric comes out the back. Yeah, the problem is getting the barrel out the face without the key since the pins prevent it from coming out as an anti-theft thing. I guess that part doesn't really mater as I can reuse my current handle piece.
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Oct 8, 2013 02:10
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BlackMK4 posted:Yeah, the problem is getting the barrel out the face without the key since the pins prevent it from coming out as an anti-theft thing. I guess that part doesn't really mater as I can reuse my current handle piece. The barrel doesn't need to come out, it only needs to turn for reassembly to locate a spring in the mechanism. You remove the parts from the donor lock without doing anything to the barrel, just remove the C-clip at the back of the barrel and it all comes apart, barrel stays in the handle piece.
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Oct 8, 2013 02:21
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Sounds good. How did you get the spring back in and all? Something about having to wind it?
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Oct 8, 2013 02:39
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BlackMK4 posted:Sounds good. How did you get the spring back in and all? Something about having to wind it? needle nose pliers and lots of swearing.
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Oct 8, 2013 05:35
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Key chat reminds me why my locksmith friend is rebuilding my icepicks for the bug, also why I paid someone to fix the tumbler on my 95 when it snapped.
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Oct 8, 2013 16:31
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Do I remember correctly that Mk 1 Sciroccos are more loved than Mk 2s? I've never driven either; could someone tell me why?
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Oct 9, 2013 17:52
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Mooseykins posted:needle nose pliers and lots of swearing. I got my $20 handle today, was able to pull the new cylinder out of the new housing with my current key since it was close enough, swapped my pins to the new cylinder, and reassembled. Couldn't get the spring wound after loving with it for five minutes so it doesn't autocenter the key but it works perfectly otherwise. Saved $100. Cool, mission complete.   Time to sell the TDI. Or not. I have no idea. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 06:12 on Oct 11, 2013 |
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Oct 11, 2013 05:57
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I bought an A4, but the previous owner obviously had some penis envy and put S4 logos on front and rear- How easy is it to take them off?
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Oct 11, 2013 16:48
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DesperateDan posted:I bought an A4, but the previous owner obviously had some penis envy and put S4 logos on front and rear- How easy is it to take them off? Hair drier and dental floss.
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Oct 11, 2013 21:47
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DesperateDan posted:I bought an A4, but the previous owner obviously had some penis envy and put S4 logos on front and rear- How easy is it to take them off? veedubfreak posted:Hair drier and dental floss. Note he said "hair dryer" and not "home depot heat gun". I did not do this but I have seen people that did,  and the molten badges. You probably also want clay the area to remove leftover sticky and put a coat of wax on it as well. Just to make sure the area doesn't end up looking a lot different than the paint that wasn't covered by badges.
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Oct 11, 2013 23:18
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I have a 2010 GTI that has an APR Stage I tune which has 42k miles on it. I notice that while trying to pass in WOT in 6th gear I can feel what I think is the clutch slipping. The revs go up a bit, the car stops accelerating a bit, and I get the impression something is slipping. I did some testing and think it happens pretty frequently in 4th-6th, and possibly a little bit in 3rd. Once when it happened when I was testing it out the CEL started flashing then stopped and didn't turn back on. My only other question is whether it could be carbon buildup, but I kind of doubt it. I bought the car used back when it had 30k miles on it. 42k seems kind of early for a clutch, but I do understand it can definitely happen with tuned cars. I use my car as a daily driver, commute about 8 miles/day, and don't thrash it. 1. Does this sound like a slipping clutch? 2. If there's no slip in daily driving I can keep on driving it right? I only drive about 5-6k/year. 3. How much should I expect to pay for a replacement? Residency Evil fucked around with this message at 14:07 on Oct 12, 2013 |
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Oct 12, 2013 13:46
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It does sound like the clutch is slipping. Try putting it in 6th with low'ish revs and flooring it, if you get the same experience of the revs going up but no power then you'll know for sure. Replacement wise I imagine you're looking at 1k+ depending on if you want to go with an OEM one or an aftermarket one that may hold up better with the power. You're probably looking at $500'ish for labor and whatever you want to spend on the clutch itself.
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Oct 12, 2013 15:50
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Is it ok to drop it down to the stock tune and keep driving it if the clutch doesn't slip? In all honesty, it's only slipping at WOT at highway speeds, which I'm rarely at. It's fine around town.
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Oct 12, 2013 16:26
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It's fine for as long as you're fine with it. It will only get worse over time so eventually there will come a time when it annoys you enough to replace it, but for now if going back to the stock map makes it stop slipping you're good.
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Oct 12, 2013 16:55
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If you want to avoid paying to replace your clutch, then immediately stop doing anything that will make it slip. No more "hey, I wonder if it will slip if I do this?" Taking the tune out is a fine idea.
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Oct 12, 2013 18:52
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Opensourcepirate posted:If you want to avoid paying to replace your clutch, then immediately stop doing anything that will make it slip. No more "hey, I wonder if it will slip if I do this?" Taking the tune out is a fine idea. Well, I did put the stock tune back and did a "hey, I wonder if it will slip if I do this" test in 6th gear and got no slip.  I figure I'll keep the stock tune until I notice it slipping and then replace it with a heavier duty clutch. I don't need the APR tune that much for my 8 mile round trip commute.
