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porkfriedrice posted:Bought the truck about three years ago with ~78,000 miles, now has ~109,000. As far as I know the water pump is original. You think the water pump is losing its efficiency? Replacing that pump can only help if you ask me. Is there a fan belt or are there motors running the radiator fan? My impreza had a similar issue due to one of the two fans having a blown fuse. Disregard if your fan is belt driven.
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Jul 24, 2015 23:52
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Mercury Ballistic posted:Replacing that pump can only help if you ask me. Is there a fan belt or are there motors running the radiator fan? Yeah it's belt driven, that's why my first thought was fan clutch. Hate replacing a part without knowing for sure it's the cause, but an AC Delco on Rock Auto is only $42, I might as well.
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Jul 25, 2015 00:02
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Mercury Ballistic posted:Brother borrowed the truck today. Tells me he will gas it this time. He made it about 4 miles and got a CEL. I don't know what to think. I have been driving it about 300 miles in the last 10 days alone, no problems. Go for a drive with him, watch him left foot brake and WOT to get down the block, never lend the truck again.
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Jul 25, 2015 00:20
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BadSamaritan posted:My apologies if this isn't the right thread for this, but it's my first time buying a car from a non-craigslist source and I don't know what counts as normal. Unfortunately it's for a car <$10k so the dealerships don't seem to care much. You know what your gut tells you.
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Jul 25, 2015 00:29
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Slavvy posted:Are you a 90's kid or just don't realise that literally every EFI car was like this until someone thought to make a pluggy-in-thingy? I never did fuel injected cars until I bought an OBDII truck in 2001. So like most of us born in the late 70s/early 80s I have a weird time slip on early fuel injection cars. If the van was a 1970s model I wouldn't have these questions. Anyway the light is off now and we can't make it come on again. Got to play a show, but maybe it will come back on tomorrow and I can play with the flash thing. Mr. Wiggles fucked around with this message at 01:50 on Jul 25, 2015 |
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Jul 25, 2015 01:38
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BadSamaritan posted:Am I right in just walking away from this YES. And if at all possible separate your finance from the purchase. Like go to your bank or credit union and tell them what you want to spend on a car and see if they will loan you the money.
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Jul 25, 2015 03:05
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porkfriedrice posted:Yeah it's belt driven, that's why my first thought was fan clutch. Sometimes there's an aux electric fan in addition to the belt driven one that kicks on when the AC is running or a temp sensor tells the ECU that more cooling is needed (my BMW has this type of setup). I would look for additional fans mounted up in front of the condenser before throwing parts at it.
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Jul 25, 2015 05:27
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BadSamaritan posted:Am I right in just walking away from this bs or is it a reasonable delay for a credit check? I'm just surprised because I thought it was a decently respected dealership but I don't really want to give them money if they're jerking me around like I suspect they are. There's absolutely no excuse for being treated this way. I bought my 10 year old 330ci from an Audi dealership that had, like, six used cars in total on their lot. There was no pressure, no run around, and they were even happy to drive the car over to my preferred local mechanic for a pre-purchase inspection. Tell the dealership that you're walking unless they cut the poo poo and be prepared to follow through. Also, follow Motronic's advice if you possibly can.
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Jul 25, 2015 06:23
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At what mileage should I consider a suspension refresh? I'm thinking about my Saabaru in particular and am not sure what I should look at/replace besides bushings - springs and struts? Anything else?
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Jul 25, 2015 07:28
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Black88GTA posted:Sometimes there's an aux electric fan in addition to the belt driven one that kicks on when the AC is running or a temp sensor tells the ECU that more cooling is needed (my BMW has this type of setup). I would look for additional fans mounted up in front of the condenser before throwing parts at it. There are no other fans.
