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Should it be incredibly difficult to get a radio code from ford? Bought a ford at the weekend with the blaupunkt nx sat nav radio. When I got home the radio code was not there. Everywhere online says its a simple process. Go to dealer, they check serial number, put in computer and get code. Apparently the local dealer says that's not the case. Ford send them a form. They fill out the form then send to ford who then process and send back. Could take weeks. Is this really the world we live in? All ford themselves say is go to the dealer in person as they can't do it over the phone. Tomorrow I will check with a full ford dealer not one that does to brands.
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Apr 22, 2015 19:01
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I need to change out the flexible portion of my front right brake line because it has a cut in one of the outer layers. This is the line that goes there: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=965662&cc=1420490&jnid=530&jpid=4 The end on the right goes with a banjo bolt to feed the caliper, but what kind of connection is the other end? All of the pics in that category are tiny. The car is a 2001 ford zx2.
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Apr 22, 2015 19:44
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That looks like a standard flare-nut style fitting to me - there should be a nut on the end of the hardline that you will tighten into the end of that hose.
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Apr 22, 2015 19:47
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Thanks. I'm gonna replace all the flexible lines since they original.
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Apr 22, 2015 19:53
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Is a brake caliper slide pin the same thing as a guide pin? I never seem to see the two words used in the same article, but I'm not sure if I'm missing something.
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Apr 22, 2015 20:11
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I heard a clunking noise when going over bumps in my VW Fox, turns out my muffler is bouncing up and down because the thing that was holding it up has come loose (why? rust? lovely welding?). http://imgur.com/a1g63P2 http://imgur.com/FTI8Oy4 What's the damage here - does this just need rewelding, or do I need a replacement part, or replacement muffler?
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Apr 22, 2015 23:28
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coronaball posted:Im text to speech posting so bear with me for any weird typos. Came back to car this morning. Still wouldn't start from park. I was sitting there bored waiting for the tow truck, so high put it in neutral, and it started right up. so now I don't know what the f*** is going on. some kind of ignition problem? I'm sure you're all breathlessly waiting for an update. Took it to the dealership, they spent like 5 hours diagnosing it and came up with a failing IPDM (Intelligent Power Distribution Module) and a repair tag of $1050, which is pretty hosed up considering this appears to be a common defect for Nissan trucks and SUV's, judging from my research. Luckily it is covered by my extended warranty so I'm only out the $100 deductible. That extended warranty has saved me drat near $3000 over the life of the car so far. :o
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Apr 22, 2015 23:33
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zbn posted:I heard a clunking noise when going over bumps in my VW Fox, turns out my muffler is bouncing up and down because the thing that was holding it up has come loose (why? rust? lovely welding?). You could probably weld it in the amount of time it takes to get a welder ready. Of course, if the hanger rusted enough to come off perhaps the muffler isn't long for this world and you may have it replaced anyway.
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Apr 22, 2015 23:51
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I have a 2004 VW Passat, and am currently on vacation in Kansas City— all of my tools, as well as my service manual, are at home in Indianapolis. As I was driving around town, the battery light came on, and the MFI annunciator flashed alternator repeatedly. As I was trying to get back to my destination, several of the warning lights for various systems started to come on as well in order— the ABS, air bag, then the display for the HVAC died, the MFI gear indicator went into some sort of panic mode, then the emergency brake light started flashing intermittently, the tach and the speedo froze, and then the DBW throttle was no longer responsive. Fortunately I was only going about 20 at the time in traffic and was able to pull off onto a neighborhood street and park it (brakes still had good pressure, and the engine was still idling). AAA towed it back to where I'm staying since it's after hours and I didn't want it taken to some random place I have no idea about, or left on a street I don't know well. The way the car failed makes me think that it was indeed the alternator. If it were the battery it would have continued working until I shut it off right? My real question is, do you have any recommendations about who I should take this to and how much do you think I'm going to have to drop on this? It's well out of warranty and I'd rather not take it to a dealer. Basically, is there an AIer who is or knows the Dr Dick Turbo MD of this town? Failing that, what would you do in this situation? There's an O'Reilly within walking distance from here if you think there's anything I could borrow/buy from them to help diagnose this further. I've got an ELM27 clone coming in tomorrow from Amazon as well.
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Apr 23, 2015 02:24
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I work at O'Reilly's. There should be a portable battery/alternator/starter tester there behind a counter somewhere that they can use (so long as your battery isn't in some strange location like behind a fender well). If your car is either on the side of the street within sight of the store or in a parking lot within sight of the store, you might be able to talk someone into walking down there to run the test depending how busy it is. (And depending how lazy the person behind the counter is. While I would do it if it was my store, I can't speak for anyone else.)
