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SamDabbers posted:I'll take a look if you pastebin a sanitized config, including your (also sanitized) .ovpn file. Awesome. Here is my .ovpn config file. http://pastebin.com/02vShW6S Here is the sanitized config file for the router. http://pastebin.com/HZ7FAt4h
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# ? May 14, 2014 23:05 |
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# ? Apr 29, 2024 16:22 |
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Noxious posted:Awesome. Here is my .ovpn config file. The ISP DNS servers may be configured to only respond to requests coming from customers on their network, so when your DNS queries go out through the VPN provider you get no response. Try setting the DNS servers manually, and telling the router not to use the ones your ISP pushes via DHCP: code:
code:
SamDabbers fucked around with this message at 02:27 on May 15, 2014 |
# ? May 15, 2014 02:13 |
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SamDabbers posted:The ISP DNS servers may be configured to only respond to requests coming from customers on their network, so when your DNS queries go out through the VPN provider you get no response. Try setting the DNS servers manually, and telling the router not to use the ones your ISP pushes via DHCP: That worked really well. Thanks! I'm not seeing very good download speeds with the VPN though. The upload is great, in fact it's sometimes better than what I get with the ISP directly. As to the firewall tip. Thanks for that, I didn't really think about that but it makes sense. Especially since VPN's are traditionally a way to circumvent firewalls in the first place.
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# ? May 15, 2014 16:19 |
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Noxious posted:That worked really well. Thanks! I'm not seeing very good download speeds with the VPN though. The upload is great, in fact it's sometimes better than what I get with the ISP directly. Yeah, the CPU on the EdgeRouter isn't powerful enough to push more than ~12-15mbps with OpenVPN. You'll get better performance with an IPsec VPN, since that can use the hardware encryption offload, but the ERL doesn't have L2TP client functionality (yet) so it won't work with the typical L2TP/IPsec setup used by VPN services.
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# ? May 15, 2014 18:05 |
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Crotch Fruit posted:Less than an hour later, a foreign MAC address was already connected and flooding my router's log with failed admin login attempts. Turn off remote administration.
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# ? May 15, 2014 19:28 |
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So I am moving to a new place and am having fios setup. I currently have comcast cable and am trying to figure out what hardware I am going to need at my new place. With comcast, my setup goes coax from wall -> cable modem -> buffalo router -> my devices. How does fios work? Where does the media conversion take place and what is it after that? coax?
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# ? May 15, 2014 21:03 |
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I have a router with a public IP X.X.X.X, and NATed subnet 10.1.0.0/24. Port Y is forwarded to 10.1.0.2 : Y. When 10.1.0.3 attempts to connect to X.X.X.X : Y, it goes through the gateway/router at 10.1.0.1, which correctly changes the destination of the packet to 10.1.0.2, but the source address is still 10.1.0.3, so the responses from 10.1.0.2 do not get routed properly or whatever and the connection times out. I feel like I'm missing something really simple here, but I'm spending way too much time figuring it out. Edit: Okay, I had to add some iptables commands to the dd-wrt firewall script to enable something called 'nat loopback' or 'nat reflection' or something. It works now. Illusive Fuck Man fucked around with this message at 21:32 on May 15, 2014 |
# ? May 15, 2014 21:11 |
cr0y posted:So I am moving to a new place and am having fios setup. I currently have comcast cable and am trying to figure out what hardware I am going to need at my new place. With comcast, my setup goes coax from wall -> cable modem -> buffalo router -> my devices. How does fios work? Where does the media conversion take place and what is it after that? coax? In my case, the fiber was terminated on the side of the house. From there they gave me the option of coax or ethernet to where ever I wanted in my house. They supplied a 4 port wireless router. The installer did say that by provisioning ethernet I would be able to replace their equipment (router) with anything I wanted down the road. I would suggest going that route if you have the option.
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# ? May 15, 2014 21:13 |
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Tantalus posted:In my case, the fiber was terminated on the side of the house. From there they gave me the option of coax or ethernet to where ever I wanted in my house. They supplied a 4 port wireless router. The installer did say that by provisioning ethernet I would be able to replace their equipment (router) with anything I wanted down the road. I would suggest going that route if you have the option. I think I have to come in with coax since I am getting television as well but I would like to avoid being locked into renting some garbage equipment from verizon when I have my own nice routers and whatnot.
