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Left Ventricle posted:
Exactly. I could get the kids to school so much faster in that thing.
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May 16, 2014 02:36
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Durrr, yeah. I love that car, too! What's not to like about a supercharged V8 RWD manual transmission station wagon?
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Snowdens Secret posted:What's the difference between single and double platinum, and how do you install a spark plug backwards? Closest I can imagine is the two locations have different temp ranges, but I'm unsure how that would work. The ignition system uses two spark plugs wired in series to fire their cylinders in pairs. In a single platinum plug, the platinum bit is on only on the receiving end of the spark. This is done on the factory line to cut costs. Single platinum plugs for this ignition system then come in two separate part numbers, depending on which side of the circuit and thus the head. Based on the wear pattern of these plugs, it looks as if the spark had been obliterating opposite sides of the plug, as though they were installed all opposite like. Double platinum plugs have the platinum bits on both sides of the plug gap, and therefore the same part number can be ran in all 8 holes. Platinum. 
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May 16, 2014 04:58
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I was trying to figure out what strange and modern Ford 4 cylinder engine used a dual spark plug system and then found out they just retrofitted a million year old Pinto engine with it. Now that's the Ford I know.
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May 16, 2014 05:38
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Panty Saluter posted:Yeah, that's pretty much where mine was. Hit a BIG puddle once (it was basically invisible in the conditions) and stalled the engine. Once it dried out it was fine (maybe the distributor just got hosed? idk) but that was a scary day. Did the same, except the "stall" was more "windowed the block". Same air filter location (well, passenger side because Honda), same missing splash guard.
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May 16, 2014 05:56
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some texas redneck posted:Did the same, except the "stall" was more "windowed the block". I work for Audi, and we had a good bit of rain last week, and some bright customer managed to get their 3.0T to inhale enough water to break a rod, effectively destroying the block and supercharger. Had to break out all the special tools (even the special magic table) to tear into this motor. Pays awesome though 
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May 16, 2014 06:48
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8ender posted:I was trying to figure out what strange and modern Ford 4 cylinder engine used a dual spark plug system and then found out they just retrofitted a million year old Pinto engine with it. Now that's the Ford I know. The engine in that ford 'Ka' was an ancient escort/cortina lump with a plastic efi manifold bolted on.
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May 16, 2014 07:15
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DrPain posted:The ignition system uses two spark plugs wired in series to fire their cylinders in pairs. In a single platinum plug, the platinum bit is on only on the receiving end of the spark. This is done on the factory line to cut costs. Single platinum plugs for this ignition system then come in two separate part numbers, depending on which side of the circuit and thus the head. Based on the wear pattern of these plugs, it looks as if the spark had been obliterating opposite sides of the plug, as though they were installed all opposite like. Double platinum plugs have the platinum bits on both sides of the plug gap, and therefore the same part number can be ran in all 8 holes. The 1MZ-FE V6 in my Camry takes these loving $10 a piece crazy double pronged Denso or (What I have in there) NGK Laser Platinum plugs: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...03435&ppt=C0334 Looks like gimmicky nonsense but the double side electrodes reduce the amount of wear in a waste spark system.
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May 16, 2014 12:50
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Vanagoon posted:The 1MZ-FE V6 in my Camry takes these loving $10 a piece crazy double pronged Denso or (What I have in there) NGK Laser Platinum plugs: Eh, I'm not a fan of multi pronged plugs either. True, they will wear twice as long, but I'm always afraid that excess electrode metal will get red hot and cause detonation. That's (part of) the way our Lightning engine died, but it was also supercharged. Probably not as big a concern in naturally aspirated engines, but it still makes me cautious. Super Aggro Crag posted:Different brand, same placement. And my splash guard is ripped off. At least I have a hydroshield over the air filter. I'd like to qualify my previous post about air filters. I see from this picture, the way you have your piping routed, it actually makes sense because you are pulling cold air from in front of the vehicle. I have no problem with this kind of set up, especially for high performance applications where a filter box may not otherwise fit in the engine compartment. K&N gives you a "heat shield" to replace the filter box that does more to draw hot air from the radiator than keep any heat out of your inlet air, and that is where I call bullshit. With that being said, holy poo poo please don't hydrolock your engine  
DrPain fucked around with this message at 16:27 on May 16, 2014 |
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May 16, 2014 16:07
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My buddy asmasm has a 3D printed intake for his Miata that goes over the radiator and pulls air from the bumper mouth. I'm going to try to get it on the dyno and test it out.
