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CarForumPoster posted:Brightest OEM replacement headlight? I personally run Phillips X-Treme Visions. They're easily available on Amazon, and don't have a blue tint. They're not significantly brighter, but it's a very noticeable difference on dark roads (the bulbs I replaced were also the original ones from 2005, so there's also that).
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Oct 5, 2015 04:16
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:Rockauto lists 11 different compatible 02 sensors... Mopar #56028301 being the most expensive at $61. BOSCH #15704 at $24 and NTK #23023 at $28 being midrange. I have an NTK in my XJ and recommend it... the older pre91 XJs prefer those, not sure about yours but it's a good brand/safe bet. Cool thanks. i can't order from Rockauto though  If it is the two O2 sensors it'd be the pre-cat one right? I just made another discovery that I don't like one little bit. What I've always thought to be a squeaky idler pulley isn't. At least as far as I can tell. It's either coming from somewhere around a #4 valve or the distributor. This suuuucks.
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Oct 5, 2015 04:18
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General_Failure posted:Cool thanks. i can't order from Rockauto though Both the Bosch and NTK sensors are the same price on Amazon.
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Oct 5, 2015 04:37
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Yeah, it's a mess, I had a mechanic have a look at it and he would have bought it himself if he had the cash. Basically the guy I bought it from was a shithead I knew through other people who lied about everything. I'm almost at the point where I'm willing to accept it as another life lesson (never, ever buy anything from a hippy) and wash my hands of it. Are you able to get the heads off without removing the engine? I was under the impression it's pretty much game over at this point. I'm serious when I say I only have a socket wrench set and one or two wrenches. Does anyone have a link to a step by step? You tube videos always seem to miss something. It's getting colder and I'm not going to have much time to work on it until mid November and the Rockies get pretty cold so... Yeah. rdb posted:How bad is the oil pressure? It's normal for it to fluctuate with rpm and temperature. It was always fairly steady, now as the temp rises the oil goes from quite high to low, swings around a bit and then the van starts lurching at which point I pulled over and let it cool down. There are very substantial amounts of white smoke coming out after one or two minutes, even before it it hits 40C. I drained the oil and it's not milky or anything. Outrail fucked around with this message at 04:46 on Oct 5, 2015 |
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Oct 5, 2015 04:39
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Removed the seats from my car while cleaning it out (yeah, it was that messy). 2006 Saturn Ion (coupe, if it matters). Main issue: there's been a rattling under the passenger seat for quite some time. Turns out it's something related to the airbags (I assume it's whatever electronics detect if there's someone sitting in the seat, and if the seatbelt is fastened - it had a pretty large plug on it, but no yellow wire loom or anything, and it was the only plug going to that seat). One of the screws had backed most of the way out. The problem is, the head of the screw is only accessible by removing the lower cushion, which isn't exactly something I want to do. Any suggestions? For now I've just wedged some paperboard between the seat and the module, but I'd like to reattach it properly. I CAN get to the end of the screw, just not the head of it. Secondary issue: I had to turn on the ignition to roll up the windows at one point while the seats were out (went inside to eat dinner, didn't want stereo disappearing). Now the airbag light is on. I assume this is because the passenger seat's electronics were unplugged at the time. Think disconnecting the battery will reset the airbag system, or is this a "lol you hosed yourself, off to the dealer to reset the SRS computer"? I have to get the airbag light off within the next few days, as I need to get the car inspected.  e: the airbag light is an LED soldered to the cluster, so no removing the bulb.
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Oct 5, 2015 05:26
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:Both the Bosch and NTK sensors are the same price on Amazon. Rub it in. Although perhaps I may be lucky and find one of those sellers that does international shipping on Amazon. The oil looks good by the way except whenever I pull the dipstick out there's a few fine metallic particles stuck to it. A post mortem of the oil and filter will tell volumes. I did some reading and the squeaking can be caused by a lack of lubrication to the rockers. The ones I could see through the filler looked like they had oil flow. I guess it's rocker cover off time too.