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Apr 23, 2015 02:58
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Elmnt80 posted:I work at O'Reilly's. There should be a portable battery/alternator/starter tester there behind a counter somewhere that they can use (so long as your battery isn't in some strange location like behind a fender well). If your car is either on the side of the street within sight of the store or in a parking lot within sight of the store, you might be able to talk someone into walking down there to run the test depending how busy it is. (And depending how lazy the person behind the counter is. While I would do it if it was my store, I can't speak for anyone else.) I wish it were that close. It's a couple of blocks away with a few buildings in between. I will see if it starts tomorrow, but I have my doubts.
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Apr 23, 2015 03:33
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Buy a cheap multimeter from wherever and (if your car starts) measure how much current you have at the battery terminals with the car off as well as on. Check to see if any fuses are visibly burnt out in the fuse box under the hood. Should have more than 14v while idling and 12+ volts with the engine off. If you have less than 14 with the car running and when you throttle the motor up with your hand it raises up you have a problem with your alternator for sure. If it's a low voltage while running and doesn't move up when you throttle the engine up it's probably still your alternator.
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Apr 23, 2015 03:50
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VelociBacon posted:Buy a cheap multimeter from wherever and (if your car starts) measure how much current you have at the battery terminals with the car off as well as on. Check to see if any fuses are visibly burnt out in the fuse box under the hood. This is probably the better option if its that far away.
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Apr 23, 2015 04:00
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Slavvy posted:Can anyone tell me roughly how many miles an E60 M5 clutch should last if the car isn't tracked and is driven by a dickhead investment banker? Less or more than a conventionally-clutched NA car with comparable power (like for example an up-gunned LS or something)? Anecdotal evidence would seem to indicate a life of 80-120,000 km for the clutch in an SMG E60 M5, which is about what you'd expect for a car with that kind of weight and torque (unless you're talking about a V6-powered 5th-gen Camaro, in which case you change your clutch with every oil change). That said, it goes without saying that frequently using the "S" transmission modes in the M5 as well as the launch control function will have a huge negative effect on clutch life. E: Asking how long a clutch should last is kind of like asking how big the sky is. There really isn't a good answer. MrChips fucked around with this message at 05:04 on Apr 23, 2015 |
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Apr 23, 2015 04:55
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VelociBacon posted:Buy a cheap multimeter from wherever and (if your car starts) measure how much current you have at the battery terminals with the car off as well as on. Voltage, surely? You're not going to be able to measure automotive current with a cheap multimeter.
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Apr 23, 2015 07:32
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Raluek posted:Voltage, surely? You're not going to be able to measure automotive current with a cheap multimeter. Whoops, yeah I meant voltage sorry.
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Apr 23, 2015 07:43
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Hey guys, where would you recommend a guy start if he needs a grounding in basic bodywork and sheet metal and hasn't ever done any? My XJ is starting to show the usual rot at the quarters and wheel wells, and living in the land of salt and woe I'd be best served to learn to do bodywork right now before I start a project I'm not going to beat on.
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Apr 23, 2015 13:34
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I have a 2005 VW Jetta. I went out to my car this morning and all the turn signals were blinking. I turned it off and on a few times, pressed the emergency flasher button, and hit the alarm a few times but they won't stop blinking. I drove to work and now they're blinking in the parking lot. WTF could be going on?
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Apr 23, 2015 15:35
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Blinker fluid low? But seriously, maybe the hazard switch broke, try unplugging it?
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Apr 23, 2015 15:56
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I just picked up a MK4 Golf TDI and I have two questions. First, are there any significant daily-use/maintenance things that differ from a non-diesel engine aside from the obvious "don't put gasoline in it?" The maintenance schedule is pretty straightforward w/r/t oil changes and stuff, as well as the start-up procedure with the glow plugs, but I'm curious if there are other important diesel things I should know. It's primary use is going to be commuting to/from work so mostly ~20 to 30 highway miles a day, it's got 80k miles, and I'm in Pittsburgh so it will be pretty cold in the winter. My other question is, what's the easiest/most-effective way to make the cool whistle-y diesel noises even louder?
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Apr 23, 2015 15:56
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VelociBacon posted:Buy a cheap multimeter from wherever and (if your car starts) measure how much current you have at the battery terminals with the car off as well as on. Check to see if any fuses are visibly burnt out in the fuse box under the hood. Checked the fuses, didn't see any that had obvious signs of being burnt out. Car won't turn over. Assuming it's the alternator, how much should I expect to have to pay to have it replaced?