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Jul 25, 2015 07:29
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blk posted:At what mileage should I consider a suspension refresh? I'm thinking about my Saabaru in particular and am not sure what I should look at/replace besides bushings - springs and struts? Anything else? 70-100k depending on road quality and butt fatness
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Jul 25, 2015 09:45
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I mentioned this in the Hot Hatch thread but would appreciate input from here. I have a 2014 Ford Focus ST. The clutch pedal has a return assist spring. Against all logic, I read some owner forums and learned that many have removed this spring and found the new clutch pedal feel to be superior. I tend to agree. The spring popped out easily and the pedal feels much better to me, with a more normal return position (an inch or two lower than with the spring installed). Previously, the pedal sat uncomfortably high for my taste, and had a long, uneven resistance that made smooth shifting difficult. I much, much prefer the feel of this pedal with the spring removed. Are there consequences for operating the clutch without this spring? If it's non essential I'd like to leave it out, but not to the detriment of my clutch. Thanks. Threads discussing the modification here: http://www.focusst.org/forum/focus-st-discussions/37372-does-focus-st-have-assistance-clutch-spring.html https://www.reddit.com/r/FiestaST/comments/343rpe/fiesta_st_clutch_spring_a_free_mod_to_put_a_bit/ http://oppositelock.kinja.com/focus-st-owners-do-this-mod-now-1700259489
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Jul 25, 2015 14:53
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Looking for some input on a brake/hub/bearing issue: So, about three weeks ago, I replaced the front pads and rotors on my 2008 honda civic. It was my first time doing it so it's very possible I screwed something up. Fast forward to today, I rotated my tires (should've done it when I did by brakes but oh well) and I'm driving around and I hear an intermittent sound coming from my front passenger wheel. The sound was noticeable when I was driving next to other cars, fences, etc. and could hear the sounds reflecting. Keep in mind though, it wasn't a consistent sound, it was happening as my wheel was rotating in the same spot. I get home after 15 miles of driving and I could smell a "hot brake smell" and my lug nuts/wheel area are hot as poo poo on that side. So do I have a warped rotor or misaligned brake pad or something? Or is it a bearing/hub? marsisol fucked around with this message at 19:49 on Jul 25, 2015 |
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Jul 25, 2015 19:47
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marsisol posted:Looking for some input on a brake/hub/bearing issue: Most likely a dragging pad, check your slider pins. e: I guess you could have a rotor that's not mounted flush against the hub but that's pretty hard to do.
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Jul 25, 2015 19:50
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marsisol posted:Looking for some input on a brake/hub/bearing issue: I have 2 8th gen civics and both have had seized slide pins. The way I found out was I heard a loud pinging sound as the rotor cooled after driving.
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Jul 25, 2015 20:13
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puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 03:37 on Jan 4, 2020 |
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Jul 25, 2015 21:32
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Are those loving wire nuts? Prime indicator of a hack job right there.
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Jul 25, 2015 21:38
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IOwnCalculus posted:Are those loving wire nuts? Prime indicator of a hack job right there. If it's the build quality of the few golf carts I've had the displeasure of working on those could be from the factory.
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Jul 25, 2015 22:26
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puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 03:36 on Jan 4, 2020 |
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Jul 25, 2015 23:11
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porkfriedrice posted:There are no other fans. As extra input to your problem, it's normal for the temp to go up while the car sits (the water pump is no longer circulating the water, so it just sits and absorbs the heat from everything without being able to dissipate it) and it's normal for it to go back down once you get the water flowing and air across the radiator again. I'm just slightly concerned about how high it gets. Normal operating temperature (for me, in an unrelated vehicle) is 180-195 degrees, and if I let it sit it'll go up to 210 or so. 235 seems like "too hot" to me, but maybe it's not, in your application?
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Jul 25, 2015 23:56
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BadSamaritan posted:My apologies if this isn't the right thread for this, but it's my first time buying a car from a non-craigslist source and I don't know what counts as normal. Unfortunately it's for a car <$10k so the dealerships don't seem to care much. There is no such thing as a trustworthy or respected dealership. Go to your credit union (preferred) or bank and arrange financing through them first. Then go back to the dealership with your pre-approved loan and negotiate solely on the sticker price, since you've already hashed out payments and such with the lender ahead of time. It's the only way to avoid bullshit.
