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Kasan posted:(because who doesn't love lightly tapping copper for an hour x_X)
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May 1, 2015 00:55
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Just use the copper, I'm not sure what the issue is? My research area is water treatment and storage and copper seems to consistently come out ahead of alternatives. Not to mention all modern plumbing that isn't PVC is copper...
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May 1, 2015 10:42
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Ambrose Burnside posted:That's... a really good idea, if I knew any glassblowers at any rate. If you make some flasks like this, let me know what sort of asking price you want for one or two.
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May 1, 2015 13:28
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Yeah just use copper and roll the edges, make sure it's the same alloy as water pipes and such so it's safe for water/liquids.
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May 1, 2015 14:03
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Kim Jong ill posted:Just use the copper, I'm not sure what the issue is? My research area is water treatment and storage and copper seems to consistently come out ahead of alternatives. Not to mention all modern plumbing that isn't PVC is copper... I'd be concerned about it imparting flavour to whatever I throw in there especially if the beverage is acidic, or builds tarnish up on the inside that I can't easily clean, or leaching with extended storage (which I probably wouldn't do but whatevs). With spirits that isn't as big a concern as with cookware, it's not like I'm gonna be filling it with limoncello, but I reckon it doesn't hurt to play it safe when it comes to stuff you're storing a beverage in. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 19:10 on May 1, 2015 |
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May 1, 2015 17:17
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Ambrose Burnside posted:I'd be concerned about it imparting flavour to whatever I throw in there, especially if it's acidic or builds tarnish up on the inside that I can't easily clean, or leaching with extended storage (which I probably wouldn't do but whatevs). With spirits that isn't as big a concern as with cookware, it's not like I'm gonna be filling it with limoncello, but I reckon it doesn't hurt to play it safe when it comes to stuff you're storing a beverage in. I just looked it up, and tin is WAY better against acids than copper. So to actually answer your initial question: yes, you can tin-plate a flask with a tin anode suspended in your copper flask as the cathode. Ideally the electrolyte is tin chloride (SnCl2) made by dissolving clean tin in clean water with muriatic acid, but I think just sodium chloride will work as the electrolyte.
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May 1, 2015 18:02
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Would it be possible/have you considered lining the interior with a plastic or silicone? Something like this: http://www.makeyourownmolds.com/copy-flex or this: http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/food-grade-liquid-rubber-coating_1988861363.html Claims to be food-grade. I imagine you could pour some in there, sloosh it around to get it good and stuck on the insides, pour out excess before it solidifies, and then let it dry. Maybe do a second coat, and now your copper flask is lined with food-grade silicone. Hmm maybe this: http://www.masterbond.com/properties/food-safe-adhesives-sealants-coatings-encapsulation-compounds Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 18:10 on May 1, 2015 |
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May 1, 2015 18:06
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I finally got my forge working, I tested it with charcoal and it works just fine. I'm going to cut down the lip and make a shelf, and pour some refractory around the bottom of the pot. Also want to make an ash dump instead of waiting for the threads on that pipe to rust up. Was thinking of making an upside down flapper with a ball weight. Now I just need to get my neighbor to help me move my anvil.
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May 4, 2015 13:58
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So, I am getting into using our CNC router at work more. And the dust that comes off of wood or plastic I can deal with, but I am going to be routing mostly aluminum. Is there anything I can do to lessen the annoyance of being covered in millions of aluminum slivers? I wear gloves and a overshirt, but they work their way through fabric like nothing else.
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May 5, 2015 01:36
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Starz posted:So, I am getting into using our CNC router at work more. And the dust that comes off of wood or plastic I can deal with, but I am going to be routing mostly aluminum. Is there anything I can do to lessen the annoyance of being covered in millions of aluminum slivers? I wear gloves and a overshirt, but they work their way through fabric like nothing else. Shopvac, coolant, air hose, harden the gently caress up. Those are your options, sorry.
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May 5, 2015 02:21
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Random Number posted:Shopvac, coolant, air hose, harden the gently caress up. Those are your options, sorry. Leather apron isn't a bad idea either.