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Apr 23, 2015 21:07
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MrChips posted:Anecdotal evidence would seem to indicate a life of 80-120,000 km for the clutch in an SMG E60 M5, which is about what you'd expect for a car with that kind of weight and torque (unless you're talking about a V6-powered 5th-gen Camaro, in which case you change your clutch with every oil change). That said, it goes without saying that frequently using the "S" transmission modes in the M5 as well as the launch control function will have a huge negative effect on clutch life. I'm asking because I'm having to work on one with ~140kkm and there's a 1-2 second delay between shifts when you drive. That isn't what it's in for, but I'm preparing myself for when he inevitably comes back and tries to claim the problem wasn't there before.
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Apr 23, 2015 23:05
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Slavvy posted:I'm asking because I'm having to work on one with ~140kkm and there's a 1-2 second delay between shifts when you drive. That isn't what it's in for, but I'm preparing myself for when he inevitably comes back and tries to claim the problem wasn't there before. Could be a software/calibration issue. Have you had the battery unplugged for a long time? Also, these things shift like poo poo (especially at low speed/engine RPM) anyways, so it might actually be "normal". Try driving it in a faster transmission mode and maybe try running the car a bit harder (>3000 RPM) when shifting. Alternatively, the SMG relay might have gone bad. Fortunately it isn't that expensive compared to a lot of the other stuff that can go wrong with it.
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Apr 23, 2015 23:39
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Its my first time pulling a drive shaft out of a car. Is there anything I should do in advance or watch out for? (aside from apply parking brake, block the wheels and don't just shove the shaft back into the transmission side when done) EDIT: Vehicle is an '05 avalanche
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Apr 24, 2015 00:09
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MrChips posted:Could be a software/calibration issue. Have you had the battery unplugged for a long time? Also, these things shift like poo poo (especially at low speed/engine RPM) anyways, so it might actually be "normal". Try driving it in a faster transmission mode and maybe try running the car a bit harder (>3000 RPM) when shifting. Battery's never been unplugged, car is a DD that showed up for a vacuum leak related CEL. I've done all the basic poo poo, it definitely isn't regular old SMG terribleness. You accelerate in D (or use manual mode to upshift) and there is a lengthy delay where you cost in neutral until it engages the next gear, this happens both when driving gently and when redlining the thing (like I could resist!), with shift severity modes etc making no difference whatsoever. It feels like it's releasing the clutch for far too long; it also seems to have difficulty judging how much to slip it when it's cold and you're just trying to move the car around at low speed. It's never had the trans out from what I can tell which makes me think the factory clutch might just be buggered. Elmnt80 posted:Its my first time pulling a drive shaft out of a car. Is there anything I should do in advance or watch out for? (aside from apply parking brake, block the wheels and don't just shove the shaft back into the transmission side when done) If the back wheels aren't able to move you might have difficulty undoing all the U-joint bolts.
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Apr 24, 2015 01:33
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Slavvy posted:Battery's never been unplugged, car is a DD that showed up for a vacuum leak related CEL. This sounds a lot more like a solenoid or fluid pressure issue than a worn clutch but I don't know those cars well. Did you step on the brake and gas in 3rd and see if it slips?
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Apr 24, 2015 01:54
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Elmnt80 posted:Its my first time pulling a drive shaft out of a car. Is there anything I should do in advance or watch out for? (aside from apply parking brake, block the wheels and don't just shove the shaft back into the transmission side when done) If you're pulling the yoke out of the transmission, be advised that the tailshaft seal often rides on the yoke. So, you might get a nice fluid surprise when you pull it out.
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Apr 24, 2015 02:23
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Slavvy posted:Battery's never been unplugged, car is a DD that showed up for a vacuum leak related CEL. Do you have access to an INPA system? If there's any error codes it should tell you what they are. Also, INPA will allow you to run the three SMG adaptation programs (one of which is teaching the transmission controller where the clutch bite point is) if need be. E: Running the adaptation programs should also tell you if there is anything wrong with the transmission as they run. MrChips fucked around with this message at 03:43 on Apr 24, 2015 |
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Apr 24, 2015 03:39
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VelociBacon posted:This sounds a lot more like a solenoid or fluid pressure issue than a worn clutch but I don't know those cars well. Did you step on the brake and gas in 3rd and see if it slips? It doesn't slip when you're under throttle, if that's what you're asking. I don't think the car lets you brake and accelerate at the same time, but I haven't tried. MrChips posted:Do you have access to an INPA system? If there's any error codes it should tell you what they are. Also, INPA will allow you to run the three SMG adaptation programs (one of which is teaching the transmission controller where the clutch bite point is) if need be. It's got no codes, I'll give that a whack if the guy wants us to fix it. Is it losing calibration for *reasons* something that just sort of happens?