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# ? May 15, 2014 21:47 |
cr0y posted:I think I have to come in with coax since I am getting television as well but I would like to avoid being locked into renting some garbage equipment from verizon when I have my own nice routers and whatnot. I would check with your installer and see what he can do. Also, they don't make you rent their equipment, which is nice.
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# ? May 15, 2014 22:12 |
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Illusive gently caress Man posted:Edit: Okay, I had to add some iptables commands to the dd-wrt firewall script to enable something called 'nat loopback' or 'nat reflection' or something. It works now. DD-wrt used to have NAT loopback enabled by default. Now they make you add it to your firewall script. It's kind of a bummer to have to find these things out while troubleshooting new problems. One thing I found out about DD-wrt recently is that it won't route traffic from outside the primary subnet to WAN. So by your example, if you add a device to 10.1.1.1 it'll be able to communicate with other clients on the LAN side by not out onto the WAN without an extra firewall rule.
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# ? May 15, 2014 23:53 |
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CuddleChunks posted:Turn off remote administration. I did disable remote admin. The foreign MAC address showed up as one of the wifi connected devices despite me setting up WPA2 and disabling WPS. In the meantime, I switched back to an ancient WRT54G v8 running stock Linksys firmware and I haven't seen my neighbor's laptop connecting to my wifi again. So, apparently one of my not-so-friendly neighbors has found a way to get into my WNDR3400. I can either keep trying to mess with settings (which probably won't do poo poo), convert to DD-WRT, or buy a new router. I am liking the new router option the most because I would really like to have gigabit, but I see the OP was last edited in November 2012. Should I still use that list of routers or should I buy something else?
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# ? May 16, 2014 00:20 |
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cr0y posted:I think I have to come in with coax since I am getting television as well but I would like to avoid being locked into renting some garbage equipment from verizon when I have my own nice routers and whatnot. If you have TV service you are going to be coax. They provide you with their router but they don't charge a monthly fee for it (at least that's how it works where I am with Frontier). The older versions of the routers had ridiculously small NAT tables that would crap out the internet if you torrent or play online games, but the newer ones are supposedly okay. There are a variety of workarounds to use your own router and still have the provided router pump-out info to the Set-Top Boxes for on-screen TV guides, but I do not have experience with this (I have internet only wired via ethernet). http://www.dslreports.com/faq/16233 http://www.dslreports.com/faq/verizonfios/3.0_Networking#16077
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# ? May 16, 2014 17:14 |
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Networking newby here, I'm looking to upgrade my cave with a wireless access point of it's own, since it's just out of range of the rest of the house's wireless. My desktop computer is connected to the network via a Netcomm powerline network, and I'm trying to find a wireless router but beyond dual band, all the technical jargon is defeating me. I just want something that will plug in between between my powerline network plug and my computer - can anyone give me an idea of what to go for/avoid?
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# ? May 17, 2014 17:32 |
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Jotunn posted:Networking newby here, It sounds like for your application you don't really want a router, but an access point and switch (or a combo) since presumably you have a router on the other end of the powerline network. You can use certain routers for this task provided they let you turn off certain features. I don't have a specific recommendation for an access point however. I made you this terrible graphic representing your network.
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# ? May 17, 2014 18:04 |
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The OP hasn't been updated in like 2 years, so are there any <$100 AC routers that aren't a giant piece of poo poo yet? I don't really need one right now, but here's the scenario: parents need something with AP, client and repeater functionality, which my ancient AirLive 5460AP does perfectly fine, so we agreed that I'll give it to them and they'll throw me some money toward an upgrade. I don't have any AC devices right now, but I know if I don't get a faster router now, I'll never upgrade it until it shits itself (that's how I have a 10 year old router now). I was very happy with the features, stability and flexibility of the 5460 so at first I thought to just update to AP60 but sadly it's n-only and Ethernet is just 10/100 as well. Basically here's what I'd like to have:
Does such a beast exist? I can see a few affordable devices (D-Link DIR-810L, Zyxel NBG6503, Edimax BR-6478AC and Linksys EA6300 for instance) but as far as I can tell their functionality is quite limited.