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May 16, 2014 16:31
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Vanagoon posted:The 1MZ-FE V6 in my Camry takes these loving $10 a piece crazy double pronged Denso or (What I have in there) NGK Laser Platinum plugs: Eh, you don't have to use the platinum ones. Just remove the "P" from the part number for the corresponding copper plugs. You can get the NGK BKR6EKB-11 for $5/ea or the Denso K20TR11 for $3.50. You'll just have to change them more often since the copper plugs have a shorter lifespan than the platinum plugs. The 5VZ-FE in my 4runner uses the same twin-electrode plugs in a different heat range, the NGK BKR5EKB-11 and the Denso K16TR11. People on the 4runner forums haven't been able to tell any difference in performance between the two, so I go with the Denso plugs. I haven't seen any other cars use a setup quite like the wasted-spark system on the Toyota engines, where the coils are all on one side of the motor and each coil controls the plug it's sitting on and the plug on the opposite side of the engine. Admittedly, I haven't really snooped around under the hood of too many coil-on-plug vehicles, but all the other ones I've seen have one coil per cylinder.
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May 16, 2014 20:45
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bandman posted:Eh, you don't have to use the platinum ones. Just remove the "P" from the part number for the corresponding copper plugs. You can get the NGK BKR6EKB-11 for $5/ea or the Denso K20TR11 for $3.50. You'll just have to change them more often since the copper plugs have a shorter lifespan than the platinum plugs. The 5VZ-FE in my 4runner uses the same twin-electrode plugs in a different heat range, the NGK BKR5EKB-11 and the Denso K16TR11. People on the 4runner forums haven't been able to tell any difference in performance between the two, so I go with the Denso plugs. With how much of a pain in the dick it is to get to the rear plugs on a FWD V6, I'm putting in whatever lasts longest.
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May 16, 2014 21:20
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bandman posted:Eh, you don't have to use the platinum ones. Just remove the "P" from the part number for the corresponding copper plugs. You can get the NGK BKR6EKB-11 for $5/ea or the Denso K20TR11 for $3.50. You'll just have to change them more often since the copper plugs have a shorter lifespan than the platinum plugs. The 5VZ-FE in my 4runner uses the same twin-electrode plugs in a different heat range, the NGK BKR5EKB-11 and the Denso K16TR11. People on the 4runner forums haven't been able to tell any difference in performance between the two, so I go with the Denso plugs. The factory plugs were Denso PK20TR11. I just got the NGK because no one stocks them except the stealer around here. opengl128 posted:With how much of a pain in the dick it is to get to the rear plugs on a FWD V6, I'm putting in whatever lasts longest. This is the god drat truth. gently caress doing this any more than is absolutely necessary.
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May 16, 2014 21:35
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Ugh, I'd forgotten how much of a pain in the rear end it is to get to the rear bank on transverse v6 and v8 engines. I haven't had to do it on our Mazda 6s yet.
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May 16, 2014 23:04
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DrPain posted:
Mine just hangs out in the engine bay but as long as the car is moving I don't think it gets too hot at the inlet. Besides, the stock intake draws from the engine bay and doesn't sound as awesome 
Panty Saluter fucked around with this message at 02:24 on May 18, 2014 |
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May 16, 2014 23:54
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Vanagoon posted:This is the god drat truth. gently caress doing this any more than is absolutely necessary. It's a piece of piss on the 1MZ compared to most. bandman posted:Ugh, I'd forgotten how much of a pain in the rear end it is to get to the rear bank on transverse v6 and v8 engines. I haven't had to do it on our Mazda 6s yet. If it's the same engine as a tribute (don't know poo poo about mazdas) it's actually pretty straightforward. Removing the upper intake manifold sounds like a Really Big Deal to the uninitiated but it's usually designed to be very straightforward and simply doesn't take that long at all. The only part that I hate is they often have a brace on the back of the engine from the manifold to the block or head, these are a huge pain to undo initially because of how tight the bolts always seem to be. I can't speak for american cars but the pictures I've seen don't give me much hope for all the poor cunts that have a GM or chrysler product.
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May 17, 2014 03:47
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Slavvy posted:I can't speak for american cars but the pictures I've seen don't give me much hope for all the poor cunts that have a GM or chrysler product. I seem to remember the manual for my Olds Intrigue (RIP) with a 3800 II called for the top engine mount to be removed, and to rock the engine forward to gain access to the back 3 plugs. Speaking from experience it can be done with just universals and wobble end extensions. Funnily enough doing the plugs on my hemi took just as long since there are 16 of the loving things 
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May 17, 2014 04:18
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Are the stock platinums rated to like 100k change intervals? I've never seen copper plugs last that long.
