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Replaced the rear brakes on my 06 A4 and boy was that a giant pain in the rear end. On the plus side it was pretty needed:  On the downside, I somehow managed to snap my emergency brake cable trying to make sure it was still working. Thankfully it's on an automatic, we live in FL, and it didn't get stuck engaged. So I'm probably taking it to the dealer in a little while to get them to look at it and see if they can fix it.
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Jan 13, 2015 01:24
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If they don't have loaners, check with your insurance if they cover rentals cars for incidents such as this.
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Jan 13, 2015 06:08
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There are suddenly lots of 2013 GTI and Golf Rs on local lots around here. What's the deal - I know some people have car ADD but there are quite a few of them.
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Jan 31, 2015 20:07
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Hit an Apex posted:There are suddenly lots of 2013 GTI and Golf Rs on local lots around here. Maybe they're just coming off lease? 
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Jan 31, 2015 21:15
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Hit an Apex posted:There are suddenly lots of 2013 GTI and Golf Rs on local lots around here. Probably because the mk7 is hitting lots?
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Jan 31, 2015 21:58
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My friend threw up all over my [2009 Jetta Sportwagen TDI] car last night because he
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Jan 31, 2015 23:19
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I Am Not Spor posted:My friend threw up all over my [2009 Jetta Sportwagen TDI] car last night because he The joy of having a German car is figuring out things like this. Things that you'd think are simple take the longest to figure out.
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Jan 31, 2015 23:42
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eriddy posted:The joy of having a German car is figuring out things like this. Things that you'd think are simple take the longest to figure out. :vw: My friend walked over asking me what was taking so long and was about to show me how it was done  , and then he had no clue. And the stupid clips are melted in place, so you can't turn them upside down and slide them on. I thought I'd do clips first then slide the panel onto the top, but the woofer and enclosure get in the way. Then I thought I'd just put all my weight on the panel to try and line the clips up, and that didn't work.edit: figured this poo poo out. Leave it up to VW to come up with something like this. I Am Not Spor fucked around with this message at 00:43 on Feb 1, 2015 |
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Feb 1, 2015 00:17
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What's the trick? Don't leave us hanging. Finish the loving story! What happened? What about the glands?
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Feb 1, 2015 18:00
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There are six (I think) white clips that are melted onto the door panel which slide easily up onto black hooks that are attached to the door, which don't pop off when removing the panel. And that caused the confusion for my friend and I. We used wire strippers to get the black pieces out of the door; leveraging the tip against the door and popping the things off. After that it's a matter of putting the black pieces into the white hooks, and then reinstalling the door normally; connect everything, slide the panel in from the top, clip everything, and screw everything back together.
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Feb 1, 2015 19:38
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Trying to replace a burned out headlight bulb on a 2011 GTI, but my hands are too big to get enough purchase on the tab to turn it. The gap between the fuse box and the headlight is about 1.5 inches or so. Any alternative method I could use to get leverage?
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Feb 2, 2015 19:23
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antisodachrist posted:Trying to replace a burned out headlight bulb on a 2011 GTI, but my hands are too big to get enough purchase on the tab to turn it. The gap between the fuse box and the headlight is about 1.5 inches or so. Any alternative method I could use to get leverage? Do you mean the air box? If so, they aren't too hard to remove. Just look up any cold air intake installation instructions.
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Feb 2, 2015 22:51
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smax posted:Do you mean the air box? If so, they aren't too hard to remove. Just look up any cold air intake installation instructions. Nope, the headlight is just in front of the fuse box.
