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Marshmallow Blue posted:
Not yet! I was going to open one of them for party on Sunday and share it with some folks, but the party never happened. I will find an excuse to try some and get back to you. Question for people with a grain mill: is there any compelling reason to buy a fancy mill like a monster mill over the $100 one on AIH? I could get mill & a pump for the cost of just the monster mill... I'm doing BIAB if it matters.
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Jan 6, 2015 00:04
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Der Penguingott posted:Question for people with a grain mill: is there any compelling reason to buy a fancy mill like a monster mill over the $100 one on AIH? I could get mill & a pump for the cost of just the monster mill... You're talking about the Cereal Killer? No reason at all. I have a mill that is less capable than that mill, and I've been using it happily for fifteen years or something. My mill is so old the company that sold it doesn't even exist any more.
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Jan 6, 2015 00:09
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If you really care about maximizing efficiency of your grain bill then get the better one. Otherwise it's not worth the money for a few more % efficiency
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Jan 6, 2015 00:11
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Just checking on HBSS, if anyone's not received or sent yet shoot me a PM and I'll start following up.
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Jan 6, 2015 01:13
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crazyfish posted:Actually, another thing I noticed: Does red wheat malt have much diastatic power? If not, you'll probably need some 6-row or pils in there to help convert, otherwise your efficiency is going to be dogshit. And a pound of C120 is a *lot* for a 3 gallon beer. Red wheat malt has plenty of diastatic power, but that much is gonna be sticky. I'd be more concerned about lautering.
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Jan 6, 2015 01:17
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ieatsoap6 posted:Out of curiosity, what happens of you don't add any hops at all and ferment normally? Is it just super sweet? It's super sweet and unbalanced. Even if you "don't taste" the hops in a beer you need some amount of bitterness in there to balance out the malt sweetness. This is why before there were hops in beer they always used some kind of herb or spice to impart some bitterness, because without some kind of bitterness it doesn't taste right.
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Jan 6, 2015 02:18
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I'd actually like to see that. I know I've seen and heard some commercial brewers say that they only add hops to some sour/wild beers because of something about not being able to label a product 'beer' without hops in the US. Others do it for tradition. It's hard to imagine that the 7-10 IBUs I added 2 years ago mean much in my sours have much flavor impact whether my sours are sweet or dry, and traditional brewers who used aged hops probably get less flavor from that (but maybe some anti-microbial properties?)
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Jan 6, 2015 02:34
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Some commercial brewers make hopless beers, using a herb/spice mixture as mentioned above. They often call them gruits, to give you something to look for. Brewdog and I think Flying Dog did a "best IPA without hops" friendly competition (can't remember what either of the beers was called), and a brewery around here makes one too (http://www.ratebeer.com/beer/saltspring-spring-fever-gruit-ancient-ale/191515/).
toe knee hand fucked around with this message at 03:08 on Jan 6, 2015 |
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Jan 6, 2015 03:02
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Boy, it's been awhile since I posted in this thread. I've been brewing away, but just sort of let this thread get away from me. Anyways, I brewed rage-saq's New World quad recipe lately, and I'm wondering if he (or anyone else) has any insight into why he drops the temperature down to 65 after 6 days at 80*. As far as I can tell the recipe I used (from his site) is like 6 years old at this point so it's probably different from what he does now, but can anyone shed light on this?
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Jan 6, 2015 03:48
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Paladine_PSoT posted:Just checking on HBSS, if anyone's not received or sent yet shoot me a PM and I'll start following up. I don't have the pm feature on SA bought but i haven't gotten my santa gift yet.
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Jan 6, 2015 04:37
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ChickenArise posted:I'd actually like to see that. I know I've seen and heard some commercial brewers say that they only add hops to some sour/wild beers because of something about not being able to label a product 'beer' without hops in the US. Others do it for tradition. It's hard to imagine that the 7-10 IBUs I added 2 years ago mean much in my sours have much flavor impact whether my sours are sweet or dry, and traditional brewers who used aged hops probably get less flavor from that (but maybe some anti-microbial properties?) A big advantage to the antimicrobial effect is that it will inhibit lactobacillus activity. If the lacto culture dominates, it's easy to end up with a beer that is sour but pretty one dimensional in flavour because there's not a whole lot of food left for the Brett/pedio (which tend to act a lot slower). Bobsledboy fucked around with this message at 06:29 on Jan 6, 2015 |
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Jan 6, 2015 06:18
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Re: hopless beers: Thanks for the responses! It's one of those things I've thought about in passing but not in depth. Great info!