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May 17, 2014 04:18
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SGNL06 posted:I seem to remember the manual for my Olds Intrigue (RIP) with a 3800 II called for the top engine mount to be removed, and to rock the engine forward to gain access to the back 3 plugs. Speaking from experience it can be done with just universals and wobble end extensions. Funnily enough doing the plugs on my hemi took just as long since there are 16 of the loving things Hahahahaha what. We need a That's GM!' emote or something. Who the christ rivets a window regulator to a door card? GM, apparently.
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May 17, 2014 04:35
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SGNL06 posted:I seem to remember the manual for my Olds Intrigue (RIP) with a 3800 II called for the top engine mount to be removed, and to rock the engine forward to gain access to the back 3 plugs. Speaking from experience it can be done with just universals and wobble end extensions. Funnily enough doing the plugs on my hemi took just as long since there are 16 of the loving things My Impala had the same instructions. It's just two bolts which take all of 10 seconds to undo and gets you a few more inches of space between the engine and the firewall. For anyone not familiar with a W body engine bay:  Under '3800 Series II' is the oil filler cap and on either side of that are two black upside down Y shaped bits of metal. I can't remember if it was the bolts connecting the Y bits to the engine or the ones that join the Y pieces to the big black pieces above the rad. Either way if you ever end up doing plugs on a W body vehicle with a 3800 it's totally worth the effort to remove those two bolts and rotate the engine forward.
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May 17, 2014 05:00
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Sup. This 87 Ford Ranger 2.9L belongs to one of the property maintenance dudes, his name is Larry, but we call him Loud Larry because he is very boisterous. You can always tell when he's on the property by ear alone. If you can't find him, just shout something loud and ridiculous into the parking lot, and he'll respond. This was a gag we started some time ago just to gently caress with him, but now everyone does it.  We're bros with the property super and his dudes, because they all drive pieces of poo poo like this Ranger. We keep their jalopies clunking along as best we can, and they hook us up with parts for our swamp coolers, run interference for us with the tightass property manager, etc... It's a symbiotic relationship, but since my services are unequivocally worth more than theirs, I feel like I come out ahead. A few simple automotive favors/diagnoses here and there have bought me years of favors from them.  This time, Loud Larry needed a smog check. You can see here that his carbon monoxide levels are within passing range, 1.2% maximum, but his hydrocarbons are way up out of the passing range of 220 ppm. We were able to retard the timing enough to get the hydrocarbons into passing range, easy peasy.  A friend of my mother-in-law drives this '07 Eclipse 2.4L, and they are coming up on 100k miles, which is a big maintenance interval for many vehicles. We did a timing belt, spark plugs, transmission service, and oil change on it. While we had it out on a test drive following these repairs, we noted a right rear wheel bearing going out, and gave them a quote to fix that as well. I expect that repair will occur in the next few days.  This is how we cool engines off when they come in hot, but this fan sucks and takes forever to bring a hot engine down to a comfortable wrenching temperature. In preparation for our summer A/C season (which kind of took a backseat the last few weeks, we've had a rash of nice weather unfortunately) I went out and bought a pair of these bad boys.  gently caress yeah. One can never have enough fans in the desert. They put out a ton of air and have outlets for other tools or lights, which is very handy. My plan is to lift a car on the rack enough to slip one fan underneath, and place the other on top of the engine with the hood up, double penetrating that engine bay with nice cold swamp cooled air. This will allow us to work on more cars in less time, and therefore make me more money.  A 2000 Camry came in with a failed smog ticket, check engine light illuminated for code P0440, evap leak. For the uninitiated, the evap system contains evaporated fuel from polluting the earth by scrubbing fuel vapor through a charcoal canister before venting to atmosphere.  The way we test for evap leaks (and other things, but mostly evap leaks) is with this smoke machine. We do this by filling the fuel tank and evap system with smoke, which makes leaks visible to the naked eye. The oil based fluid it burns to produce smoke has a very small molecule, and therefore the smoke will be visible even through the tiniest of leaks. Without dropping the tank, we were able to discern with mirrors and flashlights that our leak is coming from on top of the tank. Anyone well seasoned in Toyota evap systems probably already knows what this means, the rollover valve on top of the tank is a weak point in the system. We've not yet removed the fuel tank for repair, but I can show you with a handy dandy fuel system exploded view diagram.   