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Feb 3, 2015 00:04
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antisodachrist posted:Trying to replace a burned out headlight bulb on a 2011 GTI, but my hands are too big to get enough purchase on the tab to turn it. The gap between the fuse box and the headlight is about 1.5 inches or so. Any alternative method I could use to get leverage? I no poo poo used a small child to help me out when replacing the bulb on my 2006 A4. v0v Their small hands are useful and they work cheap! Hate to be that guy, but I'm going to ask for some price sanity checks here. Took my car into a new shop today for some minor work, and they let me know my right-side motor mount is bad (leaked all over the place). This would likely explain the clunking I hear occasionally that I had been attributing to my exhaust (I attached a GoPro to the bottom of my car to try and catch the exhaust moving around, but no dice). They are saying $850 parts + labor for replacing only the right-side one, $1300 for both. (Don't really know if you have to do both together); subframe needs to be removed for the right-side guy, hence the absurd labor cost. Googling around for folks who have DIY'd the motor mount brings up the following question: - Aftermarket fluid-less ones any good? I imagine these would have the effect of being worse dampers and transmitting more vibration / changing the chassis vibe mode. - Is it a sane task to DIY? I imagine you have to prop the motor up with a floor jack (aaaaah), and if the "book" says to remove the subframe, and I'm not, can't help but feel that's not ideal. This write up looks appealing; I am completely and utterly unsurprised that the alleged sensor attached to the motor mount did not indicate a goddamned thing (though, then again, maybe only the driver-side mount has one). This one comes up a lot too, but I asked them how much for timing belt, tensioners, water pump and every other little plastic bit that dies around now (155km), and that came out to around $1700 I think. I'm a lot less inclined to try and DIY my engine timing. movax fucked around with this message at 22:44 on Feb 3, 2015 |
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Feb 3, 2015 22:41
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Turns out the bulb is not burnt out, but just loose in some way, or something else is. I can pull on the tab that you usually turn to get it out and the light will come on. Then if I turn the car off and turn it back on the light turns off again. I need to find a way to get something attached to the tab since my hands are too big to get any purchase on it. Thinking two pairs of small vice grips and using them as a handle to turn it. I am just worried about breaking the plastic on it. I tried searching google, but all it gives is a bunch of vwvortex posts about installing hids.
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Feb 12, 2015 01:59
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Hi goons. I'm selling my 98 one off Subaru STI because I have the opportunity to pick up a 2007 GTI, 2dr, 51k kms, fully loaded with leather interior, 6 speed, etc. I'm picking it up for 9-10k from an older relative who isn't driving anymore. I took it for a drive today and was fairly impressed. Is there anything I should look out for/check in a GTI this new? Any other advice or recommendations? What are the decent forums for these?
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Feb 26, 2015 08:04
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VelociBacon posted:Hi goons. I'm selling my 98 one off Subaru STI because I have the opportunity to pick up a 2007 GTI, 2dr, 51k kms, fully loaded with leather interior, 6 speed, etc. I'm picking it up for 9-10k from an older relative who isn't driving anymore. I took it for a drive today and was fairly impressed. That's a pretty sick deal. I have the same car minus the leather interior. I bought it new and up till now I've only had problems with the AC (whole unit had to be replaced), the blower motor fuse went out once, and I occasionally get tire pressure alerts when it's cold out. Consider getting the ECU flashed with APR stage 1, it seriously owns.
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Feb 26, 2015 08:25
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eriddy posted:That's a pretty sick deal. I have the same car minus the leather interior. I bought it new and up till now I've only had problems with the AC (whole unit had to be replaced), the blower motor fuse went out once, and I occasionally get tire pressure alerts when it's cold out. Consider getting the ECU flashed with APR stage 1, it seriously owns. What exactly does that do? Increase boost pressure and adjust timing? E: just read the APR site. Is the common understanding that a stage 1 flash doesn't end up damaging the motor from running lean? Do the headgaskets in the FSI motor stand up well? VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 08:40 on Feb 26, 2015 |
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Feb 26, 2015 08:31
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VelociBacon posted:What exactly does that do? Increase boost pressure and adjust timing? I've had the 93 octane tune enabled continuously for the last 30k miles. I replaced the diverter valve with a more solid one to deal with increased turbo pressure and other than that I have no hardware upgrades. No problems with anything engine-wise and I've done probably 10 full track weekends too. That said, keep in mind you can turn the tune off and on as you like. The reason I promote the ECU flash is because it adds so much hp and torque for such a small cost.