Residency Evil fucked around with this message at 22:26 on Oct 12, 2013 |
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Oct 12, 2013 22:01
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I searched the thread and found some stuff about this topic, but I wanted to make sure about something. First, I just bought a 2002 GTI 1.8T. So far, I am pretty happy with it, but it has some smog issues that I need to take care of. I got a p0411 code and checked the system out and all of the stuff that I have checked so far seems to work. Like the combi valve holds vacuum and the air pump draws air forcefully, I have yet to check the line to the combi valve though. One thing I noticed is that the pump makes a noise like a bearing is going bad, like an intermittent noise, not the regular vacuum sound it makes. The other thing is that it threw a p0420, before this. I was stupid since I had my first code scanner and I erased it. It hasn't come back and it looks like that part is ready according to the scanner. I am a little frustrated by this because I just ordered a cat and the two o2 sensors (just in case.) I am pretty sure the cat is bad, I did the temp test and it was 400 before and 130 ish after. I just want to make sure I won't have any smog check problems down the road. Does anyone know exactly how the car determines the p0411 code? Oregon DEQ auto-fails for MIL, right? I read something like one thing can be wrong with the smog system and it will pass, but I can't remember about the MIL.
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Oct 16, 2013 02:30
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If your pump is loud it is probably separating at the center, there are rivets there that tend to come loose with age in which case you are leaking air there. You can check the vacuum supply line but 1.8s rarely break them there. The combination valves also clog up with carbon, this is a fault where vag com is your best tool, output testing the system and see what is working and what the combination valve duty cycle is, etc. Check your pump rivets first, you can replace them with bolts or zip ties or whatever if your pump is separating. Your cat fault is likely not related, you probably have a weak cat starting to fail. They all do around 10 years or so. Use pb blaster on the studs and try to remove the nuts by hand when you replace it. Hot bolt paste also works wonders when putting the new nuts on the studs for it if you ever need to remove it again.
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Oct 16, 2013 05:35
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Thanks, I just got back from the parts store with the catalytic converter, O2 sensors, pb blaster and hi temp anti sieze so I am pretty set there. I do really wish that I had investigated the VAG-COM thing further since I could have just bought that first instead of getting the generic scanner that I did. Actually, I don't think that I heard about it until after the purchase. Live and learn. Actually, I tested the air pump noise again after I posted this and it only came on when I applied vacuum to the combi valve, whatever, I will get it fixed somehow.
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Oct 16, 2013 16:42
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My dad's 2010 CC had two lightbulbs go out all of a sudden. The left low beam and left cornering bulbs both went out at the same time. I went to check the fusebox and the spaces for headlight fuses, according to the manual, don't have fuses in them them at all. Am I missing something?
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Oct 16, 2013 17:23
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stizu posted:Thanks, I just got back from the parts store with the catalytic converter, O2 sensors, pb blaster and hi temp anti sieze so I am pretty set there. I do really wish that I had investigated the VAG-COM thing further since I could have just bought that first instead of getting the generic scanner that I did. Actually, I don't think that I heard about it until after the purchase. Live and learn. Speaking of this - I have a legit VAGCOM license for the 3rd party cables... problem is the drat thing only works sometimes. Connecting to the engine module times out like 90% of the time I try it. Is this a known issue with the 3rd party cables or would it be because I'm running my VAGCOM app inside a Win7 64 VM ontop of OSX?
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Oct 16, 2013 20:17
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I know that older / 3rd party cables only support the older communications methods, so the newer your car is the more limited the functionality will be. I'm not sure if that's your issue.
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Oct 16, 2013 21:40
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I've got a 2000 TDI so it shouldn't be an issue. The thing is so intermittent. A few months ago I set my timing, IQ, etc without an issue. Now it doesn't work at all. I wonder if my engine harness is hosed up... When I try to connect to the engine module the engine acts like it does when you go into basic mode for a few seconds.
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Oct 16, 2013 21:42
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BlackMK4 posted:Is this a known issue with the 3rd party cables or would it be because I'm running my VAGCOM app inside a Win7 64 VM ontop of OSX? Can you borrow an old XP laptop for a day or so? You have multiple layers going through this, and even with direct port access, I really wouldn't trust this to work as much as I would as a decade-old $100 laptop. That said, I have no experience with VAGCOM on Win7, and very brief experience on Win32.
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Oct 17, 2013 00:26
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Hummer Driving human being posted:My dad's 2010 CC had two lightbulbs go out all of a sudden. The left low beam and left cornering bulbs both went out at the same time. I went to check the fusebox and the spaces for headlight fuses, according to the manual, don't have fuses in them them at all. Am I missing something? There are two fuse boxes right? Are you checking the right one?
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Oct 17, 2013 01:40
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West SAAB Story posted:Can you borrow an old XP laptop for a day or so? You have multiple layers going through this, and even with direct port access, I really wouldn't trust this to work as much as I would as a decade-old $100 laptop. Cheap serial chipsets/etc can be incredibly flaky in the best of circumstances, let alone relying on your VM softwares passthrough abilities. We have devices that will get bricked if you try and update their firmware via serial using all but one revision of USB serial chipset 
BurgerQuest fucked around with this message at 04:41 on Oct 17, 2013 |
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Oct 17, 2013 02:16
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West SAAB Story posted:Can you borrow an old XP laptop for a day or so? You have multiple layers going through this, and even with direct port access, I really wouldn't trust this to work as much as I would as a decade-old $100 laptop. The problem with that is that you only get two activations of your $100 VAGCOM-Lite license. I guess I could try to buy a $100 laptop to keep around just for VAGCOM, though that's 2/3rd ($150 to upgrade) of the way to upgrading to an actual Rosstech cable that comes with a chip allowing it to be used on any VAGCOM install... which I can then resell. I think I just talked myself into paying $150 for a KII-USB interface cable from Rosstech. edit: code: Research on TDI-Club tells me I can get $190ish for the KII cable.
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 03:04 on Oct 17, 2013 |
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Oct 17, 2013 02:51
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