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Dreadwroth posted:/\/\As a proud lurker and former Games Workshop addict, I agree with that guy. I wanna see this diorama man. They look exactly like that to me. Buffalo squeeze fucked around with this message at 12:25 on Nov 1, 2013 |
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Nov 1, 2013 12:22
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Ok good, I'm not insane then. Sadly, I don't think the special features for Aliens actually says what the tiles were cast from. It looks cool at any rate, and that's all that matters!
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Nov 1, 2013 12:24
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richyp posted:That's not the enri I remember Ok fellow hammy hams. Krushgroove and I have been working on setting up an ueber-blog. It's at a very basic stage at the moment, basically because I know next to nothing about PHP. But I've got the basics up and running. Big thanks to Krushgroove for getting the hosting sorted out. What we've got so far is a generic blog aggregator that will steal all your posts and copy them onto the generic blog where you can either view the original at it's source or comment on the central blog in all your goony glory. It's also setup as a normal blog as a few posters here have expressed interest in creating posts without having to setup a blog of their own. I got a very boring domain name so as not to limit the posts/blogs to just 40k/painting/modelling etc.. presenting: https://www.wargameblogs.com  If you're interested in either submitting your blog to be It's bed time for me, but I'll check the post tomorrow and see who's interested.
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Nov 1, 2013 23:51
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So I started messing around with a cheap digital camera I had since I wasn't really happy with the way my cell phone pics were turning out. Cell phone plus color balancing...Tutorial I went by for color balancing I used this guide to help figure it out and got lucky I found my user manual for my digital camera online. I was pleased with the results especially with the macro function and white balancing although I still needed to use some color balancing.  Hopefully those links might help any other goons out that are having issues with how their photos are turning out. I went back in and added snow to the bases as I felt like the bases were too bland for how I did them for the oath in October Rikthor fucked around with this message at 00:20 on Nov 2, 2013 |
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Nov 2, 2013 00:15
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richyp posted:Ok fellow hammy hams. Awesome, I'll set up my blog this weekend and submit the rss feed to you when its done. Thanks for doing this!
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Nov 2, 2013 00:20
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richyp posted:Krushgroove and I have been working on setting up an ueber-blog. Those look great! Only thing I can suggest is taking a few minutes to detail the teeth and eyes on the chest armor of the guy carrying the standard. Hope you post some more from this army!
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Nov 2, 2013 00:33
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I just registered on the blog, I'll post some of my stuff up as I finish it.
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Nov 2, 2013 00:43
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Rikthor posted:So I started messing around with a cheap digital camera I had since I wasn't really happy with the way my cell phone pics were turning out. I dig the purple, nice job man. As far as the pictures go, they're definitely better than the cell phone pictures. But the light is a tad hard, it's washing out some of the colors/details on the upper part of the models. Try diffusing the light some before it gets to your models. I literally just tape paper towels or wax paper up in front of the bulbs sometimes.
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Nov 2, 2013 00:50
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Got a w&n series 7 in the mail today. It has made it SO much easier to paint details. Here's an ultramarine I knocked out using it. 
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Nov 2, 2013 06:10
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I've been painting my IG guardsmen like the Shadowcorps: I'm using Cadians for my Infantry Blob and I got some Valhallans and Tallarn for Veterans. Any suggestions on colors for those? I don't want to use the usual GW colors for Tallarn (just sandy looking colors) or Valhallans, I'd rather paint them of some color that combines well with the Shadowcorps theme, but no the same colors. Any suggestions? Thanks!
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Nov 2, 2013 08:21
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radlum posted:I've been painting my IG guardsmen like the Shadowcorps: How about citycamo for the Valhallans and just straight black robes (think desert assassins) for the Tallarn.
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Nov 2, 2013 09:13
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2nd Rate Poster posted:Got a w&n series 7 in the mail today. It has made it SO much easier to paint details. Put the mini down before you photograph it next time and you will have greater success. And try and catch the focus on it not the background.
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Nov 2, 2013 09:55
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That marine looks good. I'd recommend a glaze of blue though to draw the highlights in a bit.
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Nov 2, 2013 09:59
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radlum posted:I've been painting my IG guardsmen like the Shadowcorps: Well the Valhallans are based on WWII Russian armored infantry so you can look there for inspiration. The NKVD were the USSR's Secret Police who also fielded divisions during WWII. Mostly they secured the back lines a killed deserters, but they did have snappy uniforms with a similar color scheme to those guys you posted. As for the Tallarn, a lot of actual people fighting in conflicts in Middle Eastern wars dress pretty much in the exact color scheme you have there: Example 1 Example 2
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Nov 2, 2013 10:53
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I couldn't sleep tonight, so I decided to practice edge highlighting. I'm hoping to be mildly competent by the time I get to detailing this month's oath. Am I going the right direction here, or am I way off?   Sorry for how sloppy the rest of the model is; it was a test model for the ultramarine army painter spray and I went overboard washing it to bring the color down to match the rest of my tacticals, and then I didn't thin the paints much because I didn't want to deal with washing out the pallet and waking anyone up. I'm happy to take criticism on the whole model, but I already know it's bad 
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Nov 2, 2013 12:28
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I've tried edge highlighting the weird details on the marine models (specifically referring to the bits at the top of the thigh plates) and I don't think it ever looks good/makes sense. Other than that I think it looks good but I am very bad at painting little mans, but you seem to have even line thickness, etc.