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Feb 26, 2015 09:25
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eriddy posted:I've had the 93 octane tune enabled continuously for the last 30k miles. I replaced the diverter valve with a more solid one to deal with increased turbo pressure and other than that I have no hardware upgrades. No problems with anything engine-wise and I've done probably 10 full track weekends too. That said, keep in mind you can turn the tune off and on as you like. The reason I promote the ECU flash is because it adds so much hp and torque for such a small cost. That's really helpful information, thanks. Is there anywhere I can look to see actual data about what the changes are (boost pressures mostly)? Are supporting mods considered worthwhile for stage 1? Do you have to be careful about upgrading down pipes and causing overboost/lean conditions or can the exhaust be modified without issue?
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Feb 26, 2015 11:00
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VelociBacon posted:Is there anything I should look out for/check in a GTI this new? Any other advice or recommendations? What are the decent forums for these? Like head gaskets on a Subaru the thing that will break and must be checked on the 2.0 is the cam follower. Check it often, replace as necessary, and you'll be treated with a relatively trouble free engine. More info here: https://changegears.wordpress.com/maintenance-information/cam-followers-and-oil-changes-a-warning/
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Feb 26, 2015 14:28
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8ender posted:Like head gaskets on a Subaru the thing that will break and must be checked on the 2.0 is the cam follower. Check it often, replace as necessary, and you'll be treated with a relatively trouble free engine. Thanks for the link, very interesting read. Thanks also for your time with my many questions. Which oil is actually being recommended by the intelligent FSI community? For a mild climate I guess
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Feb 26, 2015 15:40
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I use the "Euro Spec" Mobile 1 stuff you can find at Walmart. It's like $28 for a 4-5 qt jug, the cheapest I've found. Make sure it meets the VW 502.00 spec. Other common points of failure are the diverter valve and the PCV. Nothing catastrophic.
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Feb 26, 2015 15:45
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APR stage 1 is a pretty mild tune compared to other companies. I think its something like 40hp/40torks. Stage 2 is usually a larger downpipe and exhaust and possibly intake. I had stage 1 APR on my 1.8t and it makes a huge difference. Improves your mpg too.
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Feb 26, 2015 16:24
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veedubfreak posted:APR stage 1 is a pretty mild tune compared to other companies. I think its something like 40hp/40torks. Stage 2 is usually a larger downpipe and exhaust and possibly intake. I had stage 1 APR on my 1.8t and it makes a huge difference. Improves your mpg too. I dunno compared to a Cobb stage 1 it's pretty hefty. Does the apr tune still let the ECU adjust timing if you knock?
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Feb 26, 2015 16:54
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I bought my 2007 GTI with ~36k miles on it and waited until that spring to get the APR Stage 1 tune, so it probably had ~40k miles on it when I got it tuned. That was almost 5 years ago and my car now has ~105k miles on it and I've had zero issues with the tune. The things to keep in mind are that the engine will burn oil so keep some extra handy and check your dipstick every so often and as 8ender pointed out check out the cam follower for the high pressure fuel pump because if that fails you're going to need to replace the cam(s). I got a letter at one point from Volkswagen of America that stated they extended the warranty on the engine to 100,000 miles specifically to cover the cam follower failure, so you might want to check if that's the same for Canada as well.
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Feb 26, 2015 19:14
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How much did you guys pay for your stage 1? Have any of you also gone with the iOS app and the dongle for realtime monitoring/logging?
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Feb 27, 2015 07:10
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APR usually does a spring sale and when I bought mine it was ~$650 USD. That price was for up to four tunes and whatever options you wanted. I got the stock-like tune, the 91 octane tune and the 93 octane tune and the ability to "lock" in a tune so you need a code to change the tunes. I have VCDS (Vag Com) so if I need to do any monitoring or logging (I haven't) I just do it from my laptop.
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Feb 27, 2015 15:35
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Help please. I have an 08 Rabbit with 69,000 miles on it and my alternator just took a poo poo on me. Is that something I can fix myself with the power of youtube instructions or should I just pay the dealership to fix it? They want $1000 and I really don't want to give it to them, but I also don't want to gently caress my car up. I'm sure I could find someone else to do it but last time I got a non VW place to work on it they hosed up the power windows (how do you mess those up while you're fixing the fender?) so I'm kinda leery of that too. OR trade it in to the Carmax next door and get something else.
