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Slavvy posted:Take apart the dizzy and look for oil inside. Is there supposed to be oil inside or no? Because the old one had oil inside.
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May 29, 2015 01:27
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Bad seal spotted.
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May 29, 2015 01:34
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TheFrailNinja posted:Is there supposed to be oil inside or no? Because the old one had oil inside. Yeah oil bad, it prevents the rotor from making good electrical contact with the plug wire terminals. Replace the seal if you haven't already. The old cap might work if you clean the poo poo out of it, but if you have a new one just use that. Get a new rotor too if you don't have one.
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May 29, 2015 01:47
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VelociBacon posted:That's about the amount I'd expect to pay for that work. Yeah. That's why I ok'ed the belt/pump when they called me about adding it on, even though I didn't really want to be throwing more parts at this thing (I'd just as soon have been looking at picking up something new in ~6 months). I'm not really put out by the work that was done as much as I am about them repeatedly jerking me around on timeframes.
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May 29, 2015 01:53
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TheFrailNinja posted:Is there supposed to be oil inside or no? Because the old one had oil inside. To elaborate on what others have said: there is an external o-ring around the dizzy shaft, and an internal seal (looks just like a gear shifter shaft seal on a bike) around the distributor drive shaft itself. When these spring a leak, they let oil into the distributor. Depending on the internal shape and orientation this might lead to misfiring and stuff, or it might not do anything. What happens in the long run is the ignition coil starts deforming and cracking because of being covered in oil all the time and eventually things just stop working. The little timing pick ups can do the same thing, as can the igniter inside. Overfilling the crank case could, maybe, cause a shitload of oil to get inside the distributor and stop things the hard way. Or the junkyard dizzy could have had a busted seal already. FWIW nearly every Honda at the various pick and pulls in my town has no distributor, so it's a fairly common problem. Ditto Toyotas.
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May 29, 2015 02:18
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VelociBacon posted:That's about the amount I'd expect to pay for that work. USDM cars typically recommend it around 90-120k, or 7 years. So it wasn't due by mileage, but it was massively overdue by age, and that timing belt was likely dry rotted to hell and just waiting for someone to sneeze. If you handed me two identical cars with timing belts, both the same age, both original timing belts, but one with very low miles for its age (such as this 9 year old car with <70k), and one with average miles, I'd trust the average one more - the timing belt wouldn't have had as much of a chance to rot, IMO.
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May 29, 2015 06:12
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Toshimo posted:Yeah. That's why I ok'ed the belt/pump when they called me about adding it on, even though I didn't really want to be throwing more parts at this thing (I'd just as soon have been looking at picking up something new in ~6 months). The guy was probably reluctant to tear apart the timing gear to find the leak until he could be sure the leak was coming from underneath the timing cover. "I didn't find the leak but I did a $600 timing belt job for you." is not a good way to start a conversation with a customer. Finding oil leaks is one of those things where it can take 2 minutes or 2 days, and time spent diagnosing is money they aren't making with high margin jobs like oil changes. If you weren't happy with how they were communicating with you or they didn't understand how they were putting you out, go somewhere else next time - a good mechanic is hard to find.
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May 29, 2015 12:39
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A couple of weeks ago, my 06 Silverado 2500 started shifting really roughly. Every gear change was a huge jerk, not just 1-2, which seems to be a common problem. It only gets driven maybe once a week, so I usually check all the fluids and let it warm up for a bit before taking it out on the road. This time I just hopped in a drove off, since I was pressed for time. It started acting up as soon as I put it into reverse, slamming itself into gear and launching halfway down the driveway. I drove it a few miles across town, with it shifting bad the whole way, no matter how I drove it. After I parked, I checked all of the fluids, and they were at their proper levels. I turned it off for about 10 minutes, and when I started it back up it worked fine. I drove it around town a little more with no issues, and even stopped and started it a couple of times to see if it would come back. A little bit of googling only came up with one reference to rough shifting outside of 1-2. It's #26 on this page So, I did exactly what the start of the thread says not to do, and went ahead and ordered a replacement tps. I went outside a few minutes ago to put it on, and discovered that the factory one is riveted in place...what the gently caress!? Also, I just took it for a spin under the same conditions as before, and it was still working fine. My question is two-fold: 1- Does anyone know of any other possible causes for the problem? 2- Is there an easier way to remove rivets than going to town with a drill?