I've circled the offending parts in need of replacement here. Rollover valve, the hose to it, and gasket. The fuel tank will need to be removed for this job, and the parts are being delivered later today. Once that is done and the tank re-installed, the vehicle will need a drive cycle to set the monitors for smog, and then finally an OBD2 smog check.  CSB's favorite 1990 Jeep Cherokee Wagoneer came in on the back of a tow truck. The owner had stopped by last week to brag about how well it had been running ever since the headgasket repair, so naturally a week later it quit on him doing 75mph down the freeway.  We traced the problem to a bad fuel pump, and replaced the whole assembly. CSB will be happy to know that we were able to convince the customer into replacing his neutral safety switch, also pictured, below fuel pump. The hack job momentary push button to the starter we installed decades ago was starting to fall apart, and we had also figured out in the course of our diagnosis of the fuel pump that starting the vehicle with that button does not command the fuel pump on the same as turning the ignition on with the key. This combined with finding an aftermarket replacement NSS at a decent price was enough to get the job sold.  This '02 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo belongs to a very well established customer. We put a new (reman'd) 4.0L engine in it a few years ago, and have been taking care of it ever since. This time around the customer noticed some leaks in their driveway of the antifreeze variety.   If you look very closely at the top tube, you can see where it split in this picture. We installed a new performance brand radiator with the engine, and although it's technically out of the warranty period, Performance is a great company to deal with and is sending me a warranty replacement free of charge. They will also be paying a labor claim to cover the mechanics wages. These are the kinds of things which keep my business with them, and I cannot speak highly enough of their quality and integrity. This is only the second warranty radiator we've ever had to do from performance, their parts are usually pretty good quality, but when they aren't the company stands behind them with an iron clad warranty and I really appreciate that.  A 94 Taurus came in for an oil change, smog check, and complaints of drivers door exterior handle inoperable. Newguy dutifully did the oil change, and stood by the machine while my father-in-law smogged it, as he is not a smog tech yet, but will be soon. Newguy pulled the door panel apart to investigate the handle inop complaint, and found the rod connecting to the handle had broken loose. He was shown how to repair this fairly common issue, and performed the repair himself. He's coming along well in terms of skill and experience, but I feel he's getting a little too comfortable. Things like borrowing tools from the shop, showing up late, getting the tire pressures wrong on my wife's Acura, etc... I'm going to have a performance review meeting with him at the end of this week to encourage his progress and address my concerns, but he's definitely progressing better than I expected. Finally, I did some further minor modification to my '96 Ranger. I removed the mud flaps, or at least I tried to.  The hardware which fastens them to the body were rusted shut and completely frozen in place. No amount of penetrating lubricant or tools seemed to make them budge. My father-in-law being a fabricator as well as mechanic had a pretty great idea, just cut them off.  It's also a good way to check for fuel leaks    Once I get my headlights and grille done I'll be done with the exterior.  Also some rear end in a top hat city pigeon must have been constipated for a few days, or perhaps he was holding it in special just for me, but for whatever reason he took an enormous poo poo right in the middle of my hood. We've got a minor pigeon problem in our parking lot, the assholes who live in the houses behind the shop feed them every morning. I've tried talking to the homeowners and tried to explain how feeding pests is not a good idea but they are ~*ANIMAL LOVERS*~. I've got a soft spot for cuddly things, as I mentioned, but to hell with these flying rat pigeons. Property management is a bunch of pussies and won't poison them, the most they have offered to do is install those nonsense ultrasonic pigeon repellents but those don't do poo poo. I doubt a BB rifle would go over well with my neighbors, but sometimes vigilante justice must be done. Nobody shits on my hood and gets away with it.
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May 20, 2014 22:03
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Spoke too soon, as I was writing the above post they got the fuel tank out of that '00 Camry.  This is part of the problem, cracked gasket for the rollover valve.  The other part of the problem, stiff/broken o-rings in the hose to the valve. All of it will be getting replaced, even though this valve itself is probably not failed yet, it would really suck to pull this fuel tank out a year from now for the same code.