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May 5, 2015 02:43
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Make bigger chips that don't work their way through clothes as easy.
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May 5, 2015 03:00
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Motronic posted:Leather apron isn't a bad idea either. A leather apron to waylay aluminum pube trimmings? Unless you intend to weld a lot as well I would just get a wt/dry shopvac since you can also vacuum up dog poo poo, cat puke, offal, etc and just hose the fucker out later.
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May 5, 2015 03:45
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Random Number posted:just get a wt/dry shopvac since you can also vacuum up dog poo poo, cat puke, offal, etc and just hose the fucker out later. What the gently caress sort of shop are you running there?  
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May 5, 2015 09:02
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Cakefool posted:What the gently caress sort of shop are you running there? Party shop
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May 5, 2015 14:08
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Random Number posted:A leather apron to waylay aluminum pube trimmings? Yeah, it's not like I invented the idea. Machinists have been wearing leather aprons to solve this exact problem since shortly after machining became a thing.
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May 5, 2015 16:09
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And stopped shortly after cnc machines with enclosures and windows were invented.
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May 5, 2015 16:32
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I'd rather buy the CNC machine when I think about it, but I'll probably end up buying an apron instead 
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May 5, 2015 18:24
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Astonishing Wang posted:I'd rather buy the CNC machine when I think about it, but I'll probably end up buying an apron instead Or make an enclosure out of cardboard or plywood or something. If you don't need the vacuum to evacuate chips, then you don't need constant access to it.
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May 5, 2015 18:36
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The vacuum is an investment really. The leather apron is really situational and I'm just sperging out. I've only ever worn thick cloth aprons and they work pretty nicely for bigger chips and keeping your clothing safe from grease/burns.
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May 5, 2015 21:37
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Carbide burrs on die grinders produce the same obnoxious rear end razor sharp chips. Best to wear a face shield and a leather apron.
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May 5, 2015 23:52
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Random Number posted:The vacuum is an investment really. The leather apron is really situational and I'm just sperging out. I've only ever worn thick cloth aprons and they work pretty nicely for bigger chips and keeping your clothing safe from grease/burns. A good quiet shopvac and cyclone separator is literally magic when it's time to clean up stuff. 10 pounds of concrete and drywall dust? Gone. Cat litter? Obliterated. CNC enclosure full to the brim with bits of razor edged stainless or carbon steel chips? Vanished! And 90% of the crap ends up in the bottom of the cyclone bucket, which means I can run the fancy HEPA filter on my wetdry vac and not lose suction in 8 microseconds. Also, a good set of wrap-around eye-pro, or a set of gasketed goggles goes a really long way to avoiding bits of flying bullshit being magnetically drawn to your eyes. I have a 3M Ultimate FX I use for anything I don't want in my eyes and lungs, and it's comfy to the point where I can wear it all afternoon and not care too much.
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May 6, 2015 00:40
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oxbrain posted:Make bigger chips that don't work their way through clothes as easy. This. Show us your cutting tools and increase the feedrate.
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May 6, 2015 08:31
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I mostly just deal with it as I don't have any other choice. I just thought that I would ask someone who knows more than I do. I am not sure what the tool is specifically, but I believe it to be a 3/16" two fluted bit running about 20,000 rpm and I don't have a good idea about the feed speed. I know that I set the speed to between 30 and 60 on our machine, but what unit of measurement that is I don't know. I set up a vacuum system on our router that is devoted to plastic and it works great, but the boss doesn't want me messing with our aluminum router as it is much more expensive and makes more of our work pieces. Plus I am not totally sure how I would rig something up on it as it is a roughly 6'x10' bed. So no enclosure either. We are a signage company and I am mostly routing sign faces out of aluminum sheet, usually .090". I kind of have to babysit the machine so that it doesn't make bad cuts as the pieces come free from the sheet and try to move around I fixed our cooling mist mister and it sprays like it is supposed to, and that helped keep the slivers coming of the work from being flung all over the room, but I still get covered in them from handling the pieces if nothing else. It isn't the worst thing in the world, but it is annoying having aluminum splinters in your fingers all the time. I appreciate any info I can get. I want to learn how to do this properly, but I am still pretty new when it comes to aluminum. Coming from a blacksmithing and structural steel background it took me a while to get confident mig welding aluminum sheet all the way down to .040" and the like.