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Jan 6, 2015 06:37
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Marshmallow Blue posted:Ok, I'm hopefully approaching order day for 3 batches of beer. These are my recipes, Thoughts? I do my rye pale ale as such: 75% pearl or Maris otter or whatever base malt tickles my fancy 25% flaked rolled rye or 20% of that and 5% caramel rye 25 IBU of Ella (Australian hop that compliments rye) Us 05 or roggenbier yeast
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Jan 6, 2015 09:13
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MickRaider posted:If you really care about maximizing efficiency of your grain bill then get the better one. Otherwise it's not worth the money for a few more % efficiency I got a malt Muncher and the difference was marked. I went from 65-70% to 80-85% just on a finer crush compared to what I was doing with store crushed grains which are optimised for their braumeisters and 3v system. And even on big beers I get a 15% jump. I was previously getting 55% on beers with over 1.060 target pre boil, now I sit at 70
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Jan 6, 2015 09:18
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RiggenBlaque posted:Anyways, I brewed rage-saq's New World quad recipe lately, and I'm wondering if he (or anyone else) has any insight into why he drops the temperature down to 65 after 6 days at 80*. As far as I can tell the recipe I used (from his site) is like 6 years old at this point so it's probably different from what he does now, but can anyone shed light on this? http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f73/pious-westvleteren-12-style-quad-multiple-147815/ Is this the recipe you are referring too? The thread for that is like 1000 pages long with a good discussion. There is also a new one with a slightly tweaked recipe. I brewed it a few months ago and screwed up my attenuation by trying to control the yeast too much. You really want to let them do their thing as much as possible. To save you some reading: The consensus on the correct fermentation schedule for that beer seemed to be to pitch at ~65 or so ambient, wrap the fermenter in blankets and let it free rise. It will get itself to around 80 after a few days. Then hold it there until its done with the primary. This can take a long time. Some people are done in 8 days, others like a month. Wlp530 can be slow for the last few gravity points sometimes i guess. It can get as high as 84 but you want to stop it from going higher and want to avoid any rapid artificial temp changes or the yeast seem to crap out. You can then cold crash the primary and rack to a cold secondary for a few months. I think the the drop down to 65 is just to knock the yeast out of suspension before the transfer.
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Jan 6, 2015 14:19
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1) Sorry Mr Santee I am a giant rear end in a top hat and haven't been around to send your poo poo. It's sitting on my desk ready to go. I am buying and printing the shipping label today and hopefully I won't die on the roads on the way home 2) I am finally going to post pix of the stuff I received. Here we go. Something from Amazon? They're really letting themselves go with the clear tape.  Nope! Something way better!  Here's a bad picture on a bad counter  Thanks a lot J3rkstore! I've had the Lager and the Stout so far and they were really great, you're doing a good job. One thing though, I don't think you included the Irish Red, I'm at work and I don't remember what the bottle is labeled but it wasn't an I. If I remember to check it out at home let me know what it is. Looking forward to getting to the cider because I too like it dry.
