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Is it sketchy if someone damages your car and then offers to pay for it out-of-pocket? Someone tapped my rear bumper with his car at a stoplight last night, really superficial paint damage but the dude was freaking out because he was driving his wife's car and didn't want her to find out. We exchanged info and today he's offering me $4-500 of his own money to fix it when he gets paid in a few weeks, which is what my deductible through my insurance company would be anyway. I was going to shop around a bit today and see if that's all it's going to take to fix things, I could go through his insurance for $0 but if he's willing to cover the entire cost (and that is the entire cost in the first place) then I don't see the point of screwing him over right now.
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May 23, 2015 17:07
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It can be sketchy or it can be legit. Tough to tell because the reasons are pretty much the same: the guy doesn't want to get busted for something. Whether that's pissing off the wife or getting impounded because his insurance expired 3 years ago, who knows? If it was a tap and the damage is minor enough that I can get it fixed for less than he's offering or I can ignore it, I'd take the cash. If not, or if there's ANY chance of the slightest injury, I'd play it safe and go through insurance.
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May 23, 2015 17:19
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Is he willing to cover a rental when your car is in the shop? Thats another cost a lot of people don't factor. If you don't go through insurance your only guarantee on the repairs is the shop itself, so choose wisely.
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May 23, 2015 17:25
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I think the "don't want to get caught" part is that he told me he's still working on getting his license and only has a permit or something right now, I was talking to my insurance and it sounds like they found the insurance plan for his car with the info I gave them. That's a good point about the cost of a rental though, how long do paint touch-ups usually take? E: He thinks Macco (Maaco?) would give us the best deal, any experience with that chain? C-Euro fucked around with this message at 17:55 on May 23, 2015 |
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May 23, 2015 17:45
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The only proper answer is to go through his insurance. That doesn't mean this guy is trying to screw you or that he won't pay, but if your primary concern is making sure that your car gets fixed properly then you really need to just suck it up and hope you're not loving the guy who rear ended you too hard.
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May 23, 2015 17:46
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C-Euro posted:E: He thinks Macco (Maaco?) would give us the best deal, any experience with that chain? Go to a proper shop...
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May 23, 2015 18:38
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Let's see a picture of the damage.
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May 23, 2015 18:39
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C-Euro posted:E: He thinks Macco (Maaco?) would give us the best deal, any experience with that chain? Maaco's franchised. There are terrible ones, there are great ones, and there are a whole bunch of mediocre ones in the middle. Also, their "best deals" are built around crap paint and lousy prepwork.
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May 23, 2015 19:31
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C-Euro posted:I think the "don't want to get caught" part is that he told me he's still working on getting his license and only has a permit or something right now, I was talking to my insurance and it sounds like they found the insurance plan for his car with the info I gave them. That's a good point about the cost of a rental though, how long do paint touch-ups usually take? You aren't after the best deal. You're after quality work. Look at Yelp and Google reviews for shops, ask around, etc. You're probably looking at a couple days for most body work at a minimum, especially if they don't have an insurance company trying to get the work done timely.
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May 23, 2015 20:34
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Bovril Delight posted:You aren't after the best deal. You're after quality work. Look at Yelp and Google reviews for shops, ask around, etc. Yeah, if I wanted to play ball with the guy, I'd look around for a good shop, get a quote, tack on maybe 10-20% (because quotes aren't always accurate), and ask for that amount from the guy. If he balks at the amount, well, hit up his insurance.
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May 23, 2015 21:04
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Raluek posted:(because quotes aren't always accurate), Especially bodywork quotes. What happens when this totally minor looking bumper scratch that gets quoted turns into needing more parts once it's disassembled? That's pretty typical of collision damage.
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May 23, 2015 21:26
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The one time I've bumped someone, I paid out of pocket, because I knew there was no way in hell the cost would come in any way close to the affect on my insurance premium for a few years. Just told him to go and get a quote from wherever he wanted to use, he did, and I gave him some cash (in exchange for a receipt saying I'd paid for the damage in full).
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May 23, 2015 21:40
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Guy at work had a minor bumper ding that looked insignificant but ended up busting a parking sensor. Really quick way to turn into a nine hundred dollar job.
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May 23, 2015 21:41
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BlackMK4 posted:Let's see a picture of the damage. Also this.
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May 23, 2015 22:23
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C-Euro posted:I think the "don't want to get caught" part is that he told me he's still working on getting his license and only has a permit or something right now, I was talking to my insurance and it sounds like they found the insurance plan for his car with the info I gave them. That's a good point about the cost of a rental though, how long do paint touch-ups usually take? They are complete and utter poo poo. They're the cheapest place around, with good reason. Just hand a blind man a can of spray paint instead.