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Jul 26, 2015 00:50
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Raluek posted:As extra input to your problem, it's normal for the temp to go up while the car sits (the water pump is no longer circulating the water, so it just sits and absorbs the heat from everything without being able to dissipate it) and it's normal for it to go back down once you get the water flowing and air across the radiator again. I'm just slightly concerned about how high it gets. Normal operating temperature (for me, in an unrelated vehicle) is 180-195 degrees, and if I let it sit it'll go up to 210 or so. 235 seems like "too hot" to me, but maybe it's not, in your application? Yeah, to me it's too hot. I imagine it's never a good idea to run an engine at that temp, right? I haven't noticed any other cooling issues, like I said earlier it's definitely due a flush. The temp does creep up a bit if I have the A/C on and let the truck idle, but I don't think it has ever gotten above 210.
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Jul 26, 2015 06:02
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So remember I posted about stepdad's F-150 and its flashing "O/D OFF" light? Two transmission shops immediately said it needed a rebuild without even driving it. Aamco, of all places, pulled codes out of it, said they were almost positive it was electrical (it was spitting several temp-related codes that would immediately come back after being cleared?) and they thought that the transmission itself was fine. They were right. There's apparently some electrical stuff inside the transmission itself that had gone bad; they had to remove the valve body to get to it from what I understand, but it's back together, and the O/D OFF light is no longer flashing. Added bonus is it got a badly needed ATF change. They said the filter looked brand new and that there was zero material in the pan, and said they felt it was in good shape, especially given the age and miles (2001 with about 130k). It seems to shift slightly firmer now as well. I didn't expect Aamco to be the honest shop. porkfriedrice posted:Yeah, to me it's too hot. I imagine it's never a good idea to run an engine at that temp, right? A lot of newer vehicles tend to run hotter for emissions purposes. I know my 06 Saturn tends to creep up to 210-215 (a bit over half on the gauge) before the fan even kicks on, unless I'm running the a/c. It doesn't heat soak as bad as your Blazer, but it also has about half the engine (and it's all aluminum instead of having an iron block). You also have a mechanical fan, so it's going to get a bit warmer if you idle with the a/c on for extended periods. It still wouldn't hurt to replace the fan clutch and thermostat; when it's hot, the fan should basically be running at engine RPM (i.e. screaming). Also make sure your fan shroud is in place and attached properly. I agree that a cooling system flush definitely wouldn't hurt things. As long as it comes down quickly once you start it though, I don't really think there's an issue (someone please correct me if I'm wrong though).
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Jul 26, 2015 06:20
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Motronic posted:If it's the build quality of the few golf carts I've had the displeasure of working on those could be from the factory.  Extra posted:Are standard heat shrink crimp connectors suitable Yeah, they're fine. Main thing is you need to have a good crimper, quality crimps, and quality wire. The HF ratcheting crimper is good as long as it fits the crimps you use (I found mine to be too big for heatshrink crimps).
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Jul 26, 2015 15:23
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'86 MR2, still trying to chase down a steering wheel shake at highway speeds. Staying at a constant 70, the shake will come and go in a sinusoidal pattern. It's had a balance and alignment and all the bushings are good. I was checking the ball joints and tie rods today, and, while checking passenger rear ball joint, I noticed the wheel has significant play in the toe in/out axis, but only when the wheel is hanging down. If I jack it up by the control arm, it's as stiff as it should be with no clicking. As long as it's fine in the jacked up position, is the ball joint still good, or if it clicks while hanging does it still mean it's bad? edit: Might try this fix if I can't figure it out the internet posted:I had the same vibration on my SW20. I eliminated the problem by wrecking the car. AncientTV fucked around with this message at 16:14 on Jul 26, 2015 |
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Jul 26, 2015 16:09
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So how old are the tires?  It's probably in the tires.
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Jul 26, 2015 19:07
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What's the preferred type of windshield sunshade? Accordion, 2 overlapping squares, or something else?