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May 7, 2015 04:16
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Starz posted:I mostly just deal with it as I don't have any other choice. I just thought that I would ask someone who knows more than I do. I'm going to assume inches per minute. That comes out to between 0.00075" and 0.0015" inches per flute at 20000 rpm. That's around correct, and if the parts are coming loose then you probably don't want to bump it up very much. How are you securing the workpiece? Probably a vacuum table? I'm wondering if with such thin sheet you could get away with a downspiral router bit. That would eliminate material pull up, and allow the machine to run pretty much unattended. Anybody got thoughts?
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May 7, 2015 10:14
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What's the max rpm and feed for the machine? If you feed faster do you get chatter or does it run out of power? With that kind of rpm available you should be able to double or triple that feed rate. I have no experience with vacuum table or really thin sheet work.
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May 7, 2015 15:55
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That's a really slow feed rate if you're only doing .100" at a time with a 20KPRM endmill, but I don't know how rigid your gantry is. Try to find an old 4 flute and run that sucker through some scrap until you snap it, then run around 75% that speed and you'll be happy as a clam. It should sound like you're ripping a board on a table saw.
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May 7, 2015 20:13
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I'd change the program to leave three points .005" wide still attached to the base sheet. Significant reduction in errors as a result of the part coming free during cutting.
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May 7, 2015 22:05
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The work is secured by clamping the perimeter of the sheet,which causes its' own problems. The boss doesn't want to replace the plastic table top so I have to put cardboard down underneath the work piece. Then when it is clamped at the edges it bows the center of the piece up a little and that messes with my Z-axis settings and I believe causes some of the problems with pieces wanting to shift more as they are cut free. We have a vacuum table, but it is set up for routing plastic and easy wood like MDF. The RPM can go to ~21,000. I don't know the max feed rate for the machine. I know it can go faster than the bits we use can cut. I have snapped a couple bits after forgetting to turn the feed rate down after my scribe pass. I don't really have the time or resources to burn to try and gradually increase the feed rate and see what I can get to work. I just stick to the range I was taught as acceptable since I don't any better. I would describe the whole machine as pretty solid. And it sounds like a beast of a machine alright. I always wear ear muffs when I am running any router. It is a good idea to leave a few points of connection, but I doubt I could convince the boss to let me do it. We get our cut-files from our graphics department and they are so swamped I really don't want to bother them with extra work to make my life easier. Also, having to clean up the nibs left over would be more work than what we currently do. We are supposedly getting a new router in ~2 months and I have been tapped to run it. I think then I am going to lobby to get to handling the cut-files and programming so I can handle things better. As it is now communication can be spotty and I don't even know what I am routing sometimes. That makes it too easy for problems to happen.