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Apr 24, 2015 04:11
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Raluek posted:If you're pulling the yoke out of the transmission, be advised that the tailshaft seal often rides on the yoke. So, you might get a nice fluid surprise when you pull it out. Replacing this seal is actually why I'm pulling the driveshaft out.  EDIT: Or rather, replacing the "extension housing gasket/seal" Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 05:45 on Apr 24, 2015 |
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Apr 24, 2015 05:41
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My Ford Ranger seems to have a buildup of grease and dirt on the radiator fins. Do you guys think Purple Power would be okay to use with a garden hose to clean it off?
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Apr 24, 2015 06:51
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From what I dug up, Purple Power attacks aluminum like nobody's business (which is likely what the fins are made of). I'd personally use Simple Green instead.
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Apr 24, 2015 08:11
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Is $300 a fair estimate for a windshield replacement on a 2012 Nissan Versa sedan?  The estimate includes labor.
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Apr 24, 2015 13:26
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Smy cat is norris posted:Is $300 a fair estimate for a windshield replacement on a 2012 Nissan Versa sedan? Sounds reasonable.
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Apr 24, 2015 14:16
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some texas redneck posted:From what I dug up, Purple Power attacks aluminum like nobody's business (which is likely what the fins are made of). I thought Simple Green eats aluminum as well?
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Apr 24, 2015 14:22
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So I have an intermittent starting problem. 97 Honda Civic 5 speed. When it works everything is normal. When it doesn't start you hear the starter solenoid click but the starter doesn't turn. Using a trouble light I see the starter has power, the solenoid sees power but the bridge from the solenoid to the starter does not get energized when the car will not start. I have tried connecting that bridge to 12V and the starter turns. The kicker though is that when the clutch is pressed and the solenoid clicks, I can jump the starter motor so that it spins but it is rotating freely with no engagement. I'm a little lost on this. I figure a new starter will probably fix it, but I would rather not blow money on a beater if the part isn't bad.
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Apr 24, 2015 16:01
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VelociBacon posted:Sounds reasonable. Thank you!
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Apr 24, 2015 16:21
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Sadi posted:So I have an intermittent starting problem. 97 Honda Civic 5 speed. When it works everything is normal. When it doesn't start you hear the starter solenoid click but the starter doesn't turn. Using a trouble light I see the starter has power, the solenoid sees power but the bridge from the solenoid to the starter does not get energized when the car will not start. I have tried connecting that bridge to 12V and the starter turns. The kicker though is that when the clutch is pressed and the solenoid clicks, I can jump the starter motor so that it spins but it is rotating freely with no engagement. First off, use a voltmeter, not a trouble light; one possibility is corrosion inside the cable increasing resistance, causing an excessive voltage drop. Enough to light a bulb, but not run a starter motor that draws 100A or more in normal operation. Is it definitely the solenoid clicking when you turn the key? Have someone else turn it while you feel the solenoid to make sure. It's rare for a solenoid to fail in such a way that it engages (clicks) but doesn't transmit power; usually the magnetic coil (the actual solenoid) burns out. The free spinning sounds like either you have a broken tooth on the flywheel, or the mechanism that shoots the pinion gear out to engage the flywheel is defective. I'd take the starter off, have it tested at a parts store, and turn the engine at least a complete revolution by hand while inspecting the flywheel teeth, which should be visible with the starter removed. E: Actually, I just found this:  I guess some starters the solenoid has to be engaged to engage the flywheel; I'd only heard of the self-actuating bendix-type units. That's another data point in favor of a bad solenoid. Fender Anarchist fucked around with this message at 19:06 on Apr 24, 2015 |
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Apr 24, 2015 19:04
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Hit that poo poo with something hard a few times and try starting it again. If it starts, replace your starter because the solenoid is probably shot. Should be a do-it-yourself repair and a remanufactured starter is pretty cheap.
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Apr 24, 2015 19:53
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When flushing a cooling system (2000 Dodge Stratus 2.5L w/ 150k miles, if it matters) is a chemical flushing agent required or is it money down the drain? I'm replacing both hoses while I'm at it.
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Apr 24, 2015 21:49
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