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I loooove those rain-to-snow transitions we get where you have to brush off 3 inches of snow to get at the 1" of ice on your windows.
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Oct 28, 2013 23:56
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CommieGIR posted:Those belts look....okay. The topsides look ok but the side with the ribs were all cracked and rotted. I should've taken a picture of the other side ok? The AC compressor belt looked ok like that too except it was split down the length into two smaller belts running side by side.
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Oct 29, 2013 01:05
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Until today, I thought most OEM crank pulleys were made from a solid hunk of metal and that a harmonic balancer was something along the lines of a balance shaft, i.e. found on certain but not all engines. It doesn't help that most 'performance' lightned, underdriven crank pulleys are machined from billet aluminum, with no consideration to dampening crankshaft harmonics. The belts posted above do look pretty nice compared to the ones I took off my sister's car, [this space reserved] for a picture tomorrow. If those are originals, than mine were definitely original and going on 16 years old. The timing belt on the other hand, at 6 years old and 70k miles, looked fresh. I'm guessing the last mechanic replaced the timing belt and just threw the old accessory belts back on. 
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Oct 29, 2013 05:13
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That rubber bit gives the crankshaft some damping so that waves don't resonate back down the crank, but lose some energy in the rubber before reflecting, reducing the ability of the system to resonate. Lots of engines don't have any harmonic damping. If you don't load the engine at idle or slightly above it, it mostly isn't a problem.
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Oct 29, 2013 06:32
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Found this Gem on an 85 325e Automatic E30 with 450,000+ Miles on it at a Pick-N-Pull Both rears were the same... My guess is the effect was heavy brake bias toward the front... 
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Oct 29, 2013 07:19
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At first I was like, "man I didn't know 6 cylinder E30s ever had drum rears" and then I was like 
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Oct 29, 2013 21:59
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At first I thought the issue was the missing wheel studs, and didn't pay much attention to anything else - and then I was also like
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Oct 30, 2013 01:37
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xp67 posted:At first I thought the issue was the missing wheel studs, and didn't pay much attention to anything else - and then I was also like Most German cars use wheel bolts instead of studs & lug nuts.
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Oct 30, 2013 01:56
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Fucknag posted:Most German cars use wheel bolts instead of studs & lug nuts. 3 wheel bolts and one stud
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Oct 30, 2013 04:27
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poo poo, didn't even notice that til now. Although I think BMWs come with a screw-in stud to line up the wheel when you're changing a spare. Point stands. You can see the threads in the open holes.
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Oct 30, 2013 05:23
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So here are some manufacturing defects in an iPhone 4s I bought on eBay to take apart. Thought I'd share. This is a welded stand off for Id guess about a #2 screw:  Note the 4/7 welds incomplete, 2 of 3 good welds have clear stress concentrations. Another standoff with incomplete weld, really only 3/5 can be considered good.  Presumably good spot welds, I thought this picture was neat because it illustrates that the outer case is a heat sink. Rounded edges indicate sheet metal back and the color indicates stainless steel to me.  Here is the joint of two parts of the outer steel case, it looks like that block is brazed to some sheet metal and there's a crack running through the braze.  
CarForumPoster fucked around with this message at 16:01 on Oct 30, 2013 |
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Oct 30, 2013 15:37
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In those last pictures I believe you are looking at a rubber/plastic/non-metallic spacer used to insulate both of those sections of metal case since they are used as an antenna. That was the huge slip=on case recall thing since peoples fingers would bridge the connection and cause the reception to take a poo poo.
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Oct 30, 2013 16:25
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dietcokefiend posted:In those last pictures I believe you are looking at a rubber/plastic/non-metallic spacer used to insulate both of those sections of metal case since they are used as an antenna. That was the huge slip=on case recall thing since peoples fingers would bridge the connection and cause the reception to take a poo poo. No I am looking at the brazing (I think it is) joint between two steel pieces. The is a crack running from the dove tail cut spacer down a few cm that is magnified in the second picture.