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Oct 5, 2015 07:02
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Wrar posted:2008 Honda Civic Coupe Does it bolt into the actual body shell? Maybe drill it and install a nutsert / rivnut?
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Oct 5, 2015 07:14
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Outrail posted:Yeah, it's a mess, I had a mechanic have a look at it and he would have bought it himself if he had the cash. Basically the guy I bought it from was a shithead I knew through other people who lied about everything. I'm almost at the point where I'm willing to accept it as another life lesson (never, ever buy anything from a hippy) and wash my hands of it. The head gasket separates three things: oil, coolant, and cylinders. It can fail in such a way that any two of them connect. So oil could mix with coolant, or either of those could end up in the cylinder...that's what you're seeing. White smoke is coolant being burned. It'll wreck your pistons if you let it go. Whether you can get the heads off without pulling the engine depends on whether you have enough room to actually do it. Most of my vehicles that's been a "yes" but I don't know how far back the engine sits in that van. Here's the thing though...nobody is going to buy that van right now. You might as well give it a shot yourself. If you've been able to remove everything above the heads, you probably have all the tools you'll need except a torque wrench (you absolutely need a torque wrench). The reason it's usually game over when a head gasket fails is because it tends to happen to older vehicles and the owner doesn't want to dump $1500 into getting it fixed. You can do it yourself much cheaper. Looks like you can get the gaskets and head bolts for less than $30 on rockauto. Probably about $100 for a decent torque wrench. If you had aluminum heads you'd want to get them milled flat, but I don't know if anything like that is really needed on iron heads, particularly since you didn't really overheat (but it still wouldn't be expensive). I say go for it.
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Oct 5, 2015 08:53
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Outrail posted:Yeah, it's a mess, I had a mechanic have a look at it and he would have bought it himself if he had the cash. Basically the guy I bought it from was a shithead I knew through other people who lied about everything. I'm almost at the point where I'm willing to accept it as another life lesson (never, ever buy anything from a hippy) and wash my hands of it. I think your head gaskets are toast for sure. As for weather the engine needs to come out, I can't tell you. Some googling suggests that it does not, but you need to raise the body off the subframe for access with some wood blocks. I can tell you a good junkyard engine, complete, is probably less than $500.
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Oct 5, 2015 12:58
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IOwnCalculus posted:Does it bolt into the actual body shell? Maybe drill it and install a nutsert / rivnut? The actual bolt goes into a raised welded in piece piece that separates it slightly from the roof. The mounting point is really secure considering the visor itself is just plastic.
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Oct 5, 2015 15:05
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Woodsy Owl posted:We're not exactly sure what made it smell. Is there an option that would cover both? Would an interior detailing solve the issue? Yes, the most difficult of the two options: remove the carpet and padding from the vehicle so it can be cleaned and dried properly.
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Oct 5, 2015 17:16
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I want as sporty a car as possible and have a budget of around $20k, I have a 2 year old son I'd like to be able to cart around his car seat and my wife, is there anything else I should add to my list of stuff to look at? Used FRS/BRZ 2nd gen Audi TT 996 911 E46 M3 Not really wowed by the sn197 mustang
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Oct 6, 2015 00:04
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WRX seems right up your alley.
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Oct 6, 2015 00:22
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Network42 posted:I want as sporty a car as possible and have a budget of around $20k, I have a 2 year old son I'd like to be able to cart around his car seat and my wife, is there anything else I should add to my list of stuff to look at? I had a similar situation and went with an STi. No kids yet but planned on in the life of the car. Could also do a new no-options WRX for a little more. The FRS back seat is very small...good luck with a car seat. I like the car and as a bang for the buck it is great....but it is no STi when it come to power.