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Mar 3, 2015 03:48
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Do not trade your car in because the alternator took a poo poo, what the hell? Find an indie shop that has a good reputation/reviews.
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Mar 3, 2015 04:00
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Explosions! posted:Help please. I have an 08 Rabbit with 69,000 miles on it and my alternator just took a poo poo on me. Is that something I can fix myself with the power of youtube instructions or should I just pay the dealership to fix it? They want $1000 and I really don't want to give it to them, but I also don't want to gently caress my car up. I'm sure I could find someone else to do it but last time I got a non VW place to work on it they hosed up the power windows (how do you mess those up while you're fixing the fender?) so I'm kinda leery of that too. Trade it in because an alternator went....?  Alternators are like $200. If you don't want to do it yourself just call an independent shop and ask them for a quote, specify you're ok with a remanufactured unit.
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Mar 3, 2015 04:02
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I'm sorry, I'm kinda pissed at it and was trying to make a joke. I'm not really going to trade it. So it's not hard to fix? I won't somehow manage to fry my electronics (this is what several people have mentioned and why I'm afraid to try it)? I've never done more than an oil change/assisted someone else do their brakes on a jeep.
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Mar 3, 2015 04:07
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Explosions! posted:I'm sorry, I'm kinda pissed at it and was trying to make a joke. I'm not really going to trade it. I don't think this is a job you want to do yourself considering your mechanical level. http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/showthread.php?t=163506
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Mar 3, 2015 04:17
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Explosions! posted:last time I got a non VW place to work on it they hosed up the power windows (how do you mess those up while you're fixing the fender?) How were the windows messed up? If the battery gets disconnected, you have to relearn the windows by rolling them all the way up, down, up for the auto up and down to work.
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Mar 3, 2015 04:17
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Uthor posted:How were the windows messed up? If the battery gets disconnected, you have to relearn the windows by rolling them all the way up, down, up for the auto up and down to work. I have no idea what they did. They fixed it after I complained but on a rare occasion the passenger window will still roll all the way up, then right back down then half up if I pull the auto up from the driver's side. Bovril Delight posted:I don't think this is a job you want to do yourself considering your mechanical level. Yes, I don't think I should play with that many of my car's guts without supervision. Thankfully I know someone who should have no trouble with it and will not charge me $$$ for it. Thanks for the link, I was searching the golf forums and not getting very far.
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Mar 3, 2015 04:31
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Explosions! posted:I have no idea what they did. They fixed it after I complained but on a rare occasion the passenger window will still roll all the way up, then right back down then half up if I pull the auto up from the driver's side. Huh. That's a new one!
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Mar 3, 2015 04:53
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Uthor posted:Huh. That's a new one! My nephew is convinced that it's ghosts so...? Anyone know how to replace a bad window ghost, hopefully with one that makes me get better gas mileage?
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Mar 3, 2015 05:05
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Explosions! posted:My nephew is convinced that it's ghosts so...? Anyone know how to replace a bad window ghost, hopefully with one that makes me get better gas mileage? Ha! To be fair, it is a VW... My sunroof has a ghost of its own, sometimes just opening a crack for no reason (thankfully only while the car is running, never when it's just sitting there while it starts to rain and I don't know). I think a sensor is detecting an obstruction and opening the window to relieve it. I should really clean out the area really good, but it's full of grease and is gross, ew.
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Mar 3, 2015 15:49
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Ya, that sounds like the pinch sensor might be fubar. There is a procedure for resetting the windows. Heh, on my last car, the sunroof would only go back to the normal position, not fully open. This was a design choice as the new cars let you manually open the roof all the way. I had to trick it buy making it close on my hand then it would go all the way back. Still have all my fingats.
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Mar 3, 2015 17:48
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Hopefully selling my Subaru tomorrow and picking up that MKV GTI. Excited! E: this happened today! And I promptly did a 3 hour trip to whistler in the GTI. It's not suuuuper quick but it's amazing to have something new and it feels fantastic in 6th. So much grip and stability! VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 08:35 on Mar 10, 2015 |
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Mar 5, 2015 19:32
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