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May 20, 2014 22:33
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Hello... Is this thing on??   An '07 GMC Yukon Denali came by yesterday for a smog check, we hooked it up to the machine and the test was rejected for having 3 monitors unset. Those monitors being for the O2 heater, O2 sensor, and Evap system. The customer is willfully ignorant about the service history of their vehicle, and claims that the most recent repair was a replacement cam shaft about a week ago. I asked specifically if they meant cam shaft POSITION SENSOR, which they categorically denied and insisted that one of the cams itself had been replaced. I'm not sure who had been doing this work, but the engine looks to have never been apart.  By that I mean the grime and dust on the necessary bits (timing cover, for instance) to replace a cam shaft matches the amount and direction of the grime and dust on the engine block. The engine does not have hand prints in the dust, none of the screws holding things down look to have been removed recently, I cannot logically believe the customer's insistence that a cam was replaced. So clearly somebody has either been lying to and overcharging this customer, or they are just an idiot, or perhaps both.  ANYWAY. The battery had obviously been disconnected when it was last worked on, so we asked them to leave the vehicle overnight with us so that we may put a drive cycle on it from a cold start. We performed a drive cycle on it this morning, with newguy riding shotgun so he can learn him a thing or two about drive cycles, and got 2/3 remaining monitors set for O2 heater and O2 sensor. That's good enough for the State of Nevada to take their registration dollars again for another year, and so we got it passed smog for a nominal fee. I tried to explain to the customer what we had found under their hood re: cam shaft replacement, but they got this kind of glazed look in their eye and started texting somebody, looking up every so often to give me an "uh huh, OK". Whatever. If you want to be willfully ignorant about your vehicle that's fine, so long as you don't bitch about our bill and they didn't.  That same '07 Eclipse came back today for the previously diagnosed wheel bearing. The wheel bearing is built into an assembly with the hub on this specific vehicle, and that really made replacement a cinch.  The offending bearing/hub assembly in question, there.  This '06 GMC Yukon also arrived today with complaints of brake squealing on the front. The front pads are indeed worn down under 10% and squeaking as designed to alert the driver of their ailing condition, but the rear brakes were much worse.  The rear brakes were worn down into the metal backing plate, and grinding against the rear rotors. The customer could not afford our price on brakes all around with rotors in the rear, and instead opted to do only brakes with rotors in the rear, and sell the vehicle ASAP. I made extra double sure to include a stern warning about the condition of the front brakes on the invoice, and also verbally to the customer so they understand that a few good emergency stops could put the front brakes into a similar metal on metal situation. They understood, signed the invoice, and were sent on their merry way. I fully expect to get a phone call from them in a month or so to schedule front brakes with rotors.  This is a terrible picture of a terrible car. This loving piece of poo poo '02 VW Newbeetle rolled in under it's own power (barely) with complaints of stalling and check engine light. The codes retrieved indicated an intermittent problem with the cam position sensor or circuit. The customer could not leave it with us today for repair, but I believe this to be a heat related failure of the cam position sensor, hence the intermittent signal. The technical staff of course wants to do a few more confirmation tests before getting rear end in a top hat deep in a Newbeetle, and I wholeheartedly agree. The vehicle will return early next week for further diagnosis and repair.  Newguy's dad brought his '10 Chrysler 300 back today for another round of abuse. After replacing the injector on #5 last time around did nothing to help his problem, we're going to be tearing down that half of the engine to inspect the valvetrain and potentially removing that cylinder head depending on how deep the problem lies.  Newguy put one of my new fans on it before he started wrenching and it makes me all fuzzy  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5PPiL_ElnmU We tore down the valve cover on the bank in question containing #5 cyl, and bumped the starter a few times to see what the valves were doing. Upon further inspection, we have found the valve rocker wearing a groove in the pedestal. I managed to capture the "eureka!" moment on video, and that's pretty cool, but holy drat say no to portrait filming. I'll try to make sure my future videos get filmed in landscape.  We removed and disassembled the rocker/roller assembly.   We're not going to take a chance by cheaping out on parts, so it'll be getting a whole new rocker shaft, pedestals, rocker/roller arms, and dowel pins. I called my nearest Chrysler dealer and they inform me there is a kit which contains all of these parts and there are 10 of said kit in stock on the shelf. That tells me this must be a very common failure.  The Chrysler Price e- I'll be out of town till next Tuesday for the holiday weekend, maybe there will be some posts from "Mopar Guys"  laughing at our diagnosis?
