|
Senior Funkenstien posted:Alright so atlanta has really lovely roads and my 94 ranger bounced me up into the roof of the cab at least twice today. I have cheap monroe shocks on all around and have never done anything with the springs or anything on the front. You guys think a better quality shock would fix that or do I need to look at shocks and springs? You need to slow down, pick better lines, or not drive a mini pickup. Or at least drive it with a few hundred pounds in the bed. I suppose it's possible your springs are so beat that you are hitting the bump stops, but that seems unlikely and wouldn't happen if you follow the previous advice. Your truck would also handle like a disaster in nearly any situation if the springs and/or shocks were that bad. Arriviste posted:That's Drive and Overdrive. OD has a higher gear ratio and can be used all the time, except for certain situations like towing or steep elevation changes. (AKA "use it for cruisin', not workin'.") The difference between drive and overdrive on an automatic is almost always whether the torque converter locks up (typically at a predetermined speed in top gear, usually around 50 MPH) or not. It isn't "another gear".
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2015 22:59
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 29, 2024 12:03 |
|
|
Motronic posted:You need to slow down, pick better lines, or not drive a mini pickup. Or at least drive it with a few hundred pounds in the bed. I have about 140 pounds in the bed at all times. I get bounced all around by things that are just bumps in the road half the time. It feels like the truck isnt even in contact with the road in the worst of it. Edit: The back has nothing to do with it as far as I can tell. It's the front end that has no absorbing of bumps or anything. It sways and bounces like hell. Senior Funkenstien fucked around with this message at 00:08 on Aug 2, 2015 |
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2015 00:01
|
|
|
Senior Funkenstien posted:It feels like the truck isnt even in contact with the road in the worst of it. This sounds a whole lot like a 1/4 ton pickup to me. But if your is worse than normal, let's talk about just how new these shocks are. And if they are any good at all to begin with (oil leaking out of them, if you bounce a corner a bunch of times and let go do it keep bounding or does it stop inside of one cycle?) Also, how many miles are on this thing? Has anyone would could say "that spring is broken" or other suspension issues looked at it? It's hard to get a sense of just how bad is bad over the internet, but.....as I've said mini trucks typically ride like unmitigated poo poo in the manner you have described.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2015 00:16
|
|
|
Motronic posted:This sounds a whole lot like a 1/4 ton pickup to me. Its got a lot of miles on it. 272000 so far. I replaced the shocks with cheap monroes when I got it almost one year ago. I have gone over it and the springs look fine but they may be worn out but not broken. I went and bounced all corners and the thing sways and rocks like a drunk no matter what corner you bounce. None stop within once cycle.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2015 00:38
|
|
|
I really want to see a video of this. Not only for diagnostic purposes, either.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2015 01:07
|
|
|
Motronic posted:You need to slow down, pick better lines, or not drive a mini pickup. Or at least drive it with a few hundred pounds in the bed. So is the circle D the OD, or is the regular D? I just want to know what gear to keep it in for normal driving. If we're going up to the mountains, odds are we're doing it in my Subaru anyway, and that's a manual so that's simpler if I need to speed up faster.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2015 01:29
|
|
|
Senior Funkenstien posted:Its got a lot of miles on it. 272000 so far. I replaced the shocks with cheap monroes when I got it almost one year ago. I have gone over it and the springs look fine but they may be worn out but not broken. So your shocks are bad. There is no question about that. Start there. 22 Eargesplitten posted:So is the circle D the OD, or is the regular D? I just want to know what gear to keep it in for normal driving. If we're going up to the mountains, odds are we're doing it in my Subaru anyway, and that's a manual so that's simpler if I need to speed up faster. Put it in overdrive (circle D). This is always the answer unless you are plowing or towing. This information is also in the owners manual that is in your glove box. If it's missing you can find it online at the manufacturer's web site.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2015 01:34
|
|
|
Godholio posted:I really want to see a video of this. I'll try to get you a good vid of it. Thanks Motronic for all the help!