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Oct 6, 2015 00:39
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Network42 posted:I want as sporty a car as possible and have a budget of around $20k, I have a 2 year old son I'd like to be able to cart around his car seat and my wife, is there anything else I should add to my list of stuff to look at? I'll add that the TT is laughably impractical if you have a child (far more than any of those other three) and is also not particularly sporty or fun or good in any way. 996 911's have a bad rap on this forum but I don't know anything about those and I'm actually curious as to why people don't like them.
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Oct 6, 2015 01:01
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Slavvy posted:I'll add that the TT is laughably impractical if you have a child (far more than any of those other three) and is also not particularly sporty or fun or good in any way. The main issue is in the Intermediate Shaft (IMS) bearing. The shaft is gear-driven off the crankshaft, and in turn drives the timing gears. The bearing is set into the engine bellhousing, behind the flywheel next to the crankshaft output. The main issue is that it isn't directly lubricated from the factory, but relies on grease sealed into it to keep the ball bearings lubricated. Any issue at all with that seal, all the grease leaks out, lunching the bearing and rapidly destroying your timing assembly, leading to catastrophic engine failure. The various fixes for it run $1000 or more.
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Oct 6, 2015 01:11
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Also, it has stupid looking headlights and a very early '00s interior, and is arguably the worst looking 911, there's a reason it's in my price range. Sadly 997s are starting to come to around $25k for high milage examples, but that's still a bit beyond my price range for now.
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Oct 6, 2015 01:29
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Enourmo posted:The main issue is in the Intermediate Shaft (IMS) bearing. The shaft is gear-driven off the crankshaft, and in turn drives the timing gears. Huh. I guess it didn't occur to anyone to just make it an open sided bearing and have a plate or something there to keep the engine oil in? This is just more VAG being VAG, isn't it.
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Oct 6, 2015 03:14
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The car: 2001 Cavalier, 2dr, no power windows or locks. The problem: Last Thursday, I rolled the window all the way down to show my ID while going thru the gate at work (I work on a military base). The window did not want to roll back up, which was distressing as 1) it was already pouring and 2) we had Hurricane Joaquin rolling up the coast, so it wasn't gonna stop raining for four more days. The temporary solution: It wasn't that the handle was just spinning; it would stop, and so would the window rolling up. Rolls down fine, but keeps sticking going up. Through a repetition of rolling it down an inch, then it would go up 2 inches, down an inch, up 2, repeat, etc, I finally got it back up so I wouldn't have a soggy rear end car. So the handle's catching something, but you have to do this back and forth motion, and pressing against the window slightly seems to help it keep moving up. I haven't rolled the window down since, which is a bit of a nuisance since now I gotta open my door every time I roll through the gate at work while sheepishly explaining to the MP "sorry, my window's broken!" Not to mention the inability to use a drive-thru ATM or fast food... What I want to know: I found a great Youtube video showing how to take the door panel off, which looks easy-peasy, requiring only a Philips head and a paper clip. I can't however, find any info on what to do next. Every video or article I find is about power windows. What should I be looking for? Is it just off the track, or should be looking for something that's broken/worn out? Will this be obvious when I take the panel off, or by taking the passenger panel off and comparing the two? Is this something a goonette with some degree of fix-it skills and a healthy collection of tools can do herself? It came completely out of nowhere, there had been no problems prior to this. Thankfully the rain has finally passed, and I can work on her tomorrow bc it's my day off (and the weather's gonna be great for the next few days, even if I gently caress it up).
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Oct 6, 2015 03:45
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Best thing you can do is get the door panel off and try to figure what has gone wrong. Failing that take pics and post them here and someone will probably be able to suss out the issue.