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May 23, 2015 22:54
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BlackMK4 posted:Let's see a picture of the damage.   Had I not been in the car when it got hit I might not have even noticed it right away, then again I'm by no means a car expert as my last few posts have made clear. 2011 Ford Escape. E: Crawled under the car earlier and it doesn't look like anything has been broken or has fallen off. Also went to a Ford dealer earlier today to get an estimate from their body shop but they're closed until Tuesday. If I can't get it done for what he's offering I'll just use his insurance, my insurance put that option on the table. C-Euro fucked around with this message at 00:19 on May 24, 2015 |
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May 23, 2015 23:28
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Based on the picture that could be anything from a bumper cover respray to a new bumper cover to a new bumper cover plus all of the impact absorbing bits behind it.
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May 23, 2015 23:30
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'94 Lexus SC400. I've got a couple of spots of bubbly paint and rust, and one fist-sized hole in the rear quarter by the wheel well. Is it worth taking it to a body shop to repair properly, if so how much (roughly) should it cost? Or should I spend a couple hundred bucks on a MIG welder and do it myself? Or, comedy option, bondo everything.
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May 24, 2015 01:40
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How good do you care about it looking, and how long do you want it to last?
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May 24, 2015 01:45
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InitialDave posted:How good do you care about it looking, and how long do you want it to last? It doesn't have to be showy, as long as it's straight and the paint matches. And 5-10 years would be nice, although living on the Canadian east coast will make even 12 months of rust-free living difficult.
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May 24, 2015 02:11
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Motronic posted:Based on the picture that could be anything from a bumper cover respray to a new bumper cover to a new bumper cover plus all of the impact absorbing bits behind it. It's a pain in the rear end to reproduce those body lines in the bumper cover, if they're nicked it'll be a replacement cover. Doubt the rebar is bent but I'm betting on the impact absorber being compressed so that'll be a replacement as well.
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May 24, 2015 02:21
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http://m.autozone.com/autozone-mobile/en/accessories/Rain-X-1-gal-bug-remover-washer-fluid/_/N-25ro?id=332603 Is this stuff really going to gently caress up the washer fluid sensor on my Volvo S60? There are several reviews on Amazon complaining about it. My car's manu says to use 'Volvo washer fluid or equivilant' but no indication is given for what specific fluid I should actually use.
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May 24, 2015 04:31
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Augmented Dickey posted:http://m.autozone.com/autozone-mobile/en/accessories/Rain-X-1-gal-bug-remover-washer-fluid/_/N-25ro?id=332603 Apparently the rainx stuff fucks up VW sensors too but didn't realize that until month after I put the stuff in. Oddly enough I haven't had any problems. I would play it safe and just buy the regular non-rainx stuff. My car is fine but I won't buy it again.
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May 24, 2015 05:16
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Augmented Dickey posted:http://m.autozone.com/autozone-mobile/en/accessories/Rain-X-1-gal-bug-remover-washer-fluid/_/N-25ro?id=332603 In my experience you'll get a waxy buildup around your nozzles and that probably has something to do with the sensor failure. I don't think my car has one. Just apply Rain-X normally or better yet Aquapel.
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May 24, 2015 05:18
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I need a new vehicle and I have only three requirements Under 10K Ford (I know a guy who can get me a lot of ford parts on the cheap) Truck (I haul poo poo for a living, or at least a few more years) Is there a general consensus on what F-150s are the best in the 1985-2003 range? That's where I find most not beat to hell F-150s on the cheaper side.
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May 24, 2015 05:48
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The question is how much poo poo do you need to haul? If it was heavier duty the only answer would be "anything with a 7.3." If you're saying F-150 I guess you probably don't need that much. Engines-wise, the 4.0 straight six is low-powered and unrefined, but fairly bulletproof from what I've heard. 5.0 is similar. The modular V8s (4.6/5.4) I believe only came in 2-valve form, which means you'll probably be dealing with stripped/loose spark plugs at some point (better than the seizing plugs in the later 3-valve motors, and easier to fix). Basically if you just want cheap and easy to fix with hammers, go older; if you want better economy and generally more creature comforts, go newer. Side note, they're all pretty much deathtraps in a crash even compared to cars of identical vintage.
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May 24, 2015 06:03
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Is that the same I6 as the old falcons or did they make virtually the same engine twice because they're ford?
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May 24, 2015 07:16
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According to Wikipedia they share a common ancestor, but diverged around 1970. Also I remembered wrong, the motor I'm thinking of was actually a 4.9L I6 (incidentally, the reason the 302 was badged as a 5.0 despite only being 4.94L actual displacement, it was to avoid confusion with the I6).