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2015 01:55
|
|
|
I've got a serious problem with my 2009 V6 Ford Mustang I had some water leak into my passenger side via the dash because of some drain that got clogged in the dash board. Now, at random times, when the car is off, the hazard lights will come on and drain my battery, causing me to need a jump. I took it to the dealer and they told me that I need some kind of new control board and that it would cost me $570 to fix. Is there any way to just disable the hazards so this isn't a problem? I'd rather not throw $600 at something that might fix my problem.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2015 02:32
|
|
|
Disabling your warning lights so they don't annoy you isn't the fix. Replacing your fried computer is. Edit: Oh, JUST the hazard lights. Not sure how I misread that. See if anything else is on that fuse and pull it? It probably also controls blinkers and other stuff too, so it's probably not going to be that simple.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2015 02:43
|
|
|
Motronic posted:So your shocks are bad. There is no question about that. Start there. Oh, okay, thanks. We had been putting it in plain D, I'll let her know. It's my fiancee's car, but half the time we go anywhere she wants me to drive anyway. E: It's a ZX2, so I doubt we'll be plowing/towing too much. I enjoy driving it a lot more than I'd expect for a 4-cylinder Ford auto.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2015 03:14
|
|
|
22 Eargesplitten posted:Oh, okay, thanks. We had been putting it in plain D, I'll let her know. It's my fiancee's car, but half the time we go anywhere she wants me to drive anyway. Btw that's not a circle - it's the O for Over Drive. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2015 05:19
|
|
|
Is it possible for a 2002 Golf 2.0L to pass a compression test and still be leaking oil into the cylinders? I thought I had solved my oil consumption issue by replacing the valve cover gasket, but the motor is still going through oil pretty quick, like a quart every 4 weeks.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2015 20:31
|
|
|
scuz posted:Is it possible for a 2002 Golf 2.0L to pass a compression test and still be leaking oil into the cylinders? I thought I had solved my oil consumption issue by replacing the valve cover gasket, but the motor is still going through oil pretty quick, like a quart every 4 weeks. Depending on the conditions of a test and what constitutes "passing", yes. Also, leaking isn't consumption. Valve cover gaskets cause leaks while bad valve guides and various ring/cylinder wall issues (among other things) cause consumption (burning of the oil). Consumption is much worse not only because it's typically more difficult/expensive to repair but also because you are blowing oil through your cats. So exactly how much oil is disappearing how frequently? Are there any other external leaks (like, have you cleaned the motor and then driven it for a while and confirmed no new oil shows up on it or the ground)? Do you blow blue smoke under any conditions (most popularly under acceleration or revving after extended idling)?
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2015 21:47
|
|
|
Motronic posted:l Usually you're right but I am having a really hard time thinking of any application where the difference between drive / overdrive is only the lockup and not an additional gear with a ratio less than 1:1. D in every GM overdrive automatic I've driven (all 700R4s and 4L60 variants) has been third gear, sometimes with or without TCC engagement. OD always enables both fourth gear and the TCC solenoid. On the non-GM autos, both my Honda and Jeep have five-speed autos with a switch on the shifter for OD, which prevents both of them from going past third gear. I think both will still use the lockup clutch. My old Volvo 240 had the same deal, except minus one gear and I don't think it had lockup in the AW70. Besides, I doubt you could call anything an overdrive transmission if there isn't a top gear with a taller than 1:1 ratio. That aside, tldr: put it in OD unless you specifically need to keep it out of overdrive, such as towing and driving up or down steep hills.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2015 22:16
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Depending on the conditions of a test and what constitutes "passing", yes.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2015 23:39
|
|
|
Edit "I can't read"
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2015 00:59
|
|
|
Overdrive means a more than 1:1 final ratio for sure. The torque converter lockup has nothing to with the literal meaning of overdrive. e: After reading it a couple times this is what IOC was saying and I cant read
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2015 02:57
|
|
|
While true, I feel like most autos only lock up in top gear/OD, so turning off one disengages the other. Functionally the same thing. I could be wrong though.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2015 03:56
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Usually you're right but I am having a really hard time thinking of any application where the difference between drive / overdrive is only the lockup and not an additional gear with a ratio less than 1:1. I guess I'm thinking older poo poo with 3/4 speed autos. It's pretty typical there. I guess with 5/6/7/8 speeds they are locking out gears for this kind of thing. But torque converter lockup still doesn't' happen unless you're in top gear as far as I know. (outside of special snowflake) We all know there are exceptions to everything, like chrysler trans that don't use the same gears on the way up as they do on the way down, but I'm just talking generalities.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2015 04:00
|
|
|
Motronic posted:I guess I'm thinking older poo poo with 3/4 speed autos. It's pretty typical there. The TH700R4 and 4L60E that IOC mentioned are 4-speeds. It was my impression that "D" locked out the overdrive gear (fourth; third is 1:1) in those. I don't know of a popular 3-speed overdrive auto, but there might be one.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2015 06:51
|
|
|
Probably related to overdrive chat: most (all) the autos I've driven have D/2/1 drive modes. The numbered ones prevent shifting past those gears, right? Is that just for low traction situations, or is there more to it (or am I even wrong about that?) Also I use the O/D OFF toggle on my focus for coasting down off-ramps / into city speed limit zones, it's a very nice thing to have. Kinda wish I'd just bought a manual though.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2015 07:21
|
|
|
cephalopods posted:The numbered ones prevent shifting past those gears, right? Correct. cephalopods posted:Is that just for low traction situations, or is there more to it (or am I even wrong about that?) I use it for a few things. Either for performance situations where I don't want it to upshift, or when coasting down a long hill (e.g. a mountain) and I don't want to ride the brakes. Which sounds like what you meant by switching off overdrive (which may or may not drop a gear, depending on the trans, apparently).