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# ? May 18, 2014 17:28 |
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mobby_6kl posted:The OP hasn't been updated in like 2 years, so are there any <$100 AC routers that aren't a giant piece of poo poo yet? I don't really need one right now, but here's the scenario: parents need something with AP, client and repeater functionality, which my ancient AirLive 5460AP does perfectly fine, so we agreed that I'll give it to them and they'll throw me some money toward an upgrade. I don't have any AC devices right now, but I know if I don't get a faster router now, I'll never upgrade it until it shits itself (that's how I have a 10 year old router now). I don't know, but avoid the Asus RT-AC56U. I was about to recommend it but there are apparently significant connectivity issues when using it at 2.4ghz. My Asus rt-AC66R has been fine and it has all the features you want, newegg is currently selling it refurbished for $130 but I have seen it on sale for $110. Because it's refurbished it only has a 90 day warranty though.
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# ? May 18, 2014 20:38 |
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SamDabbers posted:Yeah, the CPU on the EdgeRouter isn't powerful enough to push more than ~12-15mbps with OpenVPN. You'll get better performance with an IPsec VPN, since that can use the hardware encryption offload, but the ERL doesn't have L2TP client functionality (yet) so it won't work with the typical L2TP/IPsec setup used by VPN services. That makes sense. Is it possible I might be able to use a debian package to set up the L2TP/IPsec? It seems like you can run a lot of debian packages on the router. Since I might not be seeing the kind of speeds I would like is it possible to only divert a particular DHCP client computer through the VPN and have everyone else go through the normal channel? Would that fix my speed problem? Is the best solution to run the VPN from my network linux server and somehow direct everything through the tunnel created by that?
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# ? May 19, 2014 03:35 |
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Crotch Fruit posted:I did disable remote admin. The foreign MAC address showed up as one of the wifi connected devices despite me setting up WPA2 and disabling WPS. In the meantime, I switched back to an ancient WRT54G v8 running stock Linksys firmware and I haven't seen my neighbor's laptop connecting to my wifi again. So, apparently one of my not-so-friendly neighbors has found a way to get into my WNDR3400. I can either keep trying to mess with settings (which probably won't do poo poo), convert to DD-WRT, or buy a new router. Is there a reason you don't just throw DD-WRT on your WNDR3400? Can you disable wireless admin access, or is that not an option for you? I'm the farthest thing from an expert on any of this, but I just replaced my Linksys WRT54-GL (running Tomato) which I've had since April 2008 with an Asus RT-N66U. I made my choice simply because I wanted the option of putting Tomato on it, since my WRT54-GL has been absolutely rock solid running it. I know that there are AC routers out there, but I wasn't sure about how mature Tomato was on the AC routers; from my amateur perspective it seemed like it was still in the more developmental stages. The price of the AC hardware was also a bit of a turn off since I didn't know for sure how Tomato would be on it. I don't know how much the RT-N66U was when the OP was written/updated, but it's about $125 on Amazon. The RT-N66W is a couple bucks cheaper, and I think the internals are the same, so Tomato can be put on it just the same. My Aunty's house has a Apple AirPort Extreme (not the current one) but having to use Apple's software to manage it compared to just opening up a browser like everything else drives me fuckin nuts.
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# ? May 19, 2014 04:07 |
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I recently moved from an apartment to a house and my Time Capsule WiFi doesn't reach the whole house with decent strength. Should I just put up another access point with the same SSID? From what I heard, clients will stay connected to whichever AP they started with unless they disconnect. That won't happen. I've heard some access points can pass clients between themselves when they work together. I'm on a tight budget so I don't want to go crazy here. Any suggestions?