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May 29, 2015 18:56
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BLARGHLE posted:A couple of weeks ago, my 06 Silverado 2500 started shifting really roughly. Every gear change was a huge jerk, not just 1-2, which seems to be a common problem. Pretty sure its a 4L80E in your truck, the 60E is for half tons. They are two different beasts.
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May 29, 2015 20:25
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rdb posted:Pretty sure its a 4L80E in your truck, the 60E is for half tons. They are two different beasts. Searching for 4L80E brought up a little more info than just looking up 06 Silverado. This seems like a pretty thorough list of possible problems. I guess now I need to go dig up the multimeter to test various connectors, and maybe see about finding somebody with a code reader or scan tool...
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May 30, 2015 03:11
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BLARGHLE posted:Searching for 4L80E brought up a little more info than just looking up 06 Silverado. I think your on the right track with the electrics being the issue, beware however the codes listed in the link you have are for an older OBDI truck. I googled around a bit, sometimes oil can get into the main electronic connector for the trans and cause issues. I had an older (1993) sierra with a bad ecu that cranked the line pressure within the transmission as high as it would go for some real neck snapping shifts. Sounds like yours is intermittently doing something similar. I would start there, and maybe a fluid/filter change as well if your trans temps are more than ambient+100 degrees. And yeah a hptuners cable would help you big time with this. It can make a nice data log of the tps readings etc while the problem is occurring. An elm327 and a torque app may do that as well.
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May 30, 2015 03:42
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Slavvy posted:Could be a couple of things, I'd need a video to tell you more. Those engines tend to be quite soft in the sonata (don't know why, in every other car the theta II is a tank) so it could be something really grim inside the engine going wrong. But it could also be a bad timing chain tensioner, or a loose exhaust shield, or even just pinging from low octane fuel. Got a video this morning after getting an oil change. Tried to capture a few different acceleration scenarios. It's not a consistent thing it seems, except for that it consistently happens. https://youtu.be/QDsCHKSxKVM
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May 30, 2015 17:19
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some texas redneck posted:USDM cars typically recommend it around 90-120k, or 7 years. So it wasn't due by mileage, but it was massively overdue by age, and that timing belt was likely dry rotted to hell and just waiting for someone to sneeze. I actually am back into a USDM car thanks very much  . Sold the RHD STI for $1,600 more than I paid for it and bought a 07 GTI with 53k Kms on it for $10k.
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May 30, 2015 17:21
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I have a dumb problem. 2001 Ford Focus ZTS sedan. The power door locks went out. There is a fuse hidden behind the fuse box under the dash, it was blow, I replaced it. Now the locks still don't work. There is an electronics box behind the glove box that controls the door locks and the anti-theft that clicks when I try the door lock switches. Now my real problem: I have kids and I put the child safety on the rear passenger door and because the power locks don't work I can't unlock that door or open it at all. I pulled the wiring plug for the door out of the frame and tested it for continuity. I think I found which wires are for the door speaker and which are for the power window but none of the other wires seem to do anything. I checked the other side door and it was the same. I figured I should be able to just power the actuator to get my door unlocked but I don't know which wires to power. Anyone know what I can do?