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Nov 2, 2013 13:30
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Thanks guys! Those are good ideas, specially since I already have those colors and don't have to go to my FLGS to buy them!
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Nov 2, 2013 16:05
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I have a plastic Reaper Bones mini that I primed with black P3 primer. After a couple of weeks, I picked it back up and noticed that the surface of it feels a bit "tacky". The primer doesn't come off or anything, but its sticky a bit. Is this normal? Said mini has been in my house since it was primed, so not subject to unusual temperatures or sunlight, and none of my other primed minis have the same odd feel.
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Nov 2, 2013 16:20
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I've found that primer isn't drying properly on my bones (and, in some cases, that the paint inherits the tackiness). I'm getting to point where I'm considering not doing it because the primer never seems to quite dry. Maybe it's the humidity?
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Nov 2, 2013 16:49
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Looking at the preparation guide on the Reaper forums, it sounds like a known issue with the way that several types of spray primer react with the material in the Bones miniatures.
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Nov 2, 2013 16:54
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thespaceinvader posted:I've found that primer isn't drying properly on my bones (and, in some cases, that the paint inherits the tackiness). I'm getting to point where I'm considering not doing it because the primer never seems to quite dry. Maybe it's the humidity? Ok, its not just me, then. I wonder if I can still paint on it and have things work out alright or if I need to reprime. ONLY ONE WAY TO FIND OUT!
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Nov 2, 2013 17:15
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RichyP I'm not so sure how to do an RSS thing but here's a link to my blog: http://ludumartifex.blogspot.com and tumblr: http://nadav-igra.tumblr.com/
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Nov 2, 2013 18:22
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Oxford Comma posted:Ok, its not just me, then. I wonder if I can still paint on it and have things work out alright or if I need to reprime. ONLY ONE WAY TO FIND OUT! Probably ought to consult this post.
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Nov 2, 2013 18:22
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Edit: ^^^^ that especially.Oxford Comma posted:Ok, its not just me, then. I wonder if I can still paint on it and have things work out alright or if I need to reprime. ONLY ONE WAY TO FIND OUT! If it is still tacky, then it is still drying and you will likely encounter a crackling effect for any water based (faster drying) paints you put on it.
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Nov 2, 2013 18:31
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drgnvale posted:I couldn't sleep tonight, so I decided to practice edge highlighting. I'm hoping to be mildly competent by the time I get to detailing this month's oath. Look's good, definitely on the right track. If you want to be braver, you could do a slightly lighter highlight inside the existing ones, much smaller though so they don't overpower the model. Also these lighter ones should be done with much thinner paint so you can build up the highlight gently. SUPER NEAT TOY posted:I've tried edge highlighting the weird details on the marine models (specifically referring to the bits at the top of the thigh plates) and I don't think it ever looks good/makes sense. Other than that I think it looks good but I am very bad at painting little mans, but you seem to have even line thickness, etc. The trick with those parts is to use a fainter highlight around the details, and sparingly use a couple of points in the corners/centre of the lines in a lighter shade. The most obvious example I have is here:  Hellbeard posted:RichyP Awesome work and great additions to the expanding collection of posts 
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Nov 2, 2013 18:43
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richyp, I added a comment for my blog. I post pretty infrequently, but I usually deal with GW Specialist Games, so maybe it will add a little variety once in a while. I'm not really sure how to label it though - maybe you can categorize it? On an unrelated note, I have a shitload of Zombicide minis to paint now (244 to be exact, not counting dogs,) and have no idea of how to do the bases. The game takes place in a city, so I'll need to replicate concrete and/or asphalt, so standard sand and rubble basing won't look right. I've seen wet/dry sandpaper used as asphalt, but I don't want to have to cut every model off of its base. Any ideas, anyone? berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 23:47 on Nov 2, 2013 |
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Nov 2, 2013 23:45
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berzerkmonkey posted:richyp If there is no limit to funding, then model railroad ballast comes in some fairly fine grit. There are also some Liquitex brand artist mediums that are really fine. You need to water them down until they are runny. At that point they are self leveling. The artist mediums are VERY sticky, so I'd look at the ballast first. If you are looking for spending less, I'll defer to others.It is *possible* to use a putty like milliput grey to fill in textures, but getting it perfectly flat with the mini already attached takes practice.
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Nov 2, 2013 23:57
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berzerkmonkey posted:
I haven't done it myself, but I bet you could use testors filler putty. Just spread it onto the base with a craft stick right out of the tube, it dries into a slightly gritty rough texture that I think would look just like concrete. The stuff is cheap and available at just about any hobby shop.