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Jul 26, 2015 19:29
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I'm pretty sure we're in a "you're hosed, new transmission or a new car" situation, but I'm going to pray it's not and see what you guys think. 2001 Ford Focus, 1.6L automatic, 130k miles ...blue. (sorry, I'm in gallows-humor mode at the moment.) Car began behaving strangely in two distinct ways, simultaneously. Presumably, they're related. One, the engine is struggling at idle, and will stall out if not given a bit of throttle. At speed, it behaves normally. Two, when slowing down, it feels like braking is not enough to stop the car normally, that it seems to continue to be pulling forward, even as the brakes engage. My incredibly uninformed assumption is that the transmission is declining to downshift/disengage/something at low speeds and idle. I've checked the ATF level, it appears good, and the fluid is a fairly clean red color. I'm going to get some lunch and try not to panic about this.
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Jul 26, 2015 19:59
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Josh Lyman posted:What's the preferred type of windshield sunshade? Accordion, 2 overlapping squares, or something else? That's pretty much a matter of opinion, and how much storage space you have for the length of an accordion vs the overlapping (which I believe collapse much smaller for storage). A better question (which I'd like answered) is which ones don't disintegrate and leave nylon dust sheddings all over my interior in Florida heat? I get cabin temps up to like 140 F on hot days when it sits. Probably the main answer to both is "don't go super cheap".
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Jul 26, 2015 20:01
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So my 2010 Acura TSX 4cyl with tech package wouldn't start today at first. For the past couple days it's been sluggish to start, turning over a few times before finally starting. Today it wouldn't at all. It turned over and the battery turned on, windows rolled down, etc. I was supposed to meet my wife somewhere and I called her and we made a plan to deal with this. Then I went back to my car and it started, not really wanting to start though. When I got it started, my nav system display asked for the radio code. I turned it off and back on twice and had no issue starting again so I think the fact I didn't drive it at all yesterday didn't help. Does this sound like the battery, alternator or starter? 
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Jul 26, 2015 20:32
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The engine cranked so the starter's fine. It sure sounds like a battery to me. If it was an alternator the car would die while driving. Replace the battery and make sure you have 14 volts while running.
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Jul 26, 2015 20:36
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Allen Wren posted:I'm pretty sure we're in a "you're hosed, new transmission or a new car" situation, but I'm going to pray it's not and see what you guys think. First problem: Check the tube for the cold idle return its made out of paper and makes the car idle like rear end if its cracked or collapsed which is probably the case. I had this happen in my mt focus and had to 3 pedal stop or I would stall. Maybe the auto has an anti stall that's causing your hard to stop issue.. or you need new brakes.
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Jul 26, 2015 20:52
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life is killing me posted:So my 2010 Acura TSX 4cyl with tech package wouldn't start today at first. For the past couple days it's been sluggish to start, turning over a few times before finally starting. Today it wouldn't at all. It turned over and the battery turned on, windows rolled down, etc. I was supposed to meet my wife somewhere and I called her and we made a plan to deal with this. Then I went back to my car and it started, not really wanting to start though. When I got it started, my nav system display asked for the radio code. I turned it off and back on twice and had no issue starting again so I think the fact I didn't drive it at all yesterday didn't help. Voting battery. It takes a lot more juice to start the engine than it does to roll down the windows or turn on the headlights or radio.