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May 30, 2015 20:58
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DiverTwig posted:Got a video this morning after getting an oil change. Tried to capture a few different acceleration scenarios. It's not a consistent thing it seems, except for that it consistently happens. There are three possibilities here: 1. Worst pinging of all time (not that likely, caused by lower octane fuel than the engine is designed for) 2. Bad wrist pin bearing (engine is hosed, sell car immediately) 3. Aftermarket oil filter causing oil starvation knock (common as gently caress on those engines) If it were my car I would stop driving, change the oil and put on a genuine filter, see if it goes away then price the car on craigslist accordingly. e: I can't loving count! Slavvy fucked around with this message at 10:03 on May 31, 2015 |
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May 30, 2015 21:11
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I know having coolant line handle fuel is generally a bad thing, but what about the other way around. Can I have coolant running through a fuel line without issue?
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May 31, 2015 03:13
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Elmnt80 posted:I know having coolant line handle fuel is generally a bad thing, but what about the other way around. Can I have coolant running through a fuel line without issue? Rubber is rubber. The issue is whether if it has the woven reinforcement threads in it to handle the pressure. Fuel injection grade hose can take the high pressures of fuel injection pumps and everything under that. In fact I did that for this odd 3/8" branch off a tee that went into the throttle body on my '88 F150. The 90 degree bend in the factory molded hose wasn't too sharp and I had plenty of room to get away with straight hose. My shop didn't have 3/8" heater hose, so I got 3/8" fuel hose.
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May 31, 2015 03:50
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kid sinister posted:Rubber is rubber. Its not. Different hoses are rated for different types of fluids in addition to pressure, temperature, and bend radius. That said, I'd be surprised if a fuel line couldn't handle coolant. Coolant is pretty benign. Uthor fucked around with this message at 04:00 on May 31, 2015 |
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May 31, 2015 03:58
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When it comes to rubber, even the color can affect the performance. It is really a pain.
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May 31, 2015 04:09
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Slavvy posted:There are three possibilities here: I can't see it pinging while being revved in park/neutral from low octane fuel. I also can't see a crappy oil filter causing that much oil starvation when the engine isn't under any kind of load. #2 or #4 (where's #3 Slav?). Contact the oil change place and tell them it started telling knock knock jokes immediately after they changed the oil, but be prepared for them to laugh and hang up. (ok don't word it like that, but say you got an oil change, and it immediately started knocking) Don't be afraid to make a corporate complaint, if it's a chain place. And I agree with Slavvy. Even if it's #4, I'd personally still get rid of the car, or get ready for an engine swap. Once the knocks start escaping, even if it's from something like a crappy oil filter causing starvation, significant damage has already been done. If you're particularly attached to the car and it's in good shape, and know your way around cars, there's tons of those engines in junkyards.
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May 31, 2015 06:30
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some texas redneck posted:#2 or #4 (where's #3 Slav?). gently caress, long day. Anecdotally I can say the Theta 2 in those cars specifically seems to be made of glass. I've seen two of them that poo poo the bed and chucked rods out the side for seemingly no real reason; the second one I watched happen right in front of me when I challenged my boss to see how quick he could blow it up. It took us all by surprise when it took all of eight seconds - I hadn't even grabbed anything to catch the oil before it blew. I agree the oil filter explanation is unsatisfactory. I can say the genuine oil filter is almost double the external diameter than most companies list for the aftermarket part. Maybe they're slightly different inside somehow and it impedes the flow? I dunno. Worth taking a run at the lube place regardless.
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May 31, 2015 10:08
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Slavvy posted:I agree the oil filter explanation is unsatisfactory. I can say the genuine oil filter is almost double the external diameter than most companies list for the aftermarket part. Maybe they're slightly different inside somehow and it impedes the flow? I dunno. Engine rattle complaints were fairly common when I was working at Nissan. Almost every single one was caused by an aftermarket oil filter, and solved by changing. The techs suggested something about the anti-drain back valves. For <  it's worth a shot.For my question, crossposted from the Volvo thread due to low traffic: I bought this 2005 S60 2.5T AWD. Seems to mostly be in good shape and drives nice, but a couple days after starting to drive it, I got a few codes and MIL popped on. Codes are 640D Turbo Control/Turbo signal low (P2281 OBD), and 216D/21E0 Long term fuel stuck lean (P2188 OBD) Also translates as Adaptive Heated O2 faulty signal. These are unfamiliar to me. Google yields very little, especially anything with successful fixes. Where do I even start? update: Two days ago, I couldn't start it. It cranks and starts normally, then fires up and stalls. Nothing obviously out of place, loose, sucking air or anything else strange under the hood. I unplugged the MAF, and it started and idled perfectly. It also started after I plugged it back in, and I drove it home. Been riding my bike since then, so not sure what will happen next time.