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Jan 6, 2015 16:32
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Paladine_PSoT posted:Just checking on HBSS, if anyone's not received or sent yet shoot me a PM and I'll start following up. I also don't have PMs, and haven't sent mine. I've been sick as hell since christmas, and have been avoiding doing basically anything that isn't laying in bed. Maybe I should take care of that today, since I can't get this new god damned electric turkey fryer to work... It was on and heating for like five minutes, and when I turned around the measure out the grains, it turned off, and I can't get the drat thing to turn back on. Why can't poo poo just work?! It's always something!  And they apparently don't want you to take the thing apart, because it has some tiny little tamper resistant torx screw that doesn't fit any of my bits... On the up-side, masterbuilt is selling the updated XL version for $75, which seems to be about 1/2-1/3 the price from around the web. So, loving hell, I guess I'm cooking this batch out in the snow on the old propane setup...I would just hold off until I either fixed this one or ordered a new one, but the grains are already wet...I don't even know if we have any drat propane, now that I think about it. This is pretty much exactly why I've laid off the brewing- nothing ever works right or goes smoothly! BLARGHLE fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Jan 6, 2015 |
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Jan 6, 2015 19:29
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RiggenBlaque posted:rage-saq's New World quad recipe lately I made a quad based off his recipe and used 3787 (THE BEAST), then aged it on oak and brett a for a spell. It's >1y old now and it's god drat wonderful. Another batch is bound for fermenter before too long. e: his recipes are on his website too btw. Jacobey000 fucked around with this message at 20:13 on Jan 6, 2015 |
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Jan 6, 2015 20:10
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BLARGHLE posted:
Just wait til' your mead blows a cork in your wine chiller in your In-laws house that you're living in, sending sticky mead all over their work papers and floor!
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Jan 6, 2015 21:16
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Marshmallow Blue posted:Just wait til' your mead blows a cork in your wine chiller in your In-laws house that you're living in, sending sticky mead all over their work papers and floor! The first two batches I did when I moved into this place blew the airlocks across the room, and krausen all over the ceiling and walls(and carpet, but that got flooded and ripped out like 6 months later, so who cares), which was a bitch to clean up without destroying the paint. Hell, I ruined one of my own couches on the second or third batch I ever brewed- it was in the basement, and the fermenter split right up the side, spraying beer everywhere. It sat that way for two or three days before anyone noticed, so out to the curb it went! I feel like my next house is going to have to have some kind of stainless steel room with a drain in the floor...like the meat department at a grocery store, or something.
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Jan 6, 2015 21:48
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Anyone used a Colonna capper / corker? I'm interested in upgrading from my flimsy plastic clamp capper and I really like the idea of being able to cork bottles as well. Also, I'm starting to get nervous about bottling my 2 current sour beers. When I went to Cantillon, they said their beers are carbonated by the "young" lambic - which is already a year old! I wasn't planning on aging my sours longer than that. Initially I planned to bottle it like I'd bottle any other beer - priming sugar and time, but then I read things about using wine yeast because the ABV is too high / the beer is too acidic. My currently most likely approach (based on the Cantillon thing) is just bottling after a year with no priming sugar, then open a bottle after a few months and see if any carbonation is happening. If it's still flat, drop a carbonation drop in there, wait a couple months, and check again. I'm just worried it will never carbonate without wine yeast, which would be annoying. Thoughts?
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Jan 6, 2015 23:36
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McSpergin posted:I got a malt Muncher and the difference was marked. I went from 65-70% to 80-85% just on a finer crush compared to what I was doing with store crushed grains which are optimised for their braumeisters and 3v system. And even on big beers I get a 15% jump. I was previously getting 55% on beers with over 1.060 target pre boil, now I sit at 70 One of these brews I should actually calculate my efficiency....
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Jan 6, 2015 23:56
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So what are people getting for overall brew house efficiency. I always cry abisimal efficiency but I see other people planning batches around 60% brew house. What are you guys getting?
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Jan 7, 2015 00:06
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Der Penguingott posted:http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f73/pious-westvleteren-12-style-quad-multiple-147815/ Thanks for the tips, I'm going to do what you suggested and what my initial instinct was and just ride out the rest of the fermentation at the 80*. I realized that his recipe had some sort of presence on the web, but not 1000 page forum post presence, jesus. Jacobey000 posted:I made a quad based off his recipe and used 3787 (THE BEAST), then aged it on oak and brett a for a spell. It's >1y old now and it's god drat wonderful. Another batch is bound for fermenter before too long. Sort of tying into what I said above, this site is actually the only thing I knew about, I didn't realize hundreds of people were following his recipe, I thought it was mostly a SA thing. ha!
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Jan 7, 2015 00:14
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Marshmallow Blue posted:So what are people getting for overall brew house efficiency. I always cry abisimal efficiency but I see other people planning batches around 60% brew house. What are you guys getting? I typically see 75% for "normal" beers - more for smaller beers and less for stronger beers.