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May 24, 2015 07:22
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Enourmo posted:Also I remembered wrong, the motor I'm thinking of was actually a 4.9L I6 (incidentally, the reason the 302 was badged as a 5.0 despite only being 4.94L actual displacement, it was to avoid confusion with the I6). I was about to mention this little fact! The 300 is really a great motor, if you have to have fewer than the correct number of cylinders.
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May 24, 2015 07:31
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two_beer_bishes posted:Apparently the rainx stuff fucks up VW sensors too but didn't realize that until month after I put the stuff in. Oddly enough I haven't had any problems. I would play it safe and just buy the regular non-rainx stuff. My car is fine but I won't buy it again. I think that's only the orange formula. At least, that's what hosed up my sensor.
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May 24, 2015 12:17
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C-Euro posted:We exchanged info and today he's offering me $4-500 of his own money to fix it when he gets paid in a few weeks, which is what my deductible through my insurance company would be anyway. Why would you go through your insurance? You aren't at fault, your out of pocket should be $0 either way here. Go through their insurance and be done with it, this is why everyone is supposed to have liability coverage. It may be because the one situation I had like this (uninsured driving a 2014 Kia,  ) I got screwed. They started ducking my calls almost right away and I didn't have enough actual information to serve a civil suit to force the issue.
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May 24, 2015 12:48
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Cthulhuite posted:It doesn't have to be showy, as long as it's straight and the paint matches. And 5-10 years would be nice, although living on the Canadian east coast will make even 12 months of rust-free living difficult.
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May 24, 2015 13:31
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two_beer_bishes posted:Apparently the rainx stuff fucks up VW sensors too but didn't realize that until month after I put the stuff in. Oddly enough I haven't had any problems. I would play it safe and just buy the regular non-rainx stuff. My car is fine but I won't buy it again. Thanks, so what do you put in your reaervoir now? The few stores that I've been to only stock rain-x.
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May 24, 2015 15:33
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IOwnCalculus posted:Why would you go through your insurance? You aren't at fault, your out of pocket should be $0 either way here. Go through their insurance and be done with it, this is why everyone is supposed to have liability coverage.
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May 24, 2015 19:36
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BlackMK4 posted:I called my insurance company in a case like this. They fixed my car right away for $0 and then went after the other insurance company for the money. Your insurance company/state may vary on this, but it's generally the right way to go. Sometimes you have to pay your deductible until it's subrogated (they get paid by the other insurance company). But this is pretty much one of the reasons you pay for insurance......let them do the legwork/paperwork unless the striking driver's insurance company is willing to play ball immediately. I've done both in different situations. The one where I used my own insurance company happened when the striking vehicle company was moving too slowly. Called the case agent back and said "this isn't working; I'm not waiting any longer. Expect a call from my insurance company." I had authorization to repair with promise of payment three days later from my own company.
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May 25, 2015 00:10
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Yeah I called my insurance but the deductible is a little hefty since I had to use my insurance earlier this year (hit a deer one night). They said I could go through his insurance for $0 so I'm just going to have a dealer look at the damage to see what needs to be done and then just tell my insurance to use his.
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May 25, 2015 00:28
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Augmented Dickey posted:Thanks, so what do you put in your reaervoir now? The few stores that I've been to only stock rain-x. Honestly, I've just kept using the same stuff since I haven't had to buy anything since then. I've diluted it with a bit of water since it's warmed up but come winter I'll be buying something not rain-x brand. I'll go where ever I have to just to find the regular blue stuff.
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May 25, 2015 04:05
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Anybody have a good guide for selling a car on craigslist? I never know if it's better to have a thorough description of every single little niggling thing about the car, or just the major things. Is too much honesty bad?
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May 25, 2015 06:23
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Can anyone tell me about mid 90's Jeep Grand Cherokees? My parents bought a Tahoe to replace theirs and are offering to just give me and my wife their (I think 96 or 97) GC. IIRC it's a 4.0 and I know it's an automatic, is this the era of GCs with failure prone autos? What maintenance gremlins and issues should I be looking for once I get it home? The folks just replaced the battery, brakes/rotors, and water pump, and I know the ol' AMC 4.0 is basically unkillable, so I just need to know if there's any lurking big repair bills on the horizon with one of these. I'm assuming at the least I should flush the trans and PS fluid and probably change the differential oil. Also, are they SAE or metric? Also also, anyone have experience swapping one of these from auto to an AX15?
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May 25, 2015 07:22
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HotCanadianChick posted:Can anyone tell me about mid 90's Jeep Grand Cherokees? My parents bought a Tahoe to replace theirs and are offering to just give me and my wife their (I think 96 or 97) GC. IIRC it's a 4.0 and I know it's an automatic, is this the era of GCs with failure prone autos? What maintenance gremlins and issues should I be looking for once I get it home? SAE or metric? I assume a combination of the two in different areas, because gently caress you, that's why.
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May 25, 2015 10:03
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