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May 31, 2015 14:15
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mr.belowaverage posted:Engine rattle complaints were fairly common when I was working at Nissan. Almost every single one was caused by an aftermarket oil filter, and solved by changing. The techs suggested something about the anti-drain back valves. For < Would using an OEM filter be better for my 1995 Nissan XE (VG30E / 3.0 V6 / 5 spd) pickup, you think? It has ~70K mi., no CEL appearances, and no trouble codes. What it does have, though, is the typical ticking indicative of lifter and/or exhaust manifold bolt issues. I don't expect an oil filter to cure that, but I wonder if it's something I should be doing anyway. I use whatever the quick change shops throw on it. If I bring in my own filter, will most places have an issue with that? (I'd do my own oil changes, but I don't have a good spot to do them.)
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May 31, 2015 14:45
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My 2013 Impala doesn't have a bracket for the front license plate. This is the first time I've dealt with this problem. What's the best way to handle this without drilling anything?
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May 31, 2015 20:34
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OneThousandMonkeys posted:My 2013 Impala doesn't have a bracket for the front license plate. This is the first time I've dealt with this problem. What's the best way to handle this without drilling anything? The absolute easiest way would be if you don't live in a 2-plate state and just left it off. Without drilling though, you would be left to duck tape, 2-sided tape, epoxy, daisy chaining cable ties or sticking it inside the windshield corner.
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May 31, 2015 20:37
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kid sinister posted:The absolute easiest way would be if you don't live in a 2-plate state and just left it off. Without drilling though, you would be left to duck tape, 2-sided tape, epoxy, daisy chaining cable ties or sticking it inside the windshield corner. I'm in Washington, so no dice.
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May 31, 2015 20:41
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OneThousandMonkeys posted:I'm in Washington, so no dice. In that case, there are a couple products out there for attaching a front license plate holder without drilling into the bumper. Most depend on attaching either though a hole in the bumper for a tow hook or on a big L bracket that mounts under the bumper somewhere. Edit: or sometimes a bracket that fits through the gap between the grill and bumper, if those are 2 different panels on your car. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 21:00 on May 31, 2015 |
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May 31, 2015 20:55
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Arriviste posted:Would using an OEM filter be better for my 1995 Nissan XE (VG30E / 3.0 V6 / 5 spd) pickup, you think? It has ~70K mi., no CEL appearances, and no trouble codes. What it does have, though, is the typical ticking indicative of lifter and/or exhaust manifold bolt issues. I don't expect an oil filter to cure that, but I wonder if it's something I should be doing anyway. I use whatever the quick change shops throw on it. If I bring in my own filter, will most places have an issue with that? (I'd do my own oil changes, but I don't have a good spot to do them.) I doubt it makes any difference to the VG30. What oil viscosity do you use? Often that ticking comes when people over-estimate the oldness and shittyness of their engine and dump 20w50 in when the car was intended for 10w30.
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May 31, 2015 21:13
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I replaced the regular headlights in my 2009 rabbit and now when I flick the turn signal a talk forward, the high beams (and indicator) don't turn on. If I pull it back to flash them, they do turn on (along with the indicator for high beams). I bought the Sylvania extra super hyper bright bulbs. Low/high beams are separate bulbs.