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# ? May 19, 2014 04:55 |
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Boner Wad posted:I recently moved from an apartment to a house and my Time Capsule WiFi doesn't reach the whole house with decent strength. Should I just put up another access point with the same SSID? This works, remember to turn off DHCP on your other Access point. quote:From what I heard, clients will stay connected to whichever AP they started with unless they disconnect. That won't happen. Pretty much, from what I know wifi clients do not know how to "jump" to a stronger signal and handoff to another SSID unless... quote:I've heard some access points can pass clients between themselves when they work together. I'm on a tight budget so I don't want to go crazy here. You use some enterprise level wifi. The cheapest prosumer model out there is the Ubiquiti Unifi N. It proclaims "zero handoff" between different SSID's.
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# ? May 19, 2014 05:17 |
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THF13 posted:I don't know, but avoid the Asus RT-AC56U. I was about to recommend it but there are apparently significant connectivity issues when using it at 2.4ghz. Thanks, it seems that the RT-AC66R/U is a bit over the budget locally but I'll keep an eye out for sales, although unfortunately I'll need to pull the trigger on something sooner rather than later.
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# ? May 19, 2014 12:31 |
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Scott808 posted:Is there a reason you don't just throw DD-WRT on your WNDR3400? Can you disable wireless admin access, or is that not an option for you? My understanding is that the current version of dd-wrt was released a few years ago, has it been updated in the meantime? Why have people switched to tomato, is dd-wrt still good? Flashing dd-wrt on the WNDR3400 is an option I considered, and it would be the cheapest solution, but it would not get me gigabit. In the end, I decided to order a refurbished Netgear R6300 for $85. Now to cross my fingers and hope it's a good router, or learn how to use Amazon's return policy.
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# ? May 19, 2014 20:46 |
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I just moved and I've now got a dying Netgear router that I'm looking to switch off of. Can anyone recommend whether the Asus RT-N66U or the Linksys E4200 would be a better choice, for running Tomato, in a large home? I don't really care about the price difference.
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# ? May 19, 2014 23:27 |
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Crotch Fruit posted:My understanding is that the current version of dd-wrt was released a few years ago, has it been updated in the meantime? Why have people switched to tomato, is dd-wrt still good? Flashing dd-wrt on the WNDR3400 is an option I considered, and it would be the cheapest solution, but it would not get me gigabit. In the end, I decided to order a refurbished Netgear R6300 for $85. Now to cross my fingers and hope it's a good router, or learn how to use Amazon's return policy. I meant more in the interim of deciding on a new router; it would probably at least be able to stop your neighbor from loving with your router, no? In my own case, I never switched to Tomato, unless switching from stock firmware counts. I don't remember why I chose it, but it was probably because it looked the least daunting to do at the time. Now that there's all the various forks and builds of Tomato they seem more DD-WRT like in that way. It was still quite easy to get Tomato by Shibby onto the RT-N66U, except I had no idea how long it would take to restart after the flash; one guide said 5 minutes, another said 15. I started trying to get to it in the browser after 5, and it didn't respond. After a few more minutes the flash completed and it turned out just fine. I did flash a few spare Linksys WRTSL54GS routers with DD-WRT a couple years ago at work. I don't remember the process well, but it wasn't too bad. None of these see consistent, heavy use, but when they are used, no issues.
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# ? May 20, 2014 00:45 |
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Smegmalicious posted:So I moved and I'm looking to ditch my Comcast modem/router because it seems to be basically garbage. The OP says just to get whatever modem because they're all crap, but I'm wondering if there are any that are slightly less crap. Also I had been using an Airport Extreme Base Station and I'm curious if I should get another one or if there's a better option for hassle free wireless. Also is the 5th generation still the preferred base station or is the newer one good? Didn't see this answered and search seems to be busted atm. I'm moving into a new condo in just over a week and am looking to buy a modem for use with their Blast tier. I have some Belkin Wireless N router sitting around that I can use, so I am good there. There's a few manufacturers listed on their approved modem page for this tier but all I really know from previous experience is that Zoom is garbage. If they are all equally bad I guess I'll just go with one of the random Motorola ones. I have no real special use cases beyond that I will only be paying for internet and streaming to my Roku for TV watching. I'd very much appreciate any information to lighten the burden of a first move!