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May 7, 2015 23:16
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Starz posted:The work is secured by clamping the perimeter of the sheet,which causes its' own problems. The boss doesn't want to replace the plastic table top so I have to put cardboard down underneath the work piece. Then when it is clamped at the edges it bows the center of the piece up a little and that messes with my Z-axis settings and I believe causes some of the problems with pieces wanting to shift more as they are cut free. It sounds like your workholding situation is poo poo. Properly and VERy rigidly holding the work is the #1 thing to look for on any job setup. The machine is already as rigid as it's going to get, but the workpiece isn't. Imagine trying to cut the end of a 2x4 cantilevered out with an axe. Most of the work in the swing goes into just bouncing the wood up and down. Same thing happens with the cutting teeth on a mill or router. It's why big metal working machines always have huge rear end vises and clamping systems to hold the parts down. Less part movement, more accurate parts, MUCH longer cutter life. If you can, and the sign allows for it, punch a hole in it and clamp the center to the table with a bolt and large area washer. That should flatten out the sheet and prevent the bowing from starting to hum or vibrate under load. If not, check clearance and just put a big rear end heavy chunk of plate steel on top of it. With thin stock, that's often enough to keep it from being an issue. Just make sure to air cut at 200% feed override ~2 inches above the part to make sure you're not going to strike it, because that can cause severe loss of blood and general sadness all around. Look into the spoilboard on the X-Carve or Shapeoko machines. There are 1/4-20 inserts in the MDF base plate you use to clamp down. Get a sheet of 1/2" MDF, add a bunch of those inserts to it, and you can clamp/screw and do whatever to it because it's a $20 chunk of glue and sawdust instead of a ~$400 chunk of plastic. Another thing to look into is getting a real vacuum table for it. You can get them with a pressure sensor that will E-stop the machine if the table loses vacuum, like if you accidentally cut through the material completely. Those are super handy for doing other poo poo while the machine makes the sign. Methylethylaldehyde fucked around with this message at 10:15 on May 9, 2015 |
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May 9, 2015 01:07
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Putting my blacksmithing training to use in the only capacity I can atm, via a pendant for Mother's Day. all forged + cold-connected in the traditional ways, just on 14 gauge copper wire. the scrolls are about 3 cm long. the upper ones are on jumprings instead of collars so they can swivel and act as big chain links.
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May 9, 2015 02:57
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Putting my blacksmithing training to use in the only capacity I can atm, via a pendant for Mother's Day. That's really awesome. Good work!
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May 9, 2015 13:49
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Methylethylaldehyde posted:It sounds like your workholding situation is poo poo. Properly and VERy rigidly holding the work is the #1 thing to look for on any job setup. The machine is already as rigid as it's going to get, but the workpiece isn't. In the short term, you could also screw an MDF sacrifice plate down and tape your parts to that. I've used http://www.mcmaster.com/#75985A671 for 1/8" aluminum plate, it works fine on big sheets. Doesn't work that well on small pieces, though, so you may need to babysit it to make sure any small cutouts don't fly loose. It's definitely not a long term solution, prepping parts takes quite a while and you have to clean them all after. The vacuum table is really a much better solution. But if you need to sell your boss on new workholding, it could be a decent proof of concept for a vacuum, since you'll get the same benefit of clamping everywhere on the part.
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May 9, 2015 15:38
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checking in to say I just bought a powermig 210 and this thing is a million times better than the stick welders I used back in high school/college between that and the autodarkening helmets, I'm in love
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May 10, 2015 23:34
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I will hop on the "metal things made for Mother's Day" train. A copper design for my parent's garden. Done by fold forming the leaves and brazing the hanger and rings.    Bonus puppy pic. 20 weeks and 55lbs of fur and teeth! 
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May 11, 2015 01:58
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Putting my blacksmithing training to use in the only capacity I can atm, via a pendant for Mother's Day. Any one else make jewelry? I'm trying to get back into it and I'm looking for some tools and project feed back.
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May 11, 2015 05:36
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Brekelefuw posted:I will hop on the "metal things made for Mother's Day" train. That looks rad as gently caress! Seriously, those leaves have that perfect organic look 
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May 11, 2015 13:07
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I'm an electrical engineer who wants to do a short production run of a gizmo I made (like 100-1000), but I'm stuck on the enclosure which is a big cost driver. Initially I was planning to go with an ABS plastic case with custom machining (I was getting quotes $7 per piece for 1000 pieces), but recently someone suggested I take a look at metal stamping instead. The plastic box is about 4.5x3.5x1.5", and would need holes on several sides, some of them tapped. I've done some googling but I'm having trouble finding examples of simple enclosures, most fabricators seem to specialize either in very small and flat parts or huge enclosures for vending machines and such, so I can't get an idea of how much this would cost. Anyone have any experience with stamping?
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May 11, 2015 19:07
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Brekelefuw posted:I will hop on the "metal things made for Mother's Day" train. Just remember, anything involving penetration has to be anodized.
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May 11, 2015 19:34
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Echeveria posted:Any one else make jewelry? I'm trying to get back into it and I'm looking for some tools and project feed back.
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May 11, 2015 20:04
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