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Jul 26, 2015 20:54
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Hey guys, I need some help with my 97 Jeep Cherokee. 2wd, 5 speed. 140k miles I have had a problem thats been developing for a few months I guess, but only has really seemed to start to become real noticeable lately. There is a type of clunking/clicking somewhere around the rear end. Turning doesn't affect it at all, hitting the brakes doesn't either. It also only does it when I'm coasting. If I leave it in gear all the way until I come to a complete stop you won't hear it at all. It also only starts around 15-20 mph. I want to say it also slows down as the vehicle does, but I'm not 100% sure. I thought this was a bad u joint at first. I went outside just to take a peek and fiddle with it just now. Unfortunately I don't have a decent jack to get the rear tires up in the air, but I did put the transmission in neutral(chocked wheels and handbrake on, dont worry) and crawled under there to look anyway. There is a slight bit of play when I try to spin the driveshaft, I'd guess maybe 1/4 to 1/2"? It's hard to say. It really looked like the u joint was solid and not moving though, and that the play was in the yoke or past it somewhere, but as I said it was hard to tell without being able to spin the tires. It's also possible that whole looseness thing may not even be related. For as long as my family has had this Jeep, it's always been a little bit clunky when you let out on the clutch too fast. After googling, apparently a worn side gear bore in the carrier seems like it matches my clunking sound exactly, however I can't find any more information on what that is/what it takes to fix/what happens if you drive on it anyway. Can someone tell me what happens if a worn side gear bore finally gets bad enough to cause some kind of failure? Is it dangerous or could I risk driving for another few weeks? Either way, I'm going to call some shops tomorrow to at least see how much it would cost for them to look at it for me. I just hope they can do it tomorrow, I'm suppose to work the next 11 days in a row starting tuesday and I'm in a position I can't really miss much work, but that's another story. edit: FWIW I'm pretty sure my Jeep has the Chrysler 8.25" rear Drunk Driver Dad fucked around with this message at 21:32 on Jul 26, 2015 |
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Jul 26, 2015 21:19
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I just bought a 2006 SAAB. Where do I go for SAAB questions?
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Jul 26, 2015 22:23
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TwoFire posted:I just bought a 2006 SAAB. Where do I go for SAAB questions? The very quiet Saab thread? http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3232133
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Jul 26, 2015 22:29
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AncientTV posted:'86 MR2, still trying to chase down a steering wheel shake at highway speeds. Staying at a constant 70, the shake will come and go in a sinusoidal pattern. It's had a balance and alignment and all the bushings are good. I was checking the ball joints and tie rods today, and, while checking passenger rear ball joint, I noticed the wheel has significant play in the toe in/out axis, but only when the wheel is hanging down. If I jack it up by the control arm, it's as stiff as it should be with no clicking. As long as it's fine in the jacked up position, is the ball joint still good, or if it clicks while hanging does it still mean it's bad? The rear tires should not have any play. Replace the joint. Also, look up the date code on the tires. And spin them and see if they wobble.
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Jul 26, 2015 23:35
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Godholio posted:Voting battery. It takes a lot more juice to start the engine than it does to roll down the windows or turn on the headlights or radio. Tried to get it replaced this morning but I stupidly told my wife to go on ahead to work, though her parents had offered their F-350 for my use. I said since it would at least start after overnight sitting, I could get it replaced this morning. That was silly. Haha, no I can't. Don't have time to wait 2-3 hours to get a battery replaced because I need to be working and have appointments. Guess I'll replace it myself, anyone know of any good online car battery stores?
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Jul 27, 2015 14:43
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life is killing me posted:Tried to get it replaced this morning but I stupidly told my wife to go on ahead to work, though her parents had offered their F-350 for my use. I said since it would at least start after overnight sitting, I could get it replaced this morning. That was silly. Haha, no I can't. Don't have time to wait 2-3 hours to get a battery replaced because I need to be working and have appointments. You must be kidding. Shipping alone will double the price since they are heavy and filled with acid. Also, there is a normally a core charge on batteries. Either get a jump and go to autozone or bum a ride to Walmart/advance/autozone/O'Reilly. They change them in the parking lot for free in about 15 minutes. If you want to change it yourself take the old one out and bring it with you. That way they get the right one the first time and you don't have a core to return.
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Jul 27, 2015 15:04
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rdb posted:You must be kidding. Shipping alone will double the price since they are heavy and filled with acid. Also, there is a normally a core charge on batteries. Okay, so a bad idea to order online then. Good to know. And I didn't end up going to Autozone because I didn't know they'd change it at all much less for free, so I'll just end up doing that. I had gone to Pep-Boys (a place I loathe) and they said even making an appointment would only guarantee me the next open bay and I couldn't get immediate service, and it just seemed dumb to wait 2-3 hours to have a simple battery replacement done.
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Jul 27, 2015 15:10
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