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# ? May 20, 2014 05:19 |
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Incredulous Dylan posted:Didn't see this answered and search seems to be busted atm. I'm moving into a new condo in just over a week and am looking to buy a modem for use with their Blast tier. I have some Belkin Wireless N router sitting around that I can use, so I am good there. There's a few manufacturers listed on their approved modem page for this tier but all I really know from previous experience is that Zoom is garbage. If they are all equally bad I guess I'll just go with one of the random Motorola ones. I have no real special use cases beyond that I will only be paying for internet and streaming to my Roku for TV watching. I'd very much appreciate any information to lighten the burden of a first move! I've got a Motorola SB6141 on Time Warner's 50/5 tier and haven't had any issues with it. It's been several years, but I've also used a Motorola Surfboard with Comcast in the past without any problems. (I want to say it was SB5120, but it was seriously like 5+ years ago, so who knows.) I'd say any of the Motorolas would be a safe bet.
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# ? May 20, 2014 05:39 |
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Great - thanks for the info!
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# ? May 20, 2014 05:58 |
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My second poo poo-tastic WNR3500L has gone bad (I got them for free). The OP hasn't been updated in 2 years. Is the RT-N66U still a good buy? I've seen it mentioned a few times over the past few pages.
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# ? May 20, 2014 07:50 |
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Xenomorph posted:My second poo poo-tastic WNR3500L has gone bad (I got them for free). How important is AC to you? The RT-N66U is not AC capable, so from that perspective it's already outdated. If you want an AC router and don't mind spending the cash I'd probably be looking at the Asus RT-AC66U, RT-AC68U, or the Netgear Nighthawk R7000. I explained my reasons for choosing the RT-N66U a few posts up, but those reasons may not apply or be important to you.
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# ? May 20, 2014 09:24 |
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AC also improves the 5Ghz range by quite a lot even if you are just using N due to the beam forming in the spec.
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# ? May 20, 2014 09:58 |
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Scott808 posted:How important is AC to you? The RT-N66U is not AC capable, so from that perspective it's already outdated. If you want an AC router and don't mind spending the cash I'd probably be looking at the Asus RT-AC66U, RT-AC68U, or the Netgear Nighthawk R7000. I have an 802.11/ac MacBook Pro (late 2013), so I'd really like AC. I have one of those new Apple Airport Extreme setups at work, and I get 800 Mbps - 1300 Mbps connections to it. I wasn't happy with its lack of web interface or configurable options. See, I guess this is sort of how the OP is a bit old. I've read that the ASUS firmware is insane with the number of options it has (negating a need to go with DD-WRT). Half of my lovely routers have been cheap Netgears, so I'd like to avoid them. Maybe I should just get the RT-AC68U... I just want to plug it in and have uninterrupted WiFi and Ethernet networking and routing with 500+ day uptime. Is that so hard? I'm using a WNR3500L right now. Free from the FCC/SamKnows. 64MB RAM, Gigabit ethernet. It ran fine for about a year, then it stopped routing and needed a reboot. Then it needed another reboot 6 months later. Then it needed another reboot 1 month later. Then every week. Now it cannot go a day without power-cycling it. I have two WNR3500L routers. I contacted SamKnows about the first not working and they sent me another. Now like clockwork, the second one is dying. I had a WRT54GL w/ Tomato before (which I never rebooted), but it couldn't route faster than 20-something megabit, and my Charter connection is 30+ Mbps. It was limiting my speed. As I'm typing this, I'm tethered through my iPhone, because the WNR3500L "died" again.