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2015 07:25
|
|
|
I have recently got my first modern car (a 2002 golf). Having previously only driven a 1983 golf in which every thing was manually operated it's a bit of shock to the system. Anyway does any one know how I can fold the mirrors in, so I can fit it in the garage? In the manual it specifically states that you should only move them using the electronic thing. This only seems to adjust them a small amount, I'm trying to completely fold them flat against the door?
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2015 12:05
|
|
|
I drive a Ford Five Hundred, two symptoms have come on when I was driving yesterday: TC OFF ABS I'm paranoid about it, the Internet hasn't been super helpful but I'm not quite sure where to start
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2015 12:50
|
|
|
Top Hats Monthly posted:I drive a Ford Five Hundred, two symptoms have come on when I was driving yesterday: Try looking up if there are any recalls or known problems with this in the 500? I had a similar problem in my Accord, and it turned out to be electrical in nature. The air bags would disengage when a certain amount of weight was on the passenger seat in front and the TCS would blink on when it wasn't in use (when the TCS light was on, it meant the system was off). Being that a Honda is not a Ford, I'm probably wrong, but it certainly helps to find out if Ford had any recalls on anything that might relate to your problem. It could even be as simple as you needing to find the button to turn it back on. I'm thinking the anti-lock brakes thing is related to the traction control, so it won't hurt to look into it or take it to the dealership where they might have more insight. e: Also, though you're not having air bag problems and this is a totally different car, I found out the airbag problem was indeed a recall that had to do with the airbags deploying in a crash and possibly firing the bolts at you like bullets when the airbags deployed. I'm probably sounding really ignorant right now, but weird crap can happen and you might want to know what sorts of things can happen as a result of existing issues that you wouldn't even think about. life is killing me fucked around with this message at 14:31 on Aug 3, 2015 |
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2015 14:29
|
|
|
I have a 2000 Mazda B2500 (Ford Ranger) and I just picked up a spare tire from the junkyard (full-size). The truck didn't have one when I got it. I'm looking underneath, and I can't figure out how the hell this thing works. It looks like it raises and lowers but the rust prevents me from figuring out how anything attached to it previously. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2015 19:03
|
|
|
CornHolio posted:I have a 2000 Mazda B2500 (Ford Ranger) and I just picked up a spare tire from the junkyard (full-size). The truck didn't have one when I got it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BVucvYCLjcc
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2015 19:14
|
|
|
Raluek posted:Correct. I've seen some cars where in 2, it will lock the transmission into second and will not downshift either. They use this to make it easier to launch in low-traction situations where even light throttle in first gets you wheelspin. But most cars that I've driven will still shift between first and second with the shifter in 2.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2015 19:30
|
|
|
Jippa posted:I have recently got my first modern car (a 2002 golf). Having previously only driven a 1983 golf in which every thing was manually operated it's a bit of shock to the system. Your golf has a mirror with a motor actuator thingy behind it. The motor and mirror are enclosed in the body-colored pod. What your manual is telling you is not to adjust the mirror itself by hand. But you can still fold the whole pod by hand. There will be some resistance initially (which keeps them stiff against the wind when driving) but then you overcome that resistance and they'll fold back.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2015 19:42
|
|
|
Top Hats Monthly posted:I drive a Ford Five Hundred, two symptoms have come on when I was driving yesterday: Wheel speed sensor
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2015 19:58
|
|
|
Leperflesh posted:Your golf has a mirror with a motor actuator thingy behind it. The motor and mirror are enclosed in the body-colored pod. What your manual is telling you is not to adjust the mirror itself by hand. But you can still fold the whole pod by hand. There will be some resistance initially (which keeps them stiff against the wind when driving) but then you overcome that resistance and they'll fold back. Thanks a lot.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2015 20:25