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Jan 7, 2015 00:17
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Glottis posted:
If the gravity has stabilized you can bottle with priming sugar as usual. I bottled a batch of sour well over a year ago and the carbonation is still fine. I did use super heavy bottles with corks and cages though. As a single data point, I can confidently say this is the best way to do it.
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Jan 7, 2015 00:20
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Great, an hour into the boil, and my propane tank stops working. It's not empty, so I guess it's just frozen up or whatever. I guess I'll take the empty one and exchange it, and then finish it tomorrow. I'm loving fed up with this poo poo for tonight. Too much loving money and frustration for one drat batch of pale ale!
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Jan 7, 2015 01:19
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BLARGHLE posted:Great, an hour into the boil, and my propane tank stops working. It's not empty, so I guess it's just frozen up or whatever. I did that once or twice, and now I get really nervous if I am brewing and don't have a second completely full propane tank on hand.
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Jan 7, 2015 01:30
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internet celebrity posted:If the gravity has stabilized you can bottle with priming sugar as usual. I bottled a batch of sour well over a year ago and the carbonation is still fine. I did use super heavy bottles with corks and cages though. Similarly, I've bottled "as normal" from 1-1.5yrs old and had 0 bottle bombs. I blew up 1 in the freezer, and had a few gushers that spent <24hr in the fridge, but overall I'm happy with the carbonation.
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Jan 7, 2015 01:37
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RiggenBlaque posted:Boy, it's been awhile since I posted in this thread. I've been brewing away, but just sort of let this thread get away from me. I do similar steps with some Belgian yeasts, and many Belgian breweries do too (crashing or centrifuging) - I feel that when you let some yeasts ferment (especially at warm temps) without check they push on right through peak flavor development and end up blander than they have to be. You have to get fast attenuation solved as a problem first and then the next improvement is getting the yeast out of the way once the flavor is where you want. I got decent beer when I just left it warm for 3-4 weeks and it certainly dried out which is preferable to sweetish beer, but lots of times tasting a gravity sample got me super excited and a week or two later at bottling time something I liked was gone and never came back. I've had the most improvement doing this with beers that have the fermentation flavors up front - singles, BPAs, and saisons are probably 75% of my output. There are similar issues with bottle conditioning that I'm really struggling with constantly still. Glottis posted:Anyone used a Colonna capper / corker? I'm interested in upgrading from my flimsy plastic clamp capper and I really like the idea of being able to cork bottles as well. I have one it's really good for capping, decent for corking although I've only used it for cork & cage on belgian-style beers. As it comes it leaves a big round dent in the middle of the cap, bugs some people but I don't care. Comes with 26mm and 29mm bells too.
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Jan 7, 2015 02:55
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Glottis posted:I did that once or twice, and now I get really nervous if I am brewing and don't have a second completely full propane tank on hand. I took my questionably filled second tank out and got it exchanged for a known filled one, but I'm still not doing dick tonight. This has been a loving poo poo day, and I honestly don't know how to top it off. I have nine cigarillos in my freezer, and I kinda want to have a smoke....
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Jan 7, 2015 07:42
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When inputting extract into brewtoad what mash efficiency should i be using? I'm teaching a course and the school wants two extract batches and I've never done one before,so I built a basic one in brewtoad and I ended up with 10 extra points of gravity i thought it was always something like a kilo or a pound for 10 points in a 19L batch. Is there some base ratio I should be working from? There can't be any efficiency variation on my part with extract right?
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Jan 7, 2015 08:01
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Marshmallow Blue posted:I don't have the pm feature on SA bought but i haven't gotten my santa gift yet.