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# ? May 20, 2014 13:02 |
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It looks like there will be more changes on the way for 802.11ac to stop wasting bandwidth. Primarily it is aimed at solving wireless slow down associated with slow devices connecting or staying connected to a wireless network. http://arstechnica.com/information-technology/2014/05/wi-fi-networks-are-wasting-a-gigabit-but-multi-user-beamforming-will-save-the-day/
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# ? May 20, 2014 21:40 |
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Can anyone say whether the billion bipac 7800dx can justify its premium pricing? (~£160 here in the UK). It seems an awful lot to pay for a router, particularly with ac routers here/just around the corner, but I'm ashamedly seduced but its chunky looks, it looks sturdy - which I understand isn't really an important feature for a router.... I've been pretty well served by a tp-link wr1043nd running ddwrt for a few years now. But I've recently added a few more devices to the network as well as fiddling around but failing to get IPTV multi casting to work with ddwrt. I don't know whether its the new devices (incl a couple of networked/wireless speakers) or the messing I did for the multicasting but things just aren't as reliable as they have been previously. And I can't be bothered wasting more time on the multicasting only to find the router is always going to struggle with all the new traffic. The OP is oldish so I don't really know what's a good recommendation at the moment? I use the VPN server on ddwrt some times. Looking more for WiFi stability/bandwidth rather than distance. I don't know which of my devices are 5ghz, I should probably look in to that. There'll be a couple of switches branching off the router too, so decent lan to go with the wlan. The the above IPTV multicasting compatibility too. And i like to sperg name ALL the connected devices and set static IPs by Mac, but I'd imagine that's pretty standard even beyond ddwrt? Can I save myself a few quid, or is splashing out on the bipac worth it?
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# ? May 20, 2014 21:46 |
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sbyers77 posted:I work for a small company with less than 5 employees for the day-to-day, but we have a fairly complicated network that consumer routers can't seem to keep up with. We have about 6-10 hardwired computers (depending on the day) distributed on a variety of switches, a half dozen VoIP phones from 8x8, a half dozen network printers, and about a dozen WiFi clients between cell phones and laptops. Quoting myself here, but I ended up going with the RT-N66U and flashed Tomato by Shibby on it. Really happy so far, highly impressed by the router. It has some noticeable heft because it has an internal heat-sink. I had the same issue others had with the firmware flash taking a long time to complete, but once it was done it worked fine. (Another note: I've read its more-or-less impossible to brick this router with a failed flash, it always reverts back to a flashable state, which is nice.) I really like Tomato. It's simple yet powerful. And it seems to be on of the few firmwares that are still actively developed (I don't get dd-wrt, it is still "pre SP2" which was initially released 2012?). The RT-N66U is awesome and I would recommend it.
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# ? May 21, 2014 00:28 |
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I had an interesting problem come to me today. Suffice to say, someone I know is going to be locking down their home network so a member of the household is completely unable to access the Internet. Imagine an "unofficial house arrest" situation. Network security is not my strong suit, so I'm coming here for help. Some assumptions up front: - Other wireless networks in range of the house are all password-protected. - The problem person will not have access to any cellular device which can be used to tether. I will be providing them with more detail, but I have the following steps outlined so far: 1. Change the router username/password from the default (if they aren't already) and change them again. 2. Make sure the wireless network is secured with a password and WPA2 / AES. 3. Set up wireless MAC filtering and only explicitly allow certain devices. The biggest problem I'm seeing with this is the router still has 4 ethernet ports. I can't see a clear way to prevent someone from plugging in a computer and going to town. The Linksys control panel has "Access Restrictions," but it's really unclear how these might interact. For example, if they set a policy to block all IP addresses all the time and then another policy to allow access for an explicit set of devices all the time... which takes precedence? The router firmware help is not very helpful. Any thoughts are appreciated!
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# ? May 21, 2014 02:43 |
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I would think that if this person has physical access to the router, that they'd just be able to reset it anyway and do what they want (assuming that they have any sort of tech savvy). So I would think that access to the ethernet ports would be moot point?
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# ? May 21, 2014 02:54 |
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The refurbished Asus RT-AC66R (which is exactly the same as the AC66U) I said to keep an eye on for sales just yesterday is already on sale on newegg for $105 with free shipping. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833320157&Tpk=N82E16833320157 Great router but you're out of luck if it dies past the 90 day warranty.
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# ? May 21, 2014 03:14 |
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/291131706322?lpid=82 Epoxy or lock the router in a room.
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# ? May 21, 2014 03:17 |
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# ? Apr 29, 2024 16:22 |
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I just grabbed the RT-AC68U. This fucker probably costs as much as what all my other routers cost, combined.
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# ? May 21, 2014 05:40 |