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Oct 30, 2013 17:03
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dietcokefiend posted:That was the huge slip=on case recall thing since peoples fingers would bridge the connection and cause the reception to take a poo poo.
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Oct 30, 2013 17:31
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Endless Mike posted:That was the AT&T iPhone 4, not the 4s. (The later Verizon iPhone 4 had fixed it, as well.) When I got my 4, (on release day) I tried HARD to replicate the antenna-gate problems, and really couldn't. The only way I could come close was to death grip the entire surround of the phone with my forefingers and thumbs of both hands, and even then, I would still have (degraded) reception.
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Oct 30, 2013 18:31
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Fucknag posted:Most German cars use wheel bolts instead of studs & lug nuts. It seems like that would make it a pain in the rear end to put a wheel back on, unless you had at least one stud like someone mentioned. Is there any reason to do it that way, or just "german engineering"? I thought some tracks required studs over bolts, so it doesn't seem like there would be an advantage to bolts in terms of safety.
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Oct 30, 2013 19:36
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After you've owned a BMW for a few years you tend to get pretty good at sticking wheels back on and lining them up. It is a pain in the rear end though. My understanding is that wheel bolts are marginally stronger, but probably not enough to really matter. I prefer them for looks, but that's about it. Of course my current wheels have bolt covers so you can't even see them at all.
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Oct 30, 2013 19:43
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How much more hosed are you if you strip the bolt hole, rather than a stud?
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Oct 30, 2013 19:48
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Root Bear posted:
I put 800km of abuse onto this and it still didn't bust loose.  I'll probably blow it up in a burnout competition at some point.
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Oct 30, 2013 19:51
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CarForumPoster posted:So here are some manufacturing defects in an iPhone 4s I bought on eBay to take apart. Thought I'd share. How did you actually take such magnified photos? I'm just curious. Phy posted:How much more hosed are you if you strip the bolt hole, rather than a stud? You replace the rotating hub which either comes on it's own on the older cars (basically pre-e28/e30) or as a wheel bearing+hub assembly on the newer ones. It really isn't that big a pain. It's theoretically more expensive than snapping a stud on a normal car, but some conventional cars you have to press apart the wheel bearing+hub assembly to get the studs out. Which is a joyous task filled with agony if you don't have a press and the right spacers on hand.
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Oct 30, 2013 19:58
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Slavvy posted:How did you actually take such magnified photos? I'm just curious. Something like this http://www.edmundoptics.com/imaging/cameras/usb-cameras/eo-usb-2-0-cmos-machine-vision-cameras/2818 Mounted to the top of a microscope.
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Oct 30, 2013 20:08
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Phy posted:How much more hosed are you if you strip the bolt hole, rather than a stud? Marginally moreso. You're less likely to strip the threads out of the hub (good) so you ust may be able to extract it. But if you can't you're replacing a hub rather than just banging a piece of a stud out and putting a new one in.
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Oct 30, 2013 20:17
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MomJeans420 posted:It seems like that would make it a pain in the rear end to put a wheel back on, unless you had at least one stud like someone mentioned. Is there any reason to do it that way, or just "german engineering"? I thought some tracks required studs over bolts, so it doesn't seem like there would be an advantage to bolts in terms of safety. Studs that aren't pressed in are nice because you can swap them out if they get mangled up somehow and its easy to visually inspect them to ensure proper thread engagement. They also allow you to ensure you have enough thread engagement if you swap to wider wheels. If you do that with standard bolts you will need longer bolts. revmoo posted:After you've owned a BMW for a few years you tend to get pretty good at sticking wheels back on and lining them up. It is a pain in the rear end though. In the trunk toolkit there is a tool to align the wheel on the hub.
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Oct 30, 2013 20:38
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How is it difficult to line the wheel up on the hub? I must have done it a thousand times and never thought "I need a special tool to line these holes up with those holes"
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Oct 30, 2013 20:42
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I've never bothered either, but if you were dressed nicely and on the side of the road needing to swap a spare it would make it easier. It's not like you have to go buy it--it comes with the car.