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May 31, 2015 21:17
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Slavvy posted:I doubt it makes any difference to the VG30. What oil viscosity do you use? Often that ticking comes when people over-estimate the oldness and shittyness of their engine and dump 20w50 in when the car was intended for 10w30. Thanks. I use 5W30 and intend to start using synthetic for high mileage at my next change in a couple thousand miles.
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May 31, 2015 21:28
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It's worth chucking some engine flush in there before your next oil change to see if you can clear up the lifters a little bit. Ignore the hysteria about it that often comes up in this thread - it takes a lot more than that to harm one of those engines, and you might get lucky and make it sound a little better.
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May 31, 2015 21:38
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A friend of mine is looking at a 2001 Accord V6 automatic. This is the vintage to avoid for the auto, right?
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May 31, 2015 21:46
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Fart Pipe posted:A friend of mine is looking at a 2001 Accord V6 automatic. This is the vintage to avoid for the auto, right? Yes. Especially the V6.
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May 31, 2015 21:50
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Goober Peas posted:Yes. Especially the V6. Yea thats what I thought, thanks.
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May 31, 2015 21:53
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OneThousandMonkeys posted:I'm in Washington, so no dice. Have you received a fix it ticket or do you know the police are especially anal about writing tickets for front plates? I live in a two-plate state as well and haven't had a front plate installed since 2005, ND despite having been pulled over and ticketed a few times in 10 years never had a ticket for the plate or even had the cop give me trouble about it. A lot of law enforcement has a "not my job"/don't believe enforcing the front plate law is worth their time. Molybdenum posted:Low/high beams are separate bulbs. Did the original headlights have separate bulbs or were they compound single bulbs? You may need a different relay or jump the low and high beam pins at the light control stalk.
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May 31, 2015 22:44
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Slavvy posted:It's worth chucking some engine flush in there before your next oil change to see if you can clear up the lifters a little bit. Ignore the hysteria about it that often comes up in this thread - it takes a lot more than that to harm one of those engines, and you might get lucky and make it sound a little better. Heh. Yeah, I got some Lucas but the drat truck won't burn any oil so I can have room to add it!
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May 31, 2015 22:48
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Geoj posted:
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May 31, 2015 23:20
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My GTI has different bulbs for flash to pass versus turning on the high beams, but it also has HID bulbs for the low/high beams. Are you certain that the lows and highs are completely separate on the Rabbit? If it's like the GTI, then it sounds like the new bulbs are junk as those are what should be used for the high beams.
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Jun 1, 2015 00:15
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Geoj posted:Have you received a fix it ticket or do you know the police are especially anal about writing tickets for front plates? I live in a two-plate state as well and haven't had a front plate installed since 2005, ND despite having been pulled over and ticketed a few times in 10 years never had a ticket for the plate or even had the cop give me trouble about it. A lot of law enforcement has a "not my job"/don't believe enforcing the front plate law is worth their time. Well, I ended up just getting the stupid holes screwed in today because it was a five-minute process, there's never going to be a time where I need to see the beautiful bumper behind my license plate, most of the other stuff wouldn't work in my case/looks ghetto, and I'd really rather not get pulled over on my way to work in an area that has cops looking for people during rush hour anyway.
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Jun 1, 2015 00:16
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Tire repair question and actively soliciting second (and third, fourth) opinions. I pulled a 3" wood screw out of my tire today. Being Sunday no real tire shops were open so I did a quick repair at home with a plug kit. It was right on the radius of the tread/sidewall. I know sidewall repairs are verboten, but I thought I would give it a try. I plugged it and drove the car pretty hard for about an hour, but I'm second guessing myself and wondering if I should just replace the tire(s). The biggest issue I have is I am driving through Reno/Desert next week and while I of course have a spare I'd rather not have a questionable tire on the trip. Further compounding it is that it's a Subaru so if I replace it, I'm probably replacing 4.. which really sucks as they are probably 80%+.  
slidebite fucked around with this message at 00:51 on Jun 1, 2015 |
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Jun 1, 2015 00:49
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