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Nov 3, 2013 00:15
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berzerkmonkey posted:richyp, I added a comment for my blog. I post pretty infrequently, but I usually deal with GW Specialist Games, so maybe it will add a little variety once in a while. I'm not really sure how to label it though - maybe you can categorize it? If you like the look at the pavement in the last picture here, it's PVA + Woodland Scenics Snow. I flattened it out when the PVA was still hardening, painted it gray, then washed + drybrushed it. It's got a nice gritty texture to it.
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Nov 3, 2013 00:21
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Thanks for the recommendations - I think Iris of Ether's suggestion is the winner. That seems like the cheapest and will take the least amount of effort.
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Nov 3, 2013 02:10
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SUPER NEAT TOY posted:I've tried edge highlighting the weird details on the marine models (specifically referring to the bits at the top of the thigh plates) and I don't think it ever looks good/makes sense. Other than that I think it looks good but I am very bad at painting little mans, but you seem to have even line thickness, etc. Thanks, I think you're right about the thigh (and the forearm would have had similar issues if I had tried to do those). I'll try richyp's advice to see if I can make those areas look good. richyp posted:Look's good, definitely on the right track. If you want to be braver, you could do a slightly lighter highlight inside the existing ones, much smaller though so they don't overpower the model. Also these lighter ones should be done with much thinner paint so you can build up the highlight gently. Thanks for the example, it's very helpful! I'll grab one of my tactical marines tonight or tomorrow and try again.
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Nov 3, 2013 04:27
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This exists: I've been using the sand one for a while and it's pretty great.
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Nov 3, 2013 06:22
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berzerkmonkey posted:richyp, I added a comment for my blog. I post pretty infrequently, but I usually deal with GW Specialist Games, so maybe it will add a little variety once in a while. I'm not really sure how to label it though - maybe you can categorize it? I added you under painting even though there was a lot of gaming entries. It shouldn't matter to much, as hopefully at some point I can find away of importing the original tags from the aggregated blog. Also 71 posts have been added and 4 goons have been setup as content authors directly to https://www.wargameblogs.com in the last 24hrs. If anyone else wants get involved, or knows someone who has gaming/painting blogs/wants to contribute in some way check out the sticky post.
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Nov 3, 2013 08:59
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I'd be interested in getting involved, as I've been meaning to properly blog my painting for some time, but I kind of suck at painting - is there space for that kind of thing?
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Nov 3, 2013 09:31
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thespaceinvader posted:I'd be interested in getting involved, as I've been meaning to properly blog my painting for some time, but I kind of suck at painting - is there space for that kind of thing? Everyone's welcome. If you want your own blog but want to add the posts to the group one, just setup a blog with Wordpress/Blogger etc... and when its ready send me a link to its feed. If you want to add posts directly to the group one I can set you up as an author on there instead. It's your call.
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Nov 3, 2013 09:40
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I'd probably prefer to go with an author account, actually. I'll post a comment on that post about joining.
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Nov 3, 2013 10:29
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I would consider signing up but I don't paint often, and I don't paint well. So I'll settle for wishing you all luck.
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Nov 3, 2013 10:55
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I've decided to try to make a second founding chapter and chose the Praetors of Orpheus because I liked their colour scheme. This is my test model from the Chaplain-Rhino command squad box (which is why he has the Terminator Honours pauldron and a blue veteran's helmet). I'm pretty happy with the blue, but I'm concerned the the white seems too grey or even duck-egg blue. I used the guide for painting White Scars: Ulthuan Grey Base -> Agrax Earthshade Wash -> Tidy up with Ulthuan again -> Highlight with White Scar. In the magazine it looks beautifully white; but it seems less pearly when I did it. Am I doing something wrong? Would a dark base make it seem whiter? Or is it just fine and I am just losing perspective after staring at various shades of off-white for the last few hours? Any other comments or criticisms are welcome     
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Nov 3, 2013 10:59
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First things first, paint the base of the model. You'll never be able to get an accurate opinion without at least painting the rim and flat of the base (you don't have to texture it yet). Second, I think if you want to lighten it the best route would be to maybe mix Ulthuan and White Scar and layer that on before moving to pure highlights. But honestly, looking at your model and my (much messier) Mentor test model using the same white method, I'd say your base is throwing the balance off.
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Nov 3, 2013 11:04
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:First things first, paint the base of the model. You'll never be able to get an accurate opinion without at least painting the rim and flat of the base (you don't have to texture it yet). Second, I think if you want to lighten it the best route would be to maybe mix Ulthuan and White Scar and layer that on before moving to pure highlights. But honestly, looking at your model and my (much messier) Mentor test model using the same white method, I'd say your base is throwing the balance off. Thanks I'll do that. Do you think the darkness of the base will matter much? As in a light sandy base vs. dark muddy base? Edit: Here's the same with the base coated in Steel Legion Drab:    Zengbo fucked around with this message at 11:28 on Nov 3, 2013 |
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Nov 3, 2013 11:14
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