DrPain fucked around with this message at 23:41 on May 22, 2014 |
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May 22, 2014 23:33
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Please never stop
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May 22, 2014 23:43
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That looks like a pretty solid diagnosis on the 300, I dunno how the hell that would happen but I know nothing about new mopars. Funny question. How little dirt was on that cam, err, I mean cam position sensor that was totally definitely replaced? I bet the sensor looks drat near brand new.I love unit bearings for exactly that reason... 15 minute job at most (if you're familiar enough with the vehicle to know exactly which size/type all fasteners are) unless it's been on the bottom of the ocean for a few years.
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May 23, 2014 00:01
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DrPain posted:
Had a pre buy inspection come in with a Sebring with the 2.7 in it. "should I buy it?" 'no' "Whats wrong with it?" 'You asked, I answered.'
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May 23, 2014 00:04
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Spiffness posted:Please never stop Just for you, little buddy.  kastein posted:That looks like a pretty solid diagnosis on the 300, I dunno how the hell that would happen but I know nothing about new mopars. Yeah we're not quite sure on the why and how it fails in that way, but we have identified the problem and are planning a solution just the same. The cause of failure is often a topic better suited to wise men with skinny arms. The cam sensor on the '07 Yukon didn't look all that new either, I have no idea what the hell that customer was going on about. The Eclipse bearing was lighting quick, gently caress yeah. 4 bolts holding it in place and it pops out in your hand. We're also quite far removed from the ocean or any sources of rust here, which is far and above worth the three months of ridiculous heat, imo. DrPain fucked around with this message at 00:16 on May 23, 2014 |
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May 23, 2014 00:12
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DrPain posted:which is far and above worth the three months of ridiculous heat, imo. and 9 months of alright weather. with random holy gently caress rainstorms thrown in.
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May 23, 2014 00:18
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cursedshitbox posted:
Monsoon season owns.
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May 23, 2014 00:35
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Spiffness posted:Please never stop This, and holy hell that kind of failure on a 2010? That just seems ridiculous.
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May 23, 2014 00:37
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The early 3.5s are known for having lovely rocker assemblies if I remember there is a dowel pin that works itself loose and the rocker shaft begins to spin and starve for oil. It was redesigned to not do that. Did the repair on my magnum before I sold it. If you can id replace both sides because its a matter of time before it goes too.
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May 23, 2014 01:53
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IOwnCalculus posted:This, and holy hell that kind of failure on a 2010? That just seems ridiculous. Agreed! Isn't that why people buy new cars? It isn't even 5 years old!
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May 23, 2014 01:59
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I think I should remind you guys who built said 4 year old car that took a poo poo. I don't call em cryco for nothin'
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May 23, 2014 02:04
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Its funny how a "new" car taking a poo poo at 60 or 80k is horrendous these days. I remember when at 60k you either started looking for a new car or collecting parts.
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May 23, 2014 04:06
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Preoptopus posted:Its funny how a "new" car taking a poo poo at 60 or 80k is horrendous these days. I remember when at 60k you either started looking for a new car or collecting parts. When was this? I've torn apart Nissan motors and Volvo motors with over 200k with the crosshatching still visible.
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May 23, 2014 04:15
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Up until about 1988. 
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May 23, 2014 04:37
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Preoptopus posted:Its funny how a "new" car taking a poo poo at 60 or 80k is horrendous these days. I remember when at 60k you either started looking for a new car or collecting parts. Stop buying domestics. 
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May 23, 2014 04:45
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SGNL06 posted:I seem to remember the manual for my Olds Intrigue (RIP) with a 3800 II called for the top engine mount to be removed, and to rock the engine forward to gain access to the back 3 plugs. Speaking from experience it can be done with just universals and wobble end extensions. Funnily enough doing the plugs on my hemi took just as long since there are 16 of the loving things W-body cars called for that. Explains why I never bothered changing the rear three plugs when I had my Regal.  H-bodies have enough space in the rear where you don't have to do any of that poo poo. Just grab the plugs and wrench away.
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May 23, 2014 08:04
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It wasn't just the W body - I seem to recall my ex's early 90s Cavalier (wagon, V6) requiring the same thing for the rear plugs.
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May 23, 2014 09:09
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Spiffness posted:Please never stop Another echo here. I love the variety of cars and seeing what your process is.
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May 23, 2014 11:50
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| # ? Jun 4, 2024 22:12 |
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some texas redneck posted:It wasn't just the W body - I seem to recall my ex's early 90s Cavalier (wagon, V6) requiring the same thing for the rear plugs. Wait, they made a v6 cavalier wagon?  edit: nevermind not the same cavalier. That's a relief!
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May 23, 2014 11:56
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