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Oct 30, 2013 20:45
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BraveUlysses posted:
My girlfriends dad was amazed when i told him what that was for. He has a e36 m3 and a e92 m3 and was complaining about how much of a pain in the rear end it was to get the wheels back on.
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Oct 30, 2013 20:50
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Cakefool posted:How is it difficult to line the wheel up on the hub? I must have done it a thousand times and never thought "I need a special tool to line these holes up with those holes" On my car the OEM alloys fit so snugly on the hub that the wheel stays in place by itself, making it super easy to put in the bolts. Precision engineering 
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Oct 30, 2013 21:00
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And if not, the ones here are super nice. My mates audi has lug bolts as well, and for some reason the disks had ten holes and the hub five, and the disk spun freely on the hub. That was a bit of a pain to align.
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Oct 30, 2013 21:01
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Phy posted:How much more hosed are you if you strip the bolt hole, rather than a stud? Which would you rather buy and replace? The $1 stud or several tens of dollars hub? And yes, confirming the "its a massive pain in the rear end" sentiment. My wife used to have a new Beetle and I had to change a flat for her once. NEVER AGAIN. Although the wheels are pretty far down on the list of reasons why I've banned her from ever owning another VW product again...
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Oct 30, 2013 21:10
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Benefit to small (light) tires: on a bug you can rest the tire on the toes of one foot to get things lined up. Simply bend your ankle a bit to elevate to the right spot, and use your free hand to get the bolts started (your other hand will be doing one of three things: bracing the tire, keeping you from falling over, or fishing around on the ground for the next bolt).
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Oct 30, 2013 21:13
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bolind posted:And if not, the ones here are super nice. This. The first time the rotor slips out of alignment with the hub and you're trying to trick it back into place with the car hovering on a scissor jack, that little threaded peg starts to make all kinds of sense. The hub centric fit seems like it's enough, until you remember that when the studs are in the hub; they also keep the rotor from rotating freely.
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Oct 30, 2013 21:32
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Now I'm just upset I don't have an alignment tool in my e46.
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Oct 30, 2013 21:36
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I will never own a loving BMW because of this thread. Edit: There was drat near a zero chance of that anyway, but still.
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Oct 30, 2013 21:49
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I have never had an issue with the wheel bolts. It really is not that big of a deal, and if you can't manage to line up 4 or 5 holes on the hub of a car, I don't think you should be working on cars. It's really not a big issue at all.
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Oct 30, 2013 22:30
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Agreed, it's not that big of a deal.
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Oct 30, 2013 22:44
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Change high offset, wide track wheels that will not on the hub without balancing them. Now do that twice a day for every event and then get back to me on that. Cuts minutes off changing time which matters when it's the end of the day and your in 30C sun. With studs installed I just chuck on the wheel I'm mounting, thread on all the studs then drive them on with a cordless impact. It makes it easier and quicker so I don't really see a reason to keep the bolts. It also means you can run multiple spacer thicknesses, but that is more specific to aftermarket studs. It isn't hard to put the wheels on with bolts, but it makes it easier enough that I'd rather just have studs on everything.
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Oct 30, 2013 22:57
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My wheel/tire combo weighs drat near 90lbs so I would get pissed off at lug bolts in a hurry. But then again, I wouldn't put 90lbs of wheel/tire on each corner of a bmw, either 
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Oct 31, 2013 00:09
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Quick, how much do i bid.
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Oct 31, 2013 01:23
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A former coworker had a lowered Mk. IV GTI, which had the driver's front wheel spaced out because somehow that strut was angled differently form the other side. He had also lost the bolt locking the rotor to the hub. So the couple times I had to rotate his wheels, that corner you had hub, rotor, spacer, and wheel. 4 sets of holes. All free to rotate independently. My hatred for wheel bolts was forged in those flames, and burned brightly ever since.
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Oct 31, 2013 01:35
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Powershift posted:Quick, how much do i bid. $500, pray, make fummins.
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Oct 31, 2013 02:13
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