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Oct 6, 2015 03:54
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I'm not an expert, but the fact that you have to shimmy it up says to me that the regulator is out of whack. I got real intimate with my Subaru's power window regulator last week. The teeth in mine were out of position which was making the completely functional motor meet more resistance than it could overcome, thus stuck window. I basically fixed it by taking the whole regulator out, and messing with it until it moved freely again. It's really that finicky a thing. I didn't quite know what I was doing at first, but the whole door job took me like 3 hours and I'm not car-savvy, just mechanically capable and in possession of tools. I had a lot of video and photo guides to reference though. My advice to you is to not take anything apart unless you're 100% sure of the steps necessary to do so, and if need be get it back to how it was to start with. Taking the door panel off will give you a limited look at the workings, you may need a mirror and a flashlight to really get a decent look at things inside the door.
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Oct 6, 2015 04:59
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Shere posted:I'm not an expert, but the fact that you have to shimmy it up says to me that the regulator is out of whack. Do hand-cranked windows even have regulators? Something's jammed or broken. Take the door apart, poke around, take pictures, and see what you can figure out.
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Oct 6, 2015 05:06
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Safety Dance posted:Do hand-cranked windows even have regulators? "regulator" just refers to the whole mechanism that translates rotary motion (be that a hand crank or a motor) into linear motion of the window glass. So yes.
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Oct 6, 2015 05:27
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Oh, okay. I always took "regulator" to be an unnecessary word for "motor". I learned something!
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Oct 6, 2015 05:28
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Safety Dance posted:Oh, okay. I always took "regulator" to be an unnecessary word for "motor". I learned something! As did I! I kept seeing regulator in all these sites talking about powered windows and figured that didn't apply to my situation since I got good ol' hand cranks. In the couple cases of non-power windows walk-throughs I found, though, it seemed that a bad regulator would mean the handle (or in the case of power, a motor) would just turn and turn without "catching", so that's why i was hoping to get some insight into my particular problem. Also, still looking for a nice Chiltons-type diagram of what I should even be looking for once I pop that door panel off. (I have full confidence in getting the panel off/on, it doesn't seem hard at all) Edit: again, would it be helpful at all to pop off the passenger side panel as well --- can I see a difference there? My driver door had an issue with not closing thanks to a funky latch a few weeks ago, and just looking at the difference between the bad driver side and good passenger side, I was able to fix that poo poo with 5 minutes of "OH, that's what's wonky" and some elbow grease. JacquelineDempsey fucked around with this message at 06:37 on Oct 6, 2015 |
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Oct 6, 2015 06:31
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JacquelineDempsey posted:As did I! I kept seeing regulator in all these sites talking about powered windows and figured that didn't apply to my situation since I got good ol' hand cranks. A bad regulator will definitely cause a power window to move slowly and/or pop out of its track. With a hand cranked window, it'll make it very difficult, if not impossible, to roll up, and again, make it pop out of its track easily. some texas redneck posted:Secondary issue: I had to turn on the ignition to roll up the windows at one point while the seats were out (went inside to eat dinner, didn't want stereo disappearing). Now the airbag light is on. If anyone cares, disconnecting the battery for a few minutes got rid of the solid airbag light. Back to flashing for a few seconds at startup now, like normal.
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Oct 6, 2015 07:17
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JacquelineDempsey posted:
You'll probably only SEE a difference if something is actually physically broken (which I don't think it is, because it does KINDA work). It's more likely that something is just slightly out of alignment. I'd start with just the funky door, try and actuate the window while you're looking at its guts, and try to see/feel where it's binding. If that doesn't work, then try looking at the good one...I just don't think you'll need to, or that it'll help.
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Oct 6, 2015 15:14
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08 honda civic auto. Started making a whining noise that matches with RPM on the first cool day of the year. Crappy video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VusPDdiuqVw (louder IRL than in the vid) It goes away once the car warms up. Should I care about it at all?
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Oct 7, 2015 02:12
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Is there a thread in AI or another sub forum for 12vdc wiring questions?
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Oct 7, 2015 02:47
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GopherFlats posted:Is there a thread in AI or another sub forum for 12vdc wiring questions? I'm sure there's something up your alley in DIY/hobbies. fake edit, Learning Electronics MEGATHREAD
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Oct 7, 2015 03:10
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M42 posted:08 honda civic auto. Started making a whining noise that matches with RPM on the first cool day of the year. Crappy video: It is very hard to hear in that video. Does it occur when turning?