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:I've seen some cars where in 2, it will lock the transmission into second and will not downshift either. They use this to make it easier to launch in low-traction situations where even light throttle in first gets you wheelspin. But most cars that I've driven will still shift between first and second with the shifter in 2. Hm, I've never seen a "manual mode" automatic that will actually hold a gear no matter what. My Chevy certainly doesn't do that. But, that's good to know.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2015 23:03
|
|
|
Raluek posted:Hm, I've never seen a "manual mode" automatic that will actually hold a gear no matter what. My Chevy certainly doesn't do that. But, that's good to know. 1 should hold 1, but 2 won't hold 2.....just keep it out of 3 (so it can be in 1 or 2). From what I understand most transmissions will override this if the rpms go up too high. I know a lot of the 90s/2000s ZF boxes do. Of course this is probably all different with flappy paddle autos. My friends' previous gen S4 would actually hold a gear and you could lug it at low rpms.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2015 23:20
|
|
|
Gear number selection in autos is always a suggestion, usually ignored once you get over a certain speed/RPM. They usually start in that gear and then shift up, though this varies wildly by make and model.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2015 23:21
|
|
|
Raluek posted:Hm, I've never seen a "manual mode" automatic that will actually hold a gear no matter what. My Chevy certainly doesn't do that. But, that's good to know. When I paddle-shift it doesn't hold a gear, at least not 1st. I'm guessing it's probably because it's not actually manual, just has a manual mode that is, I'd venture to speculate, a sportier-feeling automatic
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2015 23:34
|
|
|
Raluek posted:Hm, I've never seen a "manual mode" automatic that will actually hold a gear no matter what. My Chevy certainly doesn't do that. But, that's good to know. On our old W210 Mercedes, you could fake this by putting the shifter in 2 and enabling the "winter" switch - that switch makes it launch in second, and the shifter in 2 will keep it there. Some googling indicates that the 6L80's default programming in the fifth-gen Camaro is to actually launch in second in most situations anyway. EightBit posted:Gear number selection in autos is always a suggestion, usually ignored once you get over a certain speed/RPM. They usually start in that gear and then shift up, though this varies wildly by make and model. This might be true in a lot of flappy-paddle-wannabe setups but is definitely not the case on a lot of older cars. My TH400, if I put it in 2 or 1 it would've done its best to let me valve float the old heads I was running at the time. I've definitely banged my LS1 off of the rev limiter with the 4L60E when I have it in lower gears. It won't downshift until it can do so safely, but once it does it will stay there. I will say that the 6L80E in my dad's old C6 soured me on that style of shifter/transmission combo. Both paddles could be used for up or down shifting, and the lag between paddle press -> shift was enormous. I do think, but I'll have to ask my old man to confirm, that same C6 would hold whatever gear you asked it to. I'm pretty sure when he autocrossed it, he'd launch in first, shift to second when it was practical, and leave it there for the rest of the run without it shifting again. Partly because that lag was so awful you could never time a downshift. I haven't tried it in my CR-V or WJ yet. I will say that the CR-V is the first vehicle I've ever owned that will downshift on its own to use engine braking with cruise enabled on a long downhill.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2015 23:43
|
|
|
Front shocks on my 00 4Runner are shot--have been since purchase. I did the rear shocks first because that was way worse. It was a huge huge improvement in ride quality. I'm finally getting around to the front (bone jarring hits on my local construction  ).Is there a reliable way to tell if coils needs replacing as well? This gen 4Runner is pretty famous for rear sag--but mine is 100% level. I'd prefer not to do it obviously, but if I need to the time is now. Just curious if there were any other obvious signs that would point to tired coils than sagging. 00 4Runner 165k mi 2wd. I'm pretty sure it was a straight pavement queen in South Florida, so wear was reasonably light on most components.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2015 23:53
|
|
|
My mind is seriously blown. My truck had all the tools, and the winch thing worked like a charm. Did deposit a bunch of rust flakes in my driveway, though. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 4, 2015 01:25
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 29, 2024 12:03 |
|
|
LeeMajors posted:Front shocks on my 00 4Runner are shot--have been since purchase. I did the rear shocks first because that was way worse. It was a huge huge improvement in ride quality. I'm finally getting around to the front (bone jarring hits on my local construction Any sagging of the springs will have an absolutely miniscule effect on your car compared to four blown shocks and every bush and balljoint being disintegrated.
|
|
#
?
Aug 4, 2015 01:33
|
|