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Jan 7, 2015 08:04
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Marshmallow Blue posted:So what are people getting for overall brew house efficiency. I always cry abisimal efficiency but I see other people planning batches around 60% brew house. What are you guys getting? My best was 95% (!!!) on a berliner weisse and my lowest was a 9% imperial stout at 55% efficiency. The berliner Weisse cranked 7 points over target and 5 litres above target volume (which let me do some on fruit and some not which was rad), the stout just got dick all mash efficiency being a heavy beer. My last imperial stout started at 1.100 OG and I hit 70%, but I used more adjuncts (treacle, D90 Candi syrup) . I've pretty well dialled my overall efficiency in at 80-85% for anything sub 7% though
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Jan 7, 2015 13:05
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Adult Sword Owner posted:Thanks a lot J3rkstore! I've had the Lager and the Stout so far and they were really great, you're doing a good job. One thing though, I don't think you included the Irish Red, I'm at work and I don't remember what the bottle is labeled but it wasn't an I. If I remember to check it out at home let me know what it is. Looking forward to getting to the cider because I too like it dry. Glad to hear it arrived safely! Look for the bottle with the "H" on it and turn it 90* 
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Jan 7, 2015 15:29
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Marshmallow Blue posted:
We opened the blended lambic mead last night, it was fantastic! I love sour/funky beers but I'd never had a mead that way. Thanks for sharing these! I shared it with three friends and everyone invited themselves over to try the other ones. What yeast did you use? I'm tempted to pitch the dregs of the other lambic into a cider I have going.
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Jan 7, 2015 15:44
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DontAskKant posted:When inputting extract into brewtoad what mash efficiency should i be using? I'm teaching a course and the school wants two extract batches and I've never done one before,so I built a basic one in brewtoad and I ended up with 10 extra points of gravity i thought it was always something like a kilo or a pound for 10 points in a 19L batch. Is there some base ratio I should be working from? There can't be any efficiency variation on my part with extract right? Mash efficiency isn't calculated in brewtoad when the recipe is an extract so specialty grains are assumed to not contribute to the OG. If you switch to partial mash they will, but that assumes something has the diastatic power for conversion. Your measurement could also be off if you didn't stir the wort thoroughly enough before taking a sample so it had some pockets of higher concentration. You can either just deal with having a slightly stronger beer or calculate for a higher volume of top-up water and get a larger batch.
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Jan 7, 2015 15:53
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Der Penguingott posted:We opened the blended lambic mead last night, it was fantastic! I love sour/funky beers but I'd never had a mead that way. Ok so that blend is 2/3 1st Generation Lambic mead with strawberries (2.5 lb per gallon) and mixed berries (.25lb per gallon) and 1/3 Second generation cake Lambic mead that came out too horsey and spicy. So the yeast is WYeast Lambic Blend blended with another mead with second generation Wyeast lambic blend cake and red star wine yeast. The bottle you'd pitch dregs from is just classic WYeast Belgian Lambic Blend 3278. The inverse of that mead (so 1/3 1st gen with 2/3 horsey 2nd gen), is still aging in the carboy on more fruit. If anyone does like to read my brewing blog (hivemind mead) the lambic mead articles are here http://hivemindmead.blogspot.com/2013/05/lambic-mead.html and http://hivemindmead.blogspot.com/2014/03/second-generation-lambic-mead.html <The second generation had some issues as a primary fermenter so I threw out the cake , so it's probably good you plan to use dregs as a secondary effort. My next sour mead is going to be a sour take on Ken Schramms Heart of Darkness Mead which is a melomel with black currants cherries and raspberries. I feel like those fruits combined with how my previous sour meads have come out will make something truly stellar. I'll be using half my ECY 20 for that. (the other half for the standard wheat Lambic previously posted). I have an ongoing brett mead project that is Solera style bochets with one gallon carboys. The first one was Brett C, Orval dregs, and wine yeast. The second one I need to get to making but I haven't had the time or funds for it really.
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Jan 7, 2015 16:28
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Marshmallow Blue posted:So what are people getting for overall brew house efficiency. I always cry abisimal efficiency but I see other people planning batches around 60% brew house. What are you guys getting? I get 70-75% typically. Unless I'm trying to do a small beer, then I'll estimate 80% and still usually overshoot :/
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Jan 7, 2015 18:22
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Anybody have a link to a good kegging guide? I have no equipment for it but I'm going to pick up a couple brand new ball lock kegs for $75 each.
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Jan 7, 2015 19:43
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