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Oct 7, 2015 03:26
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M42 posted:08 honda civic auto. Started making a whining noise that matches with RPM on the first cool day of the year. Crappy video: Sounds vaguely hydraulic, have you checked power steering fluid?
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Oct 7, 2015 03:37
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I've got a 98 Ford Explorer with 105,000 miles and a burst radiator/thermostat. I have a repair quote of $450 to replace the radiator, thermostat, and hoses. There's also the potential that there was other damage done when the radiator burst. Kelley Blue Book puts the trade-in value at $1,400-$1,638 in fair condition. That seems optimistic to me, particularly because it's probably not in fair condition: it has some body damage (dented in right rear panel, missing trim, and some mild damage to the front bumper), in an accident years ago (rolled on its side), and the transmission has been rough shifting for a while. I recently had the crank sensor and serpentine belt replaced. Is it at all worth putting more money into repairs? I don't drive much beyond outdoor trips, and I'm leery of having a car that's unreliable for that.
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Oct 7, 2015 06:22
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$450 is chump change compared to what it costs to replace that vehicle. That said, if you just want to spend the least amount of money and keep it limping along until a major failure occurs, that replacement should be drat easy and able to be done with a basic socket set. I know it was on my '98 Ranger, and you should be able to do it for well under $200 in parts and fluids.
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Oct 7, 2015 06:33
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Yeah, I've been cringing at how much even a used compact would run me. It seems like it'd be a waste of money for how little I drive. Any suggestions for preventative repairs?
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Oct 7, 2015 06:46
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(Speaking as a 98 Explorer 4.0 SOHC owner with 214k miles on it) Bad electrical connections can seriously break the Explorer, especially if a fault occurs when the center diff is switching between modes, as it uses an electric motor connected to the cheapest plastic arms ever created, bathed in a very hot nasty oil. Also, they are in a difficult to access spot. Ask me how I know  If you live in an area that gets winter salt, or is plain humid, it's worth your time and money to buy two cans of deoxit, a few feet of braided ground strap, and some 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch screw crimp connectors. Get underneath, and replace every ground strap that you find. Do not be surprised when they literally disintegrate (my video) when you go to move them. Some of them may also be just crimp connectors with no strap left between panels and frame pieces, so keep an eye out. After doing that, while you're under there, carefully unplug every connector, even the O2 sensor connectors, and spray them out with deoxit and reconnect them. On the interior side, if you have to replace a dash bulb, like the backlight bulbs, do the same thing with the big 40 pin or whatever it is dash connector, as well as whatever portions of the circuitboard are exposed during the bulb replacement. Removing the center console is also fairly easy, and there is a 12 or 18 pin connector somewhere in the middle of the console between the bottom of the radio/pocket area and the E-brake (depends on trim level) that usually has one side of the connector attached to a metal backing plate. This connector runs power for your radio, the map lights/compass/thermometer, your auto-dimming rearview mirror, and (strangely) is also tied into the cruise control system. Deoxit this one, too, and you will save yourself hours and hours of headaches down the road when random poo poo stops working or you get a CEL with weirdass codes. Again, ask me how I know. The rear windshield washer hose tends to crack both right at the nozzle behind the wiper arm, and inside the rear door where it crosses over into the vehicle. Check it out to make sure it's not leaking, as the water leaking down into the rear hatch or the passenger brake light area on the body side can cause so many problems. On the engine side of things, if you've got a spare three or four hours, and you have the 4.0 (either variant), I would recommend replacing both intake manifold gaskets. One is six individual O-rings, the other is three O-rings that have two ports each, like a weird figure-8. IIRC (I did this in January) I needed some larger Torx screws, like T-40 and T-45, as well as one E-torx (torx socket), but other than that it was really easy, in a "it's just a series of bolts in sequence, no one-time-use fasteners or any other bullshit" way. I also used that opportunity with the engine cover and poo poo off to lubricate the cruise control and throttle cables. Whether or not you're going to do the intake gaskets, I highly recommend (actually, I'm making this one required) doing the PCV valve mod. This replaces the bullshit Ford one with a standard $3 one from Autozone, as well as adds a few inches of hose to take it out of the bowels of the firewall. I did my PCV valve back when the truck had 160k miles after going through a stock PCV valve every 20k or so, and I did it without removing the upper intake, which meant I was flying blind and feeling around for poo poo. Haven't had to touch a PCV valve sense. If you just have 20 minutes to waste and want to do the most basic thing, go right now and check to be sure all of the intake clamps and boots are on tight. Carefully inspect how tightly the air temperature sensors are in the intake hose. The hose hardens and if you can spin them in their push-to-fit fittings, then you should pop them out and coat the outside of their bases with some RTV. IIRC on one of them there is enough of a flange that you can put a small hose clamp on it to ensure that there are no air leaks. The Explorers love to get hard (phrasing) intake rubber (phrasing) and leak a little bit everywhere, which kills drivability and idling stability if even a tiny bit leaks in.
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Oct 7, 2015 07:25
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Where is the best place to get a trailer hitch installed (class I for a bike rack)? I looked at U-Haul and the internet is telling me they mostly do a good job and their price is better than a dealership, but I wasn't sure if there was a better option (other than DIY which I am not interested in doing).
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Oct 7, 2015 16:47
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I need to do my rotors and this is my first car where they've been held on with brass screws. Of course one screw came out ok, and the head on the other instantly started to strip. I don't think any of my drill bits will work for drilling it out, so I need to either buy a manual impact driver, or the appropriate bits. The head isn't completely stripped, think there's a chance an impact driver will work? I may just buy both tools, as I'm sure they'll be useful to have in the future. What are the best bits for drilling out a screw? Unrelated - my brother has a GMC Arcadia and recently had to change the battery. He said he had to use a Torx bit to remove an interior panel on the passenger side to get access to the battery - WTF? Is this common now on newer cars?
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Oct 7, 2015 17:10
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MomJeans420 posted:I need to do my rotors and this is my first car where they've been held on with brass screws. Of course one screw came out ok, and the head on the other instantly started to strip. I don't think any of my drill bits will work for drilling it out, so I need to either buy a manual impact driver, or the appropriate bits. The head isn't completely stripped, think there's a chance an impact driver will work? I may just buy both tools, as I'm sure they'll be useful to have in the future. What are the best bits for drilling out a screw?
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Oct 7, 2015 17:18
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Mind_Taker posted:Where is the best place to get a trailer hitch installed (class I for a bike rack)? I looked at U-Haul and the internet is telling me they mostly do a good job and their price is better than a dealership, but I wasn't sure if there was a better option (other than DIY which I am not interested in doing). Do a quick internet search for "trailer hitch installation" in your area. There are places that specialize in only that. I went that route for the hitch in my Outback, and was quite pleased. MomJeans420 posted:I need to do my rotors and this is my first car where they've been held on with brass screws. Of course one screw came out ok, and the head on the other instantly started to strip. I don't think any of my drill bits will work for drilling it out, so I need to either buy a manual impact driver, or the appropriate bits. The head isn't completely stripped, think there's a chance an impact driver will work? I may just buy both tools, as I'm sure they'll be useful to have in the future. What are the best bits for drilling out a screw? Also, brass is a very soft metal. Just about any drill bit will be fine. But try hammering in a regular screwdriver first, then perhaps the impact. It's becoming increasingly common to put the battery on the interior or in the trunk in newer cars. Safety Dance fucked around with this message at 17:30 on Oct 7, 2015 |
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Oct 